Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Winchester Collectors Peep sight for model 70 recommendations

Similar, I zero my Lyman receiver peep on my 300 H&H to hit dead on 3"s high at 100 yards, I want the bullet to land approximately +3 smack on top of the front bead, lands at +3 at 200 yards also.

Thought being, run the bead up just into the brisket on an animal, having the bullet impacting high makes sure I dont cover the animal with the bead itself, works very well for the ranges I hunt.

The 220 gr Partitions leaving the muzzle at 2750 will perform very well out to 300 yards, can't think of any animal short of ele or cape buffalo I wouldn't turn this load loose on.

I wish my eyes were good enough to use peep sights...

Where we hunt (Vermont) with that buck law a scope can see a 3" antler better than irons.

Remove the aperture when I hunt with a receiver sight....

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At dawn, dusk, or any other low light hunting situation.

I'm very thankful/lucky to have good vision at this stage of life.

Where I hunt I have about 100 yards as the max to see a deer let alone shoot it. I also hunt where a legal buck must have at least three points on one side. I use a binocular to confirm a shootable buck, and I've zeroed my rifle (Pre-64 FWT .30-06 with a Redfield receiver sight) to put the bullet under the center of the bead at 100 yards. That way, the shot always falls under the bead, so I just put the bead where I want to hit the deer. If I'm shooting at longer ranges, I use a rifle with a scope. Like the others, I pull out the aperture while hunting.

Removing the aperture to create a ghost ring is all the rage these days. I don't get it. Unless one has good sharp young eyes, a ghost ring becomes a "no ring" and without any definition of a circle, how can the eye find the center of it?

Another purpose of an aperture is to focus light. Unfortunately while the smaller the aperture the more focused an image becomes, it comes at the cost of diminished light transmittal. The solution, for me, is to use a Merit adjustable aperture. It works like a camera iris and can be opened or closed to match current light conditions, and because of its relatively wide rim it always provides a well defined perimeter of the circle.

I grew up as a target shooter and had the 6 o'clock hold drilled into my head. To rely on the bullet impacting somewhere under my bead is anathema to me, plus even a 1/16" bead blocks out a heckuva large amount of the target at 100 yards. For me it's all about the precision of having the bullet impact at the top of the bead, plus it makes holdover precision for longer shots more achievable... IMO.

All of that assumes a bead front sight. What about the guys who use a sourdough front sight, or a blade front sight? Those of us who employ all of the above on different guns are well advised to simply employ a 6 o'clock hold and be done with it.

Different strokes, I guess.

Having trained in the military, a ghost ring is second nature to me, so no issue there. I can still shoot expert with irons. But I don't use that as a yardstick for measuring hunting accuracy.

With a bead sight, if I know the shot is centered in the bead out to 100, I still know where it is going to hit with relative certainty. Certainly enough to put one in a deer's lungs within 100 yards. If the deer is farther out, I will not see it. If I am hunting in a place where I could see the deer over 100 yards, I have a different rifle. If the bead covers more than the vital area, the deer is too far and I don't shoot.

The merit adjustable may work for you, I've never tried one. but I doubt I will, because I'd hate to feel the need to mess with it when a shot could present itself. Just out of curiosity, do you adjust it as the light changes, or leave it set all day? I tend to leave even my variable scopes on one setting unless by some odd circumstance I have time and need to adjust.

Were I shooting targets, the 6 o'clock hold would be appropriate, but that is a defined, unmoving target. With a deer, it's size may differ, it may be presented at different angles, and it may be moving. Different situation entirely.

So, for me with my limitations, and the environment within which I hunt, my system works quite well. In another situation, I may vary my technique.

YMMV.

Thanks for all the input guys. I had a model 71 with the bolt peep at one time and found it best when I remvoved the
aperture. Im trying to locate a Lyman at a resonable cost.

Yup, different strokes.

With the Merit I start out with it wide open as the sun is coming up. I close it up as the day brightens. No big deal for someone who is intimate with his equipment.