My first foray into building a custom and would like some assistance before I start.

First, is the Ruger American Rifle a good action in 30-06 to start with? This won't be a super expensive custom else I'd go with a specialty action.

Second, thinking about rechambering to 338-06? Or maybe to something else. Options? 6.5-06?

Lastly, what are good cost effective barrels, just trying to get my feet wet in this custom game and all. Would like a helical flute possibly, slightly heavier weight than Sporter.


Can Ruger bolts be fluted?

Thanks all...I'm sure I'll have lots more questions.

It seems (to me anyway) that going to the expense of helically fluting a barrel to put on an el cheapo action like the RAR would be somewhat incongruous. Same for fluting the bolt.

I can see the sense however in going with an inexpensive 338-06 (or 6.5-06) aftermarket bbl on that action if you just wanted that chambering.

Hell a smart fellow might even be able to turn that setup into a switch barrel. The action itself seems solid enough but the magazines and stocks are fairly flimsy.

Some guys get too wrapped up in the initial cost of the rifle and base their reasoning on that. In reality, you'd be better off with the American action than some of the others commonly used for custom builds. I'd choose it over the 700 for example, although someone will be along shortly to declare that heresy.

They do use a barrel nut like a Savage, so that's a plus, and that big thick bolt is a good thing. I'm sure you could have it fluted if you want. Triggers are easy to improve on these with a little work, or replace with aftermarket. Stocks and chassis systems are becoming more available.

I don't think "helical flute" goes with "good and cost effective" though when it comes to barrels. For whatever a fluted barrel costs, you could spend the same money to get a better quality unfluted barrel.

I think that the Marlin XL7 or Remington 700 SPS are both better actions to build on than the RAR.

Ok. I hear you all. Just saw a Ruger for sale locally pretty cheap that's new in box and got my gears turning.

My thoughts were just to use the action. New stock. New trigger. New barrel. Maybe helical not in the mix, just something I think looks neat, same with the fluted bolt or skelontized bolt handle. By inexpensive, I mean not spending $3000-$4000 on a custom.

It's your money, so you can do whatever you want with it.

Some of us have put together multiple rifles on a variety of platforms. Not all have been successful and some might not have been very good ideas when viewed in retrospect. It is easy for a built to get out of hand and more expensive than planned when the money is spent just a few dollars at the time.

Good luck!

Thanks...guess I'll pass.

Was thinking I could get it done for around a grand give or take plus the smith work. $250 for rifle, $300 for new stock, $150 for a trigger, $300 for a barrel and whatever for the smith work. Unless my numbers are way off. Which they very well could be.

Keep my eyes open for a cheap 700.

What's a good round off that 30-06? Just want something slightly different, maybe not for you all in this forum but for me and guys I shoot with. And not necessarily off a 30-06.

Rebarrel job should run 6-700 with smith work and barrel... lots of machining

I didn't plan on a re-barrel. Just buy one already chambered.

The idea of a custom rifle is to end up better than where you started, but the kind of money you're talking about will actually move you backwards for several reasons:
1. You're replacing purpose-built parts with aftermarket parts that will need fitting to be as good as the original ones.
2. You'd be the guinea pig. The RAR doesn't have the decades of knowledge that have accumulated around the 98 Mauser, Model 70 Winchester, or Remington 700.
3. A $300 stock will probably either be a POS, need a lot of work, or both. If you can do the work, then you can save money. If not, then add another $200 for adding a recoil pad, glass bedding, plain paint job, and a free-floated barrel. That leaves you with a $300 POS stock that might not work right. I'd go ahead and cough up the bucks for a McMillan or something of that ilk.
4. $150 for a trigger is probably about right for a Mauser, Winchester, or Remington, but I understand that the RAR has a pretty good trigger already, so I'm not sure you need to replace it.
5. The RAR has a good reputation for accuracy because the barrels are pretty good, and a $300 barrel probably won't shoot as well as the factory one. Even if you go with a pre-chambered barrel, still count on about $100 to get it set up and headspaced properly. Again, you can save if you can do the work, but I still feel like you're still taking a chance with a $300 barrel. Like someone else said, a barrel that's worth owning and properly installed starts around $6-700.

Finally, Ruger adds new cartridges to the RAR line every couple of weeks, I'd hold off on getting something just to be different--they'll probably offer what you had built just after you take delivery of your custom. I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but having built several bargain-basement customs, I think that their main value is teaching shooters why spending another $1,000 to $1,500 is a really good idea.


Okie John

The Howa / Vanguard is very underrated for custom builds and as they can be picked up cheaply down here I assume that's the same in the US. And while they're not as compatible with as many aftermarket parts as the 700, they are still quite well served in that respect.

As for chambering, what about a 6mm-06 in a fast twist barrel for something different?

Gunsmiths in the U.S. usually charge a little more to rebarrel actions that require metal to be cut to metric specs because their tools are normally set up to work in inches, not millimeters.

Great info guys. Like I said my first foray into a custom.

Thought the prices I listed were in the ballpark. B&C stock, timney trigger and ER Shaw barrel (the barrel I found was for a Savage and was chambered and rifled already but didn't look hard for others).

That's why I asked you all here for advice. Guess I'll keep looking or just boot the idea.

Thanks again guys!

One of the reasons that I like Marlin X guns for economic builds is that you can install Savage small shank specs barrels on them with minimal work and there are a lot of inexpensive Savage take-off barrels floating around.

Ok... That's the info I don't know and need to learn. What barrels are interchangeable.

Maybe a dumb question, but if you don't know, you don't know till you ask.

What's the difference between small shank and large shank?

Thanks again!

+1

If you go ahead with this I would go no further than replacing the stock. After that it's flushing money down the toilet. If you do a full on rebuild and just don't like it------------ who's going to buy it if you want to sell ?????????????????

Your dough, but I'd look elswhere. The charm of the RAR is the price/performance ratio. Whatever you do, it will still be a cheapo, just not cheap. The exception to this is adding a chassis system. There are some nice looking ones and you can probably save some money over a factory model, maybe. I've seen two very positive reviews of the Precision Rifle in .223 and as a result might lean that way for a target or PD gun (if we had any PDs!).

Like I said, your dough, but there are so many nice new models out there now I just can't see blowing serious money on something like that.

Find the thread here from the guy with $900 in a Marlin that he can't sell if you want a real-life example.

I am in the process of gathering what I need to do a build/rebuild similar to what you are doing. I am wanting a handy little rifle in a 250 Savage, for no other reason than because I want a rifle in that caliber without spending a lot of money. I am getting it to hunt with, not to look at. On the advice of 260Remguy, I have gotten a Marlin XS7 in a 243 Win to use for the action (cost-225), instead of a Savage action which I had originally planned for.

I just found a Boyd's laminated stock for sale here on the Fire for 90 that I am waiting on. I originally was going to get a Boyd's walnut stock with checkering. When I saw the laminate stock here for that price, I decided to go ahead and get it, and if all works out with the rifle I will get the stock I want a little ways down the road and possibly look at doing another build like this one with the laminate stock.

I am looking at an ER Shaw barrel as well. I am unsure if I am going to buy the barrel and do the job myself...or send it to them and have the barrel done. I want to do it myself, but after reading and reading some more about the subject I am unsure if I will do it or not. Some say that the short shank barrel with match up with no problems and others say the barrel will need to be set back just a little bit. So I am still undecided on that end of it. I really want to do it myself, so we will see. Good luck with your project!

PS...for the last 6 yrs. or so, I have hunted almost exclusively with a Marlin 7 in a 25/06, and I love the little rifle. So for the build, I am okay with the trigger on the rifle so I won't be changing it out.

Let's put it this way. You end up with $1100 in a RAR. You decide to sell it. You might recoup $300 for a used one, but only if you find someone that agrees ,with your ideas.

I have done two custom builds. After a while I get bored with most things. Bottom line is that I lost all of the custom work fees when it came time to sell.

I have a custom stocked late 50s FN that someone decided to sell. The stock just happens to work for me. I gave less than what the labor for the custom stock would have been at the time for the rifle. Someone took a bath on that one. I also have a custom hand engraved and beautifully stocked 1903 Springfield that cost me an ordinary handgun almost 40 years ago. Both of these rifles are shooters.

I can see a younger man doing a build on a pre 64 M70 or a desirable Mauser and hunting it for a lifetime, but you will not get out on that at anywhere near a grand. Do the RAR, and I bet you will want to try a better rifle shortly.

Your money, your choice. Be happy, but be warned.

Jack

Thanks all.... I passed on the rifle.

The project will be put on hold indefinitely. And keep my eyes open for a cheap Marlin or Remington action.

Thanks again for all the information.

Good luck.

Hey notwithstanding the above useful info from 260RG, don't discount the Howa / Vanguard for a build. They are a great starting point too and I would option one above the Marlin and not far off the 700.

A secondhand Zastava for a long action wouldn't suck either.

Keep your eye out for a custom that someone has already sunk the money into, but now no longer needs (or needs cash more than a rifle).

I've done the "let's just customize the rifle a little" route. Seems like a good idea, but here's what happens.

Remington 700 action - $350
Bolt Flute - $100
New bolt knob - $80
Cerakote bolt - $60
Cerakote barreled action - $200
New Stock - $600
New Firing Pin - $110
New Trigger -$120
New Trigger Guard - $30
Other Misc. Stuff - $100
Stuff I paid for and blocked from my mind - $????

And that is how you spend way too much on an action you could never sell for what you put into it.

If you can find an action that someone has already done the work on, you can typically pick it up for pennies on the dollar. If you are not in a rush and have some flexibility on caliber, you can get some great deals. Just know what your looking for and check gunbroker, gunsinternational, classifieds here, etc.

Good post. Ought to cool a few jets.

good post... agreed.

Good forum to toss ideas and get feedback from others who have been there/done that. Learn from mistakes and mistakes of others

I know I'm a novice when it comes to stuff like this, all my rifles are factory rifles and some shoot VERY well. But would like to get into a custom in a custom caliber. I recently purchased one from the fire in the form you explained, someone did the work already (trigger, barrel, stock, off a Savage action in a wildcat caliber). But would like to do my own at some point. And by no means in a hurry. So, keep my eyes open for 'deals'.

Thanks again all!

I'd start with the following:

What do I intend to do with the rifle - quarry I'll be chasing etc.?
How much do I plan on shooting it?
Lastly, you should probably land on whether you're going to use a 30.06 based action or not - it'll help narrow chambering options.

Twer it me dipping a toe into my first custom foray, I'd not do it in "something different", I'd do it in a chambering that's something I like already and one I'm familiar.

I have had and hunted with .338-06 for five or six years. Not going for really big stuff, I found the 200 Speer and the 210 Nosler most useful. A 6.5-06 might also be very useful. Either might cure your itch. The .338 can easily be accomplished with a rebore job. The 6.5 will require a new barrel, unless you find a long shanked smaller caliber that could be set back.

Good luck,

Jack

You know, there are LOTS of very, very nice rifles in the $1,000 range that would keep their value when you decide you want something else later on - think Sako, Kimber, Winchester (FN) Featherweight...

I've built around 50 custom Remington 700's in the last three years and they have several inherent shortcomings. I've spent hours machining remedies for these problems. A few of these shortcomings are done away with by the simple design of the RAR action. I have been wanting to build a custom off of a RAR for a while now and the trigger/ tang safety is the only thing that has stopped me. The Rap receiver is bored and turned on a lathe therefore making it necessarily concentric. This is a big plus over the broached, cast, or EDM cut bolt ways of the typical factory two lug actions. The bolt of the RAR is almost completely made on the lathe of a single piece of steel. This makes it almost fool proof to produce a bolt with perpendicular bolt lugs and bolt face. Most factory bolts have several pieces, a cylindrical body, a soldered or pinned bolt head with the lugs in it. This is not the best way to make something straight and true. That's why these bolts need turning and actions need truing. Now it would be nice if Ruger would grind the bolt body or at least decrease the feed rate of the lathe to improve the finish so it doesn't look like a piece of threaded rod. However the three lug bolt and action makes for a much more stable, inherently accurate platform than a two lug action. The nature of the triangle will naturally reduce alignment errors and more evenly distribute forces from expanding gases. The slotted bolt handle is nice too, removing the need to solder or weld on the bolt handle makes It easier to chanage and stronger than the Remington that fails due to hard use or an unfortunately weak solder joint. The RAR also has a nice side bolt release like almost all custom actions. I don't know why Remington doesn't update that terrible bolt release! The twin recoil lug recesses seem innovative albeit frustrating to the stock maker. I am not sure how I feel about these, I think I would just leave out the ruger recoil lugs and add a flat ground Remington style recoil lug and bed the stock like usual. I like how the top of the action is continuous making for a good solid platform for scope mounting. Why in the world is Remington still milling the top off of the rear of the action? It would be so much easier to leave it round like savage has done in recent years. I understand they do it so they will not have to update the scope mount stuff since there are 100million Remington scope bases out there, but they could make a 21st Centry new model 700 and sell another million... Anyway that's just my 2 cents on the subject. I don't care about name brands and I don't think that just because something costs more means it's better, and I also have the ability to make whatever I want it only costs me my free time, which I enjoy this stuff anyway so it's no sacrifice there. So my opinion is go for it if you have the money and imagination. If not, buy someone's lightly used custom and save yourself the depreciation and hassle.

If you do go ahead with a 338-06 a rebore of a 30-06 would be a good way to go and much cheaper than a new custom barrel, just a thought. I'm not sure that you can do a 6.5-06 from a 25-06 if you rebore, you might need to talk to a guy who does it to find out for sure.

Good post Timnterra. Always nice to hear someone unafraid to speak the alternate point of view.

I'm NO gunsmith but quite a few of them I speak to ventilate the same frustrations regarding working on the 700. Many declare it as a relatively poor starting point for a build, and that the only real thing it has going for it is all the off the shelf parts compatibility.

Anyway I enjoyed your post.

Yes thank you for that post Timnterra....

Maybe I'll revisit the build just to do something different. I have no plans to sell it, but one never knows what the future holds so never say never.

I like the idea of a 338-06. So just rebore the 30-06 barrel to 338.

We shall see....

Thanks again

Funny, I said the same things in the 3rd post above, but most guys still claim the 700 is a better way to go, because it's all they know. As Timnterra points out too, for a number of reasons the RAR action is a better basis to build on than the 700, or the Marlin and Howa actions also mentioned in this thread.

Don't let people talk you out of building on the RAR just because they are inexpensive.

IMO the RAR is as easy to build on as a Savage, it uses a similar barrel nut set up. The biggest issue will be getting the barrel nut off since it's smooth, which might require some heat to loosen or be cut off. Guys who use Savage rifles with the smooth barrel nut have limited success getting them off without cutting them, even with the proper smooth nut wrench. After that it would be as simple as ordering a barrel from your favorite barrel maker chambered in .338-06, and find a new grooved barrel nut that would use the slotted barrel nut wrench.

The biggest issue for me is the lack of stocks available for the RAR in using one for a build. Right now as far as I know there is only the Boyd's option for an 06 RAR, there is an MDT Chassis and Magpul stock but they're short action only. I think there was someone on the hunting rifle page that had a MPI or B&C modified to accept the RAR barreled action, but they were very cost prohibitive.

For your budget build I'd just go to Walmart and purchase a M700 ADL in .270 or .30-06 for around $400 out the door, you can probably sell the stock and scope and get $50 back. If you have access to an action wrench and barrel vise or purchase them, you can pull the barrel yourself. If you don't have or want to buy those two tools, take the rifle to a gunsmith and pay for the barrel to be pulled.

You can order a barrel set up with the Savage barrel nut and install/headspace the barrel yourself for around $350-400, plus you'll need a simple tool to center the recoil lug for about $45. Pick up a Timney, Trigger Tech or similar trigger for $150 or less, or have your factory trigger tuned. Then you have a lot of stock options for the M700 you can't get with most other of the DIY actions you can change barrels on with simple tools.