Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles Gas

Thanks for that graphic. It makes sense quickly.

I have a question about BCG wgts. I kinda came late into the AR scene and started w/ a "Predator" style and found some of the brass was being treated unkindly. Having a redneck farmer mentality that hates wasting anything, Id heard that increasing the wgt of the BCG would slow the action and would be more gentle on the gun and the brass. So with the farmer engineering approach i found a 5/8" bolt that wasnt holding anything down and cut the head to a flat thin button, and the body was shortened to allow hammer clearance. The result seemed to be what was desired and the rifle functions without any issues, so after I got a DPMS " barn gun" I did the same thing. Both shoot well, i dont have a broad enough experience base to say whether they are smoother or not, but function is just great. I raely fire more than 2-4 shots at one episode. Foxes and such varmits either die or escape in that time frame. Question is, I guess is am I doing anything especially stupid or wrong? Brass seems to bein the prescribed quadrant, and is reeloadable without any problems, its also usually easy to find.

Yes, adding weight to the BCG or anywhere in the recoil system will keep the bolt in battery longer and slow down the cyclic rate. These are usually good things when you want to save brass or run a little faster load. David Tubb makes a carrier weight system that drops in a AR-15 or AR-10 bolt carrier for that very reason. I have one in my .308 and it does help, especially when shooting suppressed.

I guess Im going to have to find another unused 5/8" bolt for my AR 10.

JP Adjustable Gas System

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I have a Syrac adjustable gas block on a Syrac mid-length 16" upper. The lower has a carbine buffer. The BCG is a semi. I've adjusted the gas block so it locks back on an empty mag, plus 1/2 turn to be safe. It is very "smooth" shooting compared to my other upper and different friends' ARs.

With the same BCG and the same lower, my other upper with a 16" barrel but a carbine gas has much more recoil.

The gas block makes a big difference.

I know things would smooth out with a heavier buffer with the carbine upper, but would I gain anything going to say, an h-2 with the mid-length upper that already had the gas block adjusted, or is it already as good as it gets?

Rather than drop the $40 on a new buffer and shipping to try it, I'm hoping someone here has already used a similar setup.

I wouldn't change a thing.

Thanks for the response.

Bump for TikkaNut

So.. is the A2 buffer like an H2 or H3? Is it just called a rifle buffer?

I have a 16 inch upper and an A2 stock, haven't had a chance to try the "seeing the hits in the scope" thing yet, but it throws my brass about 4:00 o'clock and works everytime so I guess I don't need to change anything.

OK, I went back and found the diagram, so the A1/A2 is the heaviest? I just need to make sure it locks back on any .223 stuff I shoot or lighter handloads.

Lots of good info in there, just had to pay attention.

Thanks much

bump for the new guys.

Thanks for the info, Blue and others. Invaluable to a noob..

I remember the first time I shot an AR--my buddy's S&W M&P carbine--I was surprised at the 'recoil'. That is, how much it moved on target. I attributed it to the BCG and buffer springs all moving back and forth. Decided a good bolt action was where it was at.

Now that I have one I wonder if I should have shopped for a middy. After reading this I've ordered a heavier buffer and spring. Should get them this week and I'll do some side by side testing to see what happens. I'm not planning on comp with it (yet) so perhaps it's a waste but I'm an OCD tinkerer so can't help it. If I ever shoot out this barrel, I'll try a mid length next time.

Interesting...the Campfire CAN be a source of helpful info...

Thanks for the bump, AS. (I first followed the link from the other thread).

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