I watched this video and how do you know when to stop cutting?


https://youtu.be/WtIBv6VIQGE

The instructions on mine say to stop when you cut 1/8"-1/4" or so into the rifling.


Cut slow and check often and you'll see the rifling starting to get shiny. I've cut several 357's, 44's and 45LC's and I've always stopped 1/8" or so after the lands are shiny

Is there anything cheaper besides the kit Brownells sells? Only need it for 45 Rugers...

Not that I found. I got the Brownells basic kit that covered 38's - 45's. It was around $80

Oh, ok, the kit i saw was $265 but covered several different calibers.

I saw that one too, it has all the bells and whistles.


The one I got: Basic Kit

Thanks man i appreciate it. Have you ever opened cylinder throats on a Ruger 45? Got a Blackhawk 45 colt on the way and i'm positive the throats will need some attention. I know several professionals who provide this service but would like to try it myself. What you think?

Well, I did the throats on a 44 I had because they were .427". It probably seems crazy but I followed this article: http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tech_notes/archive_tech_notes.htm/59


I used a drill, a dowel and some emery cloth. Again, going slow, and it turned out perfect. My accuracy went up and leading went completely away.

Veral Smith recommended this method and I used it successfully to open throats on several Ruger SA's, mostly .45's but at least one .357 and one of their newly introduced .44 Specials as well. Always figured it would make a gunsmith cringe but if you go slowly and carefully as noted in the article it works just fine. When the guy at cylindersmith.com offered his services I figured for $45 and quick turnaround it was worth having the throats opened in a more conventional manner but I never ruined any of the ones I did and accuracy always improved.

The other technique in conjunction with opening throats is firelapping the frame constriction out of Ruger SA barrels but that's another story.

I believe 2 Dogs over on Lee Martin's forum is doing throat work.

A friend and I did the throats on our .45 Colt Redhawks. It's a pretty straight-forward process. We removed the cylinders, placed them in a padded vise, and turned the cutter smoothly with liberal amounts of cutting oil to lube the metal and flush the chips. Don't force the cutter, let it do the work and it'll come out smoother. One of the things we did do was cut off a piece of .45-70 brass and used it as a chamber sleeve to keep the cutter square.

I would be more concerned about throats before worrying about the forcing cone. Do the throats first and then shoot the gun before worrying about the cone. Buy pin gauges (you can buy just the range that you need) and measure the throats before you purchase anything else. Having all the throats even is as important as having them sized "correctly". Cast bullets can be purchased in a variety sizes and moderate hardness if you don't cast your own.