I purchased a used Savage 111 LR Hunter and finally got a chance to put a bore scope down the barrel. I've seen dirt roads that look less washboardy! I knew it had been shot quite a bit, but I got it for such a great deal, I was willing to chance it knowing I may have to rebarrel eventually. My question is who do you experts here on the fire recommend do the rebarrel job, brand of barrel and what can I expect for cost and turn around time? I'm thinking factory contour, stainless and finished at 26".

Thanks for the replys in advance!

Elk Country

Probably shoot it first. But if not, ship this barrel directly to Shooter71 and send your current action to him. You'd be up and running in no time.

http://www.bugholes.com/product-p/x-6.5mm-8tw-ss-2b-27.htm

Savage with a barrel nut? Buy a prefit barrel, action wrench and go gauge. Literally a 10 minute job.


Lots of places make savage prefits.

Criterion

I have had great luck with PacNor barrels installed by their smiths. I have had three done so far.

But on a Savage, I have purchased the barrel nut wrench and have a barrel vice on my reloading table (MidwayUSA). A good barrel from Criterion or McGowan can be had for $370.

Better match grade barrels can be obtained from other manufacturers. How much would you like to spend?

If one is unsure of the tools needed to do your own barrel swap, or procedures involved, give these guys a call.

Sharp Shooter Supply - The Savage Specialists
http://www.sharpshootersupply.com

or:
https://northlandshooterssupply.com
Northland Shooters Supply (NSS) ... NSS is a second-generation family-owned business dedicated to providing top-quality affordable shooting components to the ...
If one is not enamored of the 6.5x284, one has a multitude of chamber choices when rebarrelling a long action Savage rifle with a standard .473" bolt face.

My savage wears an X-caliber barrel and shoots lights out. Swapped it myself...

Shilen sells "drop in" barrels for Savage 110 series rifles.

I have several Shilen barrels on Mauser, Remington, Ruger, and Savage rifles. All have proven to be quite accurate and easy to clean.

Dan Coffin built mine on a Lilja.

As for timelines, he usually is fairly quick but most every other gunsmith I have used has been on their own fairytale time. A one month estimation usually equals one year, if I bug them a lot. I do not recall the cost.

i have a 6.5 on a 30-06 case and it shoots great. you can purchased most barrels at a cost of under $400 but I would suggest a 8 twist and at least 26" for accuracy . I use a 140gr. burger and reloader powder and the gun will shoot bugholes at 100 yrds. also make sure your smitty knows you want to be able to load the bullet to the lanz. good luck and any further info I might be able to help you with let me know,

WOW! Lots of great info from you guys! I’m leaning towards shooting first to see how well it shoots, then make a decision. This gun isn’t going to be a competition gun so I’m not looking for 1/4moa, just a fun antelope/deer gun that I may shoot out to maybe 5-600yds. If it shoots 1/2-3/4moa, I would be very happy with that. I bought some 139gr Scenars, Norma brass and have a few pounds of RL26.

If/when I decide to switch out barrels, I’m most likely going to do it myself. That sounds like a cool project and save some time and money!! I’ve kinda always wanted a 6.5-06 AI but I’m pretty happy with the 6.5 x 284 and will stick with that cartridge

Love the replies y’all! Keep them coming!

Elk Country

That barrel probably left Savage with a washboard surface down the bore, My brother had one in 6.5x284 that was rough as a plowed field but shot ok and was terrible to clean......Any of the forementioned prefits would be an upgrade.

I'd buy a Criterion from Northland Shooter Supply, again.
If you buy a Shilen it's gonna be cheaper to get it through a broker than it will be to buy direct. Jerry The Barrel Man or Northland have both handled mine.

You've already heard, Buy the wrench and headspace gauge. Watch some youtube videos on a Savage barrel swap and we can help steer you bit too.

My Savage barrel swap was to a 22-243 AI. No proper head space gauges available.

I placed a freshly necked down 243 case into the chamber and placed one thickness of carbon paper from a credit card machine behind the cartridge, in front of the bolt. Screwed the barrel up to contact the cartridge and tightened the barrel nut.

When done, the bolt closed freely on the brass, but would not close with two thicknesses of carbon paper. Though I do not know where you will find an old fashioned credit card machine these days.

It was headspaced perfectly for my ammunition.

If one is working with other than a wildcat, same procedure with a factory cartridge. (Pull the bullet, and dump the powder first)

Or buy a go-no go set of head space gauges from Midway. It appears a set for the 284 will run about $100. If you get there before they are gone.

If you do it yourself. You should have a go-gage at minimum. By a set of cheap feeler gauges and use scissors to cut a circle to use to set head space. I would use a .003" leaf

Jeezus Fhuqk you CLUELESS Droolers are a hoot! Now you are cutting out doilies and using Headspace Scissors? Do you rent an unknown foot,to fit boots before purchase too? Hint. Fhuqking LAUGHING!

Call James as cited,roll Criterion and forget all things Shilen. Nab some good brass,which sure as fhuqk ain't Norma and simply set positive headspace to same. Positive means you feel/see bolt resistance and a Sharpie smear upon the casehead and datum of same. I'd MUCH prefer to mechanically locate false shoulders via 284 Virgins,sized in my 6.5-284 die,over arbitrary placement of the datum by the Factory and especially fhuqking Norma. Positive resistance means case life,Precision and Safety. If you feel nothing,it's time to be aspooked,for opposite reasons. Hint.












It's never been difficult to savvy who shoots and who don't. Hint.

P.S. and by the way...don't forget that a 6.5-284 shooting ping Pong balls,will be eclipsed by a 264 Kreed' shooting good ones. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!....................

Go ahead and shoot the donor. Give it the best cleaning you're willing to do. Ugly lookie can be pretty shootie. You could also attack the bore with lapping compound, pour yourself some lapping jags and bring a dead one back to life, at least for a while.

I've got several 10/110 actions and Stick is pretty much correct. Cases properly FL sized in your dies with a bit (for me, not a lot, one or two fingers worth) of preload hasn't presented any issues while giving minimal case working upon firing. Brass shim stock (KS) discs are effective as verification of working headspace.
If you want a gage, then get a gage. If you trust yourself and are careful, you can try the case method. But that will be a custom headspace and factory loads might not be a good idea without careful verification.

GOOD brass,GOOD dies and a False Shoulder,fueled with a shred of sense,has NO fhuqking equal. Thus the propensity. Hint.

Doing so,simply indexes the datum for finite control and if/when forced to slum some schit over the counter,it is a breeze to remove the striker assembly and KNOW how same interacts,in regards to finite headspace CONTROL. "Magic Scissors" and paper or metal doilies,will NOT/can NOT do same. Most are 100% fhuqking CLUELESS in how to set up a Sizer or a Seating Die,which never ain't not hilarious. Hint.

Positive Headspace is THE Gift that keeps on giving,as it correlates Case Life,Precision and Safety. Hint.

Coupla thousand words,in regards to THE Incredible HULK(280 SALAMI) and Lapooey false shouldered 'Twat-Six Virgins,to a Square Smooch ala 180 ELD. never trim a case,again. Hint.









Barrels are too cheap and a consumable by default,to fhuqk around and chase one's tail with. The only thing I put in my bores,are fhuqking bullets,save an initial Baseline Cleaning and/or Saltwater Immersion(it happens). Hint.

Bolt resistance upon a sized case,is a Rifle's BEST Friend. Once nipped...simply kiss,find pressure and rock on. Hint...................

I’ve put on about a half dozen criterions for myself & friends and all have shot fantastic.

Criterions are pretty much a no brainer when rebarreling a savage.

Brass is always an unknown. Smart to use gauges. You might get lucky with using brass but you might end up with a chamber that is too tight or too loose.

I may have chambered up a barrel or a hundred...

DUMBfhuqk...brass is KNOWN,if given a thunk greater than you can manage. Hint.

GOOD brass,GOOD dies and a False Shoulder,fueled with a shred of sense,has NO fhuqking equal. Thus the propensity. Hint.

No need to reiterate,that you are an INCREDIBLY fhuqking sloooowwwwwww "learner". Hint.

Just how in the fhuqk are "Magic Scissors" and a fhuqking doilie,going to curtail ANYTHING? Gals who "know" and "do" as "much" as you,will always be best served by asking questions,rather than giving "answers". Hint.

Bless your heart for trying though.

Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!...............

Sorry that you're too dense to understand anything about chambering rifle barrels. You probably don't own a single reamer, headspace gauge or any other tooling. Scissors and shim stock just lets a guy avoid buying 2 gauges. I can't help it if you are too Neanderthal to grasp this. I've seen way too many pieces of brass that were not close enough to set headspace with. But of course you are the world's finest gunsmith, rifleman, marksman and goldfish killer...
Done with this. I hate mud wrestling with a pig

DUMBfhuqk,

PLEASE cite the chambering,brass manufacturer and die manufacturer that "conspired" to trip you up and "allowed" "Magic Scissors" and a doilie,to save your "high precision" "project"...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

It will ONLY come as a "surprise" to you,that you were DONE welllllll before you fhuqking started. I enjoy that you "think" your Magnificent Fhuqking STUPIDITY is a "choice". It's a plight Sweetheart and them differences are wayyyyyy beyond "stark". Read that again. Now one more time. Hint. Fhuqking LAUGHING!

Now if only for added perspective,feel free to cite what you "do" for a "living",that embraces your "acumen","motor skills","mechanical understanding" and "intelligence",given that a piece of brass whipped your ass and a fhuqking doilie SAVED you. Hint. Fhuqking LAUGHING!

While there was no need to touch upon your VERY Tender Feelers and countless Insecurities,it was a nice touch and you Melting Snowflakes certainly have that nailed down. Hint.

Bless your heart,for doing your HILARIOUS best.

Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!...................

Stick, how do you headspace a barrel, off of a stick of 30-06 brass that you necked down to create a false shoulder for a 280 chamber, without a gauge. Did you just randomly create that shoulder wherever you felt like it? Measured from case head to false shoulder/neck junction and compared to a chamber drawing? Have a real gunsmith set the headspace and then create false shoulders to fit snug? It's pretty funny to see you make stuff up when you're discussing this stuff with people who actually know when you're full of it.

270cry,

I VERY much enjoy,how your Mind Numbing STUPIDITY,is no "Act"...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

You Drooling DUMBfhuqks are a hoot! It is fhuqking fascinating,that a piece of brass,set of dies and a barrel can soooooooo very reliably stump you CLUELESS Kchunts. Then trumpets sound and "Magic Scissors" appear,with a doilie to THE "Rescue"! Hint. Fhuqking LAUGHING!

The only thing you Crying Karens "shoot",is your mouths and Imaginations. It is funnier than fhuqk,that you wish to PROVE same,with a Woke Melting Snowflake Victim Routine. Read that again. Now one more time. Hint.

I could give less than ZERO fhuqks about a chamber drawing,though undoubtedly you'd need a map to find the schitter. Why in the fhuqk would I measure anything,when I can place a datum anywhere I wish,with brass of repute and mechanical index of same,in relation to positive headspace. Does your Fhuqktardedness "tell" you that it "matters" if it's an OEM offa' da' shelf Rifle or Custom? DO "elaborate" and spare no "details",because it will be funnier than fhuqk if you "try". Dare ya'. PLEASE use all of the slack on the rope,you "think" you can "handle". Hint. Fhuqking LAUGHING!

Lemme fuel your DUMBfhuqktitude even further. OEM positive headspace ala 260 Virgins. HINT.




Joe Average sure in the fhuqk ain't very bright and I appreciate you Fhuqktards reiterating same,if only obliviously. Hint.

Bless your heart for trying though.

Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!.................

The thing is, 'Stick, certainly no brain trust, is operating on the assumption that factory brass is so variable that he might as well treat each rifle and every chambering, as a wildcat. He doesn't care what the headspace measurement actually is, because he plans to go through the false shoulder, fireform, BS anyway. If one wants his brass to fit a certain chamber with no stretch, even on the first firing, this is a decent way to do it. It is also a concept simple enough for even the simple minded to grasp on to. Witness the embracing of this technique by the little stick boy.
A rifle builder or gunsmith who is fitting a barrel, has to assume that the user will, at some point, be firing factory brass or ammo; so he chambers to a given HS dimension (or tries to). He doesn't have the luxury of just chambering to any old dimension and then fireforming brass to fit. He has to make it right and count on the brass manufacturer to do the same.
A friend of mine, who is a barrel maker, would often chamber barrels using a case, which was necked up then sized in the customer's FL die, as a gauge. He would chamber to produce a slight "feel" and figured that was perfect; and it was, usually.
For myself, I chambered a 6BR with the shoulder blown forward .030. For the initial firing, the case headspaced on the case mouth. I cut the chamber to be .003" shorter than the brass. This allowed me to turn the neck down past the neck/shoulder juncture, priot to fire formimg, and avoid the donut.
Installing a pre-chambered barrel to fit a piece of sized brass (false shoulder or not) will work just fine with that brass and dies but it may not be anything like an industry standard. GD

As long as a guy is setting a rifle up for self and building ammo to fit that chamber, it is of little import if that headspace matches SAAMI specs or not.

Ex: Savage in 22-250 with bolt set back enough to accept no-go gauge. Early days, I did not know I could easily adjust headspace on the rifle.

Instead I ran a 243 expander through all of my brass, the necked it down just enough to chamber with positive headspace. I put about 1000 rounds through it that way.

Would a guy do so for a paying customet? Of course not.

Would I sell that rifle? Not on your life! Not even to an enemy.

It was later rechambered to the aforementioned 22-243AI.

Well, with all of my basement finish duties and daughter’s wedding over, I finally got a chance to take it out and shoot today! Loaded up 5-139gr. Lapua Scenars in new Norma brass and 53-55gr of RL26 in .5gr increments with an OAL of 3.100”. Really nothing to write home about. 54gr. and 55gr shot around 3/4” or a touch bigger. Not horrible but of course I was hoping for better. Gonna try again in some Lapua brass and CCI 200 LRPs and play with seating depth. This is a hunting gun and if I had to go out tomorrow I’m sure I’d hit where I aimed, but I want to see the true potential of this barrel. If 3/4” is it, I damn sure will be screwing on a new 26” SS Criterion over the winter!

Thanks for the help guys!

Elk Country