When you set the barreled action into the stock take the trigger guard and the rear screw, place it into the stock while it is still in your vise and make sure it is positioned properly. Run the screw into the action, you can then remove it if you like. This will prevent any problems with fitting two piece bottom metal.
I have a couple of questions concerning the Ruger 77 bedding process.
1) Do you weigh down the receiver when setting it into the stock without the front screw? Do you tape it together? Or just leave it set there on its own?
2) Do you line up the rear trigger guard simply so that the action is in the correct fore/aft position while drying?
1a. Set the barreled action in the stock, make sure it is level at the rear tang, receiver and forend. It would probably be a good idea (which I do) to add electrical tape right at the end of the forend tip to balance the stock fore and aft. The tape is approximately .005 in thickness, double that it's .010, 4x is .020. In the case of the 9.3x62 I checked before adding Acraglas and is was level as needed. The idea is to set is straight and completely stress free. When you tighten screws down you won't get any twisting from side to side or fore and aft. I can't tell you how many times I've used this method, then taken a rifle apart to clean, reassemble and have it shoot to the same place (within an 1" or so). I bedded Oulufinn's 7mm Rem Mag in a older McMillan and it shot great. The he bought a McS,wirley, I bedded the rifle using the same procedure. When we went to the range and shot it, his first question was how could it be that I screwed the bedding up so much. I peered downrange and his first shot was 2" high and at 11:30. It had been sighted in 2" high @ 12 o'clock, so I was off by about 3/8th's of an inch. Don't believe me send him a PM and see what he says.
2a. Basically, yes. The guard should be in the rearmost position. If it is far enough forward, you can jam the floorplate against it's recess and make it near impossible to remove. So before complete assembly just use the front and rear screw and make sure it latches correctly, then add the middle screw. It should be seated just enough so the floorplate will close properly. I use red loctite on the middle screw so it doesn't back out.
It all may sound complicated but it's really not. What you might want to consider is bedding it in stages. In other words add bedding only in the recoil lug mortise and about 1/2" behind the lug. Let it set up. If something is amiss after it hardens you can remove that small amount rather than grinding out 1/2 lb of Acraglas and wood. If it is straight and true, you can add bedding around the original work, then you can use the front screw. Just don't overtighten it, just snug for now, you don't have enough support under the action or barrel to do otherwise. To make sure the "new" Acraglas is even with the previous, warm it with a blow dryer, it will become softer and a wee bit "runnier" and fill voids and be level with the receiver, barrel channel, etc. Don't use that method very often but it can come in handy if your not sure about the process.
BTW, do yourself a favor and use Hornady One shot resizing juice in the red can. It is far better than anything I've ever used, easy to spray on, you won't stick anything and if for some reason some bedding is left on the metal, you can pick it right off with a wooden stick or even a fingernail. Another way to remove stuck Acraglas is to put a small amount of Citistrip on the affected area with a Q-tip. Let it work for 15 minutes or so and clean off.
Even, straight, stress free. Then you can have meaningful load development rather than chasing your tail trying to figure out flyers, etc. If you want to talk on the phone shoot me a PM, be happy to help.
Carlos
