Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Bedding a rifle...tape the lug or not?

I will be bedding my Montana and a couple other rifles in a week or two. In the tutorial Brad posted for his Montana he used the tightened action screws to hold the action in and did not tape off the recoil lug.

I see that often when rifles are bedded a layer of tape is placed on the sides, front and bottom. I thought Brad may not have done this because of the shape of the Montana lug and the fact that he completely tightened the action screws using them instead of something else to hold the action in the stock when bedding.

Do any of you also bed the lug without using any tape? It sounds to me like it would cause the action to be held even better as long as you can still get it in and out of the stock when necessary.

I know you don't want tape on the rear bearing surface. I just wondered of folks do it either way depending on preference or if it just works because of the light skim bed on a rifle like the Montana that is already bedded to a slave action and because Brad was using the action bolts very tight during the bedding job.

I like to bed most things tight. This includes the Ruger m77 and Winchester model 70 and CZ550 and old M1917 sporters I've glassed in the past.. However, when bedding, I don't snug the action screws down tight. Just enough to keep the action in the right spot. This also keeps you from torqueing/twisting the action. The action should lay in there in a neutral state while glass bedding is curing. You can later torque the action screws down tight or to spec after the bedding compound has cured.

I tape the front, sides, and bottom of the lug.

Brad's reasoning for completely tightening the action screws on the Montana was so the action would contact the pillars and have a metal to metal contact.

I don't put tape on the sides of the lug. Full side contact helps resist rotation of the action at the shot. If there is space, the action will rotate in the bedding to the point of lug contact; the action screws don't have the ability to stop the rotation. It's not much but I want solid contact every direction but the front. I also bed the pillars in the stock with them attached to the action, then come back and bed the action so there is no stress.

It would seem with pillars that there wouldnt be much of a problem with torquing the action. I thought I'd read that Brad goes farmer tight for the initial squish, then backs off.

Doesn't hurt to lub the lug once you pop it apart.

I've read his tutorial a few times.if i am reading it correctly he goes farmer tight during the bedding then to spec torque when reassembling after it is done.

No tape
I also use the action screws at German spec tightness as the epoxy cures

Can you translate "German spec tightness" for me into southern redneck?

If you use tape, the barreled action will come out of the stock easily when you want. If you glass bed without tape it is more difficult. I don't think there's any difference in accuracy doing it one way or the other.

It's your choice both work.

I tape the front and bottom. Never had but the best luck.

Just curious what your rationale is for taping the front, sides, and bottom.

You know, Goodntight

The reason is to make it easier to remove the barreled action and because people say to do it.

I've done Howa 1500s, sav 110s, & LR98 Mausers with great results but never tape lugs at all.

I like em in full contact with no wiggle room from just in front of the lug to the mag well.

No tape and 2 or 3 layers of duct tape under the barrel all the way to the lug.
Gives a great free float, and a nice tight fit.
Screws just snugged up....

I thought everyone here knew what German tight meant...

I've bedded Remingtons with and without tape on the front, bottom and sided of the lug, just the front, and just the bottom. I've never done any extensive testing but I never could tell that it made a difference in accuracy.

Anymore I tape the front sides and bottom just because it is easier to remove and replace the action in the stock later on. I often go back with a Dremel and deepen the bottom in the stock. Reason being that if a piece of dirt or something drops in there, I don't want it putting upward pressure on the lug causing stress on the action. Some argue that with the oversize lug cavity that you are more likely for something to work it's way in. Others argue that if the front and/or sides are tight that you are more likely the lug itself will scrape a little bedding into the bottom of the cavity creating upward pressure.

I make it loose and make sure it is clean whenever the action is replaced into the stock. Works for me.


YMMV.

I don't tape the lugs but do use tape around the barrel at the end of the forearm to align the barrel in the channel before bedding the action.

No tape here. I use 20-mil plumber's tape to free-float the barrel, usually from the end of the shank forward.

Once it all comes out I grease the lug.