Hi ,I need help . I have been trying to make my T/C 50 cal. Bone Collector shoot groups at 100 yards with Remington 250 gr. Premier Accutips , 120 grs. Black Horn , Fed. blue box shot shell primers , Leo. 3x9 . I get two in a 3 in. group and the next one hits 8 in. away hi. . Any help would be appreciated .

I'm wondering how you chose 120gr as the load?

Start at something less and work up to see what works in your rifle. It may not be the max possible load that shoots the best...

I had the same thought, Re-start your load development from 90.0 grains to 110 grains in "5 grain increments". IMO....powder charges over 110 gains is just not needed for whitetail.

If your so inclined.....try the T/C 200 grain shock-wave bullet packaged with the blue sabot. This bullet shoots 9 inched flatter at 200 yards than any 250 grain bullet and kills deer ..DEAD.

You can thank me later.

Doc

Ditto on too much powder. Start at 80-90gr with your chosen projectile, then work up to see how high you can go with that. If the starting loads are really bad as you describe, then you need another bullet IMO. How often you need to wipe your barrel will vary, but I want a load that lets me shoot at least three between wipes for hunting.

Get some crushed rib sabots and toss the factories.

Somewhere between 90 and 110 grains of 209 should work.

My pro hunter shoots 105 of 209, crushed rib sabots, 250 Barnes TMZ or 250 shockwave into 1" +-, same point of impact

I dry patch between shots...

I use the yellow cr sabots, ones for boat tails, with the TMZ, and the black ones for the shockwaves

what Pappy said

I am glad to see this posted, I am having the same problem with my bone collector.Pretty gun but shoots bad so it doesn't go hunting yet and I have been shooting the same load as my CVA load (which is great with this gun) and that could be the problem

110 gr of BH with a T/C maxi hunter with a Remington kleanbore 209 primer

That is probably a really bad idea considering the Accutip is not a true .451 or .452 bullet. Its a little smaller .4485 in. diameter. Using other 45cal bullets the Black Crushrib is a good choice for the T/Cs. The first thing that comes to mind here is that the first 2 shots are not nearly as bad as the third. That tells me the barrel is probably heating up. Its very common for 2 shots to be close but by the time the third is loaded the barrel is much warmer and accuracy really degrades.

Someone mentioned the 50x40 sabots. The MMP 50x40 sabot is likely very very tight in a T/C bore and 50x40 sabots do not play as well with hot loads. All the BC increase is worthless if you need to reduce your load too much to get them to shoot. There are few 250gr 45cals that can match the BC of the 200gr SST and there are MUCH better 40cal bullets available than the SST. Such as Fury Custom bullets for about the same cost. Around $44/50 plus shipping or $74/50 for the new tipped version. Both are bonded lead core which are not offered in the T/C or Hornady 40cals.

You are basically just wasting money on high BC at 150y or under shots. Go with what shoots good and retains enough energy for a clean kill at that range.

Best thing to do is get something cheaper to sight in and take your time.

Box of Hornady 45 250gr XTPs....they kill deer just fine too
2 Boxes of Harvester Black Crushribs
Start the load at 90gr and work up
Wait 15min or more between shots so the barrel has time to cool. Put it in the shade to help it cool down faster.

I had many problems with my 50 cal. Encore. It got much more accurate when I decided to clean the barrel every shot , make sure I had the same 8o gr. load and made sure the bullet was pushed down with the same force every time. I get 2" @ 50 yds with open sights and rarely a flier. I also get quite good results with my new TC Hawken with round balls if I keep the barrel clean and loads consistent.

Got a bunch of those. They even work with sabots in my .54 Renegade. In general, I like the heavier ones, but they probably arent needed for Bambi.

I prefer the 300gr XTP also but the advice is based on getting the gun to shoot well first. The 250gr XTP costs less and will create less recoil yet its still adequate for the task. The list of 250gr bullets that are better is pretty large and just a simple bullet swap has a good chance of shooting well also. No real need at this point in spending $1+ per bullet just for paper.

Grafs has both the sabots and bullets. 100 shots total will cost $51.72 with shipping.

Natchez has some sabots for 3 bucks a 50 pack.

Those are Knight sabots made by MMP and no clue which MMP sabot. They could be far tighter than the Harvesters if its a MMP HPH-12 sabot. Natchez wants the same price for the Harvester Black Crushribs and a little less for the XTP....compare the shipping though. Ive seen $15 from them when Grafs was shipping flat rate for $8 so it might be a wash. For me they want $12.60 for the same package Grafs will ship for $10.
Grand Total: $52.07

Check with Midsouth Shooters Supply also. Usually they have very good pricing and fair shipping.

Lordy Lordy!!

I would first try wet swabbing the bore, then dry swabbing, after each shot for 3-5 shots, and then duplicate without scrubbing it.That will help cooling too. That will help eliminate the problem if that is the cause.

Then I would start over with loads , about 80-90 gr of BH209 working up in 10 gr increments. If you see any improvement bracket the best load + and- with 5 gr increment to tweak it in.. Make sure you are compressing the 209 the same every time and when seating the bullet,really push it down hard. 209 likes to have a very hard compression
If no success I'd be looking into different bullets. Even one like the Powerbelt without a sabot.

Also with the sabot's you need a plastic bore solvent along with your regular solvents.
Like others though, I think your problem is too much powder

Ive never had to swab with BH209 even in my tightest bores. Never needed a dedicated sabot solvent either.

Might be the modern version of "Seasoning the Barrel".😛

I buy my Crush-Ribs direct from Harvester. The local stores really mark them up; about $12 or so, last I looked, which was several years ago.

Different barrels,different problems.What works for you might not work for others.What I suggested will cover most problems encountered. Each one singularly may or may not be a problem.. Some rifles shoot better with a fouled bore, some need clean. Some have rough enough bores that plastic from sabots build up just like cooper or lead fouling and regular solvents won't clean it. Some rifles of the same make and model will shoot well with a heavy load,some won't. Some rifles will shoot a particular bullet well and another of the same make and model won't. BH209 always shoots better when the bullet is seated with more force than say 77, Pyrodex or BP.

Cabelas is $9.99/50 for the Crushribs. If you are ordering online then Harvester direct is expensive. They are $9.47/50 or more and $8.32 shipping ....OUCH!!!




Not really your advice is to send more $1.50 a pop bullets down range with new cleaning methods that just dont hold water. Ive shot many 5 pound bottles of the stuff through at least 4 brands of rifles. Swabbing has never been an issue when using Blackhorn. Number 1 cause/s have always been poor sabot fit and not waiting long enough between shots.

Regular solvents/cleaners wont clean sabot residue?...Obviously you never tried really hot water and a bore brush. JBs or Montana Xtreme bore polish. Sabot residue to the point of causing accuracy issues is exceedingly rare with modern sabots. Typical cleaning each outing and a good scrubbing a few times a year with something like JBs is all most of us need unless you blow a sabot. You wont even be on paper at 100 yards if you blow a sabot.

BTW dont tell the majority of inline match winners at Friendship they must have some magical seating pressure and tight projectiles to shoot awesome groups. Most are using sabotless and conicals that are no where near as tight as most sabots. Firm, consistent and repeatable just like any other powder.

45 cal hornady xtp (250 or 300gr), black crushed rib, 100gr by volume blackhorn 209.

What I gave were techniques aimed to isolate common problems. Nothing was said about cleaning methods except to check both clean an dirty barrels.Plastic solvent is a quick check that includes that. If you have shot so much and don't know that different rifles will shoot different bullets better or worse you have not learned much You on the other hand have given nothing except how great your are.Typical of the new members plaguing this forum that can only brag and chest thump with out offering good advice . I'm not going to argue with you,let the OP decide what works for him or not. Go find someone else to chew on.

Obviously your reading comprehension is worse than your advice. My 6+ years on this site are not relevant one way or the other but if being a forum junkie is your bag then thats cool.

Kudu: Check to see if the QLA at the muzzle is concentric with the bore. Many T/C accuracy issues can be traced to an off center QLA. If it is off T/C will replace. I guess they think that customers should do their Quality Assurance inspections.

Thanks guys , am slowly trying diff. things . Keep your tips coming I have been sharing everything with others that have issues . Thanks again .

Toss the inline junk and go back to the RB guns. The problems will eat you and your wallet. I can shoot a week less then your one shot. Shoot clean and no wipe. get real. Guys come with the trash and have to run the rod against a tree to seat the second shot.

Really helpful advice. What makes you think the OP started with a RB rifle, he never said anything about one, and this ain't the "Roundball Rifle Forum."

48 twist?