Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Muzzleloaders lube between shots for large connicals?

Guys, I am trying to get some better accuracy and am wondering if you are all lubing between each shot. I am getting very erratic results and had someone suggest that I am getting leaded and fouled out due to lack of lube and that cleaning and lubing between shots would get a better result.

The question is if this is common and if others have a similar result with large conical bullets (using no excuses 460 and 495gr).

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Steve

Most times No Excuse are slip-fit conicals,meaning they slide down the bore a little too loose.
Other issues with using heavy conicals is twofold really.

1) Folks need to consider using a wad behind the bullet.
50 Caliber Lubed Wool Wads (100 Pack)...by EASTERN MAINE SHOOTING SUPPLIES work well.
Another option is to use your powder volume measurer and pour 25-30gr of yellow cornmeal before the bullet.

2) Too much powder being loaded. Often times, the vicinity of 70grs of powder will reduce the spread of shot patterns and shoot straight.... even beyond 100 yards. These heavy conical bullets have long-range power and travel a long ways, using less powder than many realize.Those wads I mentioned will stop the energy inside your bore from escaping out the outer wall, allowing you maximum range with more downrange power.

If you don't have cormeal or wads, fill the bottom hollow cup at the bottom of the bullet with bore butter or a similar lube. That will help, but with reduced odds of accuracy.

I think that is good advice given above. My brother shoots competively ball and patch. Too much powder is a killer 4 his accuracy also. I also believe a fouled barrel is essential for under bored conicals..


Just not too fouled

NoExcuses are sized to .503 unless ordered smaller. Most 50s ive owned were .502 or less. Hard to believe they would be too loose especially if you have a T/C or CVA.

Knowing what rifle and powder you are using would help a great deal.

None of mine had a cupped base so the BB idea isnt going to help. They are flat based bullets.

Try either a fiber wad or wool wad for sure and try keep the powder charges in the 60-80gr range.

BTW if you are shooting a T/C the problem could be the QLA. Many are cut off center of the bore and they shoot very poorly with conicals.

Are you still shooting that Traditions Vortek Ultralight LDR Magnum? I believe the Traditions Speed Load System is similar to the T/C QLA.

Thanks guys for the responses.

Yes, still shooting (or trying to) the Vortek.

I am also using MMP sub bases.

Powders being used are 777 in both FFG and FFFG, as well as Alliant Black mz.

In addition to the No Excuses Bullets, I have used Hornady Great Plains (worst results) and all various forms of TC Maxiballs.

Getting to a point I need to make drastic changes to get a better result up to changing guns (would rather not) as I have been chasing this to some extent for two years.

Any further thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Have you ever shot an accurate muzzeloader? Where do you live in Idaho?

No, this is the only ML I have ever fired. Live in Eagle.

No, this is the only ML I have ever fired. Live in Eagle.

Steve-my muzzy isn't an inline, but it has a 1 in 32 twist. I think yours is 1 in 28. In my experience backing the powder down was the way to go for some bullets. I never could get buffalo bullets to shoot well out of it. The old deerslayer conicals worked great with 80 grains, but they are discontinued. Patched rounds balls shoot really accurately with 40 grains of powder. Yet with 60 grains the rifling tears up the patches with no constancy on paper. (that 40 gr. load has killed two whitetails the last two previous years, both being pass through lung shots). With the maxiballs, try 60 grains just to see if you can get a good group then work around from there. The gun will have a sweet spot for a type of bullet and load it likes, it's just sometimes hell trying to find it.

LNF150,thanks for the input. I'm planning to do some shooting this weekend, so hope to have some better results to report.

When shooting a muzzeloader I find holding the fore stock firmly compared to letting it float like shooting a centerfire. I was told the projectile is so slow it does not leave the barrel fast enough not to be impacted by the recoil. I have found it helps.

Steve
You have failed to mention the make & model ML rifle you have.

If it's an inline T/C with the QLA System, conical shooting can be subpar to your liking.

I have, but I shoot traditional rifles, both for hunting and target work. RB and conicals, cloth and paper patched, albeit only with BP. Never lube between shots, nor wipe with patched round balls. For target work I wipe the bore with a damp patch and follow with a dry one, ML or cartridge gun.

While not a muzzleloader, many of the serious BPCR folks, who obviously use black powder, will wipe their bores between shots. The goal is to soften or remove powder fouling and assure a consistent bore condition from shot to shot. These are people who play the thousand yard+ game. Usually one or two wet patches followed by a dry. All manner of concoctions go into their wiping solutions. One might explore the Shiloh Sharps forums for suggestions.

I run a fairly voluminous dry patch down my muzzleloader bore between shots during target sessions. Sure makes loading a bit easier if one is doing a number of rounds. I've not reached a level of perfection though with my BPCR equipment.

I run a damp patch down after every shot when I am at the range. I probably use the same patch 7 or 8 times, flipping over when it is very fouled. It is just wet enough to loosen the fouling, not really clean it. I certainly don't want my charge wet. This method works for me, and it is ingrained when I go to the range. With this method, the slugs go down, and out with the same tightness.
I'll also add that sometimes very tight loading is not conductive to accuracy. Of course every statement is dependent upon the rifling cut and depth. I have some flintlocks that only shoot one magic recipe, and scatter similar rounds. Other shoot many combinations well. Generally I had more success accuracy wise with moderate loads like 75 grains of 3F, with loose sabots in fast twist, and same BP with moderately tight patch in slow twist deep rifling. Too tight seems to deform balls, and gum up rifling with sabots.
Maybe the moral is, sometimes it is easy to get one to shoot, and other times it takes some trial and error. Keeping the barrel fouling loose keeps things consistent.