This is why I do not use a vital zone the size of the actual vitals instead I use say a 2" vital zone radius leaving a little room for shooter error.
I feel the same and if I were to run a scope using MPBR I'd do the exact same thing. I don't like my bullets hitting too high at the shorter ranges, even though most of the game I take is beyond them.
I guess I'm in the minority here as I don't think I've seen any one mention ballistic reticles (maybe I missed it). It's more natural for me to worry about compensating for bullet drop than to worry about how high I might hit at whatever range I'm shooting. So I prefer to zero like so:
Standard caliber: Zero at 100 yards.
"Magnum" or any flat shooting caliber: Zero at 200 yards.
I Use the "tick marks" to help compensate for drop. No clicking or re-zeroing for different distances. You just need to learn what distances the tick marks
really mean for your rifle and load. With a standard caliber I'm good out to 450 to 500 yards and with a flat shooter I'm good out to 575 to 625. I hunt pretty open country more often than not, but that's still more than enough distance for my own needs.
A flat shooter zero'd at 200 puts me about 1.5" high at 100 and a about 1.6" high between 110-130 yards. That's not enough above the line of sight that I feel like I have to worry about compensating for it at any distance.
It's not perfect, but it's worked for me.
