|
|
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 195
Campfire Member
|
OP
Campfire Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 195 |
Got a barreled action with light to moderate pitting that I would like to Cerakote with the oven dry finish resembling a satin rust blue. Is there a treatment to fill the pits that will withstand the temps involved in the curing process? Also,would the midnight blue color be fairly close to satin rust blue or is another shade a better match? Thank You!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,113 Likes: 12
Campfire 'Bwana
|
Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,113 Likes: 12 |
Midnight blue is probably the closest thing to the look of bluing in the Cerakote line, unless things have changed. Have your applicator add a little extra hardener to the mix for a little more shine. Eddie F. or Karl Campfield would be the ones to ask about hiding pits. I know when I've done body work, I've used spot putty, but I don't know what they do when cerakoting something...
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 615
Campfire Regular
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 615 |
As to filling pits, I would not use spot putty. Might not hold up the baking step. Duracoat makes a pit filling material called Durafil. Don't know if it would hold up either. Why not take a hint from Duracoat, spray a heavy coat of Cerakoat on the pitted area, bake, then sand down to leave the pits full, like filling the grain on wood.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,113 Likes: 12
Campfire 'Bwana
|
Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,113 Likes: 12 |
I'm definitely not suggesting spot putty either...
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 56,321 Likes: 9
Campfire Kahuna
|
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 56,321 Likes: 9 |
I had one with some heavy pitting on the exterior and I had it powdercoated with a heavy texture. Powder coating is extremely durable.
_______________________________________________________ An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
LOL
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 195
Campfire Member
|
OP
Campfire Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 195 |
I have used DuraCoat and do have some DuraFill that I might try.The suggestion of a heavy coat of Cerakote and sanding it might be worth a try, too. Brownells catalog states that curing for two hours at 200 degrees would be adequate.That would lessen chances of a disaster with under coating the piece. Thanks!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 886
Campfire Regular
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 886 |
The alternate cure temp for sensitive items is 150 degrees for 3 hours. I have never done it but have heard JB weld has been used successfully to fill pits. After it's sanded level you still have to blast with aluminum oxide to prep. Just blast very light over the JB Weld. Devcon steel or titanium epoxy should work well if you have any laying around.
As far a using Cerakote to fill a pit Cerakote will not really fill voids nor will it stick to itself once cured. A better fix would be to sand and file out the imperfections. That's what a hot blue job would usually include as part of the prep.
"Hired Gun" Quickest and fastest all motor sand car on the planet. 3.008 at 104.8 300' of sand.
NRA Patron Life Member, Gunsmith, Instructor, Chief RSO
|
|
|
|
667 members (160user, 10gaugemag, 06hunter59, 1beaver_shooter, 204guy, 1badf350, 69 invisible),
2,704
guests, and
1,457
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums81
Topics1,192,609
Posts18,492,430
Members73,972
|
Most Online11,491 Jul 7th, 2023
|
|
|
|
|