Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Anyone ever shim a scope base with Steel Bed?

I've got to shim the rear of my DD's on a M70 and thought about trying to "make" a shim by using steel bed. Thinking #6 washers to get the height right, then frame out the base with painters tape, One Shot everything, goop, snug to base down and trim away the excess, similar to doing bedding.

Thoughts?

Side question: What's the reason for the shimming?

She's a floater. Used beer can between the scope and base before, ugly but worked. Thought I'd try to do a little better job with the DD's

I just slip something like a thin plastic credit card shim between the scope and ring. Easy.

I bed all my bases now. I use devcon. Wax the base all over except underside. Wax the screws. Wax the action and I tape it off also. I let it sit for an hour or so and then trim excess. Works very well. You can even sharpie the visible devcon black so it doesn't stand out as much. I usually cerakote my rings so it all blends in anyway.

I've done the "between the base scope" thing, trying to be a little nicer to the old gal. '69 PF 270 and she's on her 6th stock and lord knows how many scopes, rings, and wedged coke cans. I don't know why I monkey with it so damn much, especially since its always shot well.

But THIS will be the last time.......maybe.

I did the same also, now I only bed the one-piece bases to reduce stress on the receiver, but mainly use two-piece bases with Burris Signature rings with the polymer inserts as the inserts will align the scope to the barrel. It's much easier and less time consuming.

I have a one-piece Picatinny rail that I attach my scope mount to. It had about as much clearance as yours does on the rear. I bedded the front with STEEL BED and torqued it down just so it was snug. I used Brownell's release agent on everything but the bottom of the rail. After that cured I removed it, gooped up the other end with the screw already pushed all the way through, as before everything (including the screw) had been sprayed with the release agent, then I carefully placed the rail back on the rifle, getting the rear screw into the mounting hole before the STEEL BED touched the rear of the receiver, then pushed it down and just got the mounting screw started, but did not apply any torque to it. Then I torqued the front down to spec. I let the STEEL BED cure for the length of time the instructions stated, then I cut the excess away from the "pad" of STEEL BED that was now under the rear of my rail. It was a bit of a PIA, but I have a nice neutral bedding on my scope rail. I believe the gap I bedded was a little larger than what you're showing in your photograph.