Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Best way to remove bedding from stock?

I was corrected this weekend on here that it doesn't matter if it's stress free or not. Hope this helps...grin.

Great pics guys I'm sure it was a wonderful time.

Kaleb
Find a new buddy. Whoever it may is working with sh-t material or a dumb azz.

Tape the hose from a Shop Vac to the barrel channel while your grinding. Makes it easy to see whatcha doing and keeps the dust way down.

I already said that you fugk!





Clark

Oh, sorry. I tend to skip over your bullschit.....

It may help to use a shop vac when your grinding to keep the dust level down

Lie.




Dave

+1.




Clark

The dust is crazy and I can hardly see what I'm doing

Since nobody has mentioned it, I would suggest using a shop vac.

THANK YOU! Finally somebody chimes in with some solid advice

First of all great pics G-Dub!



I have fancy new cordless Dremel in my garage, takes too damn long!

Luckily a (sharp)knife will work on Acra-Gel or whatever it's called.

Do not use a medium size screw driver as a pry tool. The stock is fairly thin.

Does anybody have any suggestions on a good way/the best way to remove bedding from inside the recoil lug area only. I have a stock that was previously bedded to another barreled action. Insertion of the current action is impossible because of how narrow the recoil lug area is. I want to try to drop in this other barreled action without messing with the bedding any more than I have to and see how it shoots. I just want to remove enough from the lug area to slide it in to see if it works. If it doesn't shoot well, I'll remove it all, kind of a reverse bedding opportunity. The cone stone for the dremel will not work because of shape. Ideas?

For removing small amounts of bedding, I'd do it the old way, hand chisels and scrapers. FWIW, I believe I'd dremel out the lug and rebed as a first move, but I know that with a little patience the chisel will work.

The entire action and about three inches in front of the lug are all bedded. I should have been more clear.

I should've added that when using a dremel that a shop vac is a good idea....

Does it have to be a Shop-Vac brand?

I'm glad you asked.

It'd be best to stay with a name brand, but even a generic shop vacuum can be used with success. Some of the generic models can be difficult to remove from the box.......

I use a very small sharpened flat screw driver and use it as a chisel. It makes it easy to work in corners. Simply tap the screw driver with a small hammer as you would with a chisel. This has worked very well for me.

Pieter

I think the advice thus far has been succinct. Shop Vac Means Shop Vac....Dremel means Dremel...


Beer means Dos Equis.....at least here. On the Hi-line I think they regard Busch Lite as beer......



Now don't muck up the thread any more!