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Joined: Dec 2011
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Campfire Outfitter
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OP
Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2011
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I will be bedding my Montana and a couple other rifles in a week or two. In the tutorial Brad posted for his Montana he used the tightened action screws to hold the action in and did not tape off the recoil lug.
I see that often when rifles are bedded a layer of tape is placed on the sides, front and bottom. I thought Brad may not have done this because of the shape of the Montana lug and the fact that he completely tightened the action screws using them instead of something else to hold the action in the stock when bedding.
Do any of you also bed the lug without using any tape? It sounds to me like it would cause the action to be held even better as long as you can still get it in and out of the stock when necessary.
I know you don't want tape on the rear bearing surface. I just wondered of folks do it either way depending on preference or if it just works because of the light skim bed on a rifle like the Montana that is already bedded to a slave action and because Brad was using the action bolts very tight during the bedding job.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
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I like to bed most things tight. This includes the Ruger m77 and Winchester model 70 and CZ550 and old M1917 sporters I've glassed in the past.. However, when bedding, I don't snug the action screws down tight. Just enough to keep the action in the right spot. This also keeps you from torqueing/twisting the action. The action should lay in there in a neutral state while glass bedding is curing. You can later torque the action screws down tight or to spec after the bedding compound has cured.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Jan 2010
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,621 |
I tape the front, sides, and bottom of the lug.
John 8:12 "I am the light of the world. Whoever follows me will never walk in darkness, but will have the light of life."
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,972
Campfire Outfitter
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OP
Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,972 |
I like to bed most things tight. This includes the Ruger m77 and Winchester model 70 and CZ550 and old M1917 sporters I've glassed in the past.. However, when bedding, I don't snug the action screws down tight. Just enough to keep the action in the right spot. This also keeps you from torqueing/twisting the action. The action should lay in there in a neutral state while glass bedding is curing. You can later torque the action screws down tight or to spec after the bedding compound has cured. Brad's reasoning for completely tightening the action screws on the Montana was so the action would contact the pillars and have a metal to metal contact.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 97
Campfire Greenhorn
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Campfire Greenhorn
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 97 |
I don't put tape on the sides of the lug. Full side contact helps resist rotation of the action at the shot. If there is space, the action will rotate in the bedding to the point of lug contact; the action screws don't have the ability to stop the rotation. It's not much but I want solid contact every direction but the front. I also bed the pillars in the stock with them attached to the action, then come back and bed the action so there is no stress.
Last edited by WapitiBob; 09/25/16.
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Joined: Feb 2010
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Feb 2010
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It would seem with pillars that there wouldnt be much of a problem with torquing the action. I thought I'd read that Brad goes farmer tight for the initial squish, then backs off.
Doesn't hurt to lub the lug once you pop it apart.
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Joined: Dec 2011
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
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It would seem with pillars that there wouldnt be much of a problem with torquing the action. I thought I'd read that Brad goes farmer tight for the initial squish, then backs off.
Doesn't hurt to lub the lug once you pop it apart. I've read his tutorial a few times.if i am reading it correctly he goes farmer tight during the bedding then to spec torque when reassembling after it is done.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
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No tape I also use the action screws at German spec tightness as the epoxy cures
Maker of the Frankenstud Sling Keeper
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No tape I also use the action screws at German spec tightness as the epoxy cures Can you translate "German spec tightness" for me into southern redneck?
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: May 2014
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If you use tape, the barreled action will come out of the stock easily when you want. If you glass bed without tape it is more difficult. I don't think there's any difference in accuracy doing it one way or the other.
It's your choice both work.
I prefer classic. Semper Fi I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
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I tape the front and bottom. Never had but the best luck.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Jun 2006
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I tape the front, sides, and bottom of the lug. Just curious what your rationale is for taping the front, sides, and bottom.
A wise man is frequently humbled.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,930 |
No tape I also use the action screws at German spec tightness as the epoxy cures Can you translate "German spec tightness" for me into southern redneck? You know, Goodntight
When I die I hope I don't start voting democrat.
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Joined: May 2014
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
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If you use tape, the barreled action will come out of the stock easily when you want. If you glass bed without tape it is more difficult. I don't think there's any difference in accuracy doing it one way or the other.
It's your choice both work. The reason is to make it easier to remove the barreled action and because people say to do it.
I prefer classic. Semper Fi I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally
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Joined: Nov 2007
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 29,667 Likes: 5 |
I tape the front, sides, and bottom of the lug. I've done Howa 1500s, sav 110s, & LR98 Mausers with great results but never tape lugs at all. I like em in full contact with no wiggle room from just in front of the lug to the mag well.
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Joined: Jul 2008
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Jul 2008
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No tape and 2 or 3 layers of duct tape under the barrel all the way to the lug. Gives a great free float, and a nice tight fit. Screws just snugged up....
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Joined: Aug 2010
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,200 Likes: 23 |
No tape I also use the action screws at German spec tightness as the epoxy cures Can you translate "German spec tightness" for me into southern redneck? You know, Goodntight I thought everyone here knew what German tight meant...
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2003
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I've bedded Remingtons with and without tape on the front, bottom and sided of the lug, just the front, and just the bottom. I've never done any extensive testing but I never could tell that it made a difference in accuracy.
Anymore I tape the front sides and bottom just because it is easier to remove and replace the action in the stock later on. I often go back with a Dremel and deepen the bottom in the stock. Reason being that if a piece of dirt or something drops in there, I don't want it putting upward pressure on the lug causing stress on the action. Some argue that with the oversize lug cavity that you are more likely for something to work it's way in. Others argue that if the front and/or sides are tight that you are more likely the lug itself will scrape a little bedding into the bottom of the cavity creating upward pressure.
I make it loose and make sure it is clean whenever the action is replaced into the stock. Works for me.
YMMV.
Those who are always shooting off at the mouth usually aren't shooting straight. Build a man a fire and he’ll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire and he’ll be warm for the rest of his life. www.wvcdl.org
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Joined: Mar 2004
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Mar 2004
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I don't tape the lugs but do use tape around the barrel at the end of the forearm to align the barrel in the channel before bedding the action.
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Joined: Jun 2000
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 11,316 Likes: 14 |
No tape here. I use 20-mil plumber's tape to free-float the barrel, usually from the end of the shank forward.
Once it all comes out I grease the lug.
"What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives every thing its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as freedom should not be highly rated." Thomas Paine
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