Ruger 77 trigger replacement? Are they easy to change with limited gunsmithing skills? And if so what do you recommend? Hunting application

Tang Safety or MKII/Hawkeye?

Rick, keep the original trigger, it is easily smoothed up. Trigger pull is easily remedied with a slightly lighter spring.

Craig boddington wrote about cutting off a coil on a 77 Ruger spring, which is fkn stupid, as the trigger has no tension on it when the bolt is open, because the spring is now too short and not properly flat.

On the newer hawkeyes, I take out the factory spring and articulate it till it's bottomed out a dozen times. It softens but doesn't loose it's length. Always puts the trigger at exactly 2.5-2.75 lbs.

Actually 1 each

I've had my gunsmith adjust all my factory triggers for my tang safety and MKII M77's. Its easy to accomplish for someone knowledgeable in trigger tuning.

My tang safety rifles factory triggers have pull weight adjusted to 3.5lbs for big game. My Varmint tang safety has a long discontinued Canjar single set trigger, which is spectacular at 2lb non set & ounces in set.

My MKII rifles have Woolf trigger/sear spring kits and some polishing on the sear surface to 3.5lbs.

I had at one time a rare set trigger for the MKII made by the late Johannes Kepplinger of Austria. It was a work of art, needless to say!

On my Tang safety Whelen I had a Timney put in the same time I had it restocked. I believe you need to remove some wood or material for the Timney though.

Work over the MKII, its easy to do yourself. There are diagrams on the net that show you how. Just don't go as far as they say. Also, you can go to the hardware store and buy a coil spring that is lighter in weight than the factory one. These work well in both the MKII and Hawkeye with the LC6. Generally the LC6 only needs a lighter spring and very minimal polishing. The mkII needs material removed from the sear and then polish it out. I've brought them down to a smooth crisp 2.5 pound pull. Just take your time and check periodically. Don't remove too much, or you will deem it unsafe and you'll be looking for a new sear. Ebay has them at times.

Op, all you need is a good gunsmith. I own several rugers, tang, mk2 and a Hawkeye. My gunsmith has worked all three down to the 2.5 thru 3lb pull. Smooth and crisp. There are probably replacement triggers available but I suggest you find a Smith familiar with and comfortable working on rugers. I suspect you'll be well satisfied.

Holy fu ck, these triggers aren't hard to work on. Why all of you guys need a "good gunsmith" is fu cking beyond me. Learn to work on these simple mechanism's yourself. Do you have mommy put your pants on too?

LMAO, That's some funny shyt BSA, but true. RJ

I don’t particularly care to work on triggers myself! Just sayin.

We aren't all built the same. Some of us aren't good at mechanical things. I am sure there are some things you suck at too. To others, those things are simple.

Is there anything you are good at besides running your suck?

I kinda suck at being diplomatic too.

But I do know how to tune a Ruger 77 Mk II trigger:

http://centerfirecentral.com/77trigger.html

(Click on the link for the drawing)

http://centerfirecentral.com/images/trigger.gif

Go take a bullet for someone, hero.

You're a wealth of knowledge. Spouting off left and right and all you've killed in 1/2 dozen years is a doe. Another liberal plant the needs a side view mirror on the back of his queer head.

Another sock puppet that is far from entertaining, interesting or creative. Just a useless gasbag.

Very early tangers actually have an adjustable trigger. Later ones have some adjustments but not like the early ones. The Mark II and Hawkeyes as already mentioned can be tweaked to a nice hunter friendly with minimal effort. Some where I have a tang safety trigger assembly I picked up if you want to keep the original trigger as is and mess with this one. Pm me if interested and I’ll shoot you a price.

the factory tang safety triggers are adjustable

Here is the takeaway:

1. Ruger triggers are easy to work on, it's all there in your face (that's what she said).

2. If you aren't handy, go for it anyways. You are already poised to purchase a replacement trigger, which still takes a little man skills to install. Since you already intend to buy one, what is the downside of playing with the factory trigger?

3. Paul is a useless woman, meaning she can no longer breed and is dry as hell. Maybe she can make a sandwich.

I'm going to have my gunsmith install one of the Rifle Basix replacement triggers in my Hawkeye. I'm also one of those that won't work on triggers. I just don't. I don't like mushrooms on my steak either, and I get "irritated" when a Waiter say "we don't have Coke Products, we have Pepsi"! ... lol.

By God!

I worked one on a 77/22. Removed he hump and reduced the engagement. With a replacement spring, the reworked trigger tested safe, but was too light for my taste, so the original one went back in. Perfect. Less work actually than working down the safety pad on a Timney.

Funny post but I'd bet Paul could kick your ass.

I forgot to mention in regards to the Mark II and Hawkeye models, Dayton made a replacement trigger for a while, I have one and it is very nice. All you do is swap the parts. If you wanted to enhance the set up on that one there is adjustment available but I found the specs as is more than appealing.

Timney’s work great in the M77 MKII and take about 15 min to install if I remember correctly. I don’t remember having to tweak anything on the Timney I installed years ago with no prior experience. I certainly wouldn’t pay anyone to do it.

I’ve also stoned/polished several down to a nice crisp 2.5-3lbs. Follow the directions online it ain’t that hard.

Having said that....If you think you’re going to screw it up working on it yourself, do it anyway. You might surprise yourself. If you do screw it up, just buy the Timney and put it in yourself...it’ll be perfect.

Best case: You gain some knowledge about how the trigger works and how to tune it. Worst case: You end up spending the money you would have paid a smith to work on it on a new Timney which will be as good or better than your smith could have done.

Just my thoughts,

Leftybolt

I believe that you're talking about Dayton Traister. I put one in a MKII 20+ years ago and have been pretty happy with it. They're adjustable for pull, but not overtravel, but that's a fairly simple thing to remedy. Price was in to $45 range when I bought mine.

I have used this method in the post by UncleAlps working on every Mk II and Hawkeye that I have owned in the last many years and it works great. It removes all the creep and will usually get trigger pull weight down to 2.5 to 3.0 pounds. In a couple, I did need to change the trigger spring to achieve the pull weight I wanted. Work slowly and don’t remove too much at a time. I have not caused an unsafe trigger on any Rugers that I have worked in this manner. It just works!

Adding a PS: I am not a gunsmith and not really very mechanical. But I can read and that’s all it takes.