Obviously your cast bullets serendipitously fit your cylinder throats to a T - either right at throat diameter or slightly over. And I'd bet your swaged bullets are under throat diameter which is why you get some leading with them - that and the crummy dry lube they typically put on swaged bullets not being up to the task of 1000 fps.
One of the major "secrets" in cast bullet shooting in any kind of gun is to cork the hot gasses tightly behind the bullet before, during, and after its launch down the barrel. Therein lies the best chance for no leading. That and a good lube.
There's a lot of things I ned to learn about. Casting quality hardcast bullets isn't one of them.
By the way, unless you're casting bullets for specific expansion characteristics, adding tin or casting from Linotype is a waste of money. Expansion from any cast bullet is a very iffy proposition regardless of the bnh, anyway.
Quench casting old school straight wheelweight alloy will give you very good bullets if you get the temperature correct and learn to time cutting the sprue at the point where it will neither tear the base or leave a nub on it.
There's a rhythm to it that tales a while to learn but about halfway through the first 5 gallon of wheelweights it should be second nature.
Also, don't size quench cast wheel weight alloy bullets. Use a mold that casts about .001" oversize and lube them with a sizer die .001" oversize. RCBS molds are usually very concentric and cast at an appropriate size. Lyman's are also good but it's necessary to keep the alignment pins extended far enough to keep the mold halves concentric. Occasionally, you'll need to peck them out a few thousandths with a pin punch. Over time they will back into the hold and not line the mold halves together correctly.