I first apologize if this info is already on the forum but looked around and couldn't find what I was looking for. My LGS has a new Ruger M77 Hawkeye, wood stock, red pad, blued barrel, in 308. It's discounted to $675. Rifle looks great-classic-and shoulders nicely. How do these stack up against other rifles in the same general price range, sub $1500. I'm currently hunting rifle-less. I figure with the included rings and no need for bases that I would save a good bit.

How is the accuracy, trigger, any known issues?

Thanks.

Pretty general question, which will get you lots of "opinions"...
Ruger's are built stronger than most tanks, and the recievers are definitely harder than anything else out there. While not many will do any aftermarket work on them, some smiths won't work on them(like drilling and tapping the reciever) because they are so hard. Ruger has LONG had very very accurate barrels. Been hammer forging things correctly before the public thought it was cool to do. They are CRF, so if that or the thought of a mauser type extractor gets the juices flowing, it's your bag. The drawback is that they can be one of the lesser smooth both throws. one of mine was rather nasty until I sat and worked it back and forth, smoothed things out; the other one has always been nice. Personally I detest the LC6 triggers, but 98% of the population wouldn't know creep if it slapped them in the face, as long as the pull weight is light. Personally I like the Preditor version better, as it has the same 2-stage adjustable target trigger found in their VT series.
I've been working on ridding myself of all non-Ruger rifles for a while now, personally I like them better than any alternatives. But some people like Vanilla not chocolate, so, no accounting for taste.

Thanks for the detailed response. Was thinking it would be nice with a fixed 6x. How are the included rings?

The rings are strong and the factory setup us a good one. Some rings are a bit rough on the inside where they touch the scope so a little lapping won't hurt. That said I've only ran across one stainless rifle that needed lapping.

Agreed. Not going to find stronger, or simpler. But a bit of a buffing never hurt either.

To get better, IMO, you must go about ten times the asking price - to a full blown custom. It's got a superb CRF action, complete with a blade ejector ala Mauser, terrific trigger, integral scope bases, steel bottom metal, superb safety that actually holds back the striker (not just locking the trigger). Stock has a great shape, feels great in the hands.

Why do you suppose so few of these and MkIIs are listed for sale?

Is there any need to free float the average rifle? Anyone know the action screw torque specs? Think the only thing I would do is add a $100 Timney trigger set at 2.5lb.

No need to add a trigger.

95 inch-lbs ... answered at 1:32 in the following reassembly youtube video by Ruger.

...That's almost farmer tight.

Ruger really wants that front (angled) screw tight.

My 308 Hawkeye gave me good hunting precision (3 rounds in under 1 1/2 inches), and a shockingly pretty piece of Ruger walnut. I bought it second-hand, and it already had a Timney and a Limbsaver on it. Still had the factory pressure point at the forend. Eliminating the up-pressure did not improve precision, so I personally say leave it alone. I strongly dislike Timneys for hunting. Their spring is too light for field use, though it's great for the range. I ended up with Ruger's spring with Timney's shoe. That particular LC6 wasn't a great example, though I've never felt another with the creep it has, so I think it was a one-off issue or something.

Rugers are my favorite field guns. They make good barrels, so they shoot well, and they're ultra-strong, durable, reliable, and safe.

A little moly truck bearing grease here and there slicked up my Predator a lot. It's just a great rifle, if not to everyones' taste because of the very matte finish and veggie pizza lammy stock. I floated it and filed on the mag box a trifle just for fun. It can be a little tricky to get the action screws torqued right so the floorplate works correctly, but once done it works like a champ. Just mounted a Boxer-Stick SS 6x42 scope on mine, which bumped the weight a bit, but it still balances well and the view is awesome.

I need more rifles like I need another winky, but the Predators are pretty compelling. A 6mm CM might push me over the edge.

As far as ordinary Hawkeyes go, it's hard to beat an all-steel CRF action with a one-piece bolt for $600-$750 or so.

Just came back from the range where Daughter #1 and I were shooting out to 600 yards.

All morning long she was killing clay pigeons at will at 200 and 300 yards with her walnut/blue .308 Hawkeye. At 500 her shots were dancing just off the edges of the 6" steel. Later I tried my All Weather .280 Rem Hawkeye. Wasted a pigeon at 300 on the first shot,smacked the 6" steel at 500 in the next and almost centered the steel at 600 with the third. Not bad for a pair of crappy Ruger Hawkeye rifles.

Buy the Hawkeye, you will love it. You may need to bed it and free float the barrel but this rifle is a bargain at $675. You have plenty of mag room and will have room to hit lands with your bullet not to mention the 308 will kill almost everything.

What he^^^^ said. Can't go wrong there.

Sounds like a pretty good deal on a nice rifle and would not hesitate grabbing it. I have two M77's and both solid shooters and are as accurate as most of my other rifles. My M77 Hawkeye in 358 Win is a favorite and is one that I use often for deer and, it has been elk hunting once as well. I do keep the action screws torqued down checking them at least once a year. I recall having to tightening the angled screw on one rifle only once since I've had the rifles. At some point, I may decide to have my rifle M77 V/T bedded and barrel floated but right now, I really don't see a need, since both meet my accuracy expectations. It is hard to go wrong with an proven rifle like the M77 Hawkeye.

If it will make a better deal, I've been looking for a Ruger Hawkeye Walnut stock. I have a new Hawkeye synthetic stock will trade with $50 boot for the walnut takeoff stock if not modified..

PM me if interested.

Thanks,
Geo

Thanks for all of the great info guys. GeoW-that walnut stock looks too good. Why I started looking at it in the first place.

Had to ask.. Thanks!

Nice wood too? What are you waiting for? Wait until you wash all the brown crap off and refinish it.

Peeshooter, what is the brown crap you are referencing?

Haha...I know where that came from.

They are the best real hunting rifle available at a decent price.

Y'all sold me. I just called and put it on hold so it doesn't disappear before I can pick it up later this week. Now the question is which scope? 2.5-8, fixed 6, leupold, Zeiss? Thanks again. -Elijah

Oh, you're going to get lots of opinions on that one. Variables are more prone to failure than fixed, but I sure do like the ability to adjust myself. I hunt where shots are often at rock throwing distances and use the low settings for the wider field of view on a moving target in thick cover with scopes like the 1.5-4.5, 1.75-6, 2-7 or 2.5-8.

some people suggest you spend as much on the scope as on the rifle. Never found that to be necessary for a hunting scope, but my shooting is limited to 600 yards and I've never taken a shot at game over 487.

Most of my scopes are 3-9x with a ballistic drop compensating reticle. Six or seven are Burris Fullfield II scopes. They have good optics and I've yet to break one, yet they have a lifetime warranty and run about $160 online.

Lots of good choices, though. Probably my favorite is my 3.5-10x Leupold with a bdc reticle, purchased used and upgraded to the bdc reticle later.

Im a fan of Zeiss glass and function and the HD5's are on sale in several online locations a 2.5-10 would fit that rifle well. My old tang safety 77 with the Conquest 3-9x40 has been a killing machine for 40 years now and still shoots way under MOA past where I'd shoot at an animal.

But that Leupold 2.5-8 looks very nice on a handsome wood stocked rifle. Lately I've added Meopta into the mix with those 2 for hunting scope choices. Have fun getting that new tool to fit you perfectly.

She's in my back seat now. Went with the Leupold VX3i 3.5-10x40. They didn't have any 2.5-8s and the 3.5-10 was in stock at $399 and I left with it mounted and bore sighted at no charge. (Even though I'll probably mess with it). I'll get some picture up this week. Thanks again.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/galleries/12160322/hawkeye-308

Rifle is posted up in the new image gallery. I do not know how to past the image here.

All you have to do is to right click over the image, select "copy image location" from the drop down menu, then paste in between the image tags [img] [/img] like so:



Nice rifle. You're braver than I am to lean it up against stone like that.

Cool thanks. I wonder if this can be done from an IPhone?

Now I just need to find a bullet for it. Will be chasing white tail and mule deer. Would like something affordable and accurate.

For factory ammo, get Federal Fusion 150 grainers for affordable, accurate, and great performance on deer.

Buying ammo makes angels cry

Speer Hot-Cor

Figured out how to post. Wonder why mine shows up larger?

I don't think so. When you copy and paste from an IPhone this is what you get, I'm not sure what's missing that keeps the photo from showing up.
[img]https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/galleries/12160322/hawkeye-308[/img]

That larger photo was from iPhone. I held on the image until it was the only thing on my screen then hit copy. I used the img brackets and it worked.

Thanks! I did it! Now I just have to remember what I did.....

Great looking rifle and it looks like a great setup. It should serve you well for years. Regarding bullets I would look no farther than the 165 grain hornady interlock. Affordable, consistent, accurate and dependable. If deer are the main target you cant go wrong with the interlocks.

Ever refinish a Ruger stock? They spray brown paint/stain on them to get the uniform brown color.

I have one just like it. I floated the barrel and mounted a vx2 3-9x40. Shoots great, functions great, and never had a problem. Same with tang models or mk11 versions I've owned . Imo, you have a great rifle that will last both your hunting years as well as your childrens.

he only has 2 years left to hunt?

I really like Ruger bolt actions. I bought my first one in 1986, a tang safety 270 Win. Ultra Lite. Still have it. I have a few more now. As far as affordable bolt actions go, there are only two that I would buy right now. Ruger and CZ. I do not on a CZ, but have shot them and handled them and have always been impressed with what they are. I have had a few quality control issues with Ruger guns lately, but they always come through in the long run. Customer service is excellent.

I got a.338 WM Ruger Hawkeye African (matte black, walnut stock, with a ring on the barrel for a sling swivel). It does not have a muzzle brake like the Alaska Guide model. Anyway, cycling the bolt is smooth like butter with no binding anywhere. In fact, I can point the muzzle straight down and let the bolt move forward on its own weight without binding.

I like the stock very much, but didn't want to scratch it. Got a McMillan stock for it with a decelerator recoil pad, for a total LOP of 12-1/2". The scope is a little long, but I still like it, a Leupold 3-9 x 40 VX-R with a #4 reticle and electronic dot in the middle. I will use it for moose hunting this year, but my favorite moose gun has been another .338WM Ruger M77 MK-II stainless steel, topped with a Leupold Vary-X III 2.5-8x. That rifle and scope combination has never failed me in Alaska.

The 7mm RM I bought in 1982 would shoot higher and more to the left the more I shot it. Had it floated and no problems since. In fact, several years ago that rifle printed a 3-shot center-to-center .262" 3-shot group.

Since then I have floated all my bolt rifles with these exceptions:
1. Rifles like my MKII VT that came floated from the factory.
2. Rifles like my Hawkeyes that have synthetic stocks. (Haven't found a need to do so.)

Floating a wood stock is easy:
1. Remove the stock.
2. Sand the barrel channel. I loop sandpaper once around a round cylinder like a Hi-Liter.
3. Test fit the sanded stock to the action and try to slide a dollar bill between the stock and barrel, all the way back to the action.
4. Keep sanding as necessary.
5. Seal the sanded wood with a light coat of polyurethane. I use a rag to do this, no need to clean a brush afterwards.
6. Allow the poly to dry (more or less).
7. Reassemble the stock and action and retest with a dollar bill.

The hardest art on a Ruger is getting rid of the bump at the end of the forearm. It will take most of the sanding effort. Once you've done as many as I have, floating is a 15-20 minute job.

Good luck.