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I have a new bolt action rifle that I bought that I have intended from the beginning to cerekote. I just wanted to verify that it was accurate enough before investing in the process. It appears to meet my needs, so I went by my local place and talked about the process etc.

They talked about disassembly, going into an oven, grease outgassing from the barrel junction, making sure the face of the bolt, or maybe it was the lugs, are not left coated etc. And I began to wonder if this was a good idea.

Could this process ruin what I already have? Of course, they assure me it won't, but....

I see various manufacturers are cerekoting their stuff....is this done before or after assembly?

Has anyone heard of the process having an adverse effect?

In case you wonder why I am paranoid...had a 270 that was so accurate, I don't usually tell people how accurate it was because I they won't believe me, but my friends all knew this rifle. It was great. But the stock was not on quite straight and every year, it's wood would warp just a little and the POI would keep moving. Finally, I decided to have that barrel channel opened up a bit to 'solve that problem'. Hill Country did it for me and low and behold. It started shooting horribly (relatively speaking).

When I talked to them, they said it was probably pressure bedding diagonally and it shot well that way. They suggested bringing it back and they would figure it out etc. Never did, moved it on down the road. But left me a little paranoid over messing with a good thing.

So I thought I should check before ruining another great shooter wink

Thanks!

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Haven't noticed a difference on the ones I've had done.

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We have been Cerekoteing for several years now and have never had a complaint.

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To the OP, reminds me of what my Buddy Vic roy used to say - "the enemy of good, is better!"

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Originally Posted by Mikewriter
To the OP, reminds me of what my Buddy Vic roy used to say - "the enemy of good, is better!"


Well, I have to adjust that a bit....I think the enemy of good is ME trying to improve it wink

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Originally Posted by catorres1
Originally Posted by Mikewriter
To the OP, reminds me of what my Buddy Vic roy used to say - "the enemy of good, is better!"


Well, I have to adjust that a bit....I think the enemy of good is ME trying to improve it wink


I have told myself a couple of times that "I shoulda left well enough alone"...

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I haven't noticed any accuracy difference in my half-dozen Cerakoted rifles, whether it was done at the factory or afterward.


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Super, I shall proceed then. The rifle is stainless, but I wanted an even better level of corrosion protection, as well as a different color.

Thanks!

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I haven't seen a change in accuracy but I have see bolts not operate as smoothly.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
I haven't noticed any accuracy difference in my half-dozen Cerakoted rifles, whether it was done at the factory or afterward.


Which do you prefer? Cerakote or DYI Dyna-Tek Gun Shield?


"An archer sees how far he can be from a target and still hit it, a bowhunter sees how close he can get before he shoots." It is certainly easy to use that same line of thinking with firearms. -- Unknown
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If it isn't coated inside the barrel, it should cause no problems.
I think Hill Country are pretty good guys. I would have given them an opportunity to check it out rather than have it shoot $HITTY.

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RevMike,

I Gun-Shield traditionally blued rifles, but for really hard-use rifles I prefer Cerakote. A good example is my old FN Mauser .338 Winchester Magnum, which I built for extreme-weather use when traveling, especially to northern North America. Aside from the action, which has the sliding floorplate that never springs open, I installed a 98 Mauser military trigger converted to single-pull, and a Bansner High-Tech synthetic stock. It not only got Cerakoted but the bore is DBC'd for rust protection.

Should mention that when it came back, the bolt was a little hard to work, as Texasphotog mentioned. And the trigger pull was much harder than the 3 pounds it left with. Both were due to Cerakote on the working surface, but it only took a few minutes with a stone to scrape the Cerakote on those surfaces down a little, and get the bolt running slickly and the trigger pulling the way it should.


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Originally Posted by catorres1
Super, I shall proceed then. The rifle is stainless, but I wanted an even better level of corrosion protection, as well as a different color.

Thanks!


Just curious about your reasons for wanting this on a stainless rifle? I can understand wanting to change the color, but is the improvement in corrosion resistance really going to make any practical difference? I have a stainless rifle that is my main hunting rifle and I've been hunting it hard here in BC for over 15 years. Lots of backpack hunts where its in the element's for days and days, and I dont do anything except clean the bore a few times a year and lubricate moving parts on the bolt and trigger when needed. I don't see any corrosion anywhere.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
RevMike,

It not only got Cerakoted but the bore is DBC'd for rust protection.



John,

What s DBC'd and where do I get that?

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Originally Posted by mod7rem
Originally Posted by catorres1
Super, I shall proceed then. The rifle is stainless, but I wanted an even better level of corrosion protection, as well as a different color.

Thanks!


Just curious about your reasons for wanting this on a stainless rifle? I can understand wanting to change the color, but is the improvement in corrosion resistance really going to make any practical difference?


Honestly, I can't say for sure one way or the other. I have heard both sides from multiple sources, that say yes, it is a significant and worthwhile step up, and others that say it's unnecessary.

I have seen tests and clearly, Cerakote is far more resistant, but is it necessary? I don't know, but one thing I do know is that not all stainless alloys are the same and some are apparently much more rust resistant than others. So for $150, it's cheap insurance if I am not risking anything. My idea (fantasy) is that this rifle will go with me everywhere and anywhere and be good to go. Honestly, considering my track record of actually getting anything done, I would probably have better ROI spending the money on donuts, but hey, we keep trying, right?

In addition, I generally don't like stainless hunting guns. Probably an old wive's tale, but I prefer a dark color. And then there are aesthetics, while I really like how it looks now, I think I'll like it better in a darker color. I go back and forth, but I have seen a rifle very similar to mine in tactical grey, and I really liked it. So all together, it's probably a good way for me to go.

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catorres,

Dyna-Tek Bore Coat. It's primarily for reducing bore fouling (and it works well) but the very thin layer of clear ceramic also protects from rust as well. It's in my .338's bore for both reasons, since the rifle has a chrome-moly barrel.

You can order a kit from Brownells for $44.49 and install it yourself. One kit will treat a number of barrels.


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I would not do this myself, I am notorious for messing stuff up. But I supposed I could have it done. Would you bother on a stainless barrel?

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Not unless it fouled considerably.


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I had a poor, abused Ruger Super Blackhawk - blued - Cerakoted in what they call their "stainless" "color". Choose this instead of having it rebelled, because I wanted the corrosion protection, and it made the gun a lot more attractive. Different deal that doing a rifle, and I haven't noticed any difference in function or accuracy, but it sure looks good!

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Originally Posted by catorres1
I would not do this myself, I am notorious for messing stuff up. But I supposed I could have it done. Would you bother on a stainless barrel?


Has it occurred to you that CREATING problems, where none really exist might be contributory to that unenviable skill ?

Calling down companies'(e.g. Hill Country) product quality, and the effects thereof on your rifle seems chickenchit in the extreme.

"I may have used two different lots of powder" ?

...and than you're immediately blaming Oehler's product....?

I'd say you need some sorta' help that's not going to be readily found here, Mate.

GTC.

Last edited by crossfireoops; 02/20/16.

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