Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Accuracy ruined by Cerekoting?

They are really nice people. Not their fault, they did what I asked them to do. I asked them to open the channel and told them why and they did it. But I moved out of the country for a while after that and a few other things, so it was better sold and moved on. It still shot really well, just not as wonderfully as it had.

I had one of those when I was a kid. I convinced my parents that it was much more useful than a class ring when I was in 10th grade. That was a great gun, fun to shoot!

I have a .270 700 ADL I bought 15 years ago. It has a cheesy factory synthetic stock and a 22" barrel. I prefer a 24" barrel in .270 and a wood stock. I've almost pulled the trigger a couple of times to restock and rebarrel it but didn't. The rifle is scary accurate and I'm afraid it won't be if I mess with it.

cdb,

I have the same deal going with my Tikka CTR. I planned to switch the stock out for an M40 from B and C. But it shoots so well, I just can't get myself to risk it. I took a precision rifle course and the instructor checked it out and he told me not to mess with it. So I am leaving well enough alone too!

This.

Think of it as a new coat of paint on the truck, won't affect how the engine performs typically.

Rost,

Thanks for the reply! I became concerned when they started talking about sticking it in an oven and the grease between the barrel and the receiver, especially, leaking out over days or even weeks.

That started me to wonder if it was a good idea.

But like you, everyone, to a man, have agreed that they have seen no adverse effect.

Usually, SOMEBODY has a story or experience where they it was different for them, but in this case, it's been unanimous, so I think it must be good to go!

Just have to pick a color....

Thanks!

You'll be fine.

Me, I don't much care for the stuff because it scratches.. I'm still looking for the right finish and that might end up being salt bath nitride and the gun coat over that, but thats just me...

I've got 2 that are cerracoated, both scratched prettty quick, but I use my guns and never baby them.

The only firearm that didn't shoot as well after cerokoting was one I saw with some of the coating baked inside the barrel. Guy was bringing it back to get it re-done and the cerokoting removed.

Just a few spatters inside and he said he was scattering shots all over the paper.

butchlambert hit it on the head with his comment about it not being inside.

The one's I've had done shoot as well as they did before I had it done.

Jeff,

One of the companies I've used to Cerakote says the hardness/durability of the coating depends on the percentage of silica (ceramic). They used a very hard coating on my .338, and while I haven't abused that rifle since it was coated as much as my NULA 30-06 (which was coated in titanium nitride before I received it almost 20 years ago) the .338's finish has stood up as well, meaning it's intact. (Well, the NULA's coating is intact on all the steel stuff, but the trigger guard is aluminum and there are a few tiny marks there, because the aluminum itself got dinged.)

My pair of Kilimanjaro rifles was also Cerakoted, and apparently they used one of the harder versions, as they're essentially unmarked except for a tiny bit of wear around the edges of the muzzle and steel triggers guards. I've used the 7x57 as much as the NULA .30-06 since it was put together a decade ago. However, one of my other walnut-stocked Cerakoted rifles apparently got a very soft coating because it has several scratches even though I haven't hunted it nearly as much as the 7x57.

I've only used my 26 Nosler one hunting season, but its Cerakoting is totally unscratched, so apparently it's a pretty hard version.

Interesting info.

I"ll remember that for research if I ever do it again.

John,

I thought Cerakote all came from one company, is the difference by color? Did that company specify where or how one would get a higher silica coating?

No, the difference is by color. Apparently there are different hardnesses of Cerakote for different uses.

It was originally developed as a heat-dissipation coating for stuff that gets really hot, like engine manifolds, since silica transmits heat quickly. Which makes Cerakote an effective coating for the barrels on prairie-dog rifles.

The guy I talked to is no longer with that particular company, so the best thing to do would be to contact the Cerakote company.

I've had cerakote, Teflon, and kg-gunkote. All of them wear at contact points and high spots. I would not waste money coating stainless. Rub it down with some Froglube if you're worried about it.

Okay, thanks. I was on the phone with them today talking colors, and they are sending me some swatches and I'm to circle back with them when they arrive. So I'll ask then as we move forward.

Thanks for all your help and advice!

I do want a higher level of corrosion resistance, though in reality, while I hope to need it, year after year passes and I don't. But I still hope.

That being said, another reason is aesthetics. I really wanted a different look for various reasons, so Cerekote seems a good way to go as I get both in the end, whether I need it or not.