I had a Nosler M48 Patriot/Liberty rebored from 308 win to 358 win, but it shoots horrible with flyers and completely unpredictable. When Jess sent the rifle back it had a little note saying it was test fired with Hornady ammo.
I recrowned the barrel. Didn’t help. Looking down the barrel from the muzzle, it looks like the edge of the rifling has a step in areas. It starts and stops. It also has chips along the edges of the rifling.
I tried to get pictures, but they aren’t the best. Feel like I took a good rifle and trashed it. I feel there is no way around having it rebarreled.
There’s lots of info here on JES services along with results. They’ve been mostly good. It seems like it depends on what you start with as far as barrel and rifling yielding a perfect outcome on the rebore. I’d be unhappy too if wouldn’t shoot.
One other cause could also simply be the fact that a thinner wall barrel will suffer more from harmonics. I know that is the case with my T3x that I had JES make into a 338. How I support the fore end makes a big difference.
The rifling doesn’t look factory. It’s rough. I see the normal tool marks from it looks like drilling out the bore and some parallel marks following the rifling. Doesn’t bother me. Not expecting a perfect new barrel, but the rough edge on the lands in the rifling is what jumps out at me. I don’t know if it’s because of the stainless or a dull cutting tool, but the edge of the lands has chips/gouges and in some places it appears stepped, like it wasn’t cut all the way to the groove depth.
It fouled pretty bad, cleaned it and used DBC. Fouling has gotten less and less, getting easier to clean with every shoot and clean cycle.
Thru the Hawkeye, I can see where his rifling cutter chattered a bit in a few places, some tool marks from drilling.
But, very smooth pass thru with a tight patch, bore feels very uniform. I can see a few areas where voids in the metal showed up, which can’t be avoided.
But, with select loads it’s sub MOA. Shoots MOA with others, a few not as good. More good than bad.
Call him. I hear lots of good reports, first bad one yet. His price and turn around are great.
I wonder if he's not taking his time and taking a deep cut with each pass. The cut rifling barrel makers all mention how little metal they take per pass down each groove. This would seem incompatible with fast turn around times.
No, I wish I had one. I’m looking down the barrel and all the “issues” are within a few inches of the muzzle. I did just place an order for a cheap borescope.
Seems odd. Flyers? Unpredictable? Could be bedding issues, optics, mounts, ammo, trigger control etc.
I’m not new to this. It’s this rifle. Not saying I’m not a bone head and something didn’t slip through, but before posting anything, I went through this rifle several times over several months. I would get aggravated and come back to it.
It reminds me that there's nothing I could do with a 358 that I couldn't do with a 308, and there are a few things I could do better with the 308.
I have a perfectly good .308 that I bought with the intention of going .358, but this is where I keep coming back to. Plus the factory ammo availability, if needed.
I hear lots of good reports, first bad one yet. His price and turn around are great.
DF
This is why I went with him. The only complaining that I heard was sometimes with the way he stamps barrels.
I was happy with how he stamped my barrel. He just stamped a 5 over the 0 to make 358.
He sent a note that he'd stamped the bottom of my barrel, didn't mess up the factory stamp.
So, the Win barrel still says .243. On the bottom, it's stamped .358 1-12, designating round and twist.
I think a very uniform and consistent bore contributes to accuracy. Even if the rifling isn't that pretty, a uniform bore is critical, having seen barrels that weren't. Tight spots, loose spots, they generally don't shoot very well. I had a Kimber barrel like that, replaced it.
DBC helps with fouling. Those barrels smooth up over time with use.
I don't think he could turn them out as fast as he does and at his price point, making them all look like Kreigers...
As far as .308 vs. .358. I have both, the .358 is more fun for a Loony. You can shoot .357 revolver bullets. I have three scopes I'm mounting for different classes of ammo. A Leupold VX-3i 3-9x40 CDS for 225 NPT, NAB, and SGK. With the CDS, I'll have an effective round out to 300 yds or so. A Bushnell 4200 3-9x40 will be set up for the 200 gr. Horn FTX, another scope for 158 gr. JHP's.
"As far as .308 vs. .358. I have both, the .358 is more fun for a Loony. You can shoot .357 revolver bullets. I have three scopes I'm mounting for different classes of ammo. A Leupold VX-3i 3-9x40 CDS for 225 NPT, NAB, and SGK. With the CDS, I'll have an effective round out to 300 yds or so. A Bushnell 4200 3-9x40 will be set up for the 200 gr. Horn FTX, another scope for 158 gr. JHP's."
That's way too much mucking around for me these days. If I want to shoot .357 bullets, I'll grab my Marlin or Ruger 77. My rifle looney'ism is waning.
He called me back the other day after I left a message about a rebore I want done. It took a couple days for him to return the call as he said he is pretty busy so you might want to call as soon as you can and leave a message
Today, I scrubbed and scrubbed on the bore getting it as clean as possible. I brushed the crap out of it. I don't use brushes very often in general.
I mounted a scope on higher than I like rings. It's what I had lying around.
Then, I went out and shot 10 handloads using Barnes TTSX bullets, one to find paper, and 3 - 3 round groups. I don't have any factory 358. I was shooting around 2" - 3 shot groups at 100 yards.
When I came in to start cleaning, the muzzle end of the barrel is holding carbon really bad as seen from the muzzle end. I don't have a borescope, so this may be going on in more of the barrel.
I thought I could try cutting more off, but I don't know that I want a 16" barrel. I don't know if it's an optical illusion (I'm holding the rifle up to a light and looking down the barrel) or what, but the main "problem" areas look like they are near the muzzle.
I had a 700 35 Whelen that copper fouled terribly. The 1st 5 or 6 shots were not bad on target but it was downhill from there with lots of Sweet's in between range sessions. I think it took about 15 or 20 rounds total with the NECO firelapping kit to smooth it out. The throat advanced about .015" but the bore is a lot smoother & fouls very little now. Accuracy is better than before lapping. David Tubb also makes fire lapping kits with ready made abrasive bullets for about $35. It might be worth a shot... or 10 depending what JES says.
I had JES Rebore a .270 to .35 Whelen. Overall I’m happy, but with some caveats.
My directions as to how I wanted the barrel restamped were not followed, so there is som chipped up Cerakote. Oh well.
At first the barrel copper fouled like crazy. Accuracy was okay. I loaded up a couple boxes of Speer .358 bullets I bought on sale during a rebate using a bunch of free to me once fired .30-06 brass I turned into .35 Whelen.
Around 250 rounds through the barrel something changed. Several different loads started shooting tighter. Barrel shows less copper fouling.
I’m not an expert, but I assume the recut barrel needed sone shooting and cleaning to smooth out some rough spots.
My rifle is a good enough shooter that when I’m in the field and put the scope on an animal the limiting factor in accuracy is me.
I’ll be sending more figures to JES, but like my .35 Whelen, the base rifle is going to be a pawn shop rescue.
Today, I scrubbed and scrubbed on the bore getting it as clean as possible. I brushed the crap out of it. I don't use brushes very often in general.
I mounted a scope on higher than I like rings. It's what I had lying around.
Then, I went out and shot 10 handloads using Barnes TTSX bullets, one to find paper, and 3 - 3 round groups. I don't have any factory 358. I was shooting around 2" - 3 shot groups at 100 yards.
When I came in to start cleaning, the muzzle end of the barrel is holding carbon really bad as seen from the muzzle end. I don't have a borescope, so this may be going on in more of the barrel.
I thought I could try cutting more off, but I don't know that I want a 16" barrel. I don't know if it's an optical illusion (I'm holding the rifle up to a light and looking down the barrel) or what, but the main "problem" areas look like they are near the muzzle.
I’d do two things before I started cutting off barrel.
I've owned several JES rebores and aside from the stamping issue on one, they all shoot lights out. They were all on non-stainless barrels. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again, at all. The 35 Whelen he did for me shoots like Tannhausers rifle above.
I doubt the final price is anywhere close to what I paid for a JES rebore...
Go to McGowen site and select your desired specs and it will show total $.
At a quick look, after I bought the barrel like I wanted, had it Cerakote, sights mounted and it all cerakoted I’m guessing I’m in around close to 3 rebore s, maybe more.
I don’t need the panache of a McGowan when my rebored rifle dies everything I want.
I’d be curious to know how many different loads have been down the tube post rebore? From reading, it’s not clear exactly what loads have been tried.
There isn’t much out there in factory 358. I’ve reloaded for years and reload for several calibers. Usually you can find something pretty close. Then, fine tune it.
I’ve tried barnes, speer, sierra, and nosler. I’ve used load data from magazines and manuals. The m48 magazine is relatively short compared to say a Ruger’s, so that can limit seat depths.
I’d be curious to know how many different loads have been down the tube post rebore? From reading, it’s not clear exactly what loads have been tried.
There isn’t much out there in factory 358. I’ve reloaded for years and reload for several calibers. Usually you can find something pretty close. Then, fine tune it.
I’ve tried barnes, speer, sierra, and nosler. I’ve used load data from magazines and manuals. The m48 magazine is relatively short compared to say a Ruger’s, so that can limit seat depths.
Call JES see what he says or if he recommends going over it again with a sort of lapping cut. Bore Scope see if it is the cutting or inherent barrel voids. Send photos to JES. See if it is localized at the muzzle. Consider the Tubbs Final Finish it could help. How about a .375 or 9.3-08? Maybe try DBC see if it does anything, but this is more for fouling than accuracy. If mostly at the muzzle try cutting back an inch or two and testing. Look for a take off barrel and see if JES will rebore it for a reduced price or free. Keep in mind if the problem is voids it wasn't JES fault at all.
I’d be curious to know how many different loads have been down the tube post rebore? From reading, it’s not clear exactly what loads have been tried.
There isn’t much out there in factory 358. I’ve reloaded for years and reload for several calibers. Usually you can find something pretty close. Then, fine tune it.
I’ve tried barnes, speer, sierra, and nosler. I’ve used load data from magazines and manuals. The m48 magazine is relatively short compared to say a Ruger’s, so that can limit seat depths.
So for this particular rifle, was it just a single Barnes load or have you tried a couple of different bullets/loads?
I’d be curious to know how many different loads have been down the tube post rebore? From reading, it’s not clear exactly what loads have been tried.
There isn’t much out there in factory 358. I’ve reloaded for years and reload for several calibers. Usually you can find something pretty close. Then, fine tune it.
I’ve tried barnes, speer, sierra, and nosler. I’ve used load data from magazines and manuals. The m48 magazine is relatively short compared to say a Ruger’s, so that can limit seat depths.
That could be an issue with certain bullets. I just got off the phone with a Nosler tech, asking why they didn't have 200 NAB load data for the .358 Win. He said that bullet ended up with a COAL beyond SAAMI, so they didn't work up loads.
My pre-64 JES bored .358 has plenty of mag room and plenty of throat for about any bullet. A 12 twist should be good for heavies, but this one seems to like lighter bullets. I'll start with TAC and work up loads for the 200 NAB.
To me, the solution to a JES bored gun, as pointed out by others, is to shoot it a bunch. That tends to smooth it out. Mine cleans easier and seem to be settling down after less than a hundred rounds. With a few sub MOA loads already, I think I'll have more as I load more and shoot more. And to the OP, I did initially have some 2" and 3" loads with lots of fouling.
Stay with it, don't give up. It may end up suprising you.
Several years ago I had JES rebore a 30-06 to 35 Whelen. I couldn't find any 200 grain load it liked but it did shoot Remington 250 grains really well. In the end I don't believe the gun was any better for any animal in any situation than when it was a 30-06. It just kicked more is all.
Yesterday I killed a bear at 265yds with one shot from one of my many JES rebores. This particular .358 required nearly 200 rounds down the tube until accuracy improved and fouling reduced.
Wayne York charges about $100 more than JES for rebores. He made a barrel lapping machine that polishes the machining marks smooth. Turnaround time is 3-4 months.
He may be able to smooth it out faster than shooting and cleaning it yourself.
As for cleaning, I have found aggressive copper cleaners to be necessary for cleaning JES rebores until they smooth out.
I have had him do three rifles for me and will send him a 4th pretty quick.
1. M70 338 Win SS Classic I rebored and rechambered to 35 Newton. Rifle shot amazing but once the barrel was chopped so you couldn't see the BOSS numbers it was 20", but the gun shot like crazy
2. M70 P64 300 Wby to a 375 Improved. This rifle also shoots 3 rounds under 1" with 260 Partitions, 250 TTSX's and Federal 300 PT's. I shot it about 25 times, cleaning every 5 down to steel. DBC'ed it and it's just a peach.
3. Ruger Hawkeye 280 to a 9.3x62. This rifle has shot 250 Accubonds with RL15 like it's meant to be a 22-250. Just not a darned issue at all with this one. I will try more bullets later on, but as DF mentioned, they take a bit of shooting to smooth out some, but they are accurate.
If the bore looks a bit rough, try the Tubb's bullets in it. It has saved a few rifles I was going to rebarrel. It lengthened the throat a touch, but accuracy has been easy after that treatment. The barrels were both later P64's with rougher rifling that fouled very badly. Same story as a JES rebore in my opinion. It's work the 35 bucks to try them out and follow the directions to the T and I'd bet a dollar you'll see a bunch of improvement.
Yesterday I killed a bear at 265yds with one shot from one of my many JES rebores. This particular .358 required nearly 200 rounds down the tube until accuracy improved and fouling reduced.
Wayne York charges about $100 more than JES for rebores. He made a barrel lapping machine that polishes the machining marks smooth. Turnaround time is 3-4 months.
He may be able to smooth it out faster than shooting and cleaning it yourself.
As for cleaning, I have found aggressive copper cleaners to be necessary for cleaning JES rebores until they smooth out.
Thanks, Dinny
Patch Out and brushes worked for the first clenaing after I got it. It was fouled from his test firing.
Then, DBC and repeat shoot and clean cycles until it now cleans rather quickly. And accuracy improves with time and shooting, as many have already noted.
I'm sure Wayne's work will look better thru the bore scope initially. I can do a good bit of shooting for the difference.
With Teslong borescopes being about as cheap as a FinalFinish kit, makes sure you 'scope it before you start removing material, even if it's just a polish. You really don't even have much idea what's really going on.
I will get s video and add it later of the muzzle area. For the 4 inches near the muzzle, copper is really bad and the edge of the rifling looks rolled.
To me, these mess ups don’t appear to be anything wrong with the metal because several of the mess ups are at the same point down the barrel on two or three grooves/lands of the rifling, but I wouldn’t know the first thing to cutting a barrel myself.
You may have to print the pictures and mail them with a letter. I spoke to Wayne York about this. He does have an email address and he may be able to lap and salvage the barrel.
JWP my point was the rifle should go back to JES to have them lap it for free... The more the guy does to the rifle before it goes back to the smith ... doesn’t make a lot of sense so I was suggesting somewhat lightly that lapping would be better.
But it seems like sending it back to let JES fix it wasn’t the goal from the get go... (2nd OP post).
Look at the small, cross way striations on top of the lands. That's the kind of stuff for lapping, not those large gouges and pieces of mashed over steel.
Just refer Jess to this site - he comes here sometimes and can simply view the pics here. I will be very surprised if he does not offer to fix this, even with a new barrel if required. I'd keep on shooting it until then. Try some cup and core bullets vs the barnes - a bit cheaper to get the smoothing process going.
To me, these mess ups don’t appear to be anything wrong with the metal because several of the mess ups are at the same point down the barrel on two or three grooves/lands of the rifling, but I wouldn’t know the first thing to cutting a barrel myself.
Here's what I'd say: "Hello, this is [underpressure]. Back on [date] you rebored a rifle to .358 Winchester for me [give a few details about the rifle]. After receiving the rifle back, I've been trying various loads and the results are not what I had anticipated. Looking through the barrel with my borescope I'm seeing some areas that are concerning to me. I understand a rebored barrel may not end up looking like a factory match barrel, but I think my barrel may have some issues above and beyond what's "normal" and I'd like to discuss this with you."
To me, these mess ups don’t appear to be anything wrong with the metal because several of the mess ups are at the same point down the barrel on two or three grooves/lands of the rifling, but I wouldn’t know the first thing to cutting a barrel myself.
Here's what I'd say: "Hello, this is [underpressure]. Back on [date] you rebored a rifle to .358 Winchester for me [give a few details about the rifle]. After receiving the rifle back, I've been trying various loads and the results are not what I had anticipated. Looking through the barrel with my borescope I'm seeing some areas that are concerning to me. I understand a rebored barrel may not end up looking like a factory match barrel, but I think my barrel may have some issues above and beyond what's "normal" and I'd like to discuss this with you."
You may have to print the pictures and mail them with a letter. I spoke to Wayne York about this. He does have an email address and he may be able to lap and salvage the barrel.
I emailed Wayne, and he emailed me back. He said galling is a frequent issue while trying to cut rifle certain stainless barrels. He doesn't think lapping wouldn't help correct the issues this barrel has, and a new barrel would be the best answer.
Posted this last sunday , still haven't taken it up with JES just bad mouthing his work on the internet then expect him to fix it? You are a real piece of work. Mb
Posted this last sunday , still haven't taken it up with JES just bad mouthing his work on the internet then expect him to fix it? You are a real piece of work. Mb
I bet you're the life of every party you attend...
Posted this last sunday , still haven't taken it up with JES just bad mouthing his work on the internet then expect him to fix it? You are a real piece of work. Mb
Look at the small, cross way striations on top of the lands. That's the kind of stuff for lapping, not those large gouges and pieces of mashed over steel.
JES cuts rifling so he may be able to clean it up and then lap.....but not if you don’t call him and let him know
Posted this last sunday , still haven't taken it up with JES just bad mouthing his work on the internet then expect him to fix it? You are a real piece of work. Mb
I wonder how it it that we can know what the OP's interactions with JES have or have not been in the time since he first posted his issue. Maybe they are already working together to solve the problem? I'd give both of them the benefit of the doubt for now. Though if Jess makes it right somehow I do think the OP needs to come back and report that, so the thread doesn't end looking bad for JES. I'll just wait for the final answer...
I always considered a rebore the roll of the dice. Some work, some don't and the ones that don't aren't always the fault of the one doing the work. It's just the nature of the beast.
Posted this last sunday , still haven't taken it up with JES just bad mouthing his work on the internet then expect him to fix it? You are a real piece of work. Mb
I wonder how it it that we can know what the OP's interactions with JES have or have not been in the time since he first posted his issue. Maybe they are already working together to solve the problem? I'd give both of them the benefit of the doubt for now. Though if Jess makes it right somehow I do think the OP needs to come back and report that, so the thread doesn't end looking bad for JES. I'll just wait for the final answer...
Cheers, Rex
Agree.
Just common courtesy.
JES has a bunch of good reports. But all barrels won’t work as well as others. And you never know till it’s tried.
All can say, my .358 Win rebore shoots better than the pitted .243 Pre-64 Fwt I sent him.
It’s a bit finicky, but does shoot a few loads very well. I’ve just got to tweak’em, find the best one(s) and go from there.
I always considered a rebore the roll of the dice. Some work, some don't and the ones that don't aren't always the fault of the one doing the work. It's just the nature of the beast.
I always considered a rebore the roll of the dice. Some work, some don't and the ones that don't aren't always the fault of the one doing the work. It's just the nature of the beast.
From all that I’ve read, I agree.
My one rebore job to date was fine by JES and it certainly shoots better now. I also sent in a pawn shop rescue, so my ceiling was high.
I’d personally think twice before sending in a perfectly fine rifle that had done value snd was a fine shooter.
I always considered a rebore the roll of the dice. Some work, some don't and the ones that don't aren't always the fault of the one doing the work. It's just the nature of the beast.
From all that I’ve read, I agree.
My one rebore job to date was fine by JES and it certainly shoots better now. I also sent in a pawn shop rescue, so my ceiling was high.
I’d personally think twice before sending in a perfectly fine rifle that had done value snd was a fine shooter.
I would never rebore a shooter. I didn’t; I wouldn’t.
But for one that’s pitted, needing a new barrel, rebore is an option.
JES cuts rifling so he may be able to clean it up and then lap.....but not if you don’t call him and let him know
Does JES inspect the work they do before it leaves the shop?
Whats it take to send a note with the barreled action explaining how the job turned out? ie: why does the customer have to look through the tube and find such 'surprises' , then have to raise the issue with JES? I understand Nosler 48 have PacNor barrels, are they know to present problems in rebores?
I've been following this thread and keep waiting to see where someone actually asked JES about it... if they haven't, that's weird. If they have, I wish they'd post the results.
I would not re-bore a Pac Nor unless it was shot out or damaged. Supposedly a button rifled barrel can add stress to the barrel, not as much as a hammer forged one but more than a cut rifled barrel.
Definitely get with JES. I have a Tikka that was rebored from a 270 to a 35 Whelen and it was having issues with factory ammo. I called him and left a message. He instructed me to send it to him.
A week or so later I received it back with a note advising he fixed it and shot three different brands of ammo through it. It now shoots sub moa groups with factory Barnes 200gr ttsx. I killed my first elk with it a couple months ago.
I always considered a rebore the roll of the dice. Some work, some don't and the ones that don't aren't always the fault of the one doing the work. It's just the nature of the beast.
From all that I’ve read, I agree.
My one rebore job to date was fine by JES and it certainly shoots better now. I also sent in a pawn shop rescue, so my ceiling was high.
I’d personally think twice before sending in a perfectly fine rifle that had done value snd was a fine shooter.
I would never rebore a shooter. I didn’t; I wouldn’t.
But for one that’s pitted, needing a new barrel, rebore is an option.
DF
My thoughts as well. A rebore from 308 to 358, just because, is silly to me. If the barrel was toasted, nothing to lose.
Posted this last sunday , still haven't taken it up with JES just bad mouthing his work on the internet then expect him to fix it? You are a real piece of work. Mb
JES does a good job for what it is. He turns'em out fast at a good price.
I didn't expect my .358 Win rebore to look like a Brux thru the Hawkeye and it didn't.
One thing for sure, he bores an even and uniform barrel, which seems critical for good accuracy. His rifling may be a bit rough, probably cuts it faster with each pass than premium barrels makers would. But their barrels cost a bunch more. And, the voids/inclusions you sometimes see aren't his fault, nor do they affect accuracy that much if any, IMO.
Shooting smooths out the machining, DBC helps with fouling. The .358 Win isn't a match round to begin with, so MOA in a hunting weight rifle is about the best one should expect. Mine has gone 3/4 MOA with a few loads, MOA with several. It is more finicky than my Shilen barreled Creed, but so is about everything else.
It shoots better than the pitted .243 I sent him. I'm still working on loads and am enjoying this gun. But, I always did like the Pre-64 Fwt., still do. BTW, am sending the VX-3 back to Leupold today. It went bonkers, won't zero.
The last guy who started a thread about tooling marks in a $250 rebore, later went on to shoot 3/4 groups after he gave it some time to break in. Anyone remember that thread a couple months back?
An anal paper puncher with an Amazon prime bore scope, Christ is that a force to be reckoned with.
All three of mine are good. I have two bored to 358 Winchester and one to 9.3X62. All good, all visually look good. I wouldn't put a bore scope down mine thought. I'm too happy with the way they shoot. Minute of meat. Be Well, RZ.
I think JES even says that some barrels won't rebore very well. Some barrel materials/fabrication methods aren't conducive to quality rebores.
Then I hope he declines the job.
i
How in the hell is he supposed to know until he tries?
He knows. He told me that Husqvarna barrels don't cut well because they're too hard
Sounds like he knows which ones are problematic . If told a particular model was one he had issues with then the onus would be one me if I requested a re bore.
I sent him an old Westernfield Sako L57 .243 about a week ago to be rebored to .358 win. I expect it back fairly soon and hopefully it will shoot as well as the 3 others he's done for me.
I just heard back from Jesse. He said I could send it back to him, and he could try and clean it up.
I asked him if he cut one groove at a time, or if three grooves were cut at once. He responded that only one is cut at a time. That's what I thought, but I was asking because issues in the barrel usually came at the same point on all three grooves. I did learn he doesn't have a borescope or an email address.
My expectations were too high for sending in a perfectly good rifle that I wanted in 358 win. I was wanting to keep the look and everything of the factory rifle. I chose to do it because everything that I read was good about JES rebores. I even read where people were buying rifles just to have them rebored.
My rifle was completed quickly, but it was also a let down. The rifle is cerakoted. When I opened the returned box, the cerakote was scraped off the sides of the barrel on opposite sides as a result of a slip in a vise or wrench. I didn't have an issue with how he stamped the caliber. It bothers me how there was no mention of the cerakote damage. Just makes me feel that there isn't a lot of attention to detail. This goes back to the second line of this post. I should have sent it back right after I first got it returned to me, but I wasn't too impressed based on the rifle before me. I just keep thinking if I did this for a living. If I took the finish off of a guys rifle that was sent to me for bore work, I would have a problem with that. It wouldn't sit well with me. People say but what do you expect for x amount of dollars. I expect a job to be done for the amount charged.
After cutting down the barrel myself trying to remove the worst of the rifling and with the cerakote damage, I'm not at all happy with the rifle. I know that's half my fault, but the more I deal with it, the more it aggravates me. I think I'm just going to rebarrel the rifle and start over. After I'm done, I will have thrown enough money away that I could have built a custom rifle.
I just heard back from Jesse. He said I could send it back to him, and he could try and clean it up.
I asked him if he cut one groove at a time, or if three grooves were cut at once. He responded that only one is cut at a time. That's what I thought, but I was asking because issues in the barrel usually came at the same point on all three grooves. I did learn he doesn't have a borescope or an email address.
My expectations were too high for sending in a perfectly good rifle that I wanted in 358 win. I was wanting to keep the look and everything of the factory rifle. I chose to do it because everything that I read was good about JES rebores. I even read where people were buying rifles just to have them rebored.
My rifle was completed quickly, but it was also a let down. The rifle is cerakoted. When I opened the returned box, the cerakote was scraped off the sides of the barrel on opposite sides as a result of a slip in a vise or wrench. I didn't have an issue with how he stamped the caliber. It bothers me how there was no mention of the cerakote damage. Just makes me feel that there isn't a lot of attention to detail. This goes back to the second line of this post. I should have sent it back right after I first got it returned to me, but I wasn't too impressed based on the rifle before me. I just keep thinking if I did this for a living. If I took the finish off of a guys rifle that was sent to me for bore work, I would have a problem with that. It wouldn't sit well with me. People say but what do you expect for x amount of dollars. I expect a job to be done for the amount charged.
After cutting down the barrel myself trying to remove the worst of the rifling and with the cerakote damage, I'm not at all happy with the rifle. I know that's half my fault, but the more I deal with it, the more it aggravates me. I think I'm just going to rebarrel the rifle and start over. After I'm done, I will have thrown enough money away that I could have built a custom rifle.
So you took a hacksaw too it before you heard back from him?
Based on what I've seen, the ratio of happy to unhappy JES customers seems to be about 1000:1.
The rifles he's done for me thus far shoot very well.
There are a lot of JES bored rifles out there. For sure the law of averages will catch him sooner or later, can't hit a home run every time at bat.
I would never send a shooter for a re-bore. I didn't and I won't.
The one JES rifle I have, posted earlier, is satisfactory, although the bore looks a bit rough thru the Hawkeye.
It shoots about as well as the typical .358 Win, which is not a target or a long range round. It is what it is..
A ,358 Win in a light hunting rifle that will consistently shoot 1 1/2" or better will do what it's designed to do. Mine has gone 3/4", which is pretty good.
It has smoothed out with shooting and I've heard that about those re-bores.
For the price and the turn around time, I can't bad mouth JES. I'm glad he's out there doing his thing.
With one exception, I don’t know if the ones I sent him were shooters or not. I needed a rifle to my specs so I just sent him donors. The .30-30 Marlin TK was a shooter, but I needed more power. It’s still a shooter, just as a .444 now.
I think this thread offers a useful read for people considering a JES rebore.
A JES rebore can be a great option to obtain a decent shooting rifle in a medium bore cartridge, particularly when the rifle you are starting with has bore issues or is a mediocre shooter or maybe has a few cosmetic challenges.
If you want a custom rifle level end product with a perfect exterior and perfect pictures through your borescope, I'd consider a different option.
I think this thread offers a useful read for people considering a JES rebore.
A JES rebore can be a great option to obtain a decent shooting rifle in a medium bore cartridge, particularly when the rifle you are starting with has bore issues or is a mediocre shooter or maybe has a few cosmetic challenges.
If you want a custom rifle level end product with a perfect exterior and perfect pictures through your borescope, I'd consider a different option.
Agree.
JES is a great $250 option for a rifle with a tired bore needing a second lease on life.
Can't compete with a $2,000 custom job. Shouldn't have to, wasn't intended to.
Based on what I've seen, the ratio of happy to unhappy JES customers seems to be about 1000:1.
The rifles he's done for me thus far shoot very well.
That seems to be the case. The one seems to garner a lot more keyboard time than the 1000. He’s done one for me and three for a friend. All shot well.
And as having been a barrel maker's flunky, I can say with a 100% confidence level, that no barrel can be bored and rifled to perfection if the original material the rifle barrel was not perfect. Sad but true, barrel materials will have pits, voids, inclusions, hard spots and soft spots. Perhaps more so nowadays if the steel is imported. You can't cook a gourmet meal with MRE's as the main ingredient.
Thought about scaring up a tomato stake in 243, sending it to have bored to a 338 Fed or 358 Win. Wonder if finding a 243 or the like, shot out, by a premium barrel maker would be the way to go?
Anyone have a takeoff Kimber 84M barrel in any 308 based cartridge, 308 or smaller? I could use another 338 Fed barrel. JES did a T3X barrel for me that shot quite well.
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