Hey guys, new guy here. I finally bought my .243 Remington ADL rifle online and will pick it up possibly on Thursday next week. My question is, since Im not a handloader, what would be the best cartidge to buy for target practice, and coyote hunting, I'm thinking hunting coyote and target practice can use same cartridge? Also I know that deer hunting has to be 95 grain to 100 grain. I have a 1:10 twist on the barrel. Then someone told me I needed to break in the barrel ? I mean, I'm a total rookie when it comes to hunting rifles. Also I read that I need to Oil up the rifle as soon as I get it ? Any input will be appreciated. Thanks.
Remington Corelok is plenty good for deer hunting. I’ve used both the 80 & 100 grain here at the Ranch for both deer and hogs, but prefer the 100 grain. Pretty accurate for Factory ammo too. The 80 grain works well on coyotes.
First off, not that it really matters, but every Remington 243 that I've seen, and I've had several of them, all had the 1-9.25 twist barrel. Anyway, the great thing about the 243 is that it will shoot a wide variety of ammo accurately. I like bullets in the 55-70 grain weight for coyotes, using the 58 grain VMax most of all. For deer, 90-100 grain bullets are usually the choice, and I like the Nosler BT's.
As a compromise, and I go this route a lot, every 243 I've every owned shot the Sierra 85 grain bullet extremely well. It's a good coyote bullet, and it will do a good job on deer. You'll have to reload for this one, so it's something you can keep in mind.
First off, not that it really matters, but every Remington 243 that I've seen, and I've had several of them, all had the 1-9.25 twist barrel. Anyway, the great thing about the 243 is that it will shoot a wide variety of ammo accurately. I like bullets in the 55-70 grain weight for coyotes, using the 58 grain VMax most of all. For deer, 90-100 grain bullets are usually the choice, and I like the Nosler BT's.
As a compromise, and I go this route a lot, every 243 I've every owned shot the Sierra 85 grain bullet extremely well. It's a good coyote bullet, and it will do a good job on deer. You'll have to reload for this one, so it's something you can keep in mind.
Hey guys, new guy here. I finally bought my .243 Remington ADL rifle online and will pick it up possibly on Thursday next week. My question is, since Im not a handloader, what would be the best cartidge to buy for target practice, and coyote hunting, I'm thinking hunting coyote and target practice can use same cartridge? Also I know that deer hunting has to be 95 grain to 100 grain. I have a 1:10 twist on the barrel. Then someone told me I needed to break in the barrel ? I mean, I'm a total rookie when it comes to hunting rifles.[i] Also I read that I need to Oil up the rifle as soon as I get it ?[/i] Any input will be appreciated. Thanks.
I don't "break in" any barrel,AFAIC it's a waste of time and ammo.
Never heard of "Oil up the rifle as soon as I get it" I think someone is pulling your leg.
I tried looking for stuff below 25 bucks, the 87 and 75grn Vmax from Hornady will flatten coyotes. Congrats on your new rifle, I am sure it is going to shoot great. I don't do the barrel break in thing, I clean them when I get them out of the box and then go shoot. Just don't heat up your barrel bad, shoot 3-5 rounds and let it cool, the rifle will serve you well. Also if you have any desire at all to reload, then do it. You can get an entire set up in the Lee Challenger kit and handloading opens a whole other door to shooting......rifle is not hard to reload.
I would also shoot a 95 or 100grn bullet for deer, Nosler ballistic tip and Nosler partitions have a good record of being deadly. There is one exception, the 80grn Barnes TTSX at 3,350fps would be a fine choice as well. My buddy's son shot a 300lb cow elk in AZ last fall and it had super good internal performance on the animal and did a complete pass through.
Get your self a rifle cleaning kit for .243 calliber and clean the bore before you shoot it. Don't forget hearing and eye protection. Try some different ammo brands and bullet weights to see what your rifle groups best with.
Clean your barrel aftey your done shooting it and wipe the metal down with a light coat of oil to keep it from rusting when you put it away.
If you’re gonna use one rifle for all of your expected hunting (which I highly approve of), use the same bullet and zero for everything. Assuming that the majority of your hunting will take place in Florida, and again assuming that most shots will be relatively close (under 300 yards)....the heavier bullets would be good on deer and have plenty of velocity for quick, humane kills on varmints (adequate expansion). Again, assuming that many shots may be taken fairly “quickly”.....learning one zero and one trajectory, will minimize any confusion “in the heat of battle”! “Not” having to quickly to remember different aim-points” for different “points of impact”, may prevent some misses or wounded animals! JMO. memtb
... Try some different ammo brands and bullet weights to see what your rifle groups best with. ...
This ^^^^^^ ... Every rifle is different. Try several different brands and bullet weights to find a load that your rifle shoots accurately.
Originally Posted by memtb
If you’re gonna use one rifle for all of your expected hunting (which I highly approve of), use the same bullet and zero for everything. ...
And This ^^^^^^ ... If you are just starting out, Keep It Simple. A 90gr to 100gr deer bullet will kill coyotes and paper targets just fine.
Once you find a factory loading that works well for your situation, buy a case of it to have all one lot. Then commence to killing stuff. I have a life time supply of .270 Win reloading components. However, my primary deer rifle (.270 Win) stays dialed in for Nosler factory cartridges loaded with 130gr AccuBonds. Of which I just opened a fresh case yesterday.
Take the bolt out and clean it from the breach end. Get a coated cleaning rod and a bore guide. Watch some videos on how to properly clean first, doing it wrong can damage the bore but don't worry to much just use a bit of caution. Sticking the rod in the muzzle end can damage the crown if not done carefully.
I like bore tech eliminator. One bottle will last for ever. A brass jag and proper sized patches. Clean it once before you first shoot it. I'd not worry much about break in. Take it to the range, sight it in, clean it again when you get home. Clean it again after the first few outings and then only clean it if accuracy drops off or if you live in a high humidity area clean it then run a light oil patch before storage.
Pretty much any factory 100g ammo will do everything from varmints to deer to keep it simple. Stick with 1 load and you won't have to adjust the scope switching to different loads. If you want to mess with some fast varmint stuff try some 55g nosler ballistic tips. A little light for deer generally but dynamite on varmints.
Hey, I will let you guys know when I get the scope. There is a guy here Tzone, told me to get a Leupold VX-3 2.5-8 x 36mm any better suggestions at a better price ?
Remington Corelok is plenty good for deer hunting. I’ve used both the 80 & 100 grain here at the Ranch for both deer and hogs, but prefer the 100 grain. Pretty accurate for Factory ammo too. The 80 grain works well on coyotes.
Hey, I will let you guys know when I get the scope. There is a guy here Tzone, told me to get a Leupold VX-3 2.5-8 x 36mm any better suggestions at a better price ?
Scopes are a matter of personal preference, and what you plan on doing with the rifle. Leupold's are good, but so are other least expensive options. I like the Burris Fullfield line of scopes, and they have a lifetime warranty, plus you can get one for about half the cost of a Leupold. I have them in 3X9X40 and 4.5X14X42, both with the BDC reticle, and have found that they work for either hunting or shooting paper.
I also have several Nikon scopes, the Prostaff 5 and Monarch 3's, and I like them.
If you got the Remington 700 ADL rifle and scope package, the rifle should have come with Weaver bases, and you'll need to take them off, clean the holes and screws with a good solvent, put some Loctite on the screws and put them back on. I'd buy another set of scope rings, as I don't like the rings that come with that setup, but in a punch they will work.
Hey, I will let you guys know when I get the scope. There is a guy here Tzone, told me to get a Leupold VX-3 2.5-8 x 36mm any better suggestions at a better price ?
Thats a pretty good suggestion. For a guy with one rifle and one scope I think I would suggest a Vx3 or Vx3i 3.5-10x40. Your going to get a zillion opinions on scopes , rings and bases on here as one guy will swear his life on one brand and another will tell you he had 6 of them and they where all junk. If your really price sensitive on optics a good resource might Doug from Cameraland he is a sponsor here. If you post your looking for a scope on the optics forum here he will probably find you. I have never personally purchased anything from him but he has a great reputation on several forums. I have got a good deal on VX3 scopes here on the Fire classified.
I bought my lad a .243 Ruger when he turned 12. 37 years later, he is still killing hogs, coyotes and deer with it. I believe the Remington CoreLokt 100 grain is all he has ever used in it.
For a scope, for your situation, Leupold VX3, either 2.5x8x36 or 3.5x10x40 should cover 99% of what you will want to do... My primary deer rifle wears a Leupold 2.5x8x36...
Hey, I will let you guys know when I get the scope. There is a guy here Tzone, told me to get a Leupold VX-3 2.5-8 x 36mm any better suggestions at a better price ?
It depends on what you want to do with the rifle. If it is for strictly hunting then the 2.5x8 would be perfect. If you want to shoot it at longer ranges then a 3.5x10 or a 4x12 would be better.
Please let us know what your plans are for the rifle.
As you can figure out, I dont know much of anything when it comes to fire arms, can I ask you, why we need to change the rings? The only thing that can think of is that the scope moves ? Not a good grip? Thanks
Typically you want to use the lowest rings possible that will keep the objective bell of your scope from hitting the rifle barrel. Some rings are simply better made and the holes will more likely be properly aligned and not require lapping.
Elliot, Again I’m making assumptions, so here goes. I’m a Leupold fan, though there are numerous good scopes available for a little less money. That said, with the hunting conditions I hunted in when living in Louisiana ( likely very similar to Florida), I’d go with the Leupold 2.5-8 over the 3.5-10. Both would be a great choice, but the lower power (2.5-8) gives you a slightly larger field of view on very close, potentially fast shots offered in the dense woodlands of the southeast! memtb
Typically you want to use the lowest rings possible that will keep the objective bell of your scope from hitting the rifle barrel. Some rings are simply better made and the holes will more likely be properly aligned and not require lapping.
Which rims are more likely to be properly aligned in your opinion?
I don't "break in" any barrel,AFAIC it's a waste of time and ammo.
Never heard of "Oil up the rifle as soon as I get it" I think someone is pulling your leg.
^^^^€^^^^ correct. I NEVER have done a Barrell “break in” & ain’t gonna start. Some guys are serious about it but AFAIC break in only adds to barrell WEAR. Save it for practice & hunting.
WELCOME to the fire and good luck.
BTW, one of the MOST accurate rifles I’ve owned was an ADL 06. I hope yours is also.
Typically you want to use the lowest rings possible that will keep the objective bell of your scope from hitting the rifle barrel. Some rings are simply better made and the holes will more likely be properly aligned and not require lapping.
Which rims are more likely to be properly aligned in your opinion?
You seem to be having a difficult time keeping up!!! The OP wasn't asking about car tires and Hoth was referring to an item that is used to attach an aiming device to a rifle
As you can figure out, I dont know much of anything when it comes to fire arms, can I ask you, why we need to change the rings? The only thing that can think of is that the scope moves ? Not a good grip? Thanks
The rings that come on the Remington rifle/scope packages are about the cheapest ones made. I'm not saying they won't work, because I know several people who have used them with no problems, but I just prefer a little more expensive set. It's just a matter or personal preference.
That's what's great about the Remington 700, it's a great start.
It doesn't have to be like that.....
On a budget, a guy can tweak the factory trigger with a new spring and see how it shoots with the unbedded factory tupperware. They sometimes perform pretty well like that. Sometimes they do better with a bed/float though, I will admit.
**I would ditch that plastic ADL guard though, and go with a metal one. The plastic ones nearly always crack.
....or, you could just go shoot it like it is, see what it does, and work through issues on your own...learn it all the hard way, BUT you’d know the issues or non-issues, and not just heard about them on the internet, and you’d have your own trigger time behind your education, not just my typing (or someone else’s) on the inter webs. LOL
Folks are trying to steer you right and save you grief here. My only point is that it’s YOUR rifle, in the end.
I much prefer the 3.5-10 leupold to the 2-8. I've never had a 2-8 that tracked consistant at all. I've had better luck overall with the 3.5-10 than any other leupold. Luck them both over and pay attention to eyebox and field of view. Maybe the 2-8 is for you just don't get frustrated sighting it in if one click is 3/4 moa, the next is half moa, and another hardly moves things at all.
I hope Elliot is doing well and will share his experiences with us as things progress. Should we bed the thing? Maybe cut back to 21" and recrown too? Weld the bolt handle? Pin the recoil lug? AI that sucker? He'll need a suppressor.... Oh chit we haven't even lapped the lugs!
Right now what I gather from all the info is just stick to one type of cartridge and then moved on as I progress with the shooting, about the scope... I will try to get one that is under $200, since I dont have more money to put in it. I thought I had more but I dont. Recrown ? Bolt handle, pin the recoil lug? Dude I dont know half the things you wrote. Never care about guns until now and I wish I had started earlier. Thanks guys.
When it comes to optics,spend a little more than you can afford.
Bullschit. Spend what you can afford. Not more. There are plenty of adaquate scopes for $200. Look up Doug at Cameraland, he sponsors the "optics forum". He'll set you up.
... I will try to get one that is under $200, since I dont have more money to put in it. I thought I had more but I dont.
Did your ADL come with a scope already mounted? If it did, I'd shoot the scope that's on it and save more money for another scope. They aren't great scopes on the package rifles, but I'd try shooting it before taking it off.
If you dont have a scope and only $200 to spend look at the Burris FFII lineup as Boomer suggested. Or cruise the classifieds here and look for a decent used scope in your price range. Just make sure the used scope you get comes with a transferable warranty.
Make sure as you make changes to the rifle you only do one thing at a time. So if you change the scope don't do anything else to the rifle until you shoot the rifle at the range. This way it makes things much easier to diagnose if your shooting takes a turn for the worse. Believe me I know how tempting it is to change the scope, trigger, and stock all at the same time.
Elliot, CDNN is running a closeout on Bushnell Trophy XLT scopes for $70. They are good scopes for the money and should have no issues with the recoil of a .243.
Right now what I gather from all the info is just stick to one type of cartridge and then moved on as I progress with the shooting, about the scope... I will try to get one that is under $200, since I dont have more money to put in it. I thought I had more but I dont. Recrown ? Bolt handle, pin the recoil lug? Dude I dont know half the things you wrote. Never care about guns until now and I wish I had started earlier. Thanks guys.
Elliot, Consider used. Almost all, quality scopes have a lifetime warranty....including second owners. Used, quality scopes can be had for 40 to 50% of original price when new. Do your homework, determine you preferred scope, and shop! I’ve bought several good quality, second hand scopes right here on the “fire’s” classified section. Meaning....you should be able to get a better scope within your imposed scope budget, as compared to buying a new scope! memtb
When it comes to optics,spend a little more than you can afford.
Bullschit. Spend what you can afford. Not more. There are plenty of adaquate scopes for $200. Look up Doug at Cameraland, he sponsors the "optics forum". He'll set you up.
I highly recommend using either of two "one-step" cleaning products. CorrosionX or Eezox. As said, clean the bore before using, and make sure it is dry before firing.
Both products clean, lubricate, and dry to touch. Very good in humid conditions, such as Alaska or Florida, and for protecting from finger prints and hand moisture.. Once dry, they will not attract and "hold" dirt, wipe off like oils, freeze, or gum.
Those two are the only things I have used in the last 30 years or so, with no regrets, if I had them on hand. Well, sometimes Hoppes 9. Because I like the smell......
I have used 100 gr bullets almost exclusively in my ..243, which I have had since 1974 or so. Can't say I have ever warmed to the caliber, but it has taken sheep, black bear, caribou, and moose. Hornady Whitetail ammo is generally both accurate and about the cheapest, and works well. Ditto Remington Corelokt. I have largely gotten away from using premium bullets simply because the plane janes have done as well for me, and are much less expensive.
Using premiums because they are the most accurate in your rifle, or because your caliber may be a little "light" for the game are good reasons for going to premiums. Or just because you want to, and they give you a warm, fuzzy feeling, cost be damned.
For "average" hunting purposes, a 2-7, 2.5-8, or a straight 6 power scope is hard to beat at most hunting distances, except very long range (whatever that is). Any will be plenty good to 400 yards.
Damn, you pretty much help me a lot with all that information but I got one more question I bought the hopps # 9 should I replace it with CorrosionX or Eezox?
Damn, you pretty much help me a lot with all that information but I got one more question I bought the hopps # 9 should I replace it with CorrosionX or Eezox?
I wouldn't. Hoppes is good to get the fouling out. Get Barnes or something of the like to get the copper fouling out.
Plus, you can use the Hoppe's for cologne since the ladies like it so much.
What's wrong with the metal brushes ? You got me there.
A phosphor-bronze brush used with a powder solvent like Hoppes No 9 works well to break up powder fouling. I've used them for decades.
Don't use it with copper solvent though, because the solvent will attack the brush. Don't try to change directions with the brush while it is in the bore either.
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