Joined this forum because of a lot of good info I've seen while lurking. Anyway, I need to buy a new deer rifle.

A little background, I bowhunted for decades, shot a little black powder and rifle a few times at deer. My shoulders are shot and I've lost all my bowhunting land, so it will be rifle from here on out. Shots are typically 50-300 yards. I've shot 30-06, .270, and .243 over the years (my Dad's guns) and an 8mm Mauser that was my grandfathers (which I inherited). The 8mm is pretty much a no-go for accuracy at this point being 80+ years old and 2" groups at 100 yards with any ammo I can run through it. So, I need to buy my FIRST deer rifle. My shoulders really can't take the recoil of a 270/30-06 anymore, so I'm looking for something that will have less recoil but still good terminal ballistics. I've been looking at the 6.5 Creedmoor due to its low recoil. I like the idea that I could use it for target shooting at longer distances as well and not have to quit after 6 shots due to pain. I've thought about the .243 as well, but I've seen too many deer lost over the years due to a lack of a blood trail, which is the main concern I have with the 6.5 CM too.

The two rifles at least in 6.5 CM I'm looking at are the X-Bolt HC with brake and the Tikka T3X Lite with a brake. I would only be using the brake for target shooting most likely anyway due to the noise. One thing I can't seem to get a good answer on is if the X-Bolt HC with the brake (Cabela's) is an 18" or 22" barrel and is the twist 1:7 or 1:8. I get different answers from two stores and Browning. Obviously I'll be handling them or others before deciding.

So if anyone has any recommendations I'd appreciate it.


Edit: should put a max $$$ at $1300 and would like thread barrel for a brake to target shoot.

I would fret not about a 243 or the 6.5

My son has a 243, shoots the 105 Amax and over 4 deer, the cumulative tracking distance is less than 30 yards. Combined for all of them. I don't expect different results this year. Good bullet in good places and you're done.

Maser?

Sounds like you have a good handle on it. Anything in the .24-.26 caliber range generating 2500+fps will serve your needs well. I personally would expand those parameters quite a bit but you seem focused there.

As for accuracy, don't turn your nose up at 2moa. Super accuracy is the goal/dream of everyone here (me included) but truth be told a 2" gun will kill stuff all day long (and well into the night😁).

Same experience here. Ditto with a 270, 130 Sierra at 2600.

I’d lean towards the 6.5, not because of any issue with the .243 and killing power, but because the 6.5 is pretty much available across the board now and also because besides a bit more flexibility, it offers significantly longer barrel life and none of the well-known quirks that can afflict the .243 after some barrel erosion develops. If you only plan on shooting it to sight in and hunt, then forget that last bit.

A 7-08, if you can find one, is a fine choice as well.

Tikka t3 or a Bergara b14 in 6.5 CM/7/08 would get my vote.

Howa 1500 or Winchester XPR in 243. Either can be had for $500ish if you look around online.

I'm a big fan of Browning A Bolt rifles, but don't have any experience with the X Bolt. I like the ergonomics of the Browning (palm swell and safety where God intended it to be are among my favorites) and all of mine have been quite accurate. Brownings tend to have a love-or-hate relationship with members here, so you'll likely hear some differing opinions on them. You didn't mention where you would be hunting, but it seems like people have issues with them in more extreme climate conditions. I've never had a single issue, but I've only used them in Missouri.

You might check out the Steyr Pro Hunter. I bought one on a whim several years ago in 7-08 and really like the rifle. Mine is quite accurate and God smiled on the location of its three-position safety once again. Mine is the original Pro Hunter and I don't have any experience with the current Pro Hunter II, but I'll bet it's a good rifle as well and they have threaded barrels so you can add a brake. I don't believe that you can get one in a Creedmoor, but the .243 is an option, along with the 7-08 and a couple of others. Personally, I'd go 7-08 and never look back.

2 MOA isn't super terrible. But the thing kicks like a mule. Worse than any 30-06 I've ever shot. I've shot the downloaded US ammo and some of the European ammo (that has ballistics more like an 30-06) with no luck either way. Years ago it shot much better groups, but it has had an untold amount of ammo ran through it since 1945 or so. And it weighs about 50 lbs

Really the recoil is the major thing. But out here on the plains of Kansas a 300 yard shot is not uncommon.

This especially the Tikka in 7-08.....

Never having shot a 7-08, what’s the recoil like as compared to say, a .270? I’ve never had the opportunity to shoot a 7-08, 6.5CM, or a .308.

In an 8lb rifle, a 140gr bullet at 2,850 using 45gr of powder produces about 15lbs of recoil (7mm-08). Moving to a 140gr .270win load at 3,000 using 57gr of powder is about 20lbs of recoil. These are approximations of typical loads.

The 7-08 is a pussy cat

The 6.5 Creed or 7mm-08 would be great in a stainless Tikka

I never noticed much difference in recoil between a 6.5 and a 708. But you can also install a nitro pad or at least a 1" kick eez and drastically reduce what you feel from either.

My family has killed a good many deer with a .243 Winchester pushing a 95gr Nosler partition. Recoil in an 8lb rifle is close to non-existent...

Especially with 120 bullets.

A 7-08 pushing 120 TTSXs is a soft shooter and will kill anything in the lower 48.

Winchester M70 Featherweight would be a great option. Even with some excellent optics it will come in at, or under, budget.

I have no doubt the .243 can do the job and recoil is practically nil. I’ve just had some iffy experiences having to track deer for others even on good shots. Think 200 yard plus, standing in 3’ tall thick CRP grass. If they don’t bleed good or drop right there it’s easy to lose them. Practically non-existent blood trails due to no pass through. How are they out to 300 or so yards? I know that’s a pretty common range where I hunt.

I'm not really a huge fan of the 243Win for a dedicated deer rifle, but I'll admit that the 95gr Partition was rather effective when I used it as a kid.

If you want fairly reliable blood trails without a lot of recoil, I'd lean toward a 6.5mm at the bottom end. I don't mind a plain 6.5mm cup/core in the 130-140gr range or a 140-145 in the 7mm-08. Generally had pretty decent tracking results, on average. Some will just stump you at times, even with a solid hit when using a 7mmRM, 30-06, etc. There are no guarantees, but there are trends....

I took my Steyr 7-08 to Montana last year for an antelope & mule deer hunt. I killed two mule deer at roughly 100 & 200 yards and an antelope at a hair over 300 yards. Total combined distance traveled for all three after being hit did not exceed 30 yards.

With regard to recoil, I find that the fit and stock design of a particular rifle make a big difference. The 7-08 is quite mild in general and even more so in the Steyr, for me.

Hard to argue against the 6.5 CM. Great cartridge design. Great components available and great choices in loaded ammo are easily found. Light recoil, most any factory rifle can be found chambered in it.

Over the last several years I've begun to consider it the "perfect" round for deer.....and I've no prejudice hunting deer with bigger or smaller rounds...the 6.5 CM is just Goldilocks.

Has your husband given you permission to buy a new rifle?

I appreciate everyone's input and experience! I'll admit I'm a bit prejudice against the .243 from my past experience, but I will not rule it out as I may find that the gun I pick up fits me perfect. Right now I'm leaning toward the 7-08 and 6.5 CM.

8SNAKE, I'll take a look at that Steyr and see if anyone has one near me. That's a big problem as well. I live in SW KS and there just isn't a lot of selection in stock near me. Wichita is the closest real town with any number on the rack, and then you're looking at Cabelas and Academy mostly. A few other mom-n-pop stores, but they mainly have the AR type stuff with bolt actions sprinkled in here and there in my experience.

If I was looking for a new rifle strictly for deer and for someone with some recoil sensitivity, I would look at something in .24 to .26 caliber. For someone that is not a handloader, I would look at a .243, 6 mm Rem, .260 Rem, 7 mm 08, or a 6.5 Creedmore (which is basically a .22-250 Improved and necked out to 6.5 mm).

Personally, I would buy a bolt action rifle with a good 1" recoil pad and put a Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x scope on it.

When you are looking for the rifle, ask about the availability of ammo.

Just look in the store and buy from Grice or ECAA. Pretty easy to get almost anything as long as you have a local FFL.

As for blood, I don't think 243 vs 264 matters. Worst trail I've ever had was a 6.5cm (Interbond through heart and lung) at 65 yards. 50 yard death run and zero blood until it hemorraged everything. All I found at impact site was a shard of rib bone blown out the exit hole. Was lucky to find the deer in ultra thick South Texas thorn.

I have a 7-08, it's never seen a factory round because I can't remember ever seeing one on the shelf. I love it - absolutely believe it's one killing SOB that just seems to punch well above its weight but I'm loathe to recommend it to anyone who doesn't reload.

I own a T3x Compact & Superlite in 6.5 Creed. I have not killed anything with either rifle yet but have little doubt that with a 127LRX would handle what you’re looking for and given the 6.5’s ability to shoot heavier bullets than a .243 takes it up a notch.

As far as shooting, the Tikkas are so easy to shoot accurately it’s almost boring.

https://ammoseek.com/ammo/7mm-08-remington

Doesn't seem to be an issue?

https://www.steyr-arms.com/us/i-want-steyr

Looks like the closest Steyr dealers to you are either Colorado Springs or Lyndon, KS. You might find a used one closer, but they're not the most common rifles out there. If it was earlier in the year and I was headed your way in search of prairie dogs, I'd bring mine along and let you test drive it.

If it shoots 2" at 400 yards, it's almost good enough. 2 MOA at that distance: Hell no!!! OP, add 7mm08 to your list. It does not recoil very much. I'd go with Tikka, if you are looking for a no bs rifle..

Don't see much love for the .260Rem anymore. Used to think it had all the right stuff. Is the 6.5CM that much better?

It’s not that much better, just available.

Ah, I see.

Had one in a Sako stainless laminate. Recoil was extremely light.

She has 🤣

I shot heavy longbows and recurves for a long time (don’t need no training wheels). More than about 45 lbs and it starts to separate. Along with several car wrecks and some rotator cuff injuries it just damn painful to shoot anything remotely manly. Had to down grade to a 20 gauge for bird season.

I feel like a traitor to the selfbow community having to go to a rifle.

A Tikka compact in 6.5 Creedmoor would be a handy s.o.b. I think.



I went with a stainless t3x in 7mm08. Light, handy, very accurate. If mine ran off today I’d buy the exact same rifle tomorrow.

Everyone I know that has an X bolt Creed loves them. I have one. It’s a tack driver. Bought it from a member on here. Shoot the reduced Recoil HSM 140 grains. You will not be disappointed in accuracy, recoil, or wound channel.

My daughter shot a buck at 100 yards roughly and hit him square in the lower shoulders….bullet stayed together and passed through both shoulders and exited. The wound channel was very impressive to say the least.

For your listed budget and braked don’t fool around with with the small bores go all out 16.5-18inch 308 threaded model 7 think me later 😉

No experience at 300 yards here in my AO. Keep in mind, regardless of chambering, "the bullet" has a good bit of bearing on exit wounds, blood trails, etc. I am switching from 130gr Nosler Accubonds to 130gr Nosler Ballistic tips this year in my .270 Win. Reason is I have never had a "bang flop" with the .270 and 130gr Accubonds. At 100 yards, the NAB's tend to pencil through a KY Whitetail. With minimal blood trail. Sample of ~6. They all died. But, zero fell over dead like they do with the Partition out of a .243. Go figure. I am hoping that the 130gr NBT's will open up faster in the deer. I also have some 130gr Partitions loaded up. If I have the opportunity, I may do some side by side comparisons...

Absolutely!

^^^ THIS^^^

Have killed deer with both, DRT. 7mm-08 120 TTSXs 6.5 Creed 130gr ELD-M's The Tikka is an excellent choice. It will not disappoint.

A quick look and a lot of the recommended rounds with TTSX or Accubonds are pretty expensive and scattered availability. Although I’d lean toward the 7-08 if I ever wanted to hunt anything bigger than deer, I don’t reload so the factory ammo a lot of folks recommend could get pricey to shoot quick. Maybe I’m overthinking and not looking in the right place.

I have a 6mm CM that might interest you.

I get the idea Blooze don't reload and can't find a gun local, more than likely have to order it and it's allready hunting season. 7-08 pimps here keep ignoring the fact that local supply of factory 7-08 ammo sucks, just hit and miss to find it even on the internet. When you do you need to be smart enough to buy a case. Ammo availibility points to cartridges his shoulder won't handle and the 6.5 Creed. Seems like a no brainer to me. My Browning HC has a 27.5" barrel with the brake or 25.5" without, you looking at a compact short stocked gun ? OR WHAT?..MB

6.5 Creedmoor and 7-08 are fantastic choices with the nod going to the 6.5 Creedmoor due to factory ammo availability (assuming you're buying and not reloading).

https://ammoseek.com/ammo/7mm-08-remington

Took me all of 30 seconds to find 74 available options online?

https://ammoseek.com/ammo/6.5mm-creedmoor

Yes....but in comparison, doing the same for 6.5 CM shows:

"Search Showing 1-100 of hundreds"

How many of those are accurate, consistent, reliable hunting loads from 50-300 yards? No being a Smart@@s, rifle hunting for deer is relatively new for me personally so I'm not familiar with hunting ammo.



I do not reload. I live in a small town of 600 people, with 20 towns all around me of 600 people. There is no choice out here on the shelves for ammo and guns, unless you consider Walmart a real choice (which is 25 miles away).

So Ammo will most likely be online as I do for my pistol rounds. I won't order a rifle online unless I've at least picked it up first. That means I drive 3 hours to Wichita, or 5 1/2 to Kansas City for any real selection.

I'm looking for a 22-24" barrel, not too expensive ammo ($30-40/Bx would be good), threaded muzzle for a brake as I'd like to target shoot with it occasionally without suffering for a week afterwards, and obviously low recoil as I'm old and broken. This will be a one and done purchase. I have other hobbies that suck more of my money. Hunting season for rifle isn't until Nov 30th here.

Agree completely, but that wasn't my point. Others have said that 7-08 is difficult to find and I simply wanted to show options.

That's a difficult question to answer because a lot will depend on the particular rifle/ammo combination. Whatever rifle and cartridge you decide on, I would recommend buying several varieties of ammo to try in your gun of choice. Some will stand out above the rest in most cases.

Blooze,

It can be really easy to get lost in the weeds on this forum when debating cartridges and rifles. In my opinion, fretting over the choice between 6.5 Creed and 7-08 is largely mental masturbation for your intended purposes. I can't imagine a scenario where one would outshine the other in a meaningful way on Kansas whitetails. I've killed Missouri whitetails with my 7-08 and .260 Remington (not a Creed, but veeeeeery similar). The 7-08 seems to hit a little harder, but the end results have been exactly the same for both. You can't go wrong either way, so I'd pick a rifle first and then choose an available cartridge from there.

If you have a good rifle then the ammunition would have to be pretty bad not to make the grade for the stated purpose.

Since you're probably not a hand loader I'd pick the 6.5 CM. You'll be able to buy ammo anywhere and it's not a hard recoiling rifle at all.

I sure as hell wouldn't rule out the .243 though.

Saturday I zeroed my 243 for a 95 grain Partition on top of a crisp load of IMR4451. I'd like to see the deer I wouldn't pop with that combination.

I agree. It seems like most ammo made these days is up to the task and rifles being made now are more accurate than ever. My suggestion was for a Tikka, as those seem to be very accurate right out of the box, without much fooling with them. The op says he's new to deer hunting, doesn't want to pay very much for ammo and doesn't want a sore shoulder after shooting. He's also mentioned that he's old. Well, not to discourage anyone, but if you are new to the sport it's going to take some practice. You are going to need to burn up some ammo to familiarize yourself with the rifle. I highly suggest not putting a brake on an otherwise excellent rifle: The reason I suggest a 6.5 CM or 7mm08. No need for a loud azzed brake on either of those. Starting out this late in the game may be a challenge. Join a club where you can get some practice in under your belt before you take said rifle out in the field. YOU (the OP) owe that to the animal you are hunting. For most of us here, we can take most any off the shelf rifle out in the field with factory ammo of our choosing and make a 300 yard money shot. A beginner? Probably not.. Good luck with it, but remember practice is what makes perfect and that practice is going to cost a little money. Don't be a tight wad..

I wouldn't overlook a 243. Great suggestion there.. Very easy on the shoulder and all of the ones I've had were extremely accurate. I used to load 95gr partitions in mine.. Shot a lot of ballistic tips for practice too.

I'm not new to deer hunting (bow hunted for 30+ years, mostly with trad equipment), just hunting with a rifle. I've shot plenty of rifles over the years, just not deer hunting. Used to hunt coyotes all the time with a .270 when I could borrow my Dad's because I lived nearby. I've only ever had the 8mm Mauser as my own because I enjoyed bowhunting more. I used the 8mm several years ago to deer hunt and decided it grouped lousy at this point in it's career and kicked too dang hard. All the people I hunt with all use a 30-06, .270, .338, etc. during rifle season while I just tag along for moral support. Other than the .243 I just wasn't sure about anything else out there that was low recoil. I don't even know anyone that has a .308 or 7-08, other than my uncle who strictly punches paper. Fortunately, or unfortunately, the days of bowhunting out in this part of the country has become too expensive and I'm forced to go rifle if I want to hunt family ground. I know all about hobbies costing money though(guitars, hi-fi, etc...).

The only gun club(s) around me are for clays. No rifle ranges anymore within at least an hours drive. Easier just to go practice on some of our pasture ground.

We’re fortunate to have some family ground, but most folks I know have stopped deer hunting due to the cost. Locals can’t compete with out of state folks and outfitters on leases.

It's a forty mile trip to my rifle range.

An hours drive here is 70 miles. We have some pasture ground with a fairly deep draw and a pond dam for a backstop that I can shoot to at least 250 yards about 20 minutes from home.

Don't think so Blooze, you've nailed it the damn Barnes stuff and Nosler ammo is gold plated price wise. I've shot the Hornady American Whitetail Hunter ammo in the 6.5 129gr sp load and the 139 gr sp load in the 7-08, they are both excellent in the $25/box range. Nail the ammo, buy the gun, scopes are everywhere. If you jack around buying a box here or there to find the most accuracy you can bet your last dollar it will be gone when go back for more. None of it will be really bad. Tell you something else damn few cartridges and loads will do" dead right there" unless head shot, cns, or spined. Shot nice 4x5 out in a CRP at 300 yds with my 300 win mag shooting 165 horn SP's at 3000fps+ it was a good shot behind the shoulder and down he went. I never took my eyes off the spot carefully noting other clumps of a red colored weed next to where I shot. It still took awhile to find him . I like to dbl lung them but there are times it is damn smart to break them down on the spot...mb

Thanks for clarifying. So you have some experience, that is great. That helps a lot. So, there are a lot of rifle "loonies" here and we have used a lot of different cartridges on deer and elk. Last year I used a 7mm08 on my little bull elk. Worked great, but I was using a 140TTSX Barnes bullet. It penetrated thru and thru, no problems there. Spike bull dropped on the spot. That Tikka is also a sweet heart to shoot. It actually has less perceived recoil than my Tikka superlite 6.5 Creedmoor for some reason. Neither rifle recoils excessively hard though. Now your question about factory ammo and factory rifles had me thinking about the last time I used factory ammo. That was recently with a new/used rifle, only because the ammo was given to me by the shop owner when I bought the rifle. He's a damn good guy. Anyway after fine tuning the rifle a bit (glass bedding, freefloating the barrel and trigger work, because its a model 70 and not a Tikka) this is how it did:

100 yards:


200 yards:


300 yards:


400 yards:


Now, the conditions were too windy. Way too windy in fact. But all shots would have equated to dead deer. My 6.5 creedmoor precision rifles wouldn't have done much better to be honest. But the shop owner wanted me to tell him how the rifle shot and I was in a hurry to shoot it after the fine tuning. Here's the rifle:


The box of factory ammo that was given to me when I bought the rifle:


Keeping in mind I don't pay that for any ammo!!!! I handload unless I get ammo given to me like in this case. So, if you count bullet holes, you realize I only had 8 rounds to get the new scope dialed in as well. That is what most new rifles like Tikka, Sako, Savage, Thompson Center, Christensen Arms etc. etc are capable of these days. Most older rifles (with proper work) can also do this. The last 7 rifles I've bought in the last 4 or 5 months are proof of that.. Good luck with your search and decision..

BSA,

Did you tune the BOSS on that rifle at all? I have an A Bolt in .300 Win Mag with the BOSS and can tune it in to whatever ammo I'm using to get some pretty fantastic accuracy for a factory rifle that is probably 20 years old.

BSA, nice! What do you consider too windy? Here the average wind speed is 15-17 mph according to NOAA. 20-30 mph is pretty common. Very seldom is it below 10 mph.

Nah, that was before I researched the BOSS. Just wanted to shoot it and see how it did. At the time I only had that box of factory ammo. I later loaded up some other ammo, after getting brass and dies. Beretzs and some others sent me some info on how to tune the BOSS. Seems pretty interesting, but I still have not messed with it. It seems like I fix them up, shoot them for a little bit to make sure they are acceptable and then move on to the next one. On that day the winds were not too horrible, but gusting to about 15 mph.. That's enough to ruin groups and not get a good representation of what a rifle is capable of..

I'd say 15-17 is "too windy" for checking the accuracy of a rifle/scope combo like this at 400 yards. Now when I'm shooting comp with my 6.5 Creedmoor Tikka CTR, I don't mind higher winds because I'm shooting against other humans where they may not be able to read the wind as well. That's where you are making the rifle do what you want it to do, regardless of conditions. In those events I have better equipment and scopes (ATACR 7-35X56, SHV's and NXS's) that help tremendously. I was shooting one of my 300WBY's the other day with the same type of scope as the 7mm rem mag with boss, and I was wishing I had my ATACR on top of that rifle!! However, Shooting at 3-400 does not require that type of optic, it sure doesn't hurt either. The cheap $350 Burris scopes I use on these rifles work well enough. I use them on my AR's as well:


From 2 days ago when I was shooting at the 400 yard range^^

I really think this is putting the cart before the horse. If Blooze just randomly selects some ammo and stocks up on it, he could end up with something that his rifle groups into 1.5" at 100 yards (as an example). That might be fine for some, but I damn sure wouldn't take that type of performance out to 300 yards, which OP stated was within his typical shooting range. I would MUCH rather buy a couple boxes of several varieties of ammo to test so that I can get optimal performance out of my chosen rifle. In the unlikely event that the best ammo suddenly becomes unavailable, the first two boxes should be more than enough to get through some test groups and a hunting season. Very minimal downside and a whole lot more upside to going that route. Maybe the OP gets lucky and picks out a winner on his first try, but why take the chance? Ammo isn't that expensive, but making a chitty shot on a deer is very painful to me. Doubly so if I try to shortcut myself into a situation that causes it. Blooze also potentially limits his rifle choices if he nails down the ammo first.

I think you'll be pretty impressed if you decide to play around with the BOSS tuning. I'm sure you are probably aware, but Browning and Winchester have recommended starting points to try for various cartridges and bullet weights. I've found them to be pretty helpful.

https://www.browning.com/support/faq/boss-sweet-spot.html

https://www.winchesterguns.com/support/faq/boss-sweet-spot-settings.html

Yes, I am aware. When Beretzs and others sent me the info, I turned it to where it suggested a 160gr bullet weight should be, since I plan on shooting more 162 ELDX bullets through it. The rifle shoots pretty good and I'm sure a load can be dialed right in to a real sweet spot. Possibly even less than 1/2" for 3 shots? I was always a naysayer about the BOSS, as I didn't like the way they look but this one has grown on me. I really don't mind it and it isn't that much noisier than my other 7mm rem mag. I do notice the recoil is less too. Very easy to shoot off the bench. I guess that is why the OP wants a brake on his rifle. On a magnum cartridge, I can see its merits, but on a standard cartridge like a 6.5 creedmoor or 7mm08, I think I'd just use it without a brake. They are quite manageable.

If your rifle is anything like mine, putting three shots under 1/2" should be easy when you find the sweet spot. I've been able to put three into a nickel-sized group.

A nickle is only .750". The rifle does that now. You have me interested in taking this load:


... and messing with the BOSS. I'm sure you are right. The group size would probably shrink. The 7mm rem mag I bought after that stainless classic shoots that load like this:


Another great model 70..^^ After a little work of course.. However, I'm thinking about a Remington 721 I saw the other day. The damn thing is eating at me. Chambered in 270 Winchester and only $425... I got the feeling that the thing is scary accurate and a damn good deal to boot... I got the same feeling with the brown painted stock 7mm rem mag above..

Yep, I just want the option of the brake for shooting at the bench. I'd most likely remove it for hunting. If I get one already threaded at least I have the option.

Again, I appreciate all the info and y'all have given me lots to think about.

Good luck Blooze. I hope you find just the right one. There are a lot of good rifles out there.

Recently picked up a Bergar .243 that’s super accurate, well made, nice looking gun. Not the cheapest, but not expensive either. Virtually no felt recoil, Highly recommend.

hikerbum, which model?

Sorry, my memory let me down on that one. I went back and looked. It managed to put five shots into a dime and I stopped the tuning at that point. No clue if it would have tightened up any more, but I didn't see much point since it's a hunting rifle.

Now that is better and a hell of a good "hunting" rifle right there.

Did it with Core-Lokts, no less. I was still in college at the time.

Never met anybody who could get honest 1/2" groups in field positions. So unless your hunting your deer from a benchrest you might mend your thinking. For the last 50 years I've hunted and shot a 150+ big game animals only a small % of those guns would shoot under an 1" most were 1.5" capable which didn't stop me from shooting and killing all them animals. Most half inch shooters are only able to do that on the internet. Wasn't until the internet that most of us didn't know how inaccurate our guns are according to someone else. All our dead animals in the freezer and the septic tank gonna rise up and go back to living? Just because it don't bother you to drop large amounts of cash on all the different loads out there to get a 1/4" tighter group don't mean Blooze does. Speaking of which Blooze was a primitive archer for many years, I am betting he has enough ethics to know when to pass on a shot. Keep your lofty ideals to yourself. There yours to live by but don't shove them down everyone else's throat...mb

My opinions are exactly that. Blooze asked for them and I offered mine up. If you're cool lobbing lead from a 1.5 MOA rifle at game animals 300 yards away, that's your call. In MY OPINION, it's unethical and I didn't need the interwebs to tell me not to take shots that I couldn't make consistently during practice. God blessed me with enough common sense to figure that out all on my own. I went to Montana last year and stacked two bullets inside 1/2" at 200 yards to verify my rifle's zero from a field position, so it can be done. Don't give two chits if you believe me or not.

Blooze is looking at rifles that run north of $1k, so I highly doubt another Franklin or two in ammo is going to be a deal-breaker. He can use all of the ammo for practice anyway, so it's not like the money is getting flushed down the toilet. I'm not shoving anything down anyone's throat, either. Simply offering my perspectives, based on my personal experiences that have proven effective for me. You do you, however chitty I might think it sounds.

Now I really need to mess with that damn BOSS!!!!

If I can get 1” I’ll be happy. When I was bow hunting the last 10 years or so it was about how close I could get. 10 yards off the ground was my goal. No pop up blinds or anything, usually just backed up into a cedar tree or something. I did the wheelie bow shoot at 50 yard thing and it was very unsatisfying after a while. With my 8mm and it’s large groups I limited myself to 150 yards. Shot my last buck with it at about 75. My comfort zone would be about 200 yards at the moment, but I’d like a gun that’ll do 300 for hunting once I get the practice in and feel more confident, and farther for bench shooting. Like I said 300 is common, but I can limit myself and get closer by stalking if needed. I want the capability for accuracy at long distance should I work my way in that direction, I’m just a wuss at this point. After I sighted in the 8mm several years ago 4 months before season I shot about a box worth of different ammo. Took my shoulder a good 1-2 weeks to quit hurting and it was definitely joint pain. I’m not doing that again.

I think you'll like it.

We will see. Beretzs told me the same thing.

You shouldn't have an issue finding an MOA or better rifle/ammo combination to suit your needs. It sounds like you want to do a fair amount of shooting with your new rifle, so in my opinion it makes sense to figure out what that gun likes to maximize your effectiveness. Apparently, others disagree. That's the beauty of forums like this. You get many different perspectives. Some just come a little more prickly than others.

I'll be curious to see how yours does if you end up tinkering with it.

Listed for sale in the classifieds, in case anyone is hungry for a LIKE NEW 243 Winchester...


https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...s/17644152/howa-1500-in-243#Post17644152

You mean like this?

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...s/17644152/howa-1500-in-243#Post17644152

All the advice given seems sound. I doubt there is a better cartridge to meet your criteria than the 6.5 Creed. You just need to get your hands on some rifles and pick one. Tikka, Howa, Bergara, Winchester M70, Browning X-Bolt, Remington 700…odds are very high they will shoot up to well enough for you (not certain all are available threaded though?). Heck, I’ve even seen BSA show pics of Rugers that shoot well. 😀


This would be a heck of a place to start, in my opinion: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/943361877

Heavier than some, especially Tikka, which is likely good for reducing felt recoil, but…it’s heavier.
It is likely shorter than a Tikka, which is convenient.
Stainless is always a good thing, in my opinion. Cerakote, or any other coating, is NOT a substitute for stainless.
The HS Precision stock is stronger than the composite/plastic stocks from many manufacturers, including the cheaper Howa models.

I agree. They are worth messing with if you're keeping it on the rifle. It will only make a handload that much better..

Check out the EC tuner which to what I see is a modern BOSS.

It'd be tough to whoop a 6.5 CM with the ammo available and the price is usually more than fair. A 308 would be my second choice just for availability. Getting an accurate 6.5 CM is even easier. Can't swing a dead cat without running across a bunch of good ones.

It's not often things come along to make me look smart, so I'll take it and run!

Funny you mention this... was just at the store and swung by the outdoor counter. They've got enough 308 to wage a small war... a couple boxes of 6.5cm and a couple boxes of 30-06 (then 450 bushmaster for reasons unknown). Figured it would be the other way around with 308/6.5.

After several stores and handling a Sauer, Browning, Ruger, and Tikka I ended up with the X-Bolt HC with the Recoil Hawg brake in 6.5 Creedmoor. It was a tossup with the Tikka. The Tikka bolt was slightly smoother and the trigger was slightly better, but I felt like I was reaching pretty hard for the trigger (small hands 🙄). The Ruger American felt pretty rough around the edges and it felt fairly barrel heavy on the front end. The Sauer I felt like I had to crawl up on the thing to get comfortable.

Congrats on the purchase, Blooze. You'll have to let us know how it works out for you.

Congrats. Sounds like you’re well on your way!

Quick follow up. I can start another thread if more appropriate.

Was planning on putting some Talley rings on the X-Bolt. I have a Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40 scope I planned on throwing in there for now. Would the low rings work with that scope? Seems like I read that the lows would work with 40-45mm.

https://www.leupold.com/vx-freedom-3-9x40-duplex-riflescope

Lows should work. Keep us posted on how the rifle works out for you. Congrats on the new rifle!!! I hope its a great shooter for you.. You'll like that 6.5 creedmoor. Most factory creedmoor ammo shoots lights out, so that is a plus.

I think you’ll be very happy with your new rifle. My only suggestion on ammo is to NOT try Remington Core-lokt. My “used” 6.5 CM came with a box of these and it would shoot 4 MOA all day long with that ammo, if I did my part, if I didn’t do my part and when my son shot it. If that was the only ammo I had I would have quickly sold it! It was 20 rounds of once fired brass that I could reload, well, and a little trigger time.

The 6.5 CM is a sweet little cartridge though and in that rifle I think it will be perfect for you.