Originally Posted by Godogs57
Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Originally Posted by Godogs57
On my model 70’s I take that screw completely out. The middle screw on the floor plate, I tighten it only enough to hold it in place….hardly anything at all.

Seems to work for me.

That works great most times, if your rifle is properly bedded and barrel freefloated. These 2 rifles shoot awesome this way:

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When you buy custom stocks for these pre 64's, most times they do not even have the screw hole. Just freefloat the barrel in the channel. This is another one, but with a custom stock:
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No provision for the barrel screw. Rifle shoots pretty dang good:
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Now, you guys that are not glass bedding your rifles and relying on the barrel screw to keep accuracy consistent, good luck. Most wood stocks are affected by humidity and the tension on that screw can change. Thus affecting accuracy. One reason I suggest freefloating the barrel, if you choose to remove the barrel screw. Many ways to skin the cat, but keeping things consistent really helps with accuracy. Helps to maintain it anyway.

Your target in the picture: 1960’s-1970’s WW brass.

The good stuff!

Hell yes. I've always preferred the older WW SUPER brass. The 90's R-P is good stuff too.

That's when I scored some factory primed WW SUPER 270 Winchester brass a few months ago, after buying 2 pre 64 model 70's on the same day:
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I believe those are from the 70's as well. Someone else may know better.

Here's more factory primed cases I found for the old 270's:
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It's almost as fun finding old good brass, as it is finding the rifles.

My most recent rifle find (classic compact) had to get some brass as well. I got this from one of my buddies near Reno. Great once fired stuff:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Almost 200 pcs. of good quality brass. Those that think you have to have brand new schidt all the time, are really missing out in life.

Now, I realize this is not about brass, but about what "torque" you set your barrel tension screw at on a std wt pre 64 model 70. I have some questions for the OP:

1. How often do you shoot your rifle?
2. What type of accuracy can you live with?
3. What's the humidity like where you live?
4. How original is your rifle? Meaning if that stock has been cut and a recoil pad added, all gloves should come off and you should accurize it. Going back to question #2 of course.

I often wonder about some guys. A model 70 is always going to shoot at its best when it is properly glass bedded. After that, it's generally going to shoot at its best when the barrel is freefloated. That means no stock to barrel contact anywhere.

However, If it's all original, leave that barrel screw in and just barely snug it. Unless you can feel a deflection of some sort. If that happens, you'll know you are putting unnecessary stress on that barrel. As the barrel heats, it will throw shots. It's all simple mechanics.

Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

BSA MAGA