I just received 500 Factory Second bullets from Midway. They are Moly Coated. I have no experience with Moly Coated bullets and am trying to gain some insight.

After reading this: http://www.mssblog.com/2018/10/19/reloaders-corner-what-happened-to-moly-coated-bullets/ I am wondering if I should just clean them off and use them like normal. Cleaning would likely consist of wiping them off with a paper towel then tumbling them for a bit. I'm sure there would still be some coating on them but they would be much cleaner than they are in the box.

FWIW: these are Factory Second 140gr .264 Deep Curl bullets (sticker on box). I plan to shoot them in my 6.5CM using RL-16 and a starting load for HotCore bullets and work up. Any advise welcome. Thanks.

Either/or. I have the same bullets on the way. I plan to just load and shoot them.

Exactly.....shoot the damn things & don't listen to the "hair on fire" rhetoric.....

Shoot em!!

Would tumbling them with steel pins take the moly off???

I use Molly coated bullets in my varmint rifles. The rifle seems to clean up faster after 100 rounds or so shooting prairie dogs. I'd just shoot them and not be concerned about the coating.

Never saw a down side. Probably only shot 200K of them though.

You should probably hold off on forming an opinion until you'd had the requisite experience.

I'd just shoot them and then clean the bore well once you've shot up the moly coated stuff

This^

Although I don’t think you’d want to switch back and forth with non coated ones. Maybe. Something like that. Anyhoo...

pretty sure 10 rounds of non moly will clean most of the moly out of a barrel. Maybe not even that many

Moly over copper over moly over copper can build up some weird stuff though from what I recall. Seems thats also when folks had carbon ring issues in front of the throat at times too.

I'd shoot moly over copper but then shoot a few copper and clean it well. But I would not be totally right with going back and forth.

Google should tell you that fast orange hand stuff IIRC, in corn cob, in a tumbler will remove the moly from the bullets pretty quickly IIRC

Soak them in Hoppe's no.9 overnight, and wipe the stuff off!

Shooting bare over the moly will require a few rounds to settle down to the bare bullet's accuracy capability in my experience. Other than that all is good other than you will need more powder to provide the same velocity as the bare bullet load.

I have been shooting moly bullets for 20 years to slow down Copper fouling
They are not necessary at 2600 fps or less.
They are not enough at 3600 fps or more.
Moly may not be needed with bore coat, but I do it anyway.
Moly may not be needed with anti Copper fouling powder, but I do it anyway.

Moly vs no moly is not always as big a deal as custom $400 barrel vs Winchester or Remington factory barrel.
The custom barrels are lapped smooth. But some factory barrels look rough, but are slow to foul.

Iv'e shot moly bullets in my 270 for the last 5 years (150s), the only thing I have notice is my velocity is less than published loads. I don't shoot long strings (less than 20 rounds per range session) and I clean after every range session with Wipeout bore foam. I've never notice any clean up problems.

use it in my p/dog barrels......

PIA to apply......I actually wash & dry bullets first

Takes off any film.....moly sticks better...20 cal's are bigger PIA

Have run barrels 12K+ rds....clean easily with 1-3 patches after 100 rds

Remember a good dog patch can run 60 rds per hour

Your mileage may vary......

I've read all types of recipes and methods for removing moly from bullets all over the internet. Most, like many other things on the internet, were speculation, guesses or "I heard" type stuff. I don't know if any of the magical mystery formulas suggested by others work or not. I don't know if tumbling them with steel pins works or not. From actually doing it myself, I do know one thing that works. I put them, about one hundred at a time, in a tupperware container with a lid with hot water and Bar Keeper's Friend cleaner. As to the amount? I put water such that it was about three times the level of the bullets. As to the Bar Keeper's Friend, I just poured a bunch into it without measuring. I shook them for about a minute and then let them set for about 15 minutes. I poured that filthy liquid out and did it again. Then I rinsed those bullets and left them out to dry. They were pretty clean at that time. I then put them, in batches, into my vibrator case cleaner with walnut media and let each batch vibrate for about two hours. They all came out shiny. So, this is one method that does work.

Absolutely a requirement, even more so with hollow points, due to the lube still left inside from seating the cores. If you don't, eventually everything will become contaminated, with zero chance of proper coating.....BTDT......

I use a dozen liberal squirts of Orange Glow/GOJO hand cleaner & a generous dose of Dawn in a quart yogurt container, dissolved in hot water. Using a 2nd container, pour them back & forth a couple three dozen times, then do it under the running faucet till the water runs clear.

I then dump them in a strainer to drain, then on a towel, and hit them with a blow dryer. A couple minutes of that, they're dry and too hot to handle.

Then off to the tumbler, drop 'em in, and walk away for an hour and a half or so.

One other thing, the number of bullets done at a time is based on the case capacity of the vibrator. If it says it'll hold X amount of whatever brass, weigh a few of those to determine what an average weight is, times their max number, and convert it to grains for bullet capacity, minus the weight of the SS balls. My smaller Midway vibrator I dedicate just for moly plating, I run 25-30,000 grains of bullets, so I dump in two 250 count boxes of 50 gr Ballistic Tips.

A rag and some carburetor cleaner was enough to take the moly off of some Fail Safes. These were an odd lot and didn't have the Lubaloy coating. I was mixing bullets so cleaned them. If you are not mixing bullets I would try them coated, I would probably knock the carbon out of the barrel at the half way point of 250 rounds. With R-16 you shouldn't get much copper build up at all. If you have a chronograph I would load back up to the velocity you were getting before if I could do it with a half to a full grain of powder more. But I would stop there even if I was not back up to the previous velocity.

I got some Hornady seconds sometime back, and planned to coat them with moly. They were dirty and nasty. I sloshed them around in some water with dish soap, rinsed them, then dried them in a towel, then tumbled them in some new, clean corncob media for some hours. They looked pretty, and they coated nicely.

I've tried to remove moly before, using the same method of soapy water, rinse, dry, then tumble in a bit of corn cob media. It didn't get all the moly off, but it got nearly all of it off. I loaded some up with some of the same bullet that had never been moly'd. I couldn't see any distinction in velocity nor impact between the two. These were Nosler 168gr E-tips in a 30-06 using Hunter powder.

You are correct, Bar Keepers Friend does work, mainly because it’s mildly abrasive and acidic. Works wonders on a lot of things. Moly removal is just one.