People with addiction-prone personalities should stay the hale away from Buck Marks, just sayin'.
Either that, or pick up the Silhouette adjustable-overtravel trigger and sear spring. About $15 for the combo, which beats heck out of sending spare organs to Volquartsen for parts to make a Ruger suck less.
There's no need to pull the barrel screw with any frequency, but it is a good idea to remove it once and check the frame surfaces. I've found a machining burr that wasn't properly removed from the aluminum and affected the seating of the barrel. Can't say it affected accuracy, but a bedding defect is a bedding defect.
Check the linkage for smooth edges on all the stamped parts, making sure there are no burrs dragging.
Set the firing pin length. A couple threads on this over on RFC. The tolerances between the slide and firing pin vary, and if the firing pin is too long, it will peen the breech with varying degrees of severity when dry fired. Do it one time, and you're safe until you wear out the firing pin. BMs that will peen the breech generally show a witness mark when taken out of the box for the first time, as they are dry fired for function check at the factory. It's not a sign of abuse at the gun counter.
Loctite the rail screws. Can't tighten them enough to stay tight without it. Make sure you have the conical lock washers in there, as their thickness is required for the screw head geometry to seat properly.
CDNN generally has the best prices on magazines ($20 when they're on sale). They also have Herrett thumb rest grips for cheap. They only fit the standard frame, not the URX or UDX, but they are great if you have big hands.
Can't remember whether this was one or two magazines at 7 yards my last time out. The dot is an inch. I still suck, but might figure it out someday.
![[Linked Image]](http://i67.tinypic.com/219p85t.jpg)
Whatever you do, don't get into the historical Challenger models, they will cost you money. And they make Buck Marks seem rough and cobbled together. You'll hate them.
