I just traded for a Kimber TLE in 10mm, it came in a multi trade and I couldn't turn the deal down. I had what he wanted more than he had what I wanted. The gun is BNIB with 4 mags, I really don't care to add another caliber to the arsenal, but I thought maybe I'd keep it and just run 40's in it. I did a little search on the subject, common theme is head spacing on the extractor, and carboning up the barrel where 10mm will stick (not an issue with good cleaning). Anybody done it a bunch and have good advice. I trust this bunch more than Youtube Bandits.
I have done it to figure out what was what, but don't recommend it and won't do it myself any more in a 1911. It's safe in a Glock, but is not safe in a 1911. That's nothing to do with strength of the gun, it's because of firing pin/striker protrusion. In a 1911, a 40 S&W round will occasionally jump in front of the extractor during feeding, and the 10mm chamber is deep enough that a 40 case will stay in front of the extractor. A standard 1911 firing pin will reach the primer in that condition though, which causes the case to slam back against the breech face, resulting in what you see in the pic below.
Note the missing piece of rim where it was sheared off by the extractor. Cases that do this generally bulge a bit, and it's possible for them to blow out. Also note that this is a perfect example of case damage that looks like high pressure but was actually caused by excess headspace; same thing happens in rifles.
In a Glock, in contrast, the striker protrusion is short enough that a case in front of the extractor simply won't fire. It either works correctly, or not at all.
Look at the firing pin protrusion relative to the extractor position.