6.5 Creedmore shooting 127 grain Barnes LRX, fairly accurate load (for me) and I've been shooting this load for a few months now,
First pic, 100 yard zero, 'target from past weeks', and again been set this way for a months.
Now today, after using JBM ballistics and entering all current conditions and velocity, (2785) JBM says 13.4 inches of drop at 300 yards, I make up this target, Top target is POA and lower target is the hopefully bullseye,
First 3 shots you see just low of center is 30'06 ( 13 inches of drop) and then the 3 shots lower and left with the slight red circle around them is the 6.5,
First question here, almost 16 inches low rather than the calculated 13.4
So we take the unexpected 16.5 inches of drop and do the math and come up with 5.25 MOA to bring us back on to the top target,
Take one shot, No new hole in or around the top bullseye,,,,,,WTF...
I don't get it, and no I did not verify at 100 yards today, no reason to, been sighted in for months now, nothing has changed.
yes, only a 3 shot string, but avg of 2785, which is also what many sites list for 42.6 grains of H4350...
I even went back to JBM trying to find a velocity that would give 16 inches of drop, That velocity would have to be around 2650 or even lower, those numbers made no sense to me, Hence, this thread.
So the group circled in red is the first 3 shots, then you dialed and missed the top target, dialed back and the next 3 shots are the holes on the bottom potion of the Caldwell target?
So the group circled in red is the first 3 shots, then you dialed and missed the top target, dialed back and the next 3 shots are the holes on the bottom potion of the Caldwell target?
If so, that scope is not tracking well at all.
Correct on the sequence, however I see 6 shots within a 3 inch group, at 300 yards....Not to proud of that lower right shot, likely my fault,
otherwise we are talking factory Tikka hunting rifle here. No heavy benchrest stuff.
You have a "good"100 yrd zero. Reset the aiming point to the middle of the backing, set it at 300, run the scope up 5.25 MOA. Check your results for tracking error, or operator error. Find the "lost" bullet before tearing hair..
You have a "good"100 yrd zero. Reset the aiming point to the middle of the backing, set it at 300, run the scope up 5.25 MOA. Check your results for tracking error, or operator error. Find the "lost" bullet before tearing hair..
Then, here's the skinny of it all, Driving home today I asked myself why complicate things,
Take the CDS scope off, mount a basic well known 2.5x8 and set it for Max Point Blank Range,
Maybe a 250 yd zero, covers all bases out to maybe 375.
Huge hunt coming up too quickly, might be time to simplify life.
Twist this, twist that, range this, custom turrets, questions on tracking.....Yada Yada....
But, still pulling hair on what went wrong today.
Your problems were possibly wind, parallax error, poor tracking and maybe even the load. This all assuming you are a good shooter. 3 shots are not good for much of anything unless you know it is shooting sub moa for 10 shots. When you worked up said load, how did it do with more shots than 3? There could be many outliers if you shoot more than 3 shots. You can certainly go back to MPBR and the 2.5-8x36, but likely will not be shooting any better, just more ignorant of the fact something is wrong. That's bliss in cases like this. If you want to twist turrets, I suggest a better scope. Even the less expensive SWFA SS's work well for that. That would at least get rid of one faulty variable from the equation.
When you adjusted to 5.25 MOA and "lost" where it hit, it might have gone high, over the target. You are making a big assumption that the scope tracks (correctly) all of the time.
I would have centered a fresh target on a long piece of cardboard. I bet you would have caught the hole.
So, center dead on balls at 100. Go out to your maximum range that you want drops for and shoot according to your ballistic app come ups.
Take a measurement of how far off you are and plug into the trajectory validation option on the app.
It will make adjustments from your maximum range back to 100 yards by smoothing the trajectory curve and make it fit correctly. It will do this by adjusting velocity. Past 500 ish yards it will adjust BC.
Now, all this Gack said, I will bet the farm your scope adjustments ain't workin. Big Stick was trying to tell you same.
Hold overs by using hash marks are more reliable than spinning a turret on a piece of crap scope.
My range has long steel silhouette targets at 400 and 550 and I use them for trajectory validation. Easy to see hits.
For conversation’s sake, Name some good scopes with turrets , locking turrets if possible.
SWFA's track to with turrets or without cranking the turrets by using a mil reticle.
Using a mil based reticle is also a helluva lot quicker than dialing. The also come in handy for the "under 100" stuff....having one is murder on a dog town or going from 25 yards to over 400 just by the reticle.
For conversation’s sake, Name some good scopes with turrets , locking turrets if possible.
SWFA's track to with turrets or without cranking the turrets by using a mil reticle.
Using a mil based reticle is also a helluva lot quicker than dialing. The also come in handy for the "under 100" stuff....having one is murder on a dog town or going from 25 yards to over 400 just by the reticle.
One of the reasons I started going to mil reticles... it took a long time and someone ( I won't say who) beating me upside the head about good reticles to see the sense in them and now I wouldn't be without them. Slowly divesting myself of my Leupold scopes also as I've had way too many problems with them to feel like I can trust them any more...
Add a chrono to the mix and you have a pretty decent set up IMO...
A couple of issues I'd address before getting too worried and confused about the external ballistics:
- I'd want more than 3 shots before taking the MV number as gospel. - I'd check the scope's tracking before worrying about my come-ups matching the predicted solution.
I have always found JBM ballistics spot on , if information put into it is correct. Real BC not advertised is important, barnes is always optimistic in my opinion. The 3 moa difference you are seeing could be scope adjustments, wrong elevation in program , incorrect velocity, wrong barometric pressure etc. All that said . Like Jordan stated ,take an average of ten shots for velocity and do a 100 yd box test on scope adjustments. Then double check all your environmental factors.
PROVE the scope,by not doing it any fhuqking favors and simply seeing what it's guts are made of. Then laugh,sell the piece of fhuqking schit and get sumptin' that works,if only for your first fhuqking time. Hint.
Without a decent tracking scope you’re just shooting up valuable components.
At the ranges you’re shooting and getting that kinda error you’d have to be way off on speed and BC ain’t going to make much difference unless you are loading the bullets backwards.
The 3 moa difference you are seeing could be scope adjustments, wrong elevation in program ,
13.4 estimated drop, 16.5 realized drop. 3.1" delta @ 300yds would be ~1MOA, not 3MOA.
In regards to the OP, pardon me if some of this sounds, "Captain Obvious". Did you get your bore/riflescope centerline distance input correctly? If one had been fiddling with the program and had say 2.5" in for an AR then plugged in bolt-action rifle data w/out changing the centerline measurement back down closer to say ~1.5", that might explain 16.5" of drop vs. 13.4" calculated. Did you make sure your zero range was 100 and not 200 in JBM?
You've got 3 things to sort out based on what I see.
1. The initial 1MOA extra drop vs. the calculated chart is one thing.
2. It appears your 2nd group is ~.5MOA higher than the 1st
3. The input correction from the actual 300yd drop didn't correlate to a hit on the upper target so is that a problem w/JBM inputs or the scope's tracking?
I'd happily throw all of my chronographs away,to drive a good erector that tracks,repeats and holds zero. Reupold ain't one of 'em,if only obviously and The World's BEST Chronograph is fhuqking useless there. Hint.
Kiss,find pressure and rock on,while shooting those come-ups...less a chronograph even entering the equation. Hint..................
The 3 moa difference you are seeing could be scope adjustments, wrong elevation in program ,
13.4 estimated drop, 16.5 realized drop. 3.1" delta @ 300yds would be ~1MOA, not 3MOA.
In regards to the OP, pardon me if some of this sounds, "Captain Obvious". Did you get your bore/riflescope centerline distance input correctly? If one had been fiddling with the program and had say 2.5" in for an AR then plugged in bolt-action rifle data w/out changing the centerline measurement back down closer to say ~1.5", that might explain 16.5" of drop vs. 13.4" calculated. Did you make sure your zero range was 100 and not 200 in JBM?
You've got 3 things to sort out based on what I see.
1. The initial 1MOA extra drop vs. the calculated chart is one thing.
2. It appears your 2nd group is ~.5MOA higher than the 1st
3. The input correction from the actual 300yd drop didn't correlate to a hit on the upper target so is that a problem w/JBM inputs or the scope's tracking?
IF three shots are to be trusted to establish the group centers.
It's actually been a goodly number of New Rifles,since I've broken out a Chronograph,ranging from 17HMR to 264 Kreedmire,with LOTSA stops in between. Hint.
With Centerfire,it's easy to complete load "development",before a scope or it's base is affixed. Simply kiss,find pressure and mass produce. With GOOD components and GOOD dies,only GREAT results can be realized. A cursory once-over of mechanics(fasteners/mounting system/bedding etc.) can be nipped too. Adjust the fire control system,mount glass and bang a zero...less a Chronograph,but with a GOOD erector. Hint.
No thang to eek rather exceptional 1K+ DOPE,with far less than (10) pokes through a new spout/platform. Boolits don't lie and about the only time I'm fhuqking around with paper,is to gun that initial zero and watch Moly settle. Hint.................
The 3 moa difference you are seeing could be scope adjustments, wrong elevation in program ,
13.4 estimated drop, 16.5 realized drop. 3.1" delta @ 300yds would be ~1MOA, not 3MOA.
In regards to the OP, pardon me if some of this sounds, "Captain Obvious". Did you get your bore/riflescope centerline distance input correctly? If one had been fiddling with the program and had say 2.5" in for an AR then plugged in bolt-action rifle data w/out changing the centerline measurement back down closer to say ~1.5", that might explain 16.5" of drop vs. 13.4" calculated. Did you make sure your zero range was 100 and not 200 in JBM?
You've got 3 things to sort out based on what I see.
1. The initial 1MOA extra drop vs. the calculated chart is one thing.
2. It appears your 2nd group is ~.5MOA higher than the 1st
3. The input correction from the actual 300yd drop didn't correlate to a hit on the upper target so is that a problem w/JBM inputs or the scope's tracking?
IF three shots are to be trusted to establish the group centers.
It's actually been a goodly number of New Rifles,since I've broken out a Chronograph,ranging from 17HMR to 264 Kreedmire,with LOTSA stops in between. Hint.
With Centerfire,it's easy to complete load "development",before a scope or it's base is affixed. Simply kiss,find pressure and mass produce. With GOOD components and GOOD dies,only GREAT results can be realized. A cursory once-over of mechanics(fasteners/mounting system/bedding etc.) can be nipped too. Adjust the fire control system,mount glass and bang a zero...less a Chronograph,but with a GOOD erector. Hint.
No thang to eek rather exceptional 1K+ DOPE,with far less than (10) pokes through a new spout/platform. Boolits don't lie and about the only time I'm fhuqking around with paper,is to gun that initial zero and watch Moly settle. Hint.................
Pretty easy when your shooting at 2' steel! You should try the 6" steel plates I shoot at and maybe perhaps you might get out your chronograph and seating depth might mean something.......HINT
2' steel plates is only rather exceptional to those who seek subpar ventures....Hint Lauphing
No one does imagination and pretend more than you and why that is remains a mystery because you likely have the ability you just don't have the motivation
Really we are all impressed. Please tell us all the peter pan story again and throw in the story about magical BC killing powers at 10 yds
Fortunately for you,Imagination and Pretend are free,so even a Brokedick like you can "afford" to "contribute"...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
Hasn't been a New Rifle arrive here,in but an hour and a half ago. Google as you MUST and drool as you do. Hint.
Fortunately for you,Imagination and Pretend are free,so even a Brokedick like you can "afford" to "contribute"...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
Hasn't been a New Rifle arrive here,in but an hour and a half ago. Google as you MUST and drool as you do. Hint.
Queeneth is in soooooo fhuqking far over her pointy head,that the realization is finally even dawning upon her and silence is her only fhuqking "move". Hint.
Above rifle was shooting in the .1's yesterday at the 50yd line,right before dark. Shots 3,4,5,6,7 and 8,being the first to do so,after a boresight and zero confirmation with the first pair. Hint.
A reliable erector,is rather fhuqking soothing. Hint..................
Kenneth, Have you figured out what you are going to next time out? When do you plan to go out and shoot again?
Sounds like the gun shoots consistently under 1" (3/4" or a tad larger) at 100 yards. If you think parallax might be part of the culprit, pull back your face from the ocular until you get a black ring on the outside of your FOV. Keep that ring equal all around the view each time you shoot to make sure your eye is exactly in the same place every time.
If you are doubting the tracking of the scope put up a tall target. Watch this for some ideas. https://youtu.be/12Wf0Cuwwi8
Put up a big piece of cardboard at each distance (200 & 300 yards) with some 1 or 2 inch adhesive dots. With a Sharpie, mark the bullet in front of the ogive. If shooting more than one group, you can use different colors for different groups at the same distance.
Queeneth is in soooooo fhuqking far over her pointy head,that the realization is finally even dawning upon her and silence is her only fhuqking "move". Hint..
Seems to be the case. The question was answered early - just a hard truth to hear.
that group is good enough for hunting within 300 yards , with respect to all maybe your rifle does not like Barnes bullets ? maybe try Hammer bullets ? Berger bullets ? Hornady ? i would try Berger bullets for accuracy ?
Kenneth, Have you figured out what you are going to next time out? When do you plan to go out and shoot again?
Sounds like the gun shoots consistently under 1" (3/4" or a tad larger) at 100 yards. If you think parallax might be part of the culprit, pull back your face from the ocular until you get a black ring on the outside of your FOV. Keep that ring equal all around the view each time you shoot to make sure your eye is exactly in the same place every time.
If you are doubting the tracking of the scope put up a tall target. Watch this for some ideas. https://youtu.be/12Wf0Cuwwi8
Put up a big piece of cardboard at each distance (200 & 300 yards) with some 1 or 2 inch adhesive dots. With a Sharpie, mark the bullet in front of the ogive. If shooting more than one group, you can use different colors for different groups at the same distance.
Should be out again Sunday, I'll play with the Creed and see what shakes out, A 3 shot group at 100 to verify zero, move out to 200 and also 300, that's the longest distance available to me,
At some point I might throw the magnetospeed on, just for curiosity, But I believe my velocity has entered is correct.
Yes this gun consistently shoots .7's and .8's at 100, Anyone that don't agree with that, I don't care....
Been doing the black ring on the outside of the FOV for a while, nothing new there.
You tell 'em you "hard charging"..."lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
Points awarded for obliviously quantifying that Imitation is THE most Sincere form of Flattery,"range dots" are a "thing" and that you weren't the one asking questions to start your FULL Fhuqking Retard Thread. In no particular fhuqking order. I am however VERY fhuqking "Surprised!" to learn it were a Reupold. Hint.
that group is good enough for hunting within 300 yards , with respect to all maybe your rifle does not like Barnes bullets ? maybe try Hammer bullets ? Berger bullets ? Hornady ? i would try Berger bullets for accuracy ?
Funny story, That gun loves 42.6 grains of H4350 and 140g Berger VLD hunting bullets, Most accurate rifle and load I have.
Done deal, had that load dialed in a year ago and ample supplies of said components on hand,
Then to my surprise, Outfitter says Bergers really not preferred on his hunts,
Seems like a bad idea to contradict the guy who your about to spend 2 weeks on a mountain top with,
You tell 'em you "hard charging"..."lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
Points awarded for obliviously quantifying that Imitation is THE most Sincere form of Flattery,"range dots" are a "thing" and that you weren't the one asking questions to start your FULL Fhuqking Retard Thread. In no particular fhuqking order. I am however VERY fhuqking "Surprised!" to learn it were a Reupold. Hint.
You came here for help and don't like what you have heard. Now, you are gonna show up for a guided hunt, tell the guide you shoot sub MOA 'all day' and gut shoot an animal by three or more inches in the wrong direction.
Answer the question about my rifle - is it a .18 MOA rifle or a .5 MOA rifle? Which one should I base my drops and data on?
Sit down, be honest with yourself and shoot AT LEAST a five shot group. Get good Chrono data and know what your rifle really shoots. You are fighting two problems, how well you think the rifle shoots and a scope that is questionable at best. Switching to MPBR will only mask the problem.
that group is good enough for hunting within 300 yards , with respect to all maybe your rifle does not like Barnes bullets ? maybe try Hammer bullets ? Berger bullets ? Hornady ? i would try Berger bullets for accuracy ?
Funny story, That gun loves 42.6 grains of H4350 and 140g Berger VLD hunting bullets, Most accurate rifle and load I have.
Done deal, had that load dialed in a year ago and ample supplies of said components on hand,
Then to my surprise, Outfitter says Bergers really not preferred on his hunts,
Seems like a bad idea to contradict the guy who your about to spend 2 weeks on a mountain top with,
So Barnes Bullets it is.
Barnes work. What animal will you be hunting? I have quit using Berger's myself for big game. I have had mixed results. Since the distances are relatively short, Partitions, Accubonds, and the like may be an option, IF you have time and can find them. Curious to hear about your next range report.
You came here for help and don't like what you have heard. Now, you are gonna show up for a guided hunt, tell the guide you shoot sub MOA 'all day' and gut shoot an animal by three or more inches in the wrong direction.
.
Hey, you wannna turn it into a pissing match, we certainly can....
Which part of "I heard but I didn't like"? Explain that please.
Tell the guide that I shoot sub-moa all day? Really? Thats all on you.
Bench and hunting conditions are a whole different story.
I'm in the process of trying to pick which rifle I want to take, it's that simple.
And MPB has been working since long before twisting turrets on hunts,
And since you mentioned the guide(s), feel free to ask the 'guide" how many instances of dudes over complicating things on hunts,
You were told out of the gate the scope is suspect, and you follow-up with "no scope failure suspected". You are sure of your three shot chronograph data. What was you ES and SD? Remarkably low probably. You are told at least 10 shots for your data but balked at that. Look up statistical confidence in the shooting sports. Despite photo evidence, you continue with sub MOA claims. Cherry picking three shot groups when overlayed will be 1 MOA or larger. Why wouldn't you tell that story to others (guide) also?
ES and SD and turrets and sub-moa....Yada Yada.......
You know what I'm really looking for?
One clean killing shot from a cold bore, from a scope who's reticle doesn't need to be moved or worry about a reticle that moved when it wasn't supposed to move,
Kenneth, On a another forum I am on, the kid that never gets respect, is the 270 Winchester. It is a forum joke, doubting whether it has the ability to even kill a prairie dog much past 150 yards. It gets fun made of it, by even the guys that have a 270:) It got start because one member was so in love with the cartridge, and he thought it did everything better. Kind of like fan boys of the 308 Win or the 6.5 Creed who think it is the best cartridge ever. Well, I don't own a 270, but I do have more than one 308 Win, and more than one 6.5 Creed-Ha!
FWIW I have killed several prairie dogs past 1500 yards on specialty pistols that had Leupold's on them (Mark IV and a older 36X BR-D). I have competed in 2-man team long-range 3-day tactical shoot. I have always shot the LR portion with one of my specialty pistols. I have Leupold's among other brands and Darrell Holland and I had good success the two years we shot as a team. I ran Leupy's both times (VX-3 LRT, and a Mark IV FFP the following year). I use a variety of brands FWIW. Have I sent Leupold's back? Yes. I have sent NF, S&B, Vortex, and Burris back too though. I did send one Sightron S-III back, but it had spent a lot of time on a 375 Chey-Tac rifle. I lent to a friend of mines dad. It had spent time on several SP's before that. In tracking tests that have been done to check the consistency of the clicks, you would be surprised at the scopes that didn't do as good as you would expect. Everything wears out and or breaks. I use a lot of Leupold, Burris, Sightron, NF, and Vortex. I use other brands, but not in the numbers of those 5 companies.
If a scope fails when you turn the turret it's dispositioned to crap internals to begin with! I would go Bushnell instead of Leopold simply for the fact that Leopold has changed there scope design all the way to undependable in a matter of a few years. I've seen the new Leopolds fail attempting to get on paper and zero! In fact I just pulled a Leopold off a friend's rifle and replacing it with a ziess conquest simply so he can stop shooting all over the dam place! IME leupold has moved all the way to the land of rediculous as far as quality is concerned
I have some older leopolds that are pretty good scopes! I wish they made the newer stuff as durable
It's your money that is being spent so do with it as you please
If a scope fails when you turn the turret it's dispositioned to crap internals to begin with! I would go Bushnell instead of Leopold simply for the fact that Leopold has changed there scope design all the way to undependable in a matter of a few years. I've seen the new Leopolds fail attempting to get on paper and zero! In fact I just pulled a Leopold off a friend's rifle and replacing it with a ziess conquest simply so he can stop shooting all over the dam place! IME leupold has moved all the way to the land of rediculous as far as quality is concerned
I have some older leopolds that are pretty good scopes! I wish they made the newer stuff as durable
It's your money that is being spent so do with it as you please
Kenneth, Have you figured out what you are going to next time out? When do you plan to go out and shoot again?
Sounds like the gun shoots consistently under 1" (3/4" or a tad larger) at 100 yards. If you think parallax might be part of the culprit, pull back your face from the ocular until you get a black ring on the outside of your FOV. Keep that ring equal all around the view each time you shoot to make sure your eye is exactly in the same place every time.
If you are doubting the tracking of the scope put up a tall target. Watch this for some ideas. https://youtu.be/12Wf0Cuwwi8
Put up a big piece of cardboard at each distance (200 & 300 yards) with some 1 or 2 inch adhesive dots. With a Sharpie, mark the bullet in front of the ogive. If shooting more than one group, you can use different colors for different groups at the same distance.
xp, time to come clean here, I watched the video link you provided, and its clear this Litz dude is a bit of a newb.
3 shot groups? Laughing.............
3 shot groups that are not in a circle??????
oh hell, """"If groups aren't round,the Rifle is screaming at you. Hint.""""""""'
Send a link to this thread to this Litz Joker so he can be properly educated..........
Queeneth is "vindicated" in being the Drooltard "victim",in something as fhuqking simplistic as a rifle and it's scope. Hint.
It's a keen angle upon Drooling Dumbfhuqktitude,if you are a Whining CLUELESS Kchunt and she's enthralled with the notion...the "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
Obviously,she can only provide a Whine and in her crossed-eyes it has "merit". So she starts a Thread,slinks from same and is compelled to point her Quivering Fingers. Hint.
She'll steal video and pics from others,while making "excuses" for her Dumbfhuqktitude and I fhuqking HOPE that "works". Hint.
xp, time to come clean here, I watched the video link you provided, and its clear this Litz dude is a bit of a newb.
3 shot groups? Laughing.............
3 shot groups that are not in a circle??????
oh hell, """"If groups aren't round,the Rifle is screaming at you. Hint.""""""""'
Send a link to this thread to this Litz Joker so he can be properly educated..........
sheesh.
I thought you were serious at first, then I caught the sarcasm. Bryan is a great guy. I only met him once at the F-Class Nats/World, when we hosted the Worlds at Raton/Whittington Center.
You keep using your Imagination to Pretend you ain't the the Retard which started this Thread,asking these questions...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
that group is good enough for hunting within 300 yards , with respect to all maybe your rifle does not like Barnes bullets ? maybe try Hammer bullets ? Berger bullets ? Hornady ? i would try Berger bullets for accuracy ?
Funny story, That gun loves 42.6 grains of H4350 and 140g Berger VLD hunting bullets, Most accurate rifle and load I have.
Done deal, had that load dialed in a year ago and ample supplies of said components on hand,
Then to my surprise, Outfitter says Bergers really not preferred on his hunts,
Seems like a bad idea to contradict the guy who your about to spend 2 weeks on a mountain top with,
So Barnes Bullets it is.
Unless you are hunting something that bites( 6.5 creedmore so doubtful. ) your guide has not seen Bergers kill stuff or has no problem recommending clients shoot WAAAAAY passed their abilities.........
At a minimum, you are to the left (which several have pointed out). When you consider your real group size, it may be high also. Get one of those phone apps that measure group size based on a picture. It will also tell you where the center of the group is - move that center to your POA (if the scope will track).
In all seriousness, I hope you are successful on your hunt. If you want to study Litz, he states it all starts at 100yds. If you are not locked down at 100yds don't worry about anything else yet. Shoot a 5 shot group, center it and then you know what you are capable of - and maybe it's only being within 3" of your target at 300yds during a worst-case scenario (as your experiment has shown).
With the $$ spent on this hunt, a 10-shot group for accuracy and 10 for velocity is a cheap insurance policy. As you stated, hunting and shooting from a bench are different, if you can't nail it down on the bench you are setting yourself up for something worse in the field.
A 15mph SUSTAINED wind from right to left would push you an inch left at 100 yards. Blowing that way for two zero checks. For the record, that would have opened your groups up to .7 and .8 - not kept them that way, as you claim the rifle consistently shoots.
It has been hard for me to realize you posted with no intention of needing help, just to troll I guess.
Seems like a bad data in, bad data out, type of situation.
Why are you adamant that the scope is tracking correctly? That’s a pretty easy box to check when ruling issues out, and should be done early on in the troubleshooting stages as to not chase ones tail.
I was just shooting yesterday, dealing with a leupold that woulsnt track. Crazy, eh?
Seems like a bad data in, bad data out, type of situation.
Why are you adamant that the scope is tracking correctly? That’s a pretty easy box to check when ruling issues out, and should be done early on in the troubleshooting stages as to not chase ones tail.
I was just shooting yesterday, dealing with a leupold that woulsnt track. Crazy, eh?
Not adamant of anything at this point. It's a work in progress.
You keep using your Imagination to Pretend you ain't the the Retard which started this Thread,asking these questions...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
You keep using your Imagination to Pretend you ain't the the Retard which started this Thread,asking these questions...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
You are doing "GREAT!". Hint.
Fhuqking LAUGHING!.................
Excellent video
Good grief, how many times are we going to go over the same information?
Seems like a bad data in, bad data out, type of situation.
Why are you adamant that the scope is tracking correctly? That’s a pretty easy box to check when ruling issues out, and should be done early on in the troubleshooting stages as to not chase ones tail.
Yup. Very small data set, and/or bad data.
Then scope and mounts would be my next suspects. In reality, if the scope is a Leupy VX, I'd check it (or just chuck it ) before anything else.
I've been around enough 6.5CMs now, especially Tikkas so chambered, I'd be very surprised if the rifle was the problem. They've been the easiest to please rifles I've used.
Kenneth: If I am understanding this correctly, you aimed at the top target without adjusting scope, just to verify drop, and it hit 3" lower than JB indicated?
If so, then something is wrong with your input data. The calculation is off somewhere.
On a side note, toss your Leupolds in the nearest lake. Not the first or the last time a Leupold turned a good rifle into a bad rifle.