Allen.

These stove also burn cherry red but the robber stays that way for much of the burn and this makes it pump out the BTUs crazy. It runs nearly the same even with the Kifaru take down stove. The larger bottom opening is dropping the firebox temp and harming the draft. I may just have to get a new tray and drill air holes like originally planned before I got the coal removal idea. Unless I can come up with something that isn�t permanently attached to the outside or is removable? The corners and bottom sides are rounded and so far there is little warping with the 24 ga SS.

Hardcorehunter.

The larger stove with 95% for the fixings (still need to work a few things out) is 3 lbs 10 oz with 7 foot pipe. I think the smaller one must be less than 3 lbs with 5 foot pipe. Not bad for 24 ga Stainless though have a bunch-o-stoves some of which are more UL. I am not sure what to do about the door yet beyond a thin metal plate as can only attach something on the outside of one plate so not to harm the stacking. Everything is also rounded and this added to the warp resistant however makes a door opening which is big enough a bit harder to cover.

Timat46.

Maybe this would help. The lower opening idea may get scrapped for a new tray with standard air hole.

[Linked Image]

Take a knew.

If there is too much stuff on the outside of the stove it could prevent one from stacking into the other. I am thinking of making a hinged door as one tray could have stuff on the outside and the other tray slide into that. I could also just drill holes in the stove and run the legs though it using 10/24th threaded stock though this would slow my setup time down. On the flip slide this project is for a friend who doesn�t get out in the woods much and might actually be setup only a few times a year. Also the bottom tapers down and the legs be together more than a rectangular or box shaped stove. Granted it would sink into the dirt even on frozen ground once the stove gets going or be attached to a floatation Al plate on a snow base.