Been thinking about going to a heavier recoil spring for at least one of my 1911's if I start feeding it some pretty warm loads, say 200 gr. bullets at 950-1000 fps.
What have been your experiences with doing this ? What do you recommend ? E

Your 1911 should pitch the cases anywhere between 6-10 feet away. Any shorter and your spring is perhaps a little too stiff, any longer and it's probably not stiff enough. With most standard loads, this is generally somewhere between 16.5-20lbs on a standard government model, and 18.5-22lbs on a Commander. For standard 230 grain loads, I like 18.5 on my government and 20 on my commander; but that's just me.

I run an 18lb on all three of my gov.models and have no function problems on mid to fairly hot loads.

Try a 17.5 or 18.5 lb variable power spring from Wolff - it's my everyday spring and works pretty well with a variety of full power loads. I used to shoot a H&G 68 SWC at about 950 or so as a "bowling pin" load back in the day and that spring seemed to work fine for that as well.

Thanks guys. I kind of had the idea in mind that 6-10 ft. could be reduced to 3 feet or less as well. But probably not a good idea for reliable functioning. E

I try to use as light a spring as possible to minimize battering the pistol going into battery, but like Kevin said, the key is watching the ejected brass.

I almost always use shock buffers and I always have an assortment of springs in my range bag if I need to change one out. If I need a spring that's a couple pounds more than factory I usually change out the firing pin stop first.

I run 20# springs in my commander and full size 1911s. They cycle fine even with lighter loads.
I also run a buffer in one of my guns. My fullsize doesnt like em though. In my opinion, anything I can do to minimize the beating my guns take without harming function or reliability, im gonna try it.

Mostly I would suggest a recoil buffer, but be sure and test it first in your gun..They have worked well in my defense guns, mostly Commanders, and you may need to tinker with the spring or whatever, In other words tweek it but always test an auto and test it a bunch. I have seen too many of "my gun never jams" go bad and if they do I can about guarentee it will be at the most inopertune time of your life.

IMO a variable power spring will work with more loads than a "fixed rating" one, but I prefer a fixed rating, as it�s "stiffer" at the beginning of the cycle, where it delays unlocking, protecting the gun and giving, theoretically at least, more accuracy.

Just MO, Hermann

Flinch,

20-lbs is a lot of spring for a government model. Heavy springs work both ways - recoil and return. Every time that slide returns to battery the slide and frame take an extra whack.

Been using 18 lb springs an my 1911 guns since day one, just works for me.

+1.. If the lock up is correct and the lockup stays locked to the end of the pivot link, then their is absoluetly no reason to use a heavier spring.

I hear you JOG, it doesnt seem to be a problem though, I dont let the slide go unless it has a round to go with it. So far this theory is workin for me. (knock on wood)

You feel that the round is a buffer, that some how protects from the added slap?

I think when the slide takes a round from the magazine it slows the slide a bit more than if you were to slingshot it empty.

You're right, but everything is relative - the slide still hits the frame harder, and wears the sear and extractor more with a heavier spring. Yep, it might be a tiny amount of extra wear, but over many thousands of rounds it can make a big difference.

The $15 solution is an EGW (or similar) firing pin stop. As you know the bottom of the firing pin stop is the bearing surface that cocks the hammer. The original JMB design called for a radius edge on the stop. The radius doesn't provide any leverage for the slide. Carrying chamber-empty was common back then so the army requested a beveled firing pin stop to make the 1911 easier to hand cycle. Changing back to the radius firing pin stop will take more energy from the recoil spring and slow the recoil cycle without speeding up the slide returning to battery.

The EGW firing pin stop comes with a straight edge (no radius) so you or a 'smith will have to file/stone the radius. It's an easy tweak and only $15 if you nuke the part. BTDT

+1

I like to use as light a spring as possible & also use shok-buffs.

16.5 lb is the stock spring for a 1911 & I almost never use anything over 17.5 but I do use variable rate springs even with +P ammo.

IMO, heavier springs than 18 lb are simply not necessary & lead to more problems than they solve if the gun is set up right.

MM

I've never given variables a long term chance. Why the preference?

Come to think of it, I've never used a variable weight spring with an EGW FPS. I'll have to leave myself a note to try that. Not a huge thing, but maybe that would offset some of the hand cycling issue.

I think they perform a little better over a wider range of ammo (recoil level).




"Hand cycling" ? When......as in racking the slide to chamber a round when the slide is closed? or clearing a jam?

If so, yes, they are marginally different in feel from a non-variable spring but way better than racking a slide with a 20 lb spring, if that's what you are referring to.

That's another reason I don't like really heavy springs.......most guys simply cannot easily rack a heavy spring as it should be done.......& Commander lengths are even worse, IMO.

Never had/seen the need for an EGW or other more squared type if FPS either.

MM

The gun was designed for a 16.5 lb spring with a slightly radiused firing pin stop while shooting 230 grain hardball. Shock buffs were a solution to the extra battering after the beveled fps. Heavier springs are not necessary and can cause more problems than they cure.

I too dont like too much spring, i think all of mine currently have 17# springs and shokbuffs

Well said!