Those remingtons will really shoot. You have a mechanical issue somewhere....take that to the bank
XYZ SCOPE COMPANY made a bunch of screws that were too long in a short run a few years back. Take the front screw out in the forward most part of the base and check the bottom of the screws. If that screw touches the barrel tennon, then the accuracy is gone. If the screw is touching the rifling, it will be all too obvious with the has marks on the bottom of the screw.
Bed the rifle, adjust the trigger, freefloat the barrel, and make sure the magazine box is not pressing up on the center of the action before you ever fire another shot.
When the action is out of the stock, look at the area where the trigger is in the stock. If one of the cross pins that holds the trigger in is pressing into the stock, accuracy is gone.
The following loads are typical loads that work in the Swift:
44.0-44.5g of AA2700 with a 50g Nosler
38g of IMR 4064, 50-52g what evers
39g+ of H380 with 50-55g what evers
One thing that you should pay special attention to, chamfer your case mouths deep, you do not just want to deburr the cases.
Pay special attention to the pressure needed to seat the bullets. Swift cases are thick, work hardening can make pressures spike from one case to another. Mark the cases that have bullets that take a lot of effort to seat(different from the others). The last swift that I had, the cases work hardened so fast that the brass was being shaved off buy the case mouth even though I had a deep chamfer on the case mouths...bullets were very HARD to seat.
If you can, learn to anneal cases.
Lube the inside of your necks before you run them through the F.L. sizer, you will feel a lot less drag from the expander ball.
Bushing dies, body dies, collet dies are all a great thing.
You need to determine just how much freebore you have in your rifle by using an ogive gage used in conjunction with a split neck case or a Hornady comparator. If you find that you have a ton of freebore, then your barrel may have a lot of wear on it, or the throat was just cut long.
When I had a lot of rounds on my 220 swifts, I first went to the sierra 55g Semi point which were as accurate as Burger 52's, then went with the Sierra 63g as the throat got even longer. Not many will elect for this option but when money is tight, you are backed in a corner. As long as the barrel is accurate, save your money for a new gun or replacement barrel. It may break your heart, but a brand new SS 22/250 can be found for about $50, and a gun smith can screw it on your rifle for about another $50 or so. I have never seen a Remington take off Swift barrel for sale, but you have a lot of homework to do before you cross that bridge.
You are driving yourself crazy trying too many components at one time. Stick with one set of components and work through it. The way you are reloading is like you are throwing darts at a dart board. For instance, stick with the Sierra 52, and one powder(one that has been mentioned in this thread by some of the swift shooters), after you have determined the distance to the lands. If you determine that your throat is long, then I would refer you to my experience with the Serra 55 and 63g semi points...they are unreal accurate with IMR 4350. With these two bullets, you can get them up close to the lands, once again.
No one has even mentioned cleaning techniques, I hope that you have good bronze bristle brushes and a good copper solvent. If you have a barrel full of copper, all hopes of great groups are gone. In a darkened room, look in the end of the muzzle with a small flashlight, copper will be very evident if there is any.
Best wishes on your knee, this is all a great tool for you to learn on!
Last edited by keith; 04/20/14.
