Originally Posted by Malcolm
Originally Posted by damnesia
Originally Posted by Malcolm
Here's one I worked on all winter off and on. The backsight main cross pin is seized and the side elevation wheel shaft is bent and won't turn a full 360' .[Linked Image][Linked Image][Linked Image]

I think it's safe to shoot but some one put a pipe wrench on it and failed to remove the barrel. The teeth depth may not be any deeper than the diameter of a lighter contour barrel at the same location which I assume would be smaller but since all mine are 1899 303 Savage I don't have any to compare and measure for comparison.
The gun took a teaspoon of gravel from cleaning and needed a new staple , magazine main axle , new backsight, new firing pin cross screw near the back of the bolt , and stock work. All that's left is to make a saddle ring for it. I've probably got it thumpin' again.

Can you share details and pics about the work you did to put a new staple in? I have one that needs a staple.




Of course I can damnesia.
Listen , As with a lot of things, the staple is an easier job than it is until you start to do it. You need to knock out the old staple legs ,if they are still in the side of the receiver. Use a light punch and tap them into the inside of the gun ,the shoulder ,as much as possible removed . Find the size of these legs with good calipers or try your drills in the fresh holes to get a good dimension. The distance between the the two shoulders is shy of 1 inch by about 1/ 16. " I made mine 1 inch and believe it just a bit long.
I measured a known good staple on an 1899 by running a length of magnet wire along its exposed length and found it to be 1 inch.
You have to get some good steel (I used a badly pitted 1903 Springfield condemned barrel that I split lengthwise like an orange in 4 and got 4 pieces 4 inches long that had enough meat on them to turn round in the lathe to make the thin section in the middle separated by the shoulders 1 inch apart . The legs need to be touched with a small fine file to champher the ends so that when you drive the first leg into the hole it doesn't bend the straight staple but is an interference fit and snug.
Once you get one leg in just heat the staple with an ordinary propane torch until you can tell it will bend with pliers. Bend it ,( it will bend easy like a nail ) line it up with the second hole ,get it started, and drive it home ,(not so hard as to warp it sideways) with a small ball pein hammer,or if you preferr a softer face .I used a ball pen which gave a flat area on the top because I liked the smithing' look.
The legs need to long enough to knock over on the inside once they are set but not so long as to interfere with the action . Try to make them so you aren't required to cut them off once they poke through to the inside. Make one a little longer than the other , and set it in first. The shoulders are flat bottomed of course with a contour into the staple on top.
IL get you off some pictures of mine before long.
It's easy.
Malcolm.
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Damnesia , Here is a drawing of the staple after it was done on the lathe. I didn't take pictures of the work in progress.


[img]https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/galleries/17479687/1899-staple[/img]

The best picture of a staple shoulder is found in Gene's Photograph a few posts back. You'll have a hard time telling the difference between one you do and one done by Savage

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