Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Re Fitting Original Barrel Question

I bought a 19 Calhoon Hornet on a CZ 527 action from a friend, for an export reason the barrel was removed and posted over to me, the action will come via an export agent. My friend fired 3 cases before pulling the barrel, they have been left unsized.

Can the fired cases be used for head spacing when put back together? unfortunately he did not punch a mark on barrel and receiver.

Also should the cases be full length sized, neck sized or left alone

Thanks
Johno

Why would you need anything. Torque the barrel to the shoulder of the receiver and you are good to go. Headspace will not change.

Actually, it can - by .001-.0015.. Still not enough to worry about, overall..


I had a M70 in very recently that had one of the toughest barrels to remove I've ever had.. The bastids at Winnie musta used a pipe wrench with a 10-foot cheater. After it was off, just for S&G I tried to get that barrel back to the factory witness mark.. Couldn't get it there - was off by 1/16" at least...

Redneck: I got a rem 700 with a barrel that won't come off. Any hints? I got brownells wrench with 700 head and wood blocks and rosin. So far no luck. Mel

If it's one that goes inside the action it may not be a good idea to use that for a tough barrel removal.

Hints? Yeah - anchor a pipe wrench about 4" in back of your barrel vise and be prepared to use a mall on the action wrench...

But ONLY if the wrench you have is the outside-clamped one with a hole for an action screw.. Put aluminum shims around the action before you clamp it to ensure you do no damage to the action finish.. Parts from aluminum cans work very well.

Rem uses pipe-thread compound on their barrel threads - makes it ever so much fun to get 'em to move at times..


Only way easier is if you have a lathe and can chuck it up on a mandrel and remove material a few thousandths away from the receiver face to ease pressure on the shoulder..

Once that shoulder's relieved it should come off very easily.. BTDT.

Be aware that you want the barrel as tight as you can get it,but over tighten the wrap around wrench and it makes more work. I load it up and give the handle a whack with a mallet. It'll come.

Thanks! I have the brownells wrench with the screw. The wrench that goes in the bolt ways-I have one but am leery of that. The finish on the receiver ring is black paint over rust - so aluminum shims are un necessary. Am soaking it in Kroil now. Will try again later. Necking cut may be in the future... Mel

If you have a raceway type wrench, be sure to insert it all the way to the front ring.

My gunsmithing instructor at CSOT (Denver) always told us - "Don't force it - use a bigger hammer!" I've always assumed he was joking....

but there were times....

I bought a Stainless Howa heavy barrel in 22-250. I wanted to take it apart for someone and make a stainless 358 Winchester for him.

I never pulled a factory barrel on a new rifle that was so hard to remove. I checked the threads (55 degree and metric.) For fun I tried screwing the barrel back on and getting it to the place it came from the factory. I ended up touching up the shoulder of the barrel in the lathe, and taking a head space gauge to set the thing back up.

I was afraid I'd twist the action if I pushed harder on the cheater. Tight enough is tight enough.

Johno: sorry to hijack your thread, hope your CZ527 comes out OK. Mel ps> the barrel still wont budge. I checked the depth of the scope base screw in the receiver ring over the barrel and the screw is out for sure. I guess I gotta make barrel blocks out of end grain hardwood, the doug fir is too soft and keeps splitting. Mel

The other problem with Rem barrels is the near-immediate taper; very hard to get a full-length grip w/blocks - which is why you may end up using the pipe wrench to anchor that barrel while you work the action wrench, or chuck it up in the lathe and make that relief cut - that is, if you don't intend to use that barrel again and/or toss it in the 'round file'..

Some judicious heat from a heat gun (or torch) on the receiver should soften the thread compound if that is the culprit. You just need to get it hot enough so you can't touch it (~200-250 F). The heat will also cause the receiver to temporarily expand slightly, breaking corrosion bonds. You'll still probably need to give the wrench a good hard smack with a heavy hammer. Sharp blow works better than gradual pressure.

Hey Mel, no problem mate sometimes when things run off topic some interesting things come out IE the barrel removel

I would still like to know if using a fired case and original barrel do full length soze the case, neck size or leave. I put the case in the barrel chamber and I can push it in tight and still remove the case with my fingers so I guess tht would make a good head space gauge. Being an improved hornet case, thin etc I guess the brass shrunk back a bit ( is shrunk a word LOL)

Johno

I had the same problem with wood blocks splitting. I ended up springing for the aluminum 'clamshells' that Brownells sell for the barrel vise. I only purchased the one designed for Rem Sporter barrels. I've turned others from aluminum round stock since then and as needed. With the aluminum blocks, resin, a BFH, and a touch of heat, I have yet not have a barrel come off. There will come a day though - I just know it.

The tightest barrels I have seen are on Vanguards/Howa type rifles. They are crazy tight. They all get a relief cut near the shoulder as I never save the barrels anyway.

Older Sakos can be super tight also. I have cut reliefs in a few of those and tossed the barrels.

Worst barrel removal I ever ran across was an Interarms Mark X in 270 Win. Ended up cutting the barrel off ahead of the receiver and boring out the stub. The thread was full of rust and various other garbage. The outside of the rifle was fine.

Johno: imho, neck sizing is best. If the fired case fired in that original barrel looks normal - no bulges, incipient case/head separation and or primer protruding, then it SHOULD be OK. Since it is a wildcat - no factory headspace gages are available? OR would a 22 hornet gage work? Good luck with it, Mel

Hey Redneck and the Gang: I made new blocks out of some sort of Brazilian hardwood that a Lagun ? lathe was packed in( hopefully no toxic sawdust!) and I plan to sandblast the area where the blocks will go as well as use lots of rosin. Stay Tuned! Mel

For years I have used straight bored wooden blocks well greased and filled with Simpson Acrylic Tie. This is a two part epoxy used for setting bolts in concrete. Takes about ten minutes to set up and never ever slips. Never have used any other bolt setting epoxy but I am sure others would work. Just squirt it out on cardboard and mix it up. I do not use release on the barrel, tapping with a brass hammer breaks it off. My action wrench fully circles the receiver plus the 1/4x28 screw. Made it out of 2"x2" stock with the handle end extending about a foot. One swat with a 5# lead hammer has never failed to take off a factory barrel with no damage to the barrel or receiver. Dale My epoxy has an expiration date of 012 on it and sets up with no problem