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Originally Posted by prairie_goat
1/2x28 threads work fine with larger calibers, as long as there's enough meat between the bore and threads.....most smiths want to move up in size for anything larger than 7mm to 30 caliber.

This stuff isn't complicated.....take your rifle in to a reputable smith, have him cut your current barrel to whatever length you choose, thread it 1/2x28 (as long as you have ~.6" of barrel diameter at your chosen muzzle length), and use a thread adapter to fit your suppressor. Bring the thread adapter with you so the smith can fit the threads, that will ensure close mating and limit the chance of a baffle strike.

I recommend going 16-18" on barrel length, because with a 7" suppressor the overall rifle length will be close to original factory length. That means the rifle will retain a handy overall length, and the balance won't be so badly affected....especially compared to starting with a 20" heavy barrel to begin with...those babies are incredibly front heavy when a suppressor is added, unless you use a 30 ounce scope and magnum fill stock to balance it out, then suddenly your rifle weighs 10+ lbs and isn't any fun to carry around.

A 16-18" 270 will still have plenty of speed to expand decently slick bullets to ranges further than any of us has any business shooting at unwounded big game, and the rifle will remain handy enough to hunt the brush. Win/Win.


What he said. I have a 6.5 and 308 threaded 1/2x28 and use an adaptor to step up to 5/8x24. It works great. Be advised that a suppressor will certainly help with the noise level but may not necessarily be hearing safe with supersonic ammo.

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Originally Posted by 257heaven
Do you have a dial caliper to measure the diameter of the Tikka where you'd want it cut? 20"? 18"? or leave at 22"? Measure it and let us know what it is.

Most of the 223 suppressors aren't rated for 22-250, so I'd go 5/8x24 threads and use a light 308 suppressor.

There is a thread in the classifieds here - a smith in Dallas, I think, doing threading work and discounting if you have more than one. Check that out and contact him to see what he recommends.

Barrel threading thread - CLICK HERE


At the end of the barrel is .636
At the 18" .665
At the 16" .680

I have learned a lot on this thread and I'm going to look at LRI and thread adapters also look at quick connectors. I have two Tikkas and a ar 15 so going try and expand on the knowledge I have obtained to suppress these. Thanks a lot guys. Ricky

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Here's .655" diameter Brux #3 threaded 5/8x24 by LRI.

[Linked Image]


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Check w/ Darrik at Whittaker Guns. They had some blued T3 Lites w threaded barrels available awhile back, albeit to metric threads. But adapters to U.S. Threads available.

So far, only the CTRs are 5/8-24.

Last edited by ColdCase1984; 12/27/15.

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Although not the prettiest rifle in the world, nor the lightest, the Savage Hog Hunter comes threaded and it shoots...

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SilencerCo Harvester...

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Just got a shorter lighter SilencerCo OMEGA...that one adapts to anything and has both .22 and .30 endcaps...

Bob





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Originally Posted by 257heaven

Here's .655" diameter Brux #3 threaded 5/8x24 by LRI.

[Linked Image]


Something like this is asking for an endcap strike if you try to seat a suppressor against that tiny shoulder. Using a suppressor mounting muzzle device that squares against the muzzle is a good solution though.

The better solution for thin 30 cal hunting barrels is 9/16"-24 or 9/16"-28 threads. This usually leaves enough shoulder on the barrel, without leaving the muzzle too thin.

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Originally Posted by Tennessee
I have not found Tikkas to have enough meat for a shoulder when threading to 5/8-24 for most common 30 cal suppressors.

I have done about 5-6 T3s now and have pressed a shoulder behind the threads on all. I have done one .223 threaded at 1/2-28 and it had plenty of meat for a sufficient shoulder.

[Linked Image]


I would guess the "shoulder ring" is an interference fit?
If so, does it have a constriction in the bore beneath it?

Last edited by m_stevenson; 12/28/15. Reason: spelink

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Pretty sure both of these would have been deer dick in the dirt.....

CTR is .785" where the barrel meets the threads...

[video:youtube]e6-VyPZ1oe0[/video]


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Originally Posted by m_stevenson
Originally Posted by Tennessee
I have not found Tikkas to have enough meat for a shoulder when threading to 5/8-24 for most common 30 cal suppressors.

I have done about 5-6 T3s now and have pressed a shoulder behind the threads on all. I have done one .223 threaded at 1/2-28 and it had plenty of meat for a sufficient shoulder.

[Linked Image]


I would guess the "shoulder ring" is an interference fit?
If so, does it have a constriction in the bore beneath it?


I have not done a gage ball drop test but I highly doubt there is a constriction. The rifle still shoots 3 shot touching groups regularly. There was a very small shoulder after turning the area to be threaded to .625". If I recall about .020-.030 per side, so the ring has at least something to stop against. You don't need a major press fit. The ring is slip-light press fit with LocTite cylindrical bonding compound applied.

So the ideal process is to turn the muzzle OD to .625 for the proper length (desired thread length + length of shoulder ring), install shoulder, thread from muzzle to shoulder.


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Originally Posted by Tennessee
Originally Posted by m_stevenson
Originally Posted by Tennessee
I have not found Tikkas to have enough meat for a shoulder when threading to 5/8-24 for most common 30 cal suppressors.

I have done about 5-6 T3s now and have pressed a shoulder behind the threads on all. I have done one .223 threaded at 1/2-28 and it had plenty of meat for a sufficient shoulder.

[Linked Image]


I would guess the "shoulder ring" is an interference fit?
If so, does it have a constriction in the bore beneath it?


I have not done a gage ball drop test but I highly doubt there is a constriction. The rifle still shoots 3 shot touching groups regularly. There was a very small shoulder after turning the area to be threaded to .625". If I recall about .020-.030 per side, so the ring has at least something to stop against. You don't need a major press fit. The ring is slip-light press fit with LocTite cylindrical bonding compound applied.

So the ideal process is to turn the muzzle OD to .625 for the proper length (desired thread length + length of shoulder ring), install shoulder, thread from muzzle to shoulder.



Thanks for the explanation, Tennessee.

.020-.030" shoulder is definitely enough to seat the ring on. So you're using 609 Locktite?

I like it. It gives more choices in thread sizes for guns with slimmer barrels.


Mark

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