Clear flexible tube with an outside diameter slightly larger than neck diameter. Shove the tube through ejection port and lodge as far forward in the chamber as possible. Deploy wipeout and have a beer.
Same advice as above. They also sell one as a nozzle/tube combo that fits on the wipeout can. I believe Midway and/or Brownells sells them, and maybe other places as well.
They sell a roughly one foot adapter . I throw away the tubing that came with it and buy a few feet of clear tubing at Lowes and change it out on a regular basis. The adapter stops at the chamber throat.
The foam works great but it gets everywhere. I now use wipe-out patch-out. No more foam with the same great results. I leave it in the barrel for 24 hours.
Been using it for years, wonderful stuff! I like to use it on a new rifle before shooting it. then I wet the bore with a rod/soaked patch with EezOx. let dry overnight, then run a Boresnake through it. I shoot one, run a wet/EezOx Boresnake through and repeat for five. that's my break in. Works wonderful! Have a ball pard! Butch's Bore shine, CR10, etc, they work but too messy for me anymore, ha.
I also have been using it for years... I was AMAZED at the crap that I got out of a "CLEAN" barrel. On one rifle that was "clean" I actually got better groupings after getting all the stuff out with wipeout.
As an aside, I use the straws from McDonalds put on the foam can to stick into my bolt guns/leveractions with great success.
The foam works great but it gets everywhere. I now use wipe-out patch-out. No more foam with the same great results. I leave it in the barrel for 24 hours.
They even make an excelerator if your in a hurry. Hasbeen
Just curious how much are ya'll paying for a bottle of Wipe-Out? I ask as I got a good deal on a Gunslick version I believe of it three years ago that is 3 times the size of a bottle of Wipe-Out for $7.99 or so I believe. I have been really happy with it, so I stocked up on it. Well, the earthquake that hit in November here knocked it all off my shelf and ruined my last unused can of it. I can't even find what I bought around here anymore, but I have seen Wipe-Out in most gun stores of late, but it's at least $15 a bottle. I'll probably go ahead and buy some though. Just curious what most in the lower 48 are paying for it.
Just curious how much are ya'll paying for a bottle of Wipe-Out? I ask as I got a good deal on a Gunslick version I believe of it three years ago that is 3 times the size of a bottle of Wipe-Out for $7.99 or so I believe. I have been really happy with it, so I stocked up on it. Well, the earthquake that hit in November here knocked it all off my shelf and ruined my last unused can of it. I can't even find what I bought around here anymore, but I have seen Wipe-Out in most gun stores of late, but it's at least $15 a bottle. I'll probably go ahead and buy some though. Just curious what most in the lower 48 are paying for it.
Heres a single.........3x the amount of wipeout for similar price and works just as good........atleast for those who have compared them side by side with equal rounds fired, same gun, etc.
I've been using wipe out and bore tech eliminator for years. I have a big piece of cardboard on the floor of my gun room. I'll plug the chamber of a rifle with large patches and then foam the bore with wipeout and lay the gun on the cardboard overnight. The next day I'll patch it out. I use bore tech for quicker jobs.
I’ve heard the “messy” complaint about Wipe Out several times. Here’s how I use it.
Place the rifle in the cradle with the barrel as level as possible. Remove the bolt and insert a good quality bore guide with an o-ring that seals the chamber. (Sinclair makes one, any chambering). Cover the stock with waterproof material under the bore guide. I then lay a paper towel on top of the waterproof material. Insert the nozzle of the Wipe Out foam can over the muzzle. Push button and apply foam until it comes out of the end of the bore guide. Lift the paper towel from the stock cover while at the same time wiping any excess foam from the rear of the bore guide. Allow the foam to soak in the barrel (in my case, usually overnight). Use your cleaning rod thru the bore guide with dry patches to “wipe out” the throat and barrel. No fuss, no mess. Easy !
My guns must be dirty as heck then. I've used Wipeout and the accelerator until the patches came out clean and then for schitts and giggles ran some JB Bore though the barrel and it comes out black as heck. I'm working on a CZ 527 in .223 right now using Sweet's and alternating with JB and its the same thing. Let it soak for 15 minutes, dry patch it out then a little JB. Repeat. Maybe I need some Montana cleaner.
I've gotten several rifles clean down bare metal before, but it was a long process.
My guns must be dirty as heck then. I've used Wipeout and the accelerator until the patches came out clean and then for schitts and giggles ran some JB Bore though the barrel and it comes out black as heck. I'm working on a CZ 527 in .223 right now using Sweet's and alternating with JB and its the same thing. Let it soak for 15 minutes, dry patch it out then a little JB. Repeat. Maybe I need some Montana cleaner.
I've gotten several rifles clean down bare metal before, but it was a long process.
JB will always show BLACK...........I'd stop before you sand down all your rifling......haha
My guns must be dirty as heck then. I've used Wipeout and the accelerator until the patches came out clean and then for schitts and giggles ran some JB Bore though the barrel and it comes out black as heck. I'm working on a CZ 527 in .223 right now using Sweet's and alternating with JB and its the same thing. Let it soak for 15 minutes, dry patch it out then a little JB. Repeat. Maybe I need some Montana cleaner.
I've gotten several rifles clean down bare metal before, but it was a long process.
After you get done with the JB and have everything cleaned up run some more JB thru it and see what happens. 😁
JB will always come out black no matter how clean the bore is. That is just how it breaks down.. Wipeout is good stuff. I put my gun in a cradle rest take out the bolt and using the piece of clear tubing I push tight in the chamber and give a shot until it comes out of the muzzle. Wait for all of the pressure to subside and remove the tubing and run a bore mop of chamber size into the chamber for any loose stuff remove slowly and wipe off with a rag. Then wipe the excess off at the muzzle. Raise the butt stock a couple of inches and prop something under to hold it there and place a can under the muzzle. As the foam melts the liquid drips out of the barrel and into the can. Leave overnight and patch the next day and clean! If not I patch it and give it another shot. Works very well and no muss or fuss. Only way I clean anymore. I also treat my bores with bore coat and they clean super easy.
I try to keep things simple, so when using Wipeout put the rifle in a vise with the muzzle pointed SLIGHTLY down, chamber a fired case, the use the plastic tube that comes with WO to squirt the stuff into the bore, and leave it overnight.
DubThomas, jmp300wsm is absolutely right: The JB is just polishing steel at some point, especially after already getting just most copper copper out with Wipeout. And believe me, you do NOT want to keep polishing the bore. Most shooters assume a finely polished bore would result in less fouling, but it actually result in more copper, because the bullet makes more contact. Which is why barrel companies that lap bores use a small but definite grit.
I try to keep things simple, so when using Wipeout put the rifle in a vise with the muzzle pointed SLIGHTLY down, chamber a fired case, the use the plastic tube that comes with WO to squirt the stuff into the bore, and leave it overnight. it.
I’ve heard the “messy” complaint about Wipe Out several times. Here’s how I use it.
Place the rifle in the cradle with the barrel as level as possible. Remove the bolt and insert a good quality bore guide with an o-ring that seals the chamber. (Sinclair makes one, any chambering). Cover the stock with waterproof material under the bore guide. I then lay a paper towel on top of the waterproof material. Insert the nozzle of the Wipe Out foam can over the muzzle. Push button and apply foam until it comes out of the end of the bore guide. Lift the paper towel from the stock cover while at the same time wiping any excess foam from the rear of the bore guide. Allow the foam to soak in the barrel (in my case, usually overnight). Use your cleaning rod thru the bore guide with dry patches to “wipe out” the throat and barrel. No fuss, no mess. Easy !
This is exactly how I do it, the foam never touches anything other than the bore. Those that are trying to jury rig stuff to squirt it through the chamber are making it way too hard, just put a bore guide in, lay an old towel over the stock beneath the end of the bore guide, and squirt from the muzzle. Go do something else for a few hours or go to bed and run a patch through it in the morning.
It doesn't even have to be one of the high dollar O ring style bore guides, I have a cheapie multi-caliber one and it works plenty well to keep any foam from getting into the action.
I ALWAYS squirt from the CHAMBER so I do not have crap all in the action and wood. The stuff runs out the end of the barrel. No mess no fuss. Different strokes though...
I try to keep things simple, so when using Wipeout put the rifle in a vise with the muzzle pointed SLIGHTLY down, chamber a fired case, the use the plastic tube that comes with WO to squirt the stuff into the bore, and leave it overnight.
DubThomas, jmp300wsm is absolutely right: The JB is just polishing steel at some point, especially after already getting just most copper copper out with Wipeout. And believe me, you do NOT want to keep polishing the bore. Most shooters assume a finely polished bore would result in less fouling, but it actually result in more copper, because the bullet makes more contact. Which is why barrel companies that lap bores use a small but definite grit.
Well, there ya go. I wondered WTH was going on. I figured there was no way my rifles were that dirty. Thanks for the information.
If you care enough about your rifle to clean it , you should care enough to have a good bore guide and a good rod for it ! Place rifle in cradle level to muzzle slightly down. Place bore guide into action. Apply wipeout through the bore guide until it jus starts to come out the end of the barrel. Couple hrs later rotate rifle in cradle 180 degrees , and reapply wipeout. Couple hrs later ( I usually let it sit over night ) push 3-4 dry patches and done. Pretty simple .
I ALWAYS squirt from the CHAMBER so I do not have crap all in the action and wood. The stuff runs out the end of the barrel. No mess no fuss. Different strokes though...
Uhhhh, YES. I've been squirting wipe out from the muzzle for 10 years and never got a drop of it in the action or on the stock. The ones complaining about it getting in the action and on the wood are trying to squirt it from the chamber, why would you want to make things more difficult? The can's designed to squirt from the muzzle, that's why it's got the little reverse funnel on it.
I try to keep things simple, so when using Wipeout put the rifle in a vise with the muzzle pointed SLIGHTLY down, chamber a fired case, the use the plastic tube that comes with WO to squirt the stuff into the bore, and leave it overnight.
So do you have a "sacrificial" case that you use for this purpose only? I would imagine the copper attacking properties of Wipeout wouldn't do any favors to a brass case that you planned to reload again.
I purchased the additional "applicator spout" for Wipeout to make it easier to apply from the chamber, but it doesn't work well with the smaller bores (IIRC it doesn't quite fit the chamber of my 223). Works great for everything bigger though.
I ALWAYS squirt from the CHAMBER so I do not have crap all in the action and wood. The stuff runs out the end of the barrel. No mess no fuss. Different strokes though...
Uhhhh, YES. I've been squirting wipe out from the muzzle for 10 years and never got a drop of it in the action or on the stock. The ones complaining about it getting in the action and on the wood are trying to squirt it from the chamber, why would you want to make things more difficult? The can's designed to squirt from the muzzle, that's why it's got the little reverse funnel on it.
That's why I suggested the McDonalds straw earlier in the thread.... easy peasy and it all goes out the end of the barrel with no risk of coming back in the action.
Just curious how much are ya'll paying for a bottle of Wipe-Out? I ask as I got a good deal on a Gunslick version I believe of it three years ago that is 3 times the size of a bottle of Wipe-Out for $7.99 or so I believe. I have been really happy with it, so I stocked up on it. Well, the earthquake that hit in November here knocked it all off my shelf and ruined my last unused can of it. I can't even find what I bought around here anymore, but I have seen Wipe-Out in most gun stores of late, but it's at least $15 a bottle. I'll probably go ahead and buy some though. Just curious what most in the lower 48 are paying for it.
Heres a single.........3x the amount of wipeout for similar price and works just as good........atleast for those who have compared them side by side with equal rounds fired, same gun, etc.
Gunslick is what I have used the past 3-4 years, but my last bottle either fell off my work bench during our earthqauke in Nov. or the oldest so dropped it when he was cleaning his Mosin. Either way, I'm going for the Wipe-Out brand this go around.
I try to keep things simple, so when using Wipeout put the rifle in a vise with the muzzle pointed SLIGHTLY down, chamber a fired case, the use the plastic tube that comes with WO to squirt the stuff into the bore, and leave it overnight.
This is how I've always done it. Well, that's a lie. The first time I did it with no way of "plugging" anything and had a huge mess. So, this is how I've always done it since the second time.
For cripes sake! Use the applicator below and apply from the chamber end.. Make sure the black tip is up to or into the throat. Shake the can well (the warmer the can the better) and be careful not to use to much or you'll end up wasting the wipe-out that goes out the end of the barrel. Leave the applicator in the throat until you are ready to wipe the wipe-out out.. For .22 cal barrels cut off the black tip, taper the clear plastic tubing and thread it into the chamber.. Takes a bit of practice but easy to do after you get the feel for it.. NO MESS! NONE!
For cripes sake! Use the applicator below and apply from the chamber end.. Make sure the black tip is up to or into the throat. Shake the can well (the warmer the can the better) and be careful not to use to much or you'll end up wasting the wipe-out that goes out the end of the barrel. Leave the applicator in the throat until you are ready to wipe the wipe-out out.. For .22 cal barrels cut off the black tip, taper the clear plastic tubing and thread it into the chamber.. Takes a bit of practice but easy to do after you get the feel for it.. NO MESS! NONE!
This, except that I remove the applicator once the foam stop its initial expansion, and I use the black tip for my .22 cal rifles, as well. I also hold the applicator tightly into the throat with my support hand. Works perfectly. Never any mess.
I stick my left hand pinky in the chamber.................shoot the wipeout (or other brand foam) in from the muzzle with my right hand.......short bursts to regulate the amount. Not that hard to not create a mess.
It's really pretty simple, just a small learning curve the first time you use it,
The bore guide idea is very good, provided the bore guide does not have a solvent port,, Tried the blue tape trick on the port, No Go.
Mule Deer's Idea is caveman simple, yet crazy smart, make sure the spent primer is still in, Ya!
The straw idea, with no way to stop backflow, there's better ideas here.
FWIW, 3 nights in a row here cleaning rifles with wipeout, I'll repeat myself, never seen such clean patches after the use of wipeout.
Related note, Range day last Sunday, Barnes TSX, I cleaned often during the time at the range and also just before leaving with Bore Tech Eliminator, (first time use for me),
Monday night copper was visible at the muzzle.. Not so cool.
My bore guides have solvent ports. I apply foam until I see the foam in the port, then stop with the foam. This is why I waterproof the area over the stock and why I cover with a paper towel. When the foam shows up at the port, I use the towel to catch the excess and wipe the bore guide. The foaming stops within seconds. That’s how I do it, but do whatever works for you, but don’t try to tell me it’s too messy. It’s just easier fo me to apply Wipe Out from the muzzle.
For cripes sake! Use the applicator below and apply from the chamber end.. Make sure the black tip is up to or into the throat. Shake the can well (the warmer the can the better) and be careful not to use to much or you'll end up wasting the wipe-out that goes out the end of the barrel. Leave the applicator in the throat until you are ready to wipe the wipe-out out.. For .22 cal barrels cut off the black tip, taper the clear plastic tubing and thread it into the chamber.. Takes a bit of practice but easy to do after you get the feel for it.. NO MESS! NONE!
This, except that I remove the applicator once the foam stop its initial expansion, and I use the black tip for my .22 cal rifles, as well. I also hold the applicator tightly into the throat with my support hand. Works perfectly. Never any mess.
My guns must be dirty as heck then. I've used Wipeout and the accelerator until the patches came out clean and then for schitts and giggles ran some JB Bore though the barrel and it comes out black as heck. I'm working on a CZ 527 in .223 right now using Sweet's and alternating with JB and its the same thing. Let it soak for 15 minutes, dry patch it out then a little JB. Repeat. Maybe I need some Montana cleaner.
I've gotten several rifles clean down bare metal before, but it was a long process.
Consider a new barrel on the CZ 527. I had 4 replacement guns before they gave me my money back.
I try to keep things simple........chamber a fired case, then use the plastic tube that comes with WO to squirt the stuff into the bore...........
Pretty cut & dry.
I learned this the hard way. First time I used WipeOut I cleaned the barrel & then put the gun back in the safe. Had no idea it would clean the chamber so well that the bolt would lock on the first firing. It literally glued the action shut. It took about 10 fired rounds to even loosen the action to its normal function. Almost shut down my range trip.
That's when I adopted MD's method of using a fired case.
For cripes sake! Use the applicator below and apply from the chamber end.. Make sure the black tip is up to or into the throat. Shake the can well (the warmer the can the better) and be careful not to use to much or you'll end up wasting the wipe-out that goes out the end of the barrel. Leave the applicator in the throat until you are ready to wipe the wipe-out out.. For .22 cal barrels cut off the black tip, taper the clear plastic tubing and thread it into the chamber.. Takes a bit of practice but easy to do after you get the feel for it.. NO MESS! NONE!
This, except that I remove the applicator once the foam stop its initial expansion, and I use the black tip for my .22 cal rifles, as well. I also hold the applicator tightly into the throat with my support hand. Works perfectly. Never any mess.
+1 People making too much out of the process.
I agree , but if one is using a bore guide why not apply through it ?
I use these products which are great for copper, not good at all for cooked on carbon
[/URL]
Inspected with a hawkeye bore scope [/URL]
[/URL]
Copper is easy to get out of the barrel, carbon is another issue. It usually takes stiff plastic brushes short stroked back and forth, concentrating on the throat area to get the carbon out. Great bronze bristle brushes used 100 strokes then thrown away help in stubborn carbon removal, but are not the sole answer in and of themselves. Scrubbing with Bore tec Eliminator on a regular basis after every range sesson will ease the pain. As shooting strings extend to 50-60 rounds, carbon gets cooked on hard, with more aggressive cleaning regiment required. JB on patches, JB on plastic or bronze bristle brushes, JB red on patches with a tight fitting jag, then you get to more aggressive compounds sold by Brownell's, Al Oxide and Silicone carbide mixed in pastes.
For guys that shoot PRS, Colony varmint shooting, F class, large over bore cases, a regiment of keeping the carbon out of the barrel is paramount in maintaining accuracy
Few reloaders are on top of keeping the carbon out of their barrels...few. Advanced information is coming to light on a "Heat Index" for various types and brands of powders. The higher the heat index, the hotter the powder burns. This Heat Index has Immediate consequences in how much carbon is cooked on the inside of the barrel surface, how hard it is to get out, and barrel life associated with the Heat Index.
A revolutionary tool has come on the market at a very affordable price, the Lyman Bore scope. This scope costs in the neighborhood of $200. You can capture pictures with it and store the pictures on your computer creating a file of pictures of a particular barrels wear over time. It will become all too obvious that various powders will carbon up a barrel very differently.
After using a bore scope for a while, you will become your own expert on the snake oil that is sold to clean barrels. Cleaning frequency will become a habit based on a particular barrel's need, bore, powder used, amount of powder used, and some bullets will copper foul more than others. Bore diameters will vary from end to end, you will learn where powder fouling creates a carbon ring, where copper accumulates in your particular barrel, and all too obvious will be the throat wear
For the Wipe out fellows, running a few soaked patches of Accelerator, then brushing with a Montana Extreme or Isso plastic brush will help tremendously in the removal of Carbon, then use the Wipe out Patch out. All copper will be gone, but carbon is another issue.
In this thread, you hear of guys like using this and that. You never know their application is a 223 or a 7 stw. You also never know if they examine their bores with a bore scope. Over the years, I have helped some guys at the range that say they clean when their gun start loosing accuracy. The problem with this mind set is that you are now in TROUBLE, removing the very hard cooked on carbon. In many cases, the carbon can not be removed with out extraordinary effort and expense.
I would urge all to get a lyman bore scope that wants to get their barrel clean, otherwise you will be a victim of Marketing gimmicks.
If you love Kroil, you will fall in love with Free All [/URL]
[/URL
Looks like I need to dynacoat my barrels
My brother owns a large tire store and rebuilds a lot of front ends on trucks and cars. Removing rusted bolts is a tough job,Especially OLD rusted on bolts.
Free All is in a class by it's self.
We have tried these penetrating oils. Free All is king.
I have helped 7 guys that had bad carbon build up when they were only using Wipe out foam, over the phone and net. I did not know their cleaning frequency, they had a heck of a time getting the carbon out.
Calibers
22/243 ' 22/243 AI(2)
7 mag
20-22/250 AI,
two guys with savage factory barrels, 6.5 creed, and 308
All of these men but one bought a hawkeye bore scope
My doctor was worried about my cholesterol so I switched to margarine. I’ve lost 15# and do I feel great! Even the misses noticed my shrinking waistband. I’d recommend it.
I've used Wipe Out for years and it's great but for copper, it doesn't get it out like Sweets or Eliminator IME. I prefer the Gunslick foaming cleaner. It seems to work just as well and you get much more and an applicator for the same price.
I generally use the Wipe Out applicator and apply thru the bore guide til it comes out the muzzle with a plastic bottle on the end. Keep rags over the stock to catch any back flow. Might have to switch to the unfired case. I might have some bore plugs around. Might give them a try.
I use these products which are great for copper, not good at all for cooked on carbon
[/URL]
Inspected with a hawkeye bore scope [/URL]
[/URL]
Copper is easy to get out of the barrel, carbon is another issue. It usually takes stiff plastic brushes short stroked back and forth, concentrating on the throat area to get the carbon out. Great bronze bristle brushes used 100 strokes then thrown away help in stubborn carbon removal, but are not the sole answer in and of themselves. Scrubbing with Bore tec Eliminator on a regular basis after every range sesson will ease the pain. As shooting strings extend to 50-60 rounds, carbon gets cooked on hard, with more aggressive cleaning regiment required. JB on patches, JB on plastic or bronze bristle brushes, JB red on patches with a tight fitting jag, then you get to more aggressive compounds sold by Brownell's, Al Oxide and Silicone carbide mixed in pastes.
For guys that shoot PRS, Colony varmint shooting, F class, large over bore cases, a regiment of keeping the carbon out of the barrel is paramount in maintaining accuracy
Few reloaders are on top of keeping the carbon out of their barrels...few. Advanced information is coming to light on a "Heat Index" for various types and brands of powders. The higher the heat index, the hotter the powder burns. This Heat Index has Immediate consequences in how much carbon is cooked on the inside of the barrel surface, how hard it is to get out, and barrel life associated with the Heat Index.
A revolutionary tool has come on the market at a very affordable price, the Lyman Bore scope. This scope costs in the neighborhood of $200. You can capture pictures with it and store the pictures on your computer creating a file of pictures of a particular barrels wear over time. It will become all too obvious that various powders will carbon up a barrel very differently.
After using a bore scope for a while, you will become your own expert on the snake oil that is sold to clean barrels. Cleaning frequency will become a habit based on a particular barrel's need, bore, powder used, amount of powder used, and some bullets will copper foul more than others. Bore diameters will vary from end to end, you will learn where powder fouling creates a carbon ring, where copper accumulates in your particular barrel, and all too obvious will be the throat wear
For the Wipe out fellows, running a few soaked patches of Accelerator, then brushing with a Montana Extreme or Isso plastic brush will help tremendously in the removal of Carbon, then use the Wipe out Patch out. All copper will be gone, but carbon is another issue.
In this thread, you hear of guys like using this and that. You never know their application is a 223 or a 7 stw. You also never know if they examine their bores with a bore scope. Over the years, I have helped some guys at the range that say they clean when their gun start loosing accuracy. The problem with this mind set is that you are now in TROUBLE, removing the very hard cooked on carbon. In many cases, the carbon can not be removed with out extraordinary effort and expense.
I would urge all to get a lyman bore scope that wants to get their barrel clean, otherwise you will be a victim of Marketing gimmicks.
I use Dyna Bore Coat in Prarie dog guns and only clean using Wipeout if accuracy drops off or I feel bad. Typicaly thisnis after 300 rounds or more. Never resorted to scrubbing the bore with a bronze brush to remove carbon. It might be there, but it hasnt hurt accuracy at all in my guns. However, I dont not use ball powders at all.
Some time ago I bought one of every brand folks said would work to get all of the copper and carbon out of a barrel. I don't remember them all, but I do remember I had Wipeout and Accelerator in the mix along with the Gunslick (what was using then) along with some M-Pro7, Break-free clp, Hoppe's #9, something Extreme, and a few others.
I picked a rifle out that was starting to have the groups go bad on a known good-shooting (.6-.7" group @ 100) load and looked at the bore through a bore scope. I started with Hoppe's and worked my way through them all. Looking at the barrel after each one was used. Hoppe's did the least to clean out the copper. The 3rd from the last one was the Outers Gunslick and there were still spots of copper. The Wipe-out took most of that out but there was still some spots left. To get ALL of it out, I used some 27% Ammonium Hydrate solution. THAT cleaned it down to the metal. No copper, no carbon.
Only trouble with that was it took 28 shots to get the gun back to grouping the way it did.
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