Just after a bit of help, info and any thing else
After securing a Fantastic stock from a gentleman here on the forum I now find the while resurrecting the rifle from a custom made stock
a lot of parts were changed, as happens

I have a exploded parts picture but trying to work out which part goes where

Does anybody know of a assembly schematic parts drawing as I think I with have to make up some parts

Some have dotted lines to indicate position of assembly

Many thanks
Cheers

Numrich Gunparts Corp will have an exploded view of the 1920. Their site may not show you how everything goes together but you will see what the parts look like and if they have any in stock. Best of luck!

Yes I have that one thanks, no parts in stock for the bits I need
Cheers

I have that same illustration in an old gunsmithing book I found at a yard sale years ago. GP does have some parts for the 1920 - which I find a bit amazing. What are you missing?

Part no 25 but have just finished making that
Part 39 I need 1 of but can make that
Parts 41 & 42 they show 1 each, But when assembling I need 1 off each for the floor plate trigger guard
& 1 for the recoil lug
but what goes under the trigger plate #25 to hold the back take down Stub?
Cheers

I have some parts for the model 20, if you still need parts. my email: tal35-sav99REMOVETHIS@usa.net

Graham and everyone, I am in the middle of assembling a 1920/26 that was given to me I totally disassembled, I am documenting the assembly process and will be posting pictures of everything, I was going to wait until it was complete but might do it in installments - I do have a layout of all the stock mounting hardware other than the front barrel stud & screw which are missing and will need to be fabricated - they both are standard parts also used on the 99's. Graham, I sent you the pictures of the stock mounting hardware by email since you need that now.

The gun I have was totally disassembled, even the bolt was in pieces and there were a couple parts removed that were never intended to be taken off - to do this a part had to be broken.


Added, I went ahead and uploaded some of the pictures I have ready, only 6 can be displayed in one thread - I think these should help you -



older parts list



What I have to work with - came in a plastic bag -



It is missing a washer that goes with the short screw 20-2050 that threads into the bottom of the broken piece 20-2049 - this is under the trigger guard 20-99 when assembled

[img]https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/88949.jpg[/img
[img]https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/88950.jpg[/img
[img]https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/88951.jpg[/img
[img]https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/88952.jpg[/img
[img]https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/88953.jpg[/img

Brilliant info Gene
Thanks
Got to make up most of the parts on the lathe
The 20-58's I got some 1/4" UNF bolts turned the head down to the same Dimensions
as the originals and put the slot in on the milling machine
the trigger plate was easy enough just time consuming
The assembly screw Escutcheon was was easy
All that is left is the forearm screw
Anybody know what the tread is on part # 99-421
Cheers

Should be #8-40.

Part 20-58 in the earlier parts list is labeled '1 U 50 Assembly Screw Escutcheon' and is listed under the Assembly Screws... so I assumed it's the part the assembly screws go into... but the drawing looks more like a sling attachment escutcheon than the escutcheon for the assembly screws. This is the part I thought was 20-58, if not then this part is not listed -

UPDATE: from a post by Kiwi it seems the early parts were screw in and matched the the parts drawing, pictured below are later knurled 20-58's.

Thanks for this Gene, really great contribution to Savage 1920 preservation!
- How about the bolt stop plunger and spring (2U 11 & 17), I'm at a loss where they belong?
What can we do for You Gene, in return?!

Those will be covered, the plan has been to post a complete assembly of one of these.... when I get it completely assembled. I spent today making repair parts to reassemble the receiver, when that's done the rest should be easy. I also have pictures of the repair of a Lyman 54 that was improperly taken off that will show what issues to watch for on these sights. It also was somewhat in parts when received

Gene while rebuilding the parts for my 1920's I have done 2
the part 20-58 is an earlier one with a screw thread
Like you I knurled them as in the later stocks
I found both in my assortment of local gunsmith repairs and assembly
Cheers

Gene, Graham,

How does this piece #20-2049 attach to the receiver? I'm trying to remove one and don't want to break it like Gene's working with

Jeff, do not try and remove it!!! It's meant to be a permanent attachment. The small end is hollow and very thin, it works kind of like a 'pop rivet' - the tube like end is put through the two parts and then expanded to hold them together, a plug is also inserted into it, I do not know if this is done after it's expanded or inserting the plug is what expands it... but I do know it's not made to be taken back out.

Numrich actually has one in stock, but I was not sure if it was one that was never used, as pictured, or possibly a used one and even if it were new I would have to find some way to expand it enough to hold everything very tight, and I would probably only have one chance at that.. and I do not know if this was done with the part cold or if they heated it first... and it would still require a plug to be made becasue the safety spring and plunger are held in a hole in this plug.

.gunpartscorp.com/products/989580 Out of curiosity I plug two in as the number ordered and was notified the dib not have that many. You can see by this and the broken one that there are only two small thin tabs on each side of the slot that hold all this together.

I have pictures of my solution but they are not ready to post. I'll try to load those & post here later today.

You definitely are going to have to post pre and post resurrection pictures of this project.

Loud and clear Gene, Thanks!

My current problem is; when the safety is on, and the safety push rod is pulled back over the sear, it does not hold the sear down as it should. I assumed I had mis-matched parts and either my safety push rod needed to be taller, or the slot in my safety post was over sized, and another matched pair of each piece would be the solution.

Looking at the issue, and again at your exploded parts diagram, where do part #'s 20-2047, and 2048, safety catch and spring belong?

I never had enough schooling to be an actual engineer,..but maybe I've got a shot at being a reverse-engineer!

Gene, you are the St. Jude for this stuff!

Jeff, I did not reference the parts drawing when I mentioned that the plug that goes into part 20-2049 has an .125" hole in it for the parts #'s 20-2047, and 2048, safety catch and spring. Those were a couple of the parts I was missing and the plunger had to be fabricated and I found a spring.

I have got the bag of parts back together as a complete functioning gun, I tried to document all of it but I have a lot of pictures that need to be gone through, edited and labeled. The gun I worked on is the 1926 version so some of it might be a little different than earlier versions (we found that out with part 20-58 - stock escutcheon) . I have never worked on another other than making a couple of trigger guard screws and the stock inserts, that did not require looking at the rest of the gun, this is the first I have had to deal more than that, and it came in parts, with some missing and one major one broken, I did not have another gun to reference so it has been a long time getting it finished.

You asked earlier about the parts 20-21, bolt stop plunger and it's spring 20-22, they go in the lower side of the receiver and the plunger protrudes up into the left channel in the receiver for the bolt to keep the bolt from dropping out under it's own weight if the trigger is pulled with the action open and the gun pointed up. I has a rounded top so the bolt can be pulled over it or reinserted without much force. I am not sure if this was on earlier versions.

This patent drawing shows that spring and also shows part 20-2019 more as a solid rivet than what the gun I worked on had - this is not all the same as production guns - but for those parts it's close.


This one shows a different safety design - both are from the same patent, this is just page 2.

Everyone complains about the 1920’s trigger. When you look at those drawings you see it’s a standard two-stage (two hump) military design. Once I understood that, the trigger in my 20/26 became totally understandable. Of course I did bite my teeth on milspec Springfields, Krags and Mausers so it was no great stretch getting there.

I'm with you on that, Jeff.

Add a link to this posting in the Misc Good Things section.

Jeff, I would also say not to remove the piece on your receiver. I had one I tried to remove and it broke on a stripped receiver I have.