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How does recoil and shootability compare between a .38 special snubnose revolver (S&W J frame, Ruger LCR) and a compact 9mm like the S&W Shield? I have shot a Shield but have never had the chance to shoot a compact revolver. I know it depends on ammo choices, so let's assume the revolver is loaded with a lower recoil option like wadcutters.
With normal pressure 38s in a steel J frame I find I shoot it better than a micro 9mm. Get into alloy framed guns and 357 loads and they get violent. Midrange wadcutters as factory loaded are extremely mild and produce little recoil, if the light is right there be been able to see them in flight on their way down range.
The recoil spring in the Shield will make its recoil feel softer, plus or minus gun weight.

+P’s in an Airweight j frame will make your hand feel more directly connected to the fun. Get one - the only way to know is to try it.
Since you're going with a very mild load in the 38, grips will make the biggest difference in perceived recoil. The old service panels that came on j frames forever make anything much stouter than light 38 loads uncomfortable for me to shoot. The trigger guard comes right back into my knuckle. Put the more modern boot style grips or even a Tyler style adapter on one and the same piece is super fun to shoot.
Shoot them both and use the one that feels and shoots best.
There are methods to mitigate recoil in snub guns. After firing thousands of rounds through J frames, I started modifying mine. I take a strip of material along the narrow backstrap that cushions the effect of recoil. It helps considerably. It also fits my XL hands much better.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


Plus I load mine with wadcutters. This is not just for recoil management but for the terminal performance, as JHPs in short barrels tend not to expand, and wadcutters have an excellent reputation for deep and consistent penetration, in spite of their relatively sedate velocity.

The small autos like the shield are easier to shoot quickly (in my opinion) but there are situations where I still prefer a snubby revolver. They are a quite practical tool. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, and one needs to weigh them accordingly and see what works for them.
My wife's Lady Smith 38 is pleasant to shoot with std wadcutters or light loads of a 125 gr HP/W231. Step up to +P and not so much.Grips are Crimsom Trace Laser
I do roughly the same thing but add a strip of rubberized Talon material down the backstrap. It also makes the revolver easy to get out of a pocket if two fingers is all you can get on it.

Buddy of mine has a ruger lcr in 357. We shot an old box of Remington 125gr hollow points. Holy moly I'd rather shoot a snubby 44 mag, that little polymer gun was MEAN!
And those old green and yellow box remington 125's were a lot hotter than I expected.
I shot some short barrel HST (+P 130gr or 135gr) out of J alloy-framed revolver with rubber S&W combat grip (about half inch longer than a boot grip). The recoil was not bothersome at all. The recoil of my 9mm micro pistol is pretty bad. I thought felt similar to LCP .380, but it is worse because my hand felt sore for longer period of time, therefore, the recoil was obviously worse.
I carry jframes a lot and recoil or not shots on target speed and accuracy I can do better with the shield. There is more to hold onto with my support hand. Dat said 158 LRN @ 650 FPS is alls I need grin
Originally Posted by smallfry
I carry jframes a lot and recoil or not shots on target speed and accuracy I can do better with the shield. There is more to hold onto with my support hand. Dat said 158 LRN @ 650 FPS is alls I need grin


No need to use .38 S&W ballistics in .38 Special. You can upgrade to Federal HST Micro .38 w/o problems.
Originally Posted by Slavek
Originally Posted by smallfry
I carry jframes a lot and recoil or not shots on target speed and accuracy I can do better with the shield. There is more to hold onto with my support hand. Dat said 158 LRN @ 650 FPS is alls I need grin


No need to use .38 S&W ballistics in .38 Special. You can upgrade to Federal HST Micro .38 w/o problems.

Your internet googling is outstanding!
Originally Posted by UPhiker
Originally Posted by Slavek
Originally Posted by smallfry
I carry jframes a lot and recoil or not shots on target speed and accuracy I can do better with the shield. There is more to hold onto with my support hand. Dat said 158 LRN @ 650 FPS is alls I need grin


No need to use .38 S&W ballistics in .38 Special. You can upgrade to Federal HST Micro .38 w/o problems.

Your internet googling is outstanding!


I doubt he even owns a B.B. gun.
I’m still waiting to see pics of his 38 magnum, or anything he posts about really
Originally Posted by TheKid
I’m still waiting to see pics of his 38 magnum, or anything he posts about really


LOL !
Unless you need to carry in a pocket, a 3” revolver is much easier to hit with than a 2”, and the extra weight out front makes them more comfortable to shoot as well. In either case, a set of rubbery laser grips is a great addition. Steel-framed ones like my M60 are better yet when it comes to shooting, but at a weight and concealability penalty.

Since you’ve fired a Shield, go to a range that does rentals and try out a snubbie too. Better to try before you buy. Might turn out that the compact auto is your huckleberry after all.
Smallest 9 I’ve shot is the Ruger LC 9. Gun in hand I believe I can certainly shoot better and faster with the Ruger, plus it’s either 8 (7+1) or 10 (9 + 1) rounds on tap dependent on the magazine.

However, drawn hastily from a pocket holster my j-frame Airweight with its Uncle Mike’s Combat grip comes quickly surely and consistently to hand. Due to the long heavy trigger pull j frames are harder to shoot accurately, but at the close range a situation would most likely occur that prob’ly won’t matter so much.

‘Nother factor is pocket carry, even though it’s in a pocketholster, it’s not out of the question I could absentmindedly put my keys or pen or glasses in that same pocket, neither would it be impossible for said keys whatever to find leverage against the trigger.

Of course if your pocket nine has a safety that would prevent an AD, if it had a safety and if it was engaged. On an Airweight that long heavy trigger pull is already AD resistant in a pocket without the necessity of a safety.

JMHO
I will pocket carry a model 60 in 357 or a Glock 27 most often .
I’d have to put them on a scale to truly differentiate the weight between them
Mostly run 155s @ 1150 through the 27 , and you’ll feel that .. but it’s not really painful .
357 loads that match that in the j frame seem to sting me more .

I flat out love revolvers and that’s all I would use for a very long time but for whatever reason my results downrange have always favored a Glock ever since the first one I picked up .
I’m aware that’s probably not the norm
Can't comment on 9mm micro or compact semi-autos. Never shot one.

I do have a stainless J-frame S&W 649-2 snubnose (shrouded hammer "humpback" Bodyguard) 5-shot 38 special. I load it with full-charge hard-cast solid base wadcutters (not hbwc). The load is 3.5 grains Bullseye and 148 grain wadcutters (Lee 148 grain tumble lube, or H&G model 50 flat base/solid base made with straight wheel weight alloy).

Full-charge 38 special wadcutter load:
https://www.grantcunningham.com/2011/11/ed-harris-revisiting-the-full-charge-wadcutter/

Recoil is comfortable with my S&W 649-2. I do have a set of Uncle Mike's rubber "boot grips" on the revolver which greatly contributes to very comfortable, and controllable shooting.

I use this load in my S&W 3" full lug barreled model 60-4 38 special . It too is both very accurate and comfortable to shoot. It has factory rubber grips. Strongly recommend this grip style.
Originally Posted by buttstock

I use this load in my S&W 3" full lug barreled model 60-4 38 special . It too is both very accurate and comfortable to shoot. It has factory rubber grips. Strongly recommend this grip style.


The factory rubber grips on the 3” Model 60 are the same Uncle Mike’s Combat grip I mentioned. IIRC S&W puts them on all their .357 j frames.

I like them so much I put them on my .38 Airweight too. My hands aren’t particularly large but this fatter longer grip is easier to grab in a pocket and indexes more securely in my hand when grabbed in haste than even the shorter boot grip mentioned here (which does leave your pinky hanging in space).

With regards to the OP’s question, recoil isn’t an issue with those combat grips in a 16oz (??) Airweight when using .38 or .38 plusP ammo.

.357 ammo a different story, I too have a stainless 3” Model 60 j frame. Even in that 25oz gun muzzle blast and recoil with .357 loads could be stout. For home defense duty I used to load it with .38 plusP’s, about as effective out of a short barrel
with far less muzzle blast.

I have never fired a scandium or titanium Airlite j frame, I thought it was crazy they actually came in .357 Magnum. I imagine even .38’s in those 10oz guns could be a handful. IIRC they do come with the larger Combat Grip.

I didn't know there was such a thing as a scandium frame J-frame until I fingered a M340 at a gun show. I didn't need to do much reading on the Internet to realize that a .357 Magnum in this light a revolver was way too much of a good thing. I didn't even like that cartridge out of my 4" M66. I had a 22 ounce early stainless M60 .38 Special only, but thought that was even heavy for a pocket piece. S&W did make a scandium frame .38 Special only version for four years about 20 years back called the M337PD and I bought a nice one out of Georgia a few years back. At 12 ounces loaded with Special +P it is all that I want to hang on to, but it sure does fit nicely in a pocket. I would put longer rubber grips on it if I shot it more often, but at the cost of better concealability.
Originally Posted by Windfall
I would put longer rubber grips on it if I shot it more often, but at the cost of better concealability.


With respect to the Uncle Mike’s Combat grip, they are longer and fatter than the various boot grips, but I find this longer grip takes up more room in the pocket, meaning the gun and holster don’t have as much free play to move around.

What this translates to is when you do hastily reach in to grab it, the grip is right at hand where it usually is. With the smaller boot grip, depending upon the pants I’m wearing, not only is the grip less secure but the position of the gun in my hand varies also.

Other’s MMV
The OPs question got me curious.

Loaded up some Zero brand 130gr FMJFP over 5.0gr of WST in .357 Mag cases. Guessing these run between 800 and 850 in the 1 7/8" S&W M360 (7.0gr of BE85 under 125gr Gold Dot clock 910 fps and felt just a touch sharper recoil wise). Loads were comfortable in both guns.

Shot two cylinders full from the 1 7/8" Ruger LCR and the S&W M360 Ti/Sc at 8 to 10 yds as fast as I could holding center mass on a full size popper. Had no trouble keeping all rounds on the popper and it seemed to me that the M360 was a touch faster.

Don't have a Shield, but do have a Kahr CW9 which is pretty comparable in size and weight. Unfortunately the lightest load I had was the Win +P+ 127gr HP (these chrono right at 1,200 fps from the CW9). This is a significant increase in power vs the above "38" loads and It showed, as I was noticibly slower with follow up shots and actually missed the popper once.

Certainly not scientific and most likely only applies to me.

Here are the guns:

[Linked Image from photos.imageevent.com]
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[Linked Image from photos.imageevent.com]
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FWIW,

Paul
Originally Posted by paul105
The OPs question got me curious.

Loaded up some Zero brand 130gr FMJFP over 5.0gr of WST in .357 Mag cases. Guessing these run between 800 and 850 in the 1 7/8" S&W M360 (7.0gr of BE85 under 125gr Gold Dot clock 910 fps and felt just a touch sharper recoil wise). Loads were comfortable in both guns.

Shot two cylinders full from the 1 7/8" Ruger LCR and the S&W M360 Ti/Sc at 8 to 10 yds as fast as I could holding center mass on a full size popper. Had no trouble keeping all rounds on the popper and it seemed to me that the M360 was a touch faster.

Don't have a Shield, but do have a Kahr CW9 which is pretty comparable in size and weight. Unfortunately the lightest load I had was the Win +P+ 127gr HP (these chrono right at 1,200 fps from the CW9). This is a significant increase in power vs the above "38" loads and It showed, as I was noticibly slower with follow up shots and actually missed the popper once.

Certainly not scientific and most likely only applies to me.

Here are the guns:

[Linked Image from photos.imageevent.com]
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[Linked Image from photos.imageevent.com]
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FWIW,

Paul


You can bring .38 Special to 9x19 level by using Underwood 125gr +P loads with bonded JHPs at 1250fps. That velocity is probably from service length (usually 4" barrel), but you will still get good performance out of something like S&W Magnum J frame with 2" barrel. Selway Armory in Beautiful Missoula Montana is good source for this ammunition. Unlike most places in USA they usually have some .38 JHPs in stock.
It's interesting that we have this thread in the Handgun forum about taming recoil in a lightweight J frame, yet, up in the Campfire forum, many people are saying it's a perfect gun for new female shooters.
Originally Posted by UPhiker
It's interesting that we have this thread in the Handgun forum about taming recoil in a lightweight J frame, yet, up in the Campfire forum, many people are saying it's a perfect gun for new female shooters.


Because they are simple to use are reliable with appropriate ammunition and do not produce famous "Glock legs". One can not simply drop Glock into a purse and go about their day, because a bang can result. One can install some king of NY-type trigger, but who wants to invest extra money, time and effort into a tool like a Glock? One can buy lighter recoiling .38 Special ammo like target wadcutter, cowboy action loads or certain JHP ammo from Hornady.
It's really about hand fit. You can change grips and really mess around with the way a J-frame fits your hand; eventually you'll find a grip that points well and puts your trigger finger in the right spot.

Also, with snubbies, you can find low recoil cowboy loads to practice with that don't beat you up, then load the +P stuff to carry with. It sort of takes a little experimentation to figure out that stuff for each gun.

In the end, as long as a snubby has smooth wood grips, I've found I can conceal it much more easily than any of the autos. With the autos you either need to carry them with a clear chamber or you need a holster. With a j-frame I just use one of those pocket clips that mounts to the frame. It can be carried in gym shorts or under a t-shirt, won't show at all.
Fit is really important, as stated above. I shot an airweight J-frame with boot grips versus one with a much larger Hogue grip that nearly filled my hand - it was night and day.
A wheel gun has a simplicity off operation for folks who have no interest in knowing much about guns.
Load a revolver and shoot.
Load an auto, twice:
Load the the CLIP into the gun, then
Load a bullet into the chamber
Originally Posted by 5thShock
A wheel gun has a simplicity off operation for folks who have no interest in knowing much about guns.
Load a revolver and shoot.
Load an auto, twice:
Load the the CLIP into the gun, then
Load a bullet into the chamber


Clip?

...you mean magazine?
Originally Posted by Slavek
Originally Posted by UPhiker
It's interesting that we have this thread in the Handgun forum about taming recoil in a lightweight J frame, yet, up in the Campfire forum, many people are saying it's a perfect gun for new female shooters.


Because they are simple to use are reliable with appropriate ammunition and do not produce famous "Glock legs". One can not simply drop Glock into a purse and go about their day, because a bang can result. One can install some king of NY-type trigger, but who wants to invest extra money, time and effort into a tool like a Glock? One can buy lighter recoiling .38 Special ammo like target wadcutter, cowboy action loads or certain JHP ammo from Hornady.



There is the MIC holster for Glocks and some other versions.
I have no idea about the recoil in Airweight S&W's or Ruger LCR's but I have fired medium velocity Remington 357 Magnum Golden Saber loads form a 2" Colt Magnum Carry and a 3" Ruger SP101 and they are very controllable. The factory rubber grips on both revolvers cushion the hand nicely. The recoil is about the same as 9mm 124gr +P loads in my Beretta Nano. I imagine that a steel frame S&W model 60 with factory rubber grips would do just as well.
We had a 2" SP-101 here for a long time Once you clean up the sharp edges on the trigger, trigger guard and plastic grip inserts they are comfortable to shoot with any 357 load. My wife figured this out and would burn up my Federal 125 JHP mags if I didn't watch her. I shot everything up to 200 grain bear loads from that little gun. At one time you could get a MeproLight front sight, which I added to that one. Mine, a very early specimen, shot like a good 4" service revolver.

Several years later I read of QC problems with the SP-101, so it would pay to look one over hard before accepting it. Ruger can screw the pooch with the best of them but, generally, stands behind their product.
Originally Posted by Gibby
Originally Posted by 5thShock
A wheel gun has a simplicity off operation for folks who have no interest in knowing much about guns.
Load a revolver and shoot.
Load an auto, twice:
Load the the CLIP into the gun, then
Load a bullet into the chamber


Clip?

...you mean magazine?


Well, sorta, but mostly just wondered if it would get the bullfrogs gruntin'.
Try the Taurus poly protector. I was skeptical when I bought it, but it has held up fine. I keep 125 gr. hollow points in it. $100.00 less than s&w in a similar model.
An Airweight 38 aluminum frame firing Buffalo Bore 158 +P made my hand feel sick. 357 magnum out of an all steel Rossi snubnose was a big joyous blast and a good, healthy kick.
Recoil is highly subjective.

I've never shot a 9mm, even the small polymer Kahr guns, that were as painful and violent as a S&W Airweight with small grips.
Unless I put giant rubber grips on the 15 ounce guns, I can't stand them.
That's why, after trying to carry and shoot Airweights for years, I finally sold my last one and got rid of my ammo.

Steel .38 revolvers are much more pleasant to shoot, but no fun carry.

That said, it's all in what you train with and get used to.
I sold my last 638 Airweight with a Scandium cylinder to a guy who told me he immediately took it to the range and put 500 rounds through it.
I wouldn't have been able to feel my hand for a week! shocked
I carry a 2" LCR 357 almost daily. A couple of extra ounces over the 38 version. I keep it loaded with warm 38 loads and 158gr SWC.

The wife's J frame is loaded with midrange wadcutters.

As already stated, adding weight or lightening loads are the best way to mitigate recoil
Getting grips on a j frame, that work for you, makes a world of difference. I wanted a grip that was small enough to pocket, but big enough to shoot well quick, with 38 loads doing an honest 850 from a 1 7/8" barrel.

The first set I ordered was the Hogue Bantam and they beat my old favorite--Michaels Boot Grip--by a substantial margin. They also make the little gun easier to fish out of your pocket. YMMV of course, but I'm done looking for j frame grips.
Originally Posted by Mackay_Sagebrush
There are methods to mitigate recoil in snub guns. After firing thousands of rounds through J frames, I started modifying mine. I take a strip of material along the narrow backstrap that cushions the effect of recoil. It helps considerably. It also fits my XL hands much better.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


Plus I load mine with wadcutters. This is not just for recoil management but for the terminal performance, as JHPs in short barrels tend not to expand, and wadcutters have an excellent reputation for deep and consistent penetration, in spite of their relatively sedate velocity.

The small autos like the shield are easier to shoot quickly (in my opinion) but there are situations where I still prefer a snubby revolver. They are a quite practical tool. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, and one needs to weigh them accordingly and see what works for them.



One of the things I like about the LCR's is the grip. They basically do what Mackay has done. They designed the grip well.

I pocket carry a .357 LCR often. I never shoot .357's in it but I wanted the little extra weight (17.1 oz vs 13.5) over the 38 version to make it a little easier to shoot (and the option for snake loads I have in 357 brass). It's not a range gun but it's not terrible to shoot with hot 38's either. Both the grips and the touch of extra weight help there.
I always "choked up" on my 340 and 642. The web between my thumb and index finger was up at the top of the rear strap. It cut down on the "snap" quite a bit.
I was asked this question again and instead of re-writing the same thing again, I figured I would bump up this thread.

The standard pressure wadcutters are a lower recoil option. The penetrate deep and straight and are not required to open up to work. Brick simple and very effective. Super popular with knowledgeable handgunners, old school cops, etc. It is what I generally recommend for people to use in the snub nose guns.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Originally Posted by UPhiker
It's interesting that we have this thread in the Handgun forum about taming recoil in a lightweight J frame, yet, up in the Campfire forum, many people are saying it's a perfect gun for new female shooters.

Yeah well, in a steel frame yes they are good for females. I have a 640 .357 and it is nice to shoot with 38+P ammo. Very accurate and recoil is not bad. Spouse used it for CCL shooting test and did quite well. The grips fit my hands very nicely though so that is a plus as far as managing recoil. Mine has a square butt frame for the grip.
MackaySagebrush and JCMCubic are both tried and true snubby guys. I trust their word and carry Mackay’s recommended load in my 442. Zero trouble training and being accurate. Recoil is manageable.
I had a similar experience when I first started shooting snubbies. I simply wasn't used to the experience of shooting a lightweight revolver. My advice to anyone shooting a lighweight revolver is to shoot wadcutters and keep the round counts low as you ease into it. Your hand will adjust and you'll get used to it. It's worth the effort - they're a lot of fun to shoot.
I used to like to tinker… yeah I’d be taking some drill bits to those wad cutter's.
I had an SP 101 in .357 magnum for a number of years before my brother decided he needed it more than I did. I put Hogues on it early in the relationship and it became painless to shoot, but never really controllable with full-house .357’s. I now EDC an Sig 365 and, for me, it’s almost like shooting a full size 9mm. Yes, there’s more recoil, but it’s not the least bit painful and very, very controllable. It shoots like a bigger gun. I surprised myself recently with how fast I could run a rack of plates with it, much better than I ever could with the SP 101.

There’s a woman who shoots IDPA with us. Her husband mentioned last week that the first time she picked up a gun was a year ago. I’ve watched her for several months now and she’s made very quick and noticeable progress with her 365.
I have a beretta Nano and a Colt Magnum Carry. The Nano is loaded with Speer 124gr+P Gold Dots and the Magnum Carry is loaded with Remington 125gr Golden Sabres, in my opinion both recoil at about the same level.
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