Got a Rem 700 Stainless 300 win Mag and a Rem 700 ADL in 7 Rem Mag in stock config and they both shoot well. I'm bored and trying to decide on which one to go custom on and leaning towards the 7 RM for a '23 elk hunt. I have plenty of reloading components for both and don't want to wildcat one or the other.

- Caliber - Most likely 7RM - shooting 175-180 grain pills (love the 7mm bullets)
- AG alpine hunter or McMillan Game Hunter carbon stock (have a bunch of McMillan's and want to try another maybe?)
- Proof Sendero light carbon barrel at 21" or 22"
- Detachable or blind magazine
- Suppressor will be my Omega 300
- Weight goal all loaded with Suppressor (10.5 lbs max)
- NXS 2.5-10x42
- I hate recoil

Questions:
1) Any of you have any builds in the Rem Mag or Win Mag with a 20-22" barrel for a suppressed rig...like it?
2) Is there anything out there for ADL/BDL that would allow 3 magnum rounds in the belly without a detachable mag?

FWIW: I have a Southern Precision Rifle (SPR) built .280 AI @ 7.4 lbs that has taken an Elk and Muley with 160 partitions. It sports a #2 rock barrel and I won't attempt to suppress it. Been a while since I've posted.

I believe you are wasting a lot of powder with those short barrels on magnums.. Might as well go with a 7mm-08 and a .308 that short./

I believe you are wasting a lot of powder with those short barrels on magnums.. Might as well go with a 7mm-08 and a .308 that short./

I'd go 8 twist 7mm barrel, 21", blind magazine, and throat cut to allow 180 scenars to work nicely. Look for RL26, H1000, or Retumbo. Good luck.

I have a Sig SHR 970 in 7 Mag that I had cut to 21" and threaded for a can. It's absolutely lights out on MT elk, very low recoil (thanks to the can...I run a Sandman Ti) and an absolute pleasure in the field. I use 139 gr GMXs in my reloads and they work great on the smaller elk that I prefer to eat.

PTG canoe style bottom metal will allow you to get 3 down easily in a BDL. Make sure you get the right mag box length. I've put these in every 700 I own/have owned.
https://pacifictoolandgauge.com/141...-well-canoe-floor-plate-bottom-metal-bdl

I think you'd want to go 20-21" with an Omega, unless you want a very long rifle. A 20" 7mm mag will definitely beat a 20" 7-08, by a lot.

I have a handful of suppressed WSMs with 5" cans and 22" barrels. Longer that this and they get pretty unwieldy but everyone has their own standard.

Why not suppress the Beanland? Just about all my rifle cans are hung on either sporter weight or #2 barrels. I have a suppressed model 7 with a 7" suppressor on a factory pencil barrel (though it's short). No impact on mechanical accuracy, some improvement on practical accuracy, especially on the magnums. The Model 7 barrel looks like a sewer pipe inside but still shoots 120 NPTs into .4 Moa with a 7 inch can. If I put a 9" can on it, accuracy drops to 1moa--not sure if its the weight or the longer lever, etc.

You have plenty of options.

Tx35, Exactly what is the speed of a 20" 7mm mag? Maybe I am missing something...

I don't know either the whole idea sounds retarded to me. Mb

Feel free to read Mule Deer's extensive discussions about this. But in my personal experience, shortening and threading a bunch of different barrels for supressors--same barrel, same chamber, same ammo--
7WSM lost 38fps per inch cut (Win factory 150gr power points)
300 Win Mag lost 34 fps per inch (Fed factory 180 partitions)
338 Win mag lost 30 fps per inch (Fed factory 250 partitions)

It's not magic. 70 grains of powder burning in 20 inches of barrel makes the bullet go faster than 45 grains of powder burning in the same space.

Have you done this yourself and gotten different results? Or are you repeating something you read? Or do you not remember?

I like long barrels on unsuppressed rifles but if you're suppressing something you're going to end up with a short barrel to keep the rifle portable. Everyone who shoots with a can knows this; we all have data on our short barrels and our long barrels.

So unless you've actually done this yourself and chronoed the results, you're just talking bullchit.

Doesn’t seem retarded to me. Probably be 120-150fps loss going from a normal(ish) 24” to 20”. Still a lot more gas in the tank than a 20” 7-08.

That’s damn near sig line worthy.

That is why I ask.. I can't feature a 20" .300 or 7 mag. So that would make a .300 drop from 3100 with a 180 to 2850 fps..

Wyo, but if one is dialing a scope, that's a mute point.

Better rangefinders, better bullets and better dialing scopes shun old-school thought that it's gotta be "x" speed to be worthwhile.

Go 6.5 PRC at 24" and forget about the suppressor.....

Jeff- care to expound on "forgetting the suppressor"?

SK, I see your point, But where I hunt you often don't get time to range and dial.. But if that's what the point is I see what you mean... Thanks.

SK, I see your point, But where I hunt you often don't get time to range and dial.. But if that's what the point is I see what you mean... Thanks.

A 136 fps drop in velocity between a 24" and 20" in a 300 Win Mag with a 180 Accubond will make a whopping 1.8" difference in drop at 400 yards in the atmospherics I generally hunt. If one is worried about point and shoot capability, cutting the barrel down a few inches isn't going to screw up your plan.

To the OP, 20" would be good for a dedicated suppressed rig, and only that long because the can isn't rated for shorter lengths in "magnums".

I figured this would drive a few opinions. Appreciate the responses from all and thanks. Really like that PTG link on the canoe style, thank you TX35W! I found some great studies on accurateshooter.com cutting down the 7RM and the 300RM from 28" to 20" in 1" intervals. Not to shabby on the fps loss.

Also have a Beanland 7-08 with a rock #3 finished at 22"....don't think it will sling 168's or 175's as fast though!

Not sure if he's using the suppressor for recoil purposes on his magnums...if so, the 6.5 PRC does not need a suppressor for that reason (recoil), and the 6.5 PRC will kill elk with no worries.

If he wants a suppressor for other reasons...a shorter barrel would probably be better for hunting.

I've often thought that a 20" 300 SAUM makes sense with one of the shorter/fatter cans they are making these days. Some of the modern midsize suppressors only add about 6-6.5" and 10-13oz when going direct thread attachment. For hunting, I'd not need it to be "hearing safe" like a 308 bolt gun, but it would be nice to get it down a fair bit in DB and knock off the edge when in the field. There are even 5" suppressor options out there that can tame things a good bit.

Only other thing I'd throw in on the can stuff is the realities of mounting these things to barrels. I've found that if you are using a mount, rather than direct threat, you can go a bit under the generally recommended .100 of barrel shoulder engagement. The thread pitch I use on most of my guns is 9/16x24. The threads themselves are about .560 so to get to .100 of barrel shoulder you'd be at .660 which is bigger than most sporter barrels.

On a direct thread, I think that in the long run you'd have issues beating the shoulder up if you went much skinner than .100, but if you use a mount and red loctite, I have used a muzzle diameter as small as .620, which is what a lot of #2 barrels finish at at around 20-21". Basically because the mount stays on forever and any abuse of attaching and reattaching the can is taken by the mount itself, rather than the skinny barrel shoulder. Dunno if that makes sense or not. But for that reason I've drifted away from direct threads. If you run heavier barrels it's a toss up on that issue.

TX35W - have you noticed any accuracy drop off in using a QD mount vs. the direct thread?

Absolutely none, with the qualification that I'm only talking about the Thunderbeast CB mounts, which use big triangular shoulder--huge amount of surface area compared to a flat barrel shoulder. Wipe the carbon off the mating surfaces and they go back to the same POI every time. A few other companies use this design, too, I think.

I've noticed that mounts that lock or ratchet do not seem to be consistent enough for serious shooting; probably better off using direct thread on those styles.

The group on paper is a 20.5" #2 7-08 with a 5" can (100yards); the group on steel is a 20" Remington sporter profile 35 Whelen with a 7" can (730 yards). Both are benchmark barrels. Point of the pictures is that fairly light barrels with suppressors can still shoot lights out. At least for shorter strings.

This is maybe a little better; this group is from a 23" 300 WSM with a sporter weight Krieger (.650 at muzzle) and 5" can. This gun has more of a target stock; the others have sporter stocks.

This is a 300 yard group (I think technically it was 290 yards) that I didn't mean to be a group; I wanted to see if taping the suppressor would change POI, even if only a little. I broke my position after every shot, put fresh duct tape over the suppressor, then re-established my position again. But once again, these lighter weight barrels will shoot with cans.

Good info. Appreciate it.

with age you get wisdom , so in the past when i was younger i killed a few elk bulls with my bow and i had to track these great animals on a blood trail, the last bull i killed was with a 270 W.mag. and had a small blood tracking job to get that bull , but now as my age is now 68 years old i know longer want to track a wounded bull elk , so i will be up in a tree stand with a 338 Lapua with a 28 inch barrel or what i call a no track`em rifle. wish you and myself both good luck , Pete53

This kinda contradicts traditional logic in the age/wisdom context.

Well, I have something similar to what you're asking about.

Rem 700 LA, with long Wyatt box and Hawkins BDL BM. Timney 532, straight shoe, 2-stage trigger. Proof Research Light Weight Mountain Hunter stock. Barrel is a 24" Bartlein, 8 twist, "green" carbon wrapped by my friend and gunsmith, Travis Bennett of Spanish Fork, Utah. The guys at Carbon 6 saw his work and called to send kudos to him. His carbon wrapping is phenomenal. He's wrapped 3 barrels for me and it won't stop there. The NF NXS Compact 2.5-10x42 with Velocity 600 reticle is mounted in Talley LW's. We at Barnes Bullets recently announced or new 208 LRX bullet. I've been shooting it since last Fall, when I had the rifle built. I run a Thunderbeast 9" Ultra.





I ran a few 5-shot groups at 1k yesterday, truing up my Kestrel 5700 Elite bluetoothed to my Leica 3200.com's.

Well that...is beautiful. How is that 8 twist on thinner bullet jackets? Guessing a 10 twist won't cut it for the 208?

Interesting thread and great information. What can are you running with the Whelen? I’m putting together my Whelen right now and I’m setting it up with the Hybrid. At least that way I can swap it out on the .338WM.

If you are running the Hybrid (not a lot of bigger bore choices in 7”) how do you like it?

Great set up GSSP!

I'm guessing you are referring to my post and if so.....

One can use a 8.5 twist with our 208 LRX. Have not shot any cup n core 208's so I don't have an answer for you. The Hornady website suggest a minimum of 1:10 for their 208 ELD Match.

Alan

Aces: interested to hear how yours turns out. A while back I asked TB if they would make a .358 ultra 7 and they said yes. The shop foreman had already written the program and I guess he was looking for an excuse to run one. Baffles and end cap will pass a .419 pin gauge. They have the program written so they might do more if you asked.

I think the hybrid has more volume; will probably be quieter. Maybe a little more recoil reduction.

Thanks TX35W. I’m likely going to be waiting awhile before I can get a decent report out, it’s just a matter of the Beijing Biden jackboots approving another one for me. 😁

I’ve wanted a Whelen ever since I read about it as a young kid. I don’t know why I waited so long but I guess I “needed” all the other rifles that are in my rack a little more. I’ve never been needing for medium or big bores but this is my niche rifle. 20” 700 suppressed 35 Whelen for my all around SE AK rifle. I’m looking forward to seeing what the Hybrid will do but it’s “rated” up to an 18” .338 Lapua so I’m not worried about stressing it too much. I won’t be rapid firing….I hope. 😁

I very much dislike detachable magazines unless it’s a M14.

As others have stated, as much as I like the 7mm RM ( I have two), I wouldn't do a 7mm RM with a short barrel, 24" is my minimum for the 7. Based on your specs, I'd choose the 308 Win for this build.

You will place zero stress on that can, for sure. 58-60 grains of powder at the end of a fat 20" tube...prob has the same muzzle pressure as a 24-26" 30-06.

Looking forward to hearing how it turns out for you.

I've got 3 suppressed .358 bore rifles, used 9/16x24 threads for all of them. If you go this route instead of 5/8x24 (which requires a bigger muzzle diameter) definitely ask whoever cuts the threads to make the depth of the undercut as shallow as possible, not any deeper than the min thread diameter.

If he weren't running a suppressor, a 20" magnum anything wouldn't make that much sense, but with a suppressor, a 24" barrel makes equally little sense. Short barrels are the standard for people who run cans. You lose *some* velocity but 70 grains of powder in barrel length X still pushes a bullet much faster than 45 grains of powder in the same barrel.

When I chopped my 7WSM I lost 75-80 fps. It is still 400 fps faster than my 7-08 shooting the same bullets at the same (close to max) pressure from a similar barrel length.

I happen to dislike short unsuppressed barrels but that isn't what we're talking about.