I had a thumbhole target 10-22 set up with a Jard trigger, Volquartsen barrel. I wasn't using it; it had been sitting in the safe for over 10 years. I wasn't too enthralled with the Jard. It had a lot of take up, although pretty smooth. Well, I took it apart and started adjusting it. It's well made, very simple with few parts. You can adjust sear engagment as well as disconnector engagement. I got it to a really nice 2# pull with just a touch of take up. Didn't want to minimize sear engagement too much.

With the Jard, you can't engage the safety and cock the hammer, the trigger must move to engage the sear, unlike the Ruger. It has very few moving parts, unlike the Ruger. The sear and trigger are one piece, not a series of parts. That makes for a great trigger pull, just with some quirks. You cycle the bolt, cocking the hammer, apply the safety, ensert the clip, chamber a round and you're in business. I like the larger trigger guard and rear safety.

I replaced the heavy target stock with a Hoque rubber coated stock from Brownells. I'd seen them, never worked with one. For the price, they're pretty impressive. The Hogue was inletted for the Ruger OEM fire control unit, not the Jard. The Dremel fixed that in short order.

I already had this VX-2 3-9x40 CDS, so I mounted it with med Weavers. I like it.

I'm gonna get these folks (http://customturretsystems.com/my-labels/builder/) to make a ballistic tape for my current favorite hunting ctg, the Federal Game Shok, 38 gr. HP. B.C. is .131, MV is 1260 fps, 50 yds/1110 fps, 100 yds/1010 fps. With a 50 yd. zero, it's down 5.5" at a hundred, 19.5" at 150 yds. Now who would want to shoot a .22LR at 150 yds. Me, maybe on a still day, just for the heck of it. Maybe 200 yds., depending on max reading at one full revolution of the CDS. The tape is a lot cheaper than a dedicated turret.

Even though the VX-2 has a std. 100 yd. parallax setting, unlike rimfire scopes with a 50 yd. setting, I think it'll be OK. I could send it back for parallax reset, but don't think that's going to be necessary.

DF





Volquartsen brake.

Man, I like that. Hogue stocks don't get a lot of love here, but I like them. I have one on a 10/22 magnum and another on a Howa. I also like the way the bell of that scope looks sitting right on top of the barrel.

Yep, that scope objective barely has enough room for the Butler Creek lens covers. I may have to sand the bottom of the Butler Creek to clear the barrel, I've done that before.

For sure, Hogue isn't super cool, but for the cost, pretty decent handle.

I was wondering what it weighed all up, put it on the scales: 7# 9 oz, which isn't bad. It feel solid, holds steady. My newly tweaked Jard is very nice. I'm wondering why I didn't take time back in the day, to adjust it. Those triggers have gotten expensive since I bought mine, around 2 bills from what I'm seeing. I sure didn't pay that. Someone wrote that the newer Jards were made cheap. I don't know. This one is around 10 yrs. old, is well designed and nicely crafted.

I had shot this gun in the other stock, the Volquartsen barrel is very accurate. I put Volquartsen in the top tier of aftermarket 10-22 barrels.

DF

Nice piece. Nice to see something different. Here's mine with a Clark barrel, Volquartsen trigger, Midway/Fajen stock with Ahlman's checkering and basic Nikon 4X. Crazy accurate with Aguila Pistol Match ammunition. I have a Weaver 2-7X I intend to swap on to it.

That is very nice. I like it.

DF

Also like Hogue stocks. This one's aTony Kidd 10/22 barreled action dropped into a Hogue Overmolded I've posted pics of before here. Bedded action, floated, barrel, Kidd 2-stage trigger.

Nice.

How do you like the scope?

DF

Truthfully DF, I wish I liked it more. Good FOV, decent clarity for the money. Struggle with the eye box. Even with that, the gun shoots dime size holes or less consistently. Only paid $114 for the scope. Heck, QR Leupold rings were half that. Might work just fine for somebody younger with better vision.

Well it looks nice.

Those 10-22's with good aftermarket barrels usually shoot very well.

Ed mentioned a Clark barrel. They are very good.

IIRC, Clark uses Walther barrels. I have one with a suppressor that's a hoot to shoot and very accurate. It's the one I mentioned with a Ruger fire control assembly I built with Clark and Volquartsen parts. Until I recently tweaked the Jard, this was my best 10-22 trigger. Now, it's gonna be close.

DF

Nice rifles guys. I was at a shoot the other day and got to watch a guy cuss at his Volquartsen custom rifle. It was funny, he was pissed because it would not eject a live round. Had to "fire to clear" every time.... He said his GM barrel was the same way, but replaced the extractor spring and cured it. He said he thought that would fix the Volquartsen too, but no go... DF, have you had any problems like this with your Volquartsen barrel???

I just refinished the stock on my '67 standard.
Off to the range to see how it shoots..........Mother's Day.................hopefully the range is empty.

Sold my Fingergroove. That one shot pretty darn good, best of the half dozen or so 10/22s I've had.

If the standard doesn't shoot for chit, will get a GM bbl and Victor stock.
If it shoots halfway decent it's a rig for the kids to use.

I like that stock very much. Don't think anything available now looks as good as that.
Some just have the comb/cheekpiece at an odd step.

That stock is perfect!

Another somewhat unique 10-22.

Many moons ago, I ran across a guy walking the isles at a local gun show, packing this 10-22. I gave him a C note.

I added a Clark (Walther) barrel, had it cut and threaded for a can, rebuilt the fire control unit with Volquartsen and Clark parts, added a trigger stop, glassed it, refinished the stock, recut the checkering. Notice how I set the Redfield base back to accommodate the short ER of the Compact series 3-9 EFR

I've considered it my best trigger job until I tackled the Jard mentioned in the OP. Those two are now pretty close.

It's really quiet, you hear the bolt cycle and the bullet strike. That's about all.

DF

LOL...............Jeep died halfway to range. Idler took out belt, which wiped out PS pulley and overheated (cracking T flush fitting).
Called pops, he got me, went and got some little pipe at Rural King (and coolant).
Went back and joined the hoses, filled it up and ran it home (no PS or waterpump).
Never got close to overheating..........was into the wind and almost non stop.

$110 (coolant, pulley and pump) and it's back on the road. Finished by flashlight in corner of my mouth.
Had spare idler and belt from my old dead Jeep.

Royally honked me off, only day off..................wasted.

Pops said he's dumping his 1100 Trap. Said for me to get it. Told him I'd buy it. He got mad. I'll fetch it and sell my reg 1100 and toss in the diff.
Only plus for the day.

Very classy looking setup!

No problem. I may not have tried every possible ammo, but with what I've used, not an issue.

The only such problem I ever had was with a 40X sporter, a rather rare gun with clip, not the more common single shot. That gun must have had a very tight match chamber, would stick about any ammo I tried. It was almost as accurate as my Cooper, ultimately went down the road, currently worth nearly twice my trading value back then. I don't look back. If I don't like one, it travels. Still have the Cooper.

DF

Really cool 10-22 sporter that came to me the way you see it.
Green Mountain barrel, Jard trigger group and an aftermarket stock meant for an adult, manufacturer unknown.
I added a surprisingly good Bass Pro 4-12 AO and I was off to the races.

It shoots CCI subsonic like they were match ammo. At least at 25 yards, and cycles them without a hitch.
I don't know what else it likes - that's the only ammo I've ever run through it.

Picked it up used at my local store when a man came in who was getting out of some nice guns to buy a house, which I think we can all understand.
This rifle has changed my mind about 10-22's, and I consider myself lucky to have been in the right place at the right time.



Now to try some real target ammo in it... And maybe upgrade to a Kidd 2 stage someday

That stock looks to be of Fajen flavor to me. Or maybe it was just inspired by them.
Nice looking rig.

Kragman..
I know who made the stock on your gun.
About 10 years ago there was aan OEM STOCK manufacturer in Misouri called SK manufacturing that had large contracts to make stocks for Remington and a few other large mfgs for many years. Turns out they had been building Remingtons 700,541 and 870 walnut stocks for many years.
Anyway..They were eventually bought out by Remingron , but before they were the made a few runs of 10/22 sporter stocks like yours with the funky light colored gripcap ans forend tips(which I believe is Babinga)
The lineage of your stock relating to Remingtons tooling is look how close your stocks checkering pattern is to the Rem 541T checkering patterns..nearly identical.



Whoever put your rifle together knew what they were doing..Nice choice of parts..

Good info. It does look like Rem checkering.

Kragman, tweak that Jard before you swap it out. It's not that hard to do and the results can be very rewarding.

DF

That's a little beauty, DF.

PS- Getcha a bolt buffer and all you're hear is a click and then the bullet smacking the target.

JK16. - THANK YOU! I hated not knowing the backstory on the stock.

Yes. - it has really turned out to be an exceptional rimfire. I don't have the targets anymore but it was shooting roughly .100 to .200 groups at 25 yards. Some groups were better than that, and I screwed up a few. 10 shot groups stayed close to the same size.
The trigger is excellent, and not "too" light maybe 1.5 to 2 lbs and very clean. A little long but only a little.
I'm 6 ft tall and its very enjoyable to use a stock that is right. The comb height is right for optics too.
Before I bought this I only knew Green Mountain by their reputation. After this I wouldn't hesitate to buy another.

All in all, it was an impulse buy on an unknown gun that came up roses.

Maybe this weekend I can get some range time and post some fresh groups with different types of ammo.

Awesome little rig, kragman. Just beautiful.

And I agree the checkering does hint of Remington.

Dirtfarmer - I will certainly do that. Like I said, smooth and pretty light the way it is, but there is time take up that I'm not a fan of. Its a very good trigger the way it is now. It might be excellent after some adjustment. I like the oversized guard too.

Boy, I hope I find some HV stuff that it likes. It really belongs inn the woods, not at the range.

I have the Greenmountain SS sporter barrel on my rig and it shoots a lot of stuff good, including mini mag hollow points. It shoots TAC 22 ammo really good. I haven't tried Velostors out of it yet but it's on the menu for another time down the road.

They all have bolt buffers. The buffer does cut down on bolt cycling noise, but you still hear it slamming closed.

DF

i have a regular garden variety 10/22 targit w/ the spiral cut barrel. it runs like a champ, bone stock.

When you take the bottom plate off (held on by the one screw) you'll see the one piece sear/trigger part. Drift out the retaining pin, remove the part. The rear set screw adjusts sear engagement, the front one, disconnector engagement. The excessive trigger take up can be adjusted by advancing the rear screw.

After all is done, adjust the set screw in the trigger so the safety will work properly. I like just a hair of trigger play with the safety engaged to make sure the safety has room to work.

I adjusted the trigger take up to almost nothing, left just a hair. The trigger takes up slack, then there is slight resistance for the clean pull, sorta two stage, I guess. Mine now has very little take up, is 2#'s. You can change out the spring to alter pull wt.

The bolt hold open part is pretty neat. You press it in, the bolt is held back. You pull the bolt back, the spring loaded part drops down releasing the bolt. Mine would bind, so I carefully filed the slot until the bolt lock part moved freely.

I like this trigger more now after working with it.

DF

Got some ammo testing time in today.
Still working out little kinks in my new rest but its much better.
Some of those smaller groups are 3/8" edge to edge so about .150" CTC.
$3/box Aguila SV is looking like a bargain in this rifle too.

Who would shoot rimfire at 150 yards? Dunno... maybe more than you...

Mine has done in turkeys around the 120 yard mark. Took out a varmint that landed in the pond the other day, long side of 150 to hit it in the head....

Mini palma shooters play too!

To top it off, all the above except the mini palma as I don't play that game, is done here, 10-22 , subsonic, with a can....

Really liking this stock.

With this one and a can on the end of my Kidd, a "click" is about all you hear with SV ammo.

http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-22LR-Bolt-Buffer_p_12.html

10/22 something different - what, you left it stock? lol 10/22's have to be the most popular and modified rifle ever built. Fun stuff, especially now that ammo is available again.

I had a nice conversation with the good folks at Jard this AM. They've been making the front of the trigger safety configuation for around 5 yrs, said customers like that better. I prefer the rear safety, so does the guy at Jard. This fire control unit is around 10 yrs. old.

When you advance the rear adjustment screw for sear engagement, you need to adjust the disconnect screw so the disconnector barely brushes the hammer as it's cocked. With the AR, he said they like a hard brush, disconnector on hammer, not as hard with the 10-22.

They have instructions on their web site under "Manuals".

He said it was OK to adjust sear engagement until you couldn't feel any take up, just bounce the gun around and test it for safety. I like a hair of take up, just makes me feel better.

Good trigger, good folks.

DF

The wind was pretty still today so I raced off to the range after work. Same sketchy rest but with a towel for a rear bag (really doesn't work BTW) and lets try some ammo. I did not shoot well, but I had a few moments when things felt pretty solid, and those groups were bleeping terrific.
Yeah I know - I'm only posting the good ones.

Shot with the 10-22 I posted on this thread, and a rimfire Muse on my sboulder.

FYI - the little spot at the top edge of the first pic is round #5 - something shifted and I couldn't stop my finger in time.

opp

Those are some really nice groups! I'm in the process of putting together my second 10/22 and i can't decide which way i want to go barrel wise. i'm leaning towards another green mountain sporter barrel but this time instead of the 20" barrel i'm looking at a 16"

Thanks Jim. Mine has always shot well. I don't know the length off hand but.its a GM fluted sporter.
I'm looking to do more 100 yard work with it but even from my 2 groups shot last night it looks like no fluke with RWS HV BPs
The Aguila SV wasn't far behind either.

The Bass Pro 4-12 is coming off, probably in favor of a Weaver 6-24 that I have.
It will mount lower too which is better for me with that comb height.
If it works out I think I will have a really good set up.

Ill say it again - I was the lucky guy in the right place at the right time when that rifle came into the store.
I never thought I'd be in a position to EXPECT 1/2" groups at 100 - now I always will because I know that rifle/ammo combo can do it.
It feels a little bit like winning the lottery...

FYI - Kidd and Fedderson have barrels in the same general price range.
I have no experience with them but they have good reputations especially the Kidd's.

YEA, i'm looking at a fedderson barrel as well as the GM. most of the Kidd's i have seen are all bull barrels.

Serious question: Why the need for a muzzle brake for a .22? Surely not for excessive recoil, so what's the deal?

Because it looks all so cool!.
Actually I have no problems with them but I don't see a need for them myself. I guess if I were into rapid fire for groups I could see a use.

I've wondered if a directional brake would hurt pure accuacy.
By the same token, I've wondered if a greater volume of "exhaust gasses" at the moment of separation from an imperfect barrel crown would cause greater upset than a modest amount of gas would from the same crown. Seems logical, and if its true I assume that the advantages of a short barrel (which would have the least time to equalize gas pressure) typically mask any small amount of deviation from something like that.
I'm assume that a brake with an equal radial pattern would have no noticeable negative affect on accuracy.

Notice all the times I used the words wondered and assume. I'm no expert, I'm just thinking out loud here.

The brake on the Volquartsen posted earlier is there because it came that way...

It surely doesn't hurt accuracy; that gun is a tack driver.

I can't say from my experience just what it does...

If I woke up one morning with that question on my mind, I'll call Volquartsen and ask them why they put that brake on my gun...

"Looks cool" as posted earlier seems like a cool enough answer...

Edited to add a link to the bedding on the Ruger with the can.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/11650071/1

DF

well i just secured a 16 1/2" GM sporter barrel for my action. now to find the stock.

Many suggest one without a barrel band

I too am of that thought. However if a guy wanted to build a sleeper, all one needs to do is open up the hole in the barrel band so you don't get the contact and resulting barrel performance interference. But I just don't care for the carbine stock looks.

I got a beater '67 standard.
It shoots like crap.
Reason?
Maybe something to do with the stock (Overton)...hollowed under bbl except for a couple inches at the front.
When I refinished the stock, noticed the bbl band was a bear to get on.
Didn't really pay much attention past that.
Should have.

It had a tremendous amount of pressure on the bbl (w action screw torqued to 20 in lbs).
I got socket and some 400 paper and worked it down a bunch.
Now bbl band goes on and tightens OK (less gap too).
Bbl w band off, can shove an index card past tip area (drags). Past tip sides are not touching.
Gonna shoot it this week and see how it does. Might remove more from the front channel.

Band on first, band off next. Mod wood as needed.

The amount of bbl above the wood at tip...........looked like it never was done to proper depth at factory LOL.

Cleaned up pretty decent. Hope it behaves.
[img]http://imgur.com/yOQn2K9[/img]

Yeah it aint great, but this why I'm trying to keep the barrel band/stock
[img]http://i.imgur.com/y4wF0kK.jpg?1[/img]

Hookeye,

Nice job refinishing and I love those older 10-22's with real walnut.

If your current method doesn't work out, check the link I posted on glassing the 10-22. Mine was a heavy barrel, but I think that method will work with the std. bbl.

If the barrel is glassed in the forearm, pulled down by the action screw, the barrel band shouldn't be a player, or much of one.

DF

Thanks. Lots of the older ones were rather bland. This one isn't fancy, but in context it's decent.
I was wanting to get an aftermarket stock and GM heavy taper bbl (19")..............but the regular look has grown on me (I got a new one, walnut, back in '72 for my birthday, think pops paid around $50 for it then).

It shot decent.

This one doesn't, well in orig form anyway. Hopefully the mods help.
Kidd buffer and Volq hammer all I've done. Poor stock fit the major player I think, bbl could be a turd too, dunno yet.

I came across an Anschutz 184 and it shoots pretty good, so gone are the plans of making the 10/22 into a tack driver.
No fancy stock or bbl..............just try to get it to look stock and shoot better.

Still think that walnut sporter pic ahead in thread the best aftermarket stock I've seen for a 10/22.

May want to try an OEM barrel from Ebay.

During certain periods, Ruger barrels were hit or miss.

Another factory barrel may work OK; these could be late production, which would be good.

You could probably recover cost or close to what you paid if you changed your mind.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-10-22-factory-Barrel-18-5-Barrel-/112426764696

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-10-22-Semi-Auto-Rifle-Barrel-22-LR-/361991046935

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-10-22-FDE-Duracoated-18-5-rifle-barrel-GUC-/112429208626

DF

It's a pre warning gun. Trying to keep it that way (there is a pre warning bbl on ebay with no sights for reasonable).
May not get to range til weekend.
Still haven't put a front sight on the Davidson's "Great Eight" mk2 22/45 I picked up.
If it shoots good proly get a newer style frame for it.
Guy before had some fiber optic aftermarket deal. I took that off before it left the shop!
Proly run it with a 2 or 2.5X scope.

Not many of these out there, but I've had this one a couple of years. It is a distributor exclusive. The barrel is a 20" mid-weight with a target chamber. The trigger is the same as the target model.

http://ruger.com/products/1022Sporter/specSheets/1237.html



I've since replaced the scope with a VX-2 with dials and have figured out the settings out to 200 yards. It shoots MOA easily at 50 and 100 yards. At 200 the wind has to be dead calm, but I've gotten some 2" groups. That is with CCI Mini mags. It'll shoot standard velocity ammo a little better, but I haven't figured out the scope settings with it at 200 yards. It its 4-5" low at 100 compared to the CCI and is barely on paper. I'm gonna have to twist the dials quite a bit more at 200 just to get on paper.