Welcome to the "Kimber Roulette" wheel, I hope you have better luck with Kimber CS than I did....however I picked up a Kimber 8400 select at a LGS lately that looked so good it got me maybe ready to have another spin, so far Im 1 for 2 at the wheel...lol....Hb
I had a brand new Montana that would not even chamber a factory round in it, had to send it back., they "fixed" it but the thing still had issues... But if you listen to everyone here on the fire, they are the "gods" of gun makers... and if anyone thinks otherwise they are stupid when it comes to guns.... Oh... and the 45 that my friend had jammed horribly. Called them, they said they had issues with some of THEIR magazines that came with that gun... but they would not replace them...
Funny thing is all the Kimber lovers here will never admit the problems with so many of the guns they sell that should have never passed quality assurance...
Save time and just get it fixed by a Smith if you can't do it yourself. [bleep] Kimber's customer service. They rival the federal government when it comes to incompetence and lack of accountability.
With Barrett, Tikka, Sauer, etc. these days, I'm not sure who would want to deal with a Kimber unless you have time to screw around rather than shoot...
Ted’s a good buddy of mine. We spun the roulette wheel together. I got the same gun the day before he did. Mine is a shootin’ sumbeech and had little trouble reaching sub MOA. This isn’t Ted’s first rodeo with Kimber. He has had several, most being sub par. He obviously wants to really love Kimbers and has given them way more chances than any company deserves. I’ve owned 3 of them all being great guns. When they get it right, you can’t beat them. It sucks how often they get it wrong though.
I love my new Kimber Hunter but doubt I could recommend one to anybody without the caveat that your new gun may very well suck.
That sucks. I recently purchased 2 montana's, first a 6.5 that works flawlessly and is very accurate.I bought another in 223 that function's as it should. I have had it to the range twice and appears it will shoot fine with the right load. I hope the resolve this issue for you with no hassle's. Karl
Holy fhuqking schit...that's about the funniest thing I've ever seen. Can you make a video,of ALMOST being able to get a spoon inside a coffee cup?!? LAFFIN'!
It'd take less than 10 seconds to fix,if/when armed with an IQ of 13 points or greater and I heartily suggest you send it back for help.
WOW +P++!
Laffin'!
Be sure to include more installments,of things you can't do,as this schit is OFF the fhuqking charts HILARIOUS!
Few things funnier,than Stupid Fhuqkers being outwitted,by something as simplistic,as a gawddamned rifle.
With Barrett, Tikka, Sauer, etc. these days, I'm not sure who would want to deal with a Kimber unless you have time to screw around rather than shoot...
If anybody outside of the Kimber factory does any smithing on one of their guns, any sort of warranty is completely void. Weather it takes 10 seconds or two minutes to fix, he shouldn’t have to...
With Barrett, Tikka, Sauer, etc. these days, I'm not sure who would want to deal with a Kimber unless you have time to screw around rather than shoot...
Holy fhuqking schit...that's about the funniest thing I've ever seen. Can you make a video,of ALMOST being able to get a spoon inside a coffee cup?!? LAFFIN'!
It'd take less than 10 seconds to fix,if/when armed with an IQ of 13 points or greater and I heartily suggest you send it back for help.
WOW +P++!
Laffin'!
Be sure to include more installments,of things you can't do,as this schit is OFF the fhuqking charts HILARIOUS!
Few things funnier,than Stupid Fhuqkers being outwitted,by something as simplistic,as a gawddamned rifle.
EPIC Humor and thanks for the laugh this morning!
Bless your heart.
Larry,
I appreciate that you took some time away from your day to give me some guidance and advice.
Kimber now has an accuracy guarantee. If Ted took this upon himself to fix, which I have no doubt he could, Kimber will no longer honor the accuracy guarantee because it was worked on by someone besides Kimber...
Are you familiar with how to properly tension a claw extractor? It's really easy and wouldn't void your warranty.
The back end of a m98 extractor is basically a flat spring.
Any "tensioning" is done by proper shaping and heat treatment- not by bending or blacksmithing after it's already installed.
This is not one of your used gun rack deals on some rifle they don't even make anymore. Its a brand new rifle straight out of the box.
Why in the hell would you recommend that someone spend THEIR time to do a half assed "fix" on a brand new rifle which also voids the warrantee?.
Kimber created the problem- they should fix it. Period.
If enough of them get sent in for repair their accountants might figure out its cheaper to send out functioning rifles the FIRST time rather pay to fix them a second time. The best way to prevent this crap from happening in the future is to hold the maker accountable for the quality of their wares..Or lack thereof.
Tikka’s are quite possibly the ugliest rifle produced. At least in my opinion. I just can’t stand how they look. That keeps me from owning one but they do seem to have a better track record than Kimber.
Some years ago, I bought a used Kimber 84M in 7mm/08 without doing much research. It was an absolutely beautiful looking rifle that was the worst shooting gun I've ever owned. Factory ammo or handloads, it didn't matter. A good group for that rifle might be a little less than 3 inches, some groups looked like buckshot. I will never own another Kimber. I don't understand why folks pay $1000+ for a rifle that might need to be extensively tweaked to get reasonable accuracy or to work at all.
These threads for dissatisfied kimber owners are surprisingly common on this site. The fraction of sales represented here must be very small compared to their total sales. Despite this small fraction of sales failures from new guns and complaints from customer service are pretty high. I’m sure they are light, ive handled a few, but seems like a headache. Took some tweaking this weekend but I got my ruger American 30-06 to shoot some honest .5 groups. Paid 300 from a fire member, pretty light and handy. Trigger is decent.
Not in the same “class” but I’ve got no concerns whatsoever it will perform. Don’t get me started on my Bergara, even better.
Tikka’s are quite possibly the ugliest rifle produced. At least in my opinion. I just can’t stand how they look. That keeps me from owning one but they do seem to have a better track record than Kimber.
Todd
Really? You think the Kimber Hunter with its cheap azzed molded in trigger guard looks better than a T3x? At least with the Tikka you can be reasonably sure the rifle will function right and shoot MOA or better.....Hb
Tikka’s are quite possibly the ugliest rifle produced. At least in my opinion. I just can’t stand how they look. That keeps me from owning one but they do seem to have a better track record than Kimber.
Todd
They seem to have a better track record LMAO. I'll let you know when I get a stinker Tikka, Sako .
There are a few stinker Tikka's out there. A lot less than Kimber it seems but Kimber does put out flashes of brilliance once in a while. If they were all like the one I drug home the other day, they would be a very top contender for best rifle in the world. And yes, I personally think Tikka's look gross. For some reason I can't stand the look of one.
My Kimber Hunter 6.5 Creed easily hit the sub MOA mark and weighs 6 3/4 pounds scoped, slung and 3 in the mag. It shoots 129 LRAB, 130 VLDH and 143 ELDX close enough to the same point of impact, they can share the same zero. If they were all like this, it would be hard pressed to beat them. I've owned 3 Kimbers and they were all awesome.
129 LRAB on top of 130 Berger VLDH.
Another 129 LRAB group.
It shoots 143 ELDx just as well.
I hope Ted's shoots this good as well.
For the record, I would never recommend a Kimber to somebody without the extreme caveat that your new rifle might very well suck. If people are asking me for a gun that shoots good that is the best bang for the buck, I always send them to the POS Ruger American.
There are a few stinker Tikka's out there. A lot less than Kimber it seems but Kimber does put out flashes of brilliance once in a while. If they were all like the one I drug home the other day, they would be a very top contender for best rifle in the world. And yes, I personally think Tikka's look gross. For some reason I can't stand the look of one.
My Kimber Hunter 6.5 Creed easily hit the sub MOA mark and weighs 6 3/4 pounds scoped, slung and 3 in the mag. It shoots 129 LRAB, 130 VLDH and 143 ELDX close enough to the same point of impact, they can share the same zero. If they were all like this, it would be hard pressed to beat them. I've owned 3 Kimbers and they were all awesome.
129 LRAB on top of 130 Berger VLDH.
Another 129 LRAB group.
It shoots 143 ELDx just as well.
I hope Ted's shoots this good as well.
For the record, I would never recommend a Kimber to somebody without the extreme caveat that your new rifle might very well suck. If people are asking me for a gun that shoots good that is the best bang for the buck, I always send them to the POS Ruger American.
There are a few stinker Tikka's out there. A lot less than Kimber it seems but Kimber does put out flashes of brilliance once in a while. If they were all like the one I drug home the other day, they would be a very top contender for best rifle in the world. And yes, I personally think Tikka's look gross. For some reason I can't stand the look of one.
My Kimber Hunter 6.5 Creed easily hit the sub MOA mark and weighs 6 3/4 pounds scoped, slung and 3 in the mag. It shoots 129 LRAB, 130 VLDH and 143 ELDX close enough to the same point of impact, they can share the same zero. If they were all like this, it would be hard pressed to beat them. I've owned 3 Kimbers and they were all awesome.
129 LRAB on top of 130 Berger VLDH.
Another 129 LRAB group.
It shoots 143 ELDx just as well.
I hope Ted's shoots this good as well.
For the record, I would never recommend a Kimber to somebody without the extreme caveat that your new rifle might very well suck. If people are asking me for a gun that shoots good that is the best bang for the buck, I always send them to the POS Ruger American.
Todd
Pretty happy with my T3 30-06 shooting old school 150 grain Sierra Gamekings. Damn those Tikkas are ugly .370 is outside to outside of the group. I was shooting way beyond my paygrade.
Kimber Rifles are a poster child for a almost flawless design executed poorly with customer service that absolutely fails....
I would hazard a guess that 50% of their buyers are satisfied if they hit a pie plate st 100yds.
These comments come from first hand experience.
Execution is all in the details and they wouldn't know what that word means. They have burned me with 84m's and not real impressed with their 1911's either.
Tiny groups are impressive. I love them as much as the next guy and have a few rifles that will hold their own with your Tikka. Little groups mean very little in the big game hunting woods. 3 shots MOA at 100 is plenty good for any hunting purposes...
I could really care less what my T3X looks like when it shoots like this. . Sight in at 100 yards, break out the magnetospeed, plug it in, let the LRHS eat.........when the wind doesn't blow it's really cheating. It will hold .5MOA or better out to 500 (as far as I can shoot at local range) with numerous loads and bullets.
Factory ammo on the right, my first reloading effort with 129g LRAB's and IMR4451. the 130AB's shot almost exactly the same with 43g H4350, but 1" higher.
I’m glad you guys like your Tikka’s.. you all seem like you have a complex or something to prove with owning one. I didn’t call your mother ugly, just your gun. I’ve pretty well admitted several times they (Tikka) are more accurate out of the box. Ted is pretty well admitting he bought a POS.. why would he go out of his way to make this post if he wasn’t dissapointed? Of course accurate rifles matter. They need to be accurate enough to get the job done. The Ruger American 6.5 Creed I traded for this Kimber shot little bitty groups all day long. The damn thing was ugly, heavy at 11 pounds scoped, and felt cheap. It shot awesome but I couldn’t like it. I don’t need a gun to shoot 1/4” groups at 100 yards to kill big game animals at 400 yards and in.
I thought Barnes bullet shooters were easy to offend but you Tikka owners win that trophy big time...
I’m glad you guys like your Tikka’s.. you all seem like you have a complex or something to prove with owning one. I didn’t call your mother ugly, just your gun. I’ve pretty well admitted several times they (Tikka) are more accurate out of the box. Ted is pretty well admitting he bought a POS.. why would he go out of his way to make this post if he wasn’t dissapointed? Of course accurate rifles matter. They need to be accurate enough to get the job done. The Ruger American 6.5 Creed I traded for this Kimber shot little bitty groups all day long. The damn thing was ugly, heavy at 11 pounds scoped, and felt cheap. It shot awesome but I couldn’t like it. I don’t need a gun to shoot 1/4” groups at 100 yards to kill big game animals at 400 yards and in.
I thought Barnes bullet shooters were easy to offend but you Tikka owners win that trophy big time...
I’m glad you guys like your Tikka’s.. you all seem like you have a complex or something to prove with owning one. I didn’t call your mother ugly, just your gun. I’ve pretty well admitted several times they (Tikka) are more accurate out of the box. Ted is pretty well admitting he bought a POS.. why would he go out of his way to make this post if he wasn’t dissapointed? Of course accurate rifles matter. They need to be accurate enough to get the job done. The Ruger American 6.5 Creed I traded for this Kimber shot little bitty groups all day long. The damn thing was ugly, heavy at 11 pounds scoped, and felt cheap. It shot awesome but I couldn’t like it. I don’t need a gun to shoot 1/4” groups at 100 yards to kill big game animals at 400 yards and in.
I thought Barnes bullet shooters were easy to offend but you Tikka owners win that trophy big time...
Todd
I really don't think you have offended anyone. Please don't confuse my smart azz replies to your silly azz comments as being offended. I hope you have a great day.
If I were contemplating a Kimber these last few post would have ended that. Those Kimber groups, to most people, would be unsatisfactory . Accuracy with my T3 is on the line with those shown from the T3's. That's from my $350.00 second hand rifle.
Wow! some very nice groups JG and Elk hunter, and that is also some excellent shooting as not everyone is capable of such tiny groups even if the particular rifle is .....My T3x Superlites in .300 Win will shoot factory Barnes Vortex 165gr loads into 1/2" to 3/4" groups @100 yds (if I do My part that is 😁😁) ......Hb
That Kimber will have bad mojo even when it's "fixed". New "fixed" rifle? Or is that just a "tweak"? It'll get in your head and always be the rifle when you miss.....bad juju.
If I were contemplating a Kimber these last few post would have ended that. Those Kimber groups, to most people, would be unsatisfactory . Accuracy with my T3 is on the line with those shown from the T3's. That's from my $350.00 second hand rifle.
Sub MOA from 3 different loads with a rifle that weighs almost a pound less than those fugly Tikkas is hardly “unsatisfactory” to “most people”. It’s too bad all Kimbers won’t do it. A Kimber that doesn’t function like Ted’s problem here is rare. I’m still trying to figure out where anybody took anything I said as Kimbers being better than Tikka. In my opinion, Kimbers look way better... that’s it.. when Kimber gets it right, they put out a fine rifle that weighs very little. Quite a bit lighter than Tikka even... Once again, you Tikka owners are easy to hackle up. It’s funny how this thread turned into “you shoulda bought a Tikka...”
I could really care less what my T3X looks like when it shoots like this. . Sight in at 100 yards, break out the magnetospeed, plug it in, let the LRHS eat.........when the wind doesn't blow it's really cheating. It will hold .5MOA or better out to 500 (as far as I can shoot at local range) with numerous loads and bullets.
Factory ammo on the right, my first reloading effort with 129g LRAB's and IMR4451. the 130AB's shot almost exactly the same with 43g H4350, but 1" higher.
A CRF rifle extractor like a 1911 extractor has to be "tuned", so if you plan on owning CRF rifles or 1911 pistols you might want to learn how to replace and fit extractors since they can be a maintenance item. The Hunter rifle has more than 55 discrete parts and these are not custom built rifles so mistakes will happen. Clearly the extractor in question isn't tensioned properly (not sure why) and if you keep jamming a round in the chamber and slamming the bolt closed without feeding from the magazine you will at some point need to learn how to fit and tune an extractor. I don't know the history of the Hunter in question but this issue could happen to any CRF rifle and without more information it's ridiculous to imply that this one rifle says anything about Kimber rifles in general. Push feed rifles have a simpler extraction system in terms of the lack of fitting and adjustment required so perhaps the OP should sell the Hunter and get a PF. A Tikka perhaps.
A CRF rifle extractor like a 1911 extractor has to be "tuned", so if you plan on owning CRF rifles or 1911 pistols you might want to learn how to replace and fit extractors since they can be a maintenance item. The Hunter rifle has more than 55 discrete parts and these are not custom built rifles so mistakes will happen. Clearly the extractor in question isn't tensioned properly (not sure why) and if you keep jamming a round in the chamber and slamming the bolt closed without feeding from the magazine you will at some point need to learn how to fit and tune an extractor. I don't know the history of the Hunter in question but this issue could happen to any CRF rifle and without more information it's ridiculous to imply that this one rifle says anything about Kimber rifles in general. Push feed rifles have a simpler extraction system in terms of the lack of fitting and adjustment required so perhaps the OP should sell the Hunter and get a PF. A Tikka perhaps.
That's some damned fine customer service.
Maybe if Kimber spent more money on QC and less on pixellated hero camo stock patterns, they wouldn't have these issues.
Does anyone have a link to a good tutorial on tuning CRF extractors? Since this thread popped up I've been curious what the best method is: where to bend, where not to bend, how to know when you've bent enough/too much? Plenty of 1911 extractor tuning articles out there but I haven't really seen a good CRF extractor tuning article.
This Thread is fhuqking HILARIOUS! It's akin to some STUPID Fhuqk whining about buying a glass,that doesn't already have water in it,a pair of boots that aren't tied,or binoculars that aren't pre-focused. LAFFIN'!!!
It's a 10 fhuqking second fix and that such things reliably stump The Paper Hat Brigade...is THE Gift that keeps on giving.
Bless your hearts.
I've "only" needed to tune Extractors on 54's,Pre/Post Wars,Post '64 Classics(blued and S/S),Rugers and Montuckys...in no particular fhuqking order and only from 22 Hornet to 375H&H AI.
You DUMB Fhuqks never disappoint and the only reason this schit is reliably sooooooooooo fhuqking FUNNY,is that you gals really are doing your BEST.
This Thread is fhuqking HILARIOUS! It's akin to some STUPID Fhuqk whining about buying a glass,that doesn't already have water in it,a pair of boots that aren't tied,or binoculars that aren't pre-focused. LAFFIN'!!!
It's a 10 fhuqking second fix and that such things reliably stump The Paper Hat Brigade...is THE Gift that keeps on giving.
Bless your hearts.
I've "only" needed to tune Extractors on 54's,Pre/Post Wars,Post '64 Classics(blued and S/S),Rugers and Montuckys...in no particular fhuqking order and only from 22 Hornet to 375H&H AI.
You DUMB Fhuqks never disappoint and the only reason this schit is reliably sooooooooooo fhuqking FUNNY,is that you gals really are doing your BEST.
Wow +P++!
Laffin'!
What’s hilarious is an admitted 10 second fix is skipped at the factory and a semi-functional rifle is shipped out to be sold to parties who may not be gun savvy as the gun nuts on this site. Then customer support for those that may actually need it seems to be a whole lot less than supportive. As far as running a cost effective business, this strategy sucks. If I bought a laptop that needed a few steps of coding, not software but actual coding, and was sold this laptop without that knowledge I would be sol, even if some tech savvy geek at bestbuy could type it out in a few minutes and laughed at my lack of coding knowledge. There’s no excuse for it other than crappy QC, all jibes aside for those that already know how to diagnose and fix the problems.
I may try my luck with a kimber someday but must say these threads and their abundance will effect my decision is only common sense.
A CRF rifle extractor like a 1911 extractor has to be "tuned", so if you plan on owning CRF rifles or 1911 pistols you might want to learn how to replace and fit extractors since they can be a maintenance item. The Hunter rifle has more than 55 discrete parts and these are not custom built rifles so mistakes will happen. Clearly the extractor in question isn't tensioned properly (not sure why) and if you keep jamming a round in the chamber and slamming the bolt closed without feeding from the magazine you will at some point need to learn how to fit and tune an extractor. I don't know the history of the Hunter in question but this issue could happen to any CRF rifle and without more information it's ridiculous to imply that this one rifle says anything about Kimber rifles in general. Push feed rifles have a simpler extraction system in terms of the lack of fitting and adjustment required so perhaps the OP should sell the Hunter and get a PF. A Tikka perhaps.
Its not just this one rifle. A search will show you many quality control problems members have had with Kimbers. A lot of people have no problem taking a new rifle out of the box and having to immediately work on it to get it to function properly. I think a new rifle should function correctly as delivered. There are post on the fire dedicated to just show you what is "commonly" needed to be un [bleep] on a Kimber out of the box for the rifle to function correctly.I've owned several dealt with Kimbers [bleep] customer service and will gladly not buy anything made by Kimber ever again.
What’s hilarious is an admitted 10 second fix is skipped at the factory and a semi-functional rifle is shipped out to be sold to parties who may not be gun savvy as the gun nuts on this site.
You're making the assumption that the rifle, and specifically the extractor, didn't leave NY in proper working condition. Do you know for a fact that the extractor wasn't tensioned properly in NY? Many rifles are removed from boxes, put on racks in gun stores only to have lots of people play with them. CRF extractors work really well when they're set up properly, but unlike Sako style extractors they're also much easier to mess with too, intentionally or unintentionally. If you own a CRF rifle you might want to lean how to maintain it since even under the best circumstances the extractor can loosen up. When closing the bolt with a round in the chamber for an X+1 configuration it's good practice to apply some pressure to the extractor at the midpoint between the extractor retaining clip and tail to help ease the claw over the case rim.
When I informed Savage that my NIB Weather Warrior had a barrel with an incorrect twist rate, and the front and rear bridges were ground incorrectly, they wouldn't pay shipping one way let alone two ways. Based on the OPs posts, Kimber hasn't tried to blame anyone else for this and is paying for shipping both ways. That sounds like terrible customer service to me.
Could it be the brass? The thing had to be test fired.
I had a 257 Roberts with chatter marks from the reamer so bad the fired brass came out with flats all the way around. Sent it back Kimber said it was within specs!! I rebarreled it on my own dime. There are 2 Classic selects in the classifieds I'd love to buy but the seller bought them used and hasn't fired them. I know how [bleep] Kimbers customer service has been for me when I was the original owner you would surely be SOL if you bought a used one with problems.
He has had several, most being sub par. He obviously wants to really love Kimbers and has given them way more chances than any company deserves. When they get it right, you can’t beat them. It sucks how often they get it wrong though.
What’s hilarious is an admitted 10 second fix is skipped at the factory and a semi-functional rifle is shipped out to be sold to parties who may not be gun savvy as the gun nuts on this site.
You're making the assumption that the rifle, and specifically the extractor, didn't leave NY in proper working condition. Do you know for a fact that the extractor wasn't tensioned properly in NY? Many rifles are removed from boxes, put on racks in gun stores only to have lots of people play with them. CRF extractors work really well when they're set up properly, but unlike Sako style extractors they're also much easier to mess with too, intentionally or unintentionally. If you own a CRF rifle you might want to lean how to maintain it since even under the best circumstances the extractor can loosen up. When closing the bolt with a round in the chamber for an X+1 configuration it's good practice to apply some pressure to the extractor at the midpoint between the extractor retaining clip and tail to help ease the claw over the case rim.
When I informed Savage that my NIB Weather Warrior had a barrel with an incorrect twist rate, and the front and rear bridges were ground incorrectly, they wouldn't pay shipping one way let alone two ways. Based on the OPs posts, Kimber hasn't tried to blame anyone else for this and is paying for shipping both ways. That sounds like terrible customer service to me.
This is plain silly, the frequency at which these not so inexpensive rifles pop up with issues out of the box is without a doubt higher than any other rifle in its class. Arguing that maybe something happened at the LGS to cause said malfunction in this particular rifle and also in the myriad of other rifles in similar threads is the definition of grasping at straws. For the amount of money people pay for these guns should command better QC. Argue all you want its the truth.
A CRF rifle extractor like a 1911 extractor has to be "tuned", so if you plan on owning CRF rifles or 1911 pistols you might want to learn how to replace and fit extractors since they can be a maintenance item. The Hunter rifle has more than 55 discrete parts and these are not custom built rifles so mistakes will happen. Clearly the extractor in question isn't tensioned properly (not sure why) and if you keep jamming a round in the chamber and slamming the bolt closed without feeding from the magazine you will at some point need to learn how to fit and tune an extractor. I don't know the history of the Hunter in question but this issue could happen to any CRF rifle and without more information it's ridiculous to imply that this one rifle says anything about Kimber rifles in general. Push feed rifles have a simpler extraction system in terms of the lack of fitting and adjustment required so perhaps the OP should sell the Hunter and get a PF. A Tikka perhaps.
By watching the videos one can tell that it has nothing to do with "spring tension." Instead it is one of the following:
a. An extractor's claw that is too short. In this case the claw never contacts the case right past the rim. The distance between the claw's tip or edge and the opposite side of the bolt facing the claw, has to be narrower than the case's rim. Most CRF bolts have a claw's front edge that is beveled, and this allows the claw to travel or spring over the case's rim as the bolt closes. Once the claw springs over the rim, it rests squarely on the case. The bevel is useful if one decides to manually load a round in the chamber instead of stripping the round out of the magazine with the bolt.
b. The case's dimensions at the base is not within specifications for the caliber being use (too small).
Assuming that Kimber used the correct bolt, one that is within specs for the caliber, then all they would have to do is to replace the extractor with one of the right dimension.
All my big game rifles are CRF, and I have never had to tune any.
All 84M extractors are MIM with tight tolerances so I doubt that the extractor claw is "too short". If the OP still has the rifle he can do a simple test to determine if extractor tension is the issue. With the extractor at the 3 o'clock position, slide a small screwdriver blade under the extractor midway between the clip and the tail until the tail lifts off the bolt body a few thousandths. Then check if a cartridge will slide under the extractor and remain in place while "shaking" the bolt. The more you raise the tail off the bolt the harder it becomes to slide the rim under the extractor claw. If you push down in this region of the extractor (towards the bolt body) you see the opposite effect where the claw moves away from the bolt face. If this approach "fixes" the issue then the extractor needs to be tuned which involves decreasing the inside radius of the extractor between the clip and the tail.
As for the case being out of spec, that should be an easy thing to check by trying other ammo brands or cases from any .308 Win based cartridge since the 6.5 CM is identical to the .308 Win where it interfaces with the extractor and bolt face.
One test I often do is to rotate the extractor from the 3 o'clock position to the 12 o'clock position and back again a few times to get a feel for the drag on the bolt. There should be some resistance to moving the extractor i.e. it shouldn't flop freely back and forth. I like more resistance rather than less here.
All 84M extractors are MIM with tight tolerances so I doubt that the extractor claw is "too short". If the OP still has the rifle he can do a simple test to determine if extractor tension is the issue. With the extractor at the 3 o'clock position, slide a small screwdriver blade under the extractor midway between the clip and the tail until the tail lifts off the bolt body a few thousandths. Then check if a cartridge will slide under the extractor and remain in place while "shaking" the bolt. The more you raise the tail off the bolt the harder it becomes to slide the rim under the extractor claw. If you push down in this region of the extractor (towards the bolt body) you see the opposite effect where the claw moves away from the bolt face. If this approach "fixes" the issue then the extractor needs to be tuned which involves decreasing the inside radius of the extractor between the clip and the tail.
As for the case being out of spec, that should be an easy thing to check by trying other ammo brands or cases from any .308 Win based cartridge since the 6.5 CM is identical to the .308 Win where it interfaces with the extractor and bolt face.
One test I often do is to rotate the extractor from the 3 o'clock position to the 12 o'clock position and back again a few times to get a feel for the drag on the bolt. There should be some resistance to moving the extractor i.e. it shouldn't flop freely back and forth. I like more resistance rather than less here.
What I meant by, "too short" was the distance from the outer edge of the claw toward the middle of the bolt's face. The OP already showed that if he turns the rifle's muzzle to the ground, the claw does not grab the case by the rim during extraction. In fact, the claw never springs over the rim and then drops on the case (first video), even when loading the chamber. I could be wrong of course, but as far as I know, if the claw is already over the case's rim, it won't fail to extract it.
This to the OP: I have a couple of Ruger CRF rifles. With the claw in the extraction position (bolt removed from the rifle first), the case is being extracted from the chamber only by the claw. If I then place a case between the bolt's face under the claw (extractor), I can only turn the bolt so that the claw is at 12 o'clock position if I don't want it to drop out of it. If I decide to turn the bolt so that the claw is at 6 o'clock, then there is nothing holding the case's rim at 12 o'clock, and the case drops.
The reason for this bolt design (above) is as follows: when the sase is being extracted, the claw is approximately at the 3 o'clock position or the ejection port. When the bolt nears the end of its rearward travel, the ejector, which is just a narrow and rectangular-shaped bar, pushes the base and edge of the case at approximately 7 o'clock position and turns it toward the ejector port. In other words, you don't want to have the case being held by the bolt and the claw during ejection. But again, this is how the Ruger CRF bolt works.
Hopefully tedthorn figured what is wrong with his rifle. But I kicked myself for not asking him that instead of trying to load a CRF action like a push-feed, to load it as one would a CRF. Just load the magazine with a case or two, and then load the chamber allowing the bolt to strip and then grab the case on its way to the chamber, and finally to extract the case by cycling the bolt. If the case is now extracted normally, then there is not a problem with the rifle other than the bolt/claw not being designed to chamber a round like a push-feed would.
As I mentioned earlier, the claw in a Ruger CRF bolt has a beveled front. In this case if one places a round in front of the bold and then loads the chamber, when the bolt locks down the claw springs over the rim and grabs the case. But is the Kimber bolt designed the same way?
A CRF rifle extractor like a 1911 extractor has to be "tuned", so if you plan on owning CRF rifles or 1911 pistols you might want to learn how to replace and fit extractors since they can be a maintenance item. The Hunter rifle has more than 55 discrete parts and these are not custom built rifles so mistakes will happen. Clearly the extractor in question isn't tensioned properly (not sure why) and if you keep jamming a round in the chamber and slamming the bolt closed without feeding from the magazine you will at some point need to learn how to fit and tune an extractor. I don't know the history of the Hunter in question but this issue could happen to any CRF rifle and without more information it's ridiculous to imply that this one rifle says anything about Kimber rifles in general. Push feed rifles have a simpler extraction system in terms of the lack of fitting and adjustment required so perhaps the OP should sell the Hunter and get a PF. A Tikka perhaps.
On what page of the owners manual does Kimber outline the extractor maintenance procedure?
A CRF rifle extractor like a 1911 extractor has to be "tuned", so if you plan on owning CRF rifles or 1911 pistols you might want to learn how to replace and fit extractors since they can be a maintenance item. The Hunter rifle has more than 55 discrete parts and these are not custom built rifles so mistakes will happen. Clearly the extractor in question isn't tensioned properly (not sure why) and if you keep jamming a round in the chamber and slamming the bolt closed without feeding from the magazine you will at some point need to learn how to fit and tune an extractor. I don't know the history of the Hunter in question but this issue could happen to any CRF rifle and without more information it's ridiculous to imply that this one rifle says anything about Kimber rifles in general. Push feed rifles have a simpler extraction system in terms of the lack of fitting and adjustment required so perhaps the OP should sell the Hunter and get a PF. A Tikka perhaps.
On what page of the owners manual does Kimber outline the extractor maintenance procedure?
Hopefully tedthorn figured what is wrong with his rifle. But I kicked myself for not asking him that instead of trying to load a CRF action like a push-feed, to load it as one would a CRF. Just load the magazine with a case or two, and then load the chamber allowing the bolt to strip and then grab the case on its way to the chamber, and finally to extract the case by cycling the bolt. If the case is now extracted normally, then there is not a problem with the rifle other than the bolt/claw not being designed to chamber a round like a push-feed would.
As I mentioned earlier, the claw in a Ruger CRF bolt has a beveled front. In this case if one places a round in front of the bold and then loads the chamber, when the bolt locks down the claw springs over the rim and grabs the case. But is the Kimber bolt designed the same way?
Pardon, the highjack, but today I got to actually shoot my son's Hunter, not just watch him shoot it. It shoots pretty well with factory stuff; much better than the first time he tried it after following JB's advice about padding the rest with a folded towel. This one extracts just fine. Recoil
Not a bad little rifle, actually, though I'm not trading in my Rugers or Mauser on one.
I guess the old saying that " Beauty is in the eye of the beholder" is very true as I think Tikka T3x Superlite's are quite handsome rifles, especially with a stainless shroud and aluminum bottom metal, I think with all the aftermarket stuff available for these rifles you can make them really cool.....Hb
Funny as shyt listening to all the bolt gun worshippers talk about ugly guns. Particularly ones with any kind of synthetic stock. I never thought any bolt action was particularly good looking but a nice piece of walnut can make one tolerable. Good looking rifles all have levers, exposed hammers, tube magazines and walnut furniture.
Funny as shyt listening to all the bolt gun worshippers talk about ugly guns. Particularly ones with any kind of synthetic stock. I never thought any bolt action was particularly good looking but a nice piece of walnut can make one tolerable. Good looking rifles all have levers, exposed hammers, tube magazines and walnut furniture.
I suppose much beauty we see in a rifle depends on the images it invokes within the imagination. Levers aren't my thing at all but I understand how one could strike the fancy of another. I see a well designed bolt gun and my fantasy is of tiny groups at long range.
Yeah those Kimbers can be hit or miss, I had an 84 in .308 wood/blue that functioned great and shot factory ammo .75 MOA but I also later bought a brand new Montana in .308 that was the worst POS rifle I have ever had the displeasure of owning, that thing would not feed or eject properly and 4 MOA groups were average with factory ammo (several brands, bullet weights) and of course Kimber CS was pitiful, I sent the rifle back and 4 months later I got it back with a letter saying the rifle was in spec accuracy wise, I didnt shoot the rifle again so I dont know if Kimber fixed the feeding and ejection issue's .....That being said Beretta CS is no better, I sent a brand new Sako 85 Finnlight .270 Win back to Beretta CS with the notorious straight up ejection issue and they said the rifle was in spec and ejected cases as it was designed and no fix was needed, I hope to never need factory service for any of My Tikka's but between me and My buddies dozen or so Tikka rifles I have never seen one fail to function properly or shoot poorly, hell ive never seen a Tikka rifle that wouldnt easily shoot MOA with factory ammo. its really no feat to develop a handload that will shoot MOA or better in any modern bolt action rifle.....Nothin against reloader guy's as I used to do it Myself but I much prefer occupying my valuable free time doing other more enjoyable things.....Hb
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