Hey guys,
I've been reading "Savage Collectors" for a while now and I have started to learn alittle bit at a time. 2012 is almost here and I would love to get my first 99. Can you guys recommend any reading material I can read to learn more about the certain models? I really want to narrow my choices before starting my search. Any recommendation will help....
Thanks for your help!
3 Stars

Get a premil F...any available caliber will do. You can thank me later!

Look through the above "sticky" post titled "misc. good info". One of the posts is for a book by Murray "The Savage 99". Good book, I got mine using the info provided.

Welcome to the forum 3 stars. A wealth of info available here, along with many strong and often disparate opinions on any topic! If caliber makes a difference to your planned use/enjoyment, pick that first. Then if possible go to some gunshows and put various models to you shoulder to get an idea of weight/barrel length/sight picture/feel that you might prefer. Most here recommend sticking with "pre-mil" (serial # below 1 million) as the better rifles although some might also disagree.

It won't matter too much what you get at first...the dang things are addicting and you will without question be adding other versions to your collection quickly.

Welcome--

+1 on the Murray book. Buy one on eBay before you start shopping seriously for a rifle. It's the best investment you'll make.

Take a look at the photos on this site for good comparisons of the various models: http://savagela.org/

I would agree with Jed's suggestion for a 1950s pre-mil model F, but everybody's tastes vary.

Rod

premil = Pre 1 million serial number/Pre-1960 = Walnut stock. Nice checkering

postmil = Post 1 million serial number/1960+ = Birch stock. Cheaper impressed checkering

F = Featherweight
EG = Standard weight
R = Heavyweight

E = Economy; many were made 1960+

There are other models but these 4 are generally the ones you'll come across most.

300 Savage was most popular chambering but factory ammo is now harder to find on store shelves and pricier ($30/box).

If you're looking for a shooter (non-collectable), expect to pay $400 +/- for one in relatively decent shape.

Pre-mil F in 300 would be hard to beat. Load it light for varmints, heavy for game. 22" barrel is all that's needed, and they're very light. I'm one of the weirdo's that happens to like USING the later tang safety models vs. the more collectible pre-mil lever safety models most of the guys recommend, from a convenience viewpoint. Your bolt gun buddies will look down their nose at you, or silently envy you, but you will kill stuff all the same.

+1

3stars,

Good advice above. Plus 1 on the premil F. Pre mil anything really.

Decide what you want each purchase for; collecting or hunting. Or both.

Keep reading the forum, you'll learn a bunch.

Savage made other quality rifles besides the 1899/99. Think rimfire.

I like Carbines, my personal favorite is the 99H:

Thanks everyone for your comments and information! I will continue to read this forum and continue to learn little by little!!! My first 99 will be for hunting, but I'm sure when the fever takes hold, some may be collectors! Keep the posts coming.... interesting to read what every suggests!!
Thanks again!!
3stars

If you reload, I'm going to suggest an EG in 300 Savage. Lots of flexibility if you don't have to rely on factory ammunition.

If you don't reload, a 1950's 99F in 308 can be hard to find but should be reasonably priced for a shooter.

Hey Calhoun
Thanks
Can I pick you brain on why an EG 300 ? My brother is now reloading, so that can help me out in the ammo choices.
Thanks a bunch

If I could have only one 99 to hunt with it would be a pre mil post war F.

If I could have 2, I have the F and an EG. And both would be 300 Savage.

Just sayin.

I learned from Calhoun that the EG and in 300 Savage was the most popular version at the time and therefore is still pretty easy to find at a decent price. I had my heart set on a 50's EG in 308 but this is a pretty rare bird...hence pricier.

I went with a 52 EG in 300 Savage. The EG has a shnable (sp?) fore end which I like the look of.

The best information available is not in any book but found on this forum. Not that I don't recommend Murray's book, I do, but there's a wealth of information found on this forum. Work your way backward here, while you read Murray's book and you will receive quite the education

Calhoun, would you want to recommend a post 900,000 but pre-mil (if in 308) due to the modifications Savage made post 900,000 and post 1 million? Or a post mil if an E model in 308? Just checking, not correcting!

I'd recommend the EG because it is the most common cartridge/model found out there for 99's, and is more of the classic 99 look with a schnabel forearm. I also prefer the thinner forearm for handling, those 99T's/99R's/99F's are nice but it doesn't feel as nice as a schnabel. The 99EG may weigh 8-12 ounces more than a 99F, but that's no biggie unless you're traipsing high into the mountains. Basically, it's a good starter 99 that's a DANGED good hunter. I'm also not a huge fan of pencil thin barrels like the 99F has, I've found they can be touchier about accuracy - just my opinion there.

The 300 Savage cartridge can be loaded low like a 30-30, and almost up to 308 velocities, so there's no real gain in paying the extra $$ for a 308 if you reload. If you don't reload, there's a ton of factory ammunition available for the 308 so I'd recommend it over the 300 Savage in that case.

The 1950's 99F and 99R will always be factory d&t. The 99R has the advantage of having sling eyes, the 99F has the advantage of being lightweight and having nicer checkering. Both are still pretty inexpensive and common in 300 Savage.

Any premil 99 in 308 will be in the 900,000 serial number range, so that's the ones to look for.

If looking for postmil guns, find one you like for a reasonable price. I've hunted with a 99C and it worked fine, owned 99E's and 99DL's. I don't like the impressed checkering or a lot of the 99E birch stocks, but you can find early postmils with cut checkering or later postmils with good checkering. Despite the scorn they get here in a collector's forum, I think almost all of the postmil 99's are good hunting rifles.

Thanks Everyone!
My lesson on 99's started with this first post! I will pick up Murray's book and continue reading this forum to continue my education! I know if I have any questions, where to ask....
Looking forward to learning more and then starting my search(gotta wrestle the $ from my wife and kids first). Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction!!!
3stars

All I can say is wow...that is a beauty! I'll let you guess if it's the deer or gun I'm referring to.

So I just bought Murray's book and am in the hunt for my next 99 as well. Went to the gun show a couple weekends ago didnt find anything other than .300's and one ratty .250-3000. I currently have a 1952 .300EG and would like to find the others before i get another .300. Was there an EG made in all original calibers? (.303, .22 hp, .250-3000, & .300) I really like the look and feel of the EG's... but i suppose i would take anything that came my way.

Sorry cant wait for the book to come to find my answer.

Thanks,
-Z-

There was an EG made in all of the original calibers as well as 30-30, 243, 308, and 358.

The book will have the answer and will be your guide for the next few years...

Good luck

My first 99 was an R in 250, and the only one I've hunted with. I now have ammo for my F takedown in 303, and a DL in 308. I'm taking the 2 latter guns on a pig hunt in Feb, so my opinion may get modified. But, for now, I love my 250. My longest shot so far was a measured 185 yards with a Win Silver Tip. The deer jumped what looked like 5 ft in the air and hit the ground in a pile. Neck shots drop like they were hit by a lighning bolt. I learned a lesson on the first deer I shot with the 250, don't shoot them on the shoulder.My first real deer gun was a Marlin 336 in 35 Rem. My favorite shot was right on the shoulder. The bullet would break both shoulders and usually keep going. You could always see the deer when it dropped. When I shot that first one with the 250, on the shoulder at about 60 yards, it jumped and took off like a rocket. The second shot hit it in the base of the neck going away and dropped it. When I skinned the deer, the shoulder the 250 hit, literally fell off the body with the skin. It looked like a black mass of jellow, and there were no signs of bullet fragments in the chest cavity. The 250 is plenty accurate for well placed shots out to at least 185 yards, and I guess quite a bit more. Just love mine, Joe.

87 grain bullets and the 250-3000 RULE!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've heard that quite often. For deer what bullet do you recommend? Thanks, Joe.

LBK,
I shoot 100 grain Barnes TTSX in a 250 Ackley, but they probably wouldn't stabilize in the slow twist of the older 250-3000. What game bullets are available in the 85-87 gr weights?

Speer and Or Hornady Still Makes Them In 87 Grn.

My 250 R was made in 1950, B LBC, and it shoots 100 grain Winchester Silver Tips and Remington PSP's quite well. From the bench on my short (5o yard) range one jagged hole is normal. I would only drop down to the 87's just to try them. I'll be going to the real range in a couple weeks to fine tune the 303 and the 308 for the pig hunt. I'll take the 250 and put my best efort into it and see what she does. As a matter of fact, my buddy took my dies and about 100 empty cases, and said he'll have 5 or 10 rounds loaded up with each powder and each bullet weight and style he has in his loading room. He has several 25 cal bolt guns and wanted to try the heavier stuff. I told him that my gun "should not" like the big stuff, we'll see, Joe.