I re-read Northern Dave's thread on his DIY bedding. It's a good thread. I've done prob 30-40 bedding jobs over the years but I'm still trying to figure out how guys get the nice neat perfect forward edge of the bedding under the first inch or 2 of barrel. I've tried the clay dam, Dremel a perfect edge, Exacto knife, and simply leaving it as is.

How do you all get that perfect forward edge on your bedding jobs?

Also, I know guys that take the action out after 4-5-6 hours before the epoxy cures. The thought being the epoxy is easier to clean up before it fully cures. Won't wedging the action out of the stock prior to the epoxy being cured cause 'slop' in critical aress? I'm thinking the recoil lug especially.

Any other good tips/tricks?

Thanks.

Same question as you. I am a notorious tang and lug bedder, but I do not get the perfect front edge under the barrel. It hasn't hurt anything that I know of, but I'd still like to know. Also tried the same tricks as you Bill, clay dam, dremel, drywall knife, etc

For the forward edge, I've had good luck getting a sharp line using the clay dam. On the edges around the chamber/near the lug, I've found that using more epoxy works better (and obviously having to clear up what overflows). Too little leaves pock holes, bubbles, or wavy edges.

Yah same. I use a clay dam and then clean it up with a Dremel wheel. Never quite figured out the perfect way.

All ancient Chinese secrets..

I don’t do my own glass bedding. The dozen or so that I have glass bedded do not have a perfect edge in front of the recoil lug. I’m completely fine with that.

Darn nice bedding jobs there BSA! I’d hire you in a “New York Second” to do my future bedding jobs! 👍 memtb

The first one I bedded I just left it go ahead, then cleaned it up later. Since then I've used dams.

I use modeling clay dams, even used wood putty with mineral oil mixed in to make it way more pliable, it all works. I use a thin razor type blade like either an exacto knife or 1 of the thin replacement blades that come with the Havalon I have to make the precise edge on my dam.

Requires obviously that you put the barreled action in first to squeeze out the clay, then remove the action and trim the dam where you want it. I put a straight edge piece of masking tape on each side of the forearm where I've pre-determined I want the bedding to end, then use that as my sight guide when cutting the straight edge across on the dam.

I'm just a do it yourself, work on your own guns type of guy, but even I can make it look like I know what I'm doing using that method.

Those are very nice and what I'm trying to achieve. How do you make that edge like that?

"How do you all get that perfect forward edge on your bedding jobs? "

In the stock where I want the bedding to end,
I place a layer or two down on the stock before coating it with release agent,
then I put a wrap or two (as long as there is clearance) on the barrel that corresponds with the same place.
That way the tape leaves a line in the bedding to follow when I go to remove anything forward of the tape line.
The tape on the stock just makes it easier to remove the unwanted bedding material forward of the tape line.

Beat me to it.

Edit to add. I've used the tape on the barrel to also gauge the thickness of the bedding, hold the action centered in the front, and hold the amount of free float I want. Patience applying the tape perfectly before even thinking about mixing epoxy is the key.

Great tips. Thank you fellas!

Thank you!

I've considered using something attached to the barrel to create the clean edge - but was concerned with epoxy getting under/between the tape. Release agent under the barrel stape should solve that issue.

This is how I do it. Nothing to clean up that amounts to anything on the forward edge. Like pouring concrete into a mold, remove the clay dam after words with a already straight edge, and there's your straight & neat edge of the bedding. Simple and easy by my thinking but there's no wrong way as long as it works.

Use quality masking tape and be neat and tight with it. Tape won't stick to the barrel if you put release agent under the tape and the whole method will fail. De-grease the barrel, apply your tape, THEN coat everything with release agent including the tape.

^filing this; thanks.

Exactly. Remember to use release agent on the tape as well. That way the epoxy does not stick to it.

There you go^^^ Nailed it.

Excellent - thanks all for enlightening me. Learn sumtin' 'very day.

Looks good to me..

That'll work

Nice job.
By the way, I use electrical tap as opposed to masking tape, but both work well.

Rather then a clay dam I use 20moa pipe wrapping tape in the barrel channel to form a crisp edge. Apply where I want bedding to end, coat with release agent and have never had an issue.

So many different ways to skin the cat. Use what works best for you. If it doesn't work perfect the first time, re-do it, try again. I've bedded over 100 rifles, so after you do a few, you start getting the hang of it. Experimentation is key. Remember release agent is your friend, but don't get any on where you want the bedding to stick. Everything should be dry fit, to make sure you are not pulling the action out of the stock too much with your tape job.

I also use electrical tape wrapped around the circumference of the barrel out toward the forend tip, to center the action in the stock. That also helps with getting the proper amount of freefloat. After that, use whatever tape you want. I've used good quality masking tape on the barrel and in the channel, then aluminum ducting tape over that, so you get a smooth finish, if you glass the whole barrel channel. Sometimes that is an option as well.

I also don't tape up the whole damn stock, like I see some guys doing. My smith taught me that trick. Just coat the stock with something like Johnson's paste wax, and you are good to go. The less taping the better, and quicker as well. Being efficient goes a long way with whatever you do in life. Some guys don't get that either...

All the tape and cleanup stuff is the last thing I worry about. Take your time and do good prep work. I've came out good on them and screwed a few up. Use a good release agent. If you think it could get glued, wax it. If you use JB weld, which I think is the best, let it set for an hour before application.

Best advice I can give, and I'm the guy who's glued one solid, use paste wax as release agent. Devcon, jb, not quick, will work like a champ. Wait til you glue on in and it won't pop lol. 🤪 just roll with it.

Anyone have a link to Northern Dave’s bedding post. Did some searching but didn’t find it.

Thanks.

Frank

Sticky?

At the top of this forum section?

Maybe?

Duh! Thanks.

I never do my own bedding jobs. I prefer to pay an expert then I know I'm getting a good job !

Nice Dingo!

Tape the barrel, per above. Pipe tape is nice and smooth.

I've never used paste wax - how is this removed, or is it?

Just tried the clay for fill--what a mess! Think I'll stick to my beeswax.

Nice job on these! I tried bedding under the chamber but didn't keep it straight across and you lose the accuracy and then some you were looking for in the first place, never though of a Dremel tool! Have tried a tape bank to keep the epoxy straight across but not so sure that worked all that well either. Might be it raised the barrel to high. I don't put in the rear tang screw to sit the barrel action in and tape at the fore end to hold the front of the barrel up a bit. Then nothing under the chamber. Put epoxy under and around the recoil lug with couple bits of tape on the front, bottom and sides to relieve any un-needed pressure there. Rifles lift out of the stock easily that way and all seem to shoot well. The rear tang area is pulled down screwing in the front action screw and tape at the front of the barrel keeps the barrel from pulling up on the rear tang. One time, before I started taping in front of the stock barrel channel I did full length bed a rifle in the barrel channel. Rifle shot very very well but for no reason I can think of did I ever try it again! And rifles shoot well enough the way I do it now I'm not about to change what works for me. I might add that to be sure the barrel is floating an the way I don't run a dollar bill under the barrel but do run three layers of typing paper and it must be free all the way. I think if running a dollar bill under from the stock is to keep the stock from bouncing off the stock, going a bit more isn't going to hurt anything. But also I never had a problem with just a dollar bill either.