I dug out a M-98 that I have had for while. I looked through my pile and found a scope, mount and rings. I mounted and locked everything down. I even lapped the rings! I thought, "I am good"! Then I put the bolt back in, or at least I tried to bolt back in! I then realize, I not so good! I should have checked long before I lock-tited and torqued everything down. A rookie mistake!
My question? What is entailed in changing the bolt handle? I there anyone out there specializing in details like this! I can get taller rings but, I wanted to use a all the components that I already have! Its a 40mm objective and tall rings would leave me with an undesirable height above the bore line!
Problem is the placement. Commonly done be people that don't really understand the geometry. The handle was done to not need to notch the action at all or much. You can't get a low mounted scope that way. There is no reason to need to get a handle that thin and still not get clearance. That's why you are getting the recommendations to use a smith proficient in mausers. Don
I understand the safety now! Good pic Jkob! I assume the shroud would need to change to convert to a "Left to right" lever? Now that I study the design, I wonder why it would be designed to rotate in an arch? The ergonomics are definitely more logical for the side moving lever, especially if you had a cheek weld looking at a target!
Don- this must have been a common problem in the past!
Thanks for the posting!
On a totally unrelated subject: Similar to the M-98, I bought a 1903-A3 a few years back mainly for the trigger(Canjar Set)! Its a Flaig Ace- 24"-Heavy Target/Varmit- 22-250 Remington with 1:14" Twist!
What bullets will stabilize? Seems like my other 22-250's have 1:12 which shoots 45-55gr really well.
Thanks for the info! There is no question, Dan has done some good looking work! Just like most of the other things in my life, seeing the pics of the square bridge receiver reminds me of another incomplete project I started way back when. I have a Kimber of Oregon Inc. Model 89 BGR in 7MM Mag. I still need to find scope rings to fit!
I've had a number of mauser type rifles rebarreled, sporterized for a scope to be installed. As suggested, either have a new bolt handle welded on the bolt or find a gunsmith that knows how to forge the original bolt handle to the shape/height you need to clear your scope. Forging, means the smith heats the bolt handle enough to beat it to the shape/height it needs to be to clear a scope. I've had a couple of times the smith cut and welded on a new bolt handle and he did not remove enough of the metal of original bolt that joined the bolt body....so handle at highest position had a problem clearing the scope.....required me to use scope rings higher than I wanted to use. But, there have been a couple of times, on Swedish bent bolt military mauser type rifles, I could just remove metal from bolt handle that contacted the scope. Never could do this with a German type 98 bent bolt mauser rifle.
I've had a number of mauser type rifles rebarreled, sporterized for a scope to be installed. As suggested, either have a new bolt handle welded on the bolt or find a gunsmith that knows how to forge the original bolt handle to the shape/height you need to clear your scope. Forging, means the smith heats the bolt handle enough to beat it to the shape/height it needs to be to clear a scope. I've had a couple of times the smith cut and welded on a new bolt handle and he did not remove enough of the metal of original bolt that joined the bolt body....so handle at highest position had a problem clearing the scope.....required me to use scope rings higher than I wanted to use. But, there have been a couple of times, on Swedish bent bolt military mauser type rifles, I could just remove metal from bolt handle that contacted the scope. Never could do this with a German type 98 bent bolt mauser rifle.
I believe you are close to Tomball. Do you use the Tomball range?