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Originally Posted by Jim in Idaho
I wouldn't know what it best either but I know one thing that works, and that is Montana Xtreme Bore Solvent or their Copper Killer if you really want to get copper out.

The breech end of the bore is plugged a 50 cent tapered rubber stopper available at most any hardware store, then I squirt two or three droppers full of bore solvent down the muzzle - the Montana products come with a small pipette dropper thingy. Then I take about a 4" square of doubled over plastic grocery bag and secure it tightly over the muzzle with a rubber band wrapped several times.

The rifle is turned up and down a few times to spread the solvent over the interior, then I lay it flat and walk away. If I remember, every couple hours I might turn the rifle over, or not.

After a few hours or if I started in the evening then the next morning I remove the plastic grocery bag and let the now blue solvent run into a trash can and remove the breech plug. Patch #1 from the breech end pushes out the remainder of the blue goop. Patch #2 for insurance helps dry it. Patch #3 has lighter fluid or maybe 90% alcohol on it to clean and dry off any solvent left. Patch #4 is dry. Patch #5 has Montana Gun Oil on it to oil the bore. I suppose I could eliminate patch #2 and/or #3 but I like to keep some anality in my routine for old time's sake.

About 5 minutes or less total time spent cleaning a very, very dirty rifle bore, no brushing or scrubbing required. I know it is clean since a test patch of Montana Copper Killer on a non-brass anywhere rod and patch combo comes out with zero trace of blue, and that stuff will turn blue if you bring a real copper penny within three feet of it.


Lots of ways to clean a rifle thoroughly, I certainly don't claim that my way works and no else's does, just that this is the way I do it and it works. I hear Wipe-Out works just as well but I've never tried it so can't say from personal experience.


I like what you're doing there. I too allow the chemicals to do the bulk of the work, rather than trying to wear-out a cleaning rod.


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One "problem" I had using wipe out....had some rags on top of buttstock to avoid getting any solvent on stock as I was running several treatments thru barrel from bore end, letting soak for hours and repeating. Well, when it was finished and I removed rags I found some Wipe Out had got between rags and ran down side of stock which removed some of the finish. So avoid getting any on your stock, or wipe off immediately, don't be a dumb-azz like me.

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Originally Posted by nick
One "problem" I had using wipe out....had some rags on top of buttstock to avoid getting any solvent on stock as I was running several treatments thru barrel from bore end, letting soak for hours and repeating. Well, when it was finished and I removed rags I found some Wipe Out had got between rags and ran down side of stock which removed some of the finish. So avoid getting any on your stock, or wipe off immediately, don't be a dumb-azz like me.

Yep.

Did the same thing and of course, it was a really nice Tung Oil/Urethan finished rifle I had done.

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I thought that only happened to me!

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Outer's Foul Out System although I also use the 1/2 Kroil and1/2 Shooters Choice mixture


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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
Originally Posted by nick
One "problem" I had using wipe out....had some rags on top of buttstock to avoid getting any solvent on stock as I was running several treatments thru barrel from bore end, letting soak for hours and repeating. Well, when it was finished and I removed rags I found some Wipe Out had got between rags and ran down side of stock which removed some of the finish. So avoid getting any on your stock, or wipe off immediately, don't be a dumb-azz like me.

Yep.

Did the same thing and of course, it was a really nice Tung Oil/Urethan finished rifle I had done.

DF



If you guys would buy schittty rifles like I do you wouldn't have that problem......


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Never seen bore cleaner do anything to a Mc Millan stock.....


We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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I run Sweet's whilst wrenching on a car or another firearm so never found it lacking from a time in motion perspective. Multi-tasking was my career. These days, retired, really?


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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
Originally Posted by nick
One "problem" I had using wipe out....had some rags on top of buttstock to avoid getting any solvent on stock as I was running several treatments thru barrel from bore end, letting soak for hours and repeating. Well, when it was finished and I removed rags I found some Wipe Out had got between rags and ran down side of stock which removed some of the finish. So avoid getting any on your stock, or wipe off immediately, don't be a dumb-azz like me.

Yep.

Did the same thing and of course, it was a really nice Tung Oil/Urethan finished rifle I had done.

DF



If you guys would buy schittty rifles like I do you wouldn't have that problem......

laugh

I have some nothing can touch, McM's etc.

But, I have a few nice ones, like this HVA I restored. Of course, it was the one. I tried to match the finish, came close.

Link: https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/8948791/1

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I'd put the Barnes to it.

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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer

I like Wipe out and Patch out, have used Eliminator and others.

Are JB and I the only DBC fans?

Properly applied DBC treatment, the copper problem is almost a non problem.



I use it on all rifle barrels, period.................just can't think of any reason not to as it helps, & usually helps a lot.

As for a copper remover, for the most parts, Bore Tech Eliminator has almost no odor & for my DBC treated barrels, it work very well.

KG-12 works much slower, IME, Montana Extremes versions work well but the odor is stronger than I usually want to put up with & I usually don't need it's extra strength.

I will use Wipe Out if I have time to leave it sit overnight but I am usually cleaning multiple rifles to I use the BTC, let it sit in one rifle for the time I am working on other rifles.

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Originally Posted by hanco
I didn't know Cooper could climb in a barrel??


Who is Cooper?


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Gun Slick, soak the bore over night scrub it a little with bore brush and wipe it with patches and comes out squeaky clean.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Crow hunter,

I've tried KG-12 in several barrels. I may have a bad batch, but it simply has not removed copper as well as several other products. The first barrel I tried it in was on a used .270 purchased here on the Campfire Classfiieds, which was heavily copper-fouled. I gave up on the KG after a couple of days of not making much headway. What method are you using? I followed the directions on the container.


Mule Deer,

I'm at a loss to explain why it didn't work for you like it did me, it's worked great for me. I'm still on my first bottle, I haven't tried multiple bottles so can't say that every batch works as good as mine.

I first clean all the carbon out of the barrel with regular solvent using brushes and patches before I go at the copper. With the KG12 I put a patch on a jag and soak the jag heavily through the port in my bore guide. I then use a back and forth motion down the barrel short stroking it about 2" forward and back each time until I push the patch out the end of the barrel. I usually do the short stroking routine for about a minute working my way from breech to muzzle. I let it sit about 5 minutes then dry patch, then repeat the soaked patch/short stroke scrubbing routine. I usually do this when I'm breaking in a new barrel with the one shot/clean routine (I'm one of those guys), I've found I can get the copper out a lot quicker with the KG12 than the ammonia based cleaners. Usually I can get all the copper out of one of my break in barrels in two or three iterations of this procedure.

I haven't tried it on a bore that fouls heavily, I've mostly used it on new custom barrels that only foul a little during the break in. I used to use Sweets or CR10 for it until I tried the KG12. I'm not sure what it's got for an active agent in it, it's not ammonia because you don't get the blue coloring like with Sweets/CR10/Montana Extreme.

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Crow hunter,

Thanks for the details. Are you using a bore-scope to determine the amount of copper in the barrel?


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A heads up for anyone using ammonia based copper solvents. ie Sweets, butches bore, Barnes, etc. They all loose their ammonia component as they get older, even in a tightly closed bottle. Have seen this many times. Recently went to a friends and he was cursing "sweets" as he could see copper at the muzzle and sweets was not even turning patches blue. Took a whiff of the sweets and just the slightest trace of ammonia smell. Basically he was cleaning his barrel with oil. If you have bottles of solvent in your car and it warms up the ammonia will gas off as soon as the bottle is opened and you now have oil.

When I was shooting competitive I would buy large bottles of butches bore shine as we were using it up pretty fast. But a few hours in the hot car and it was ineffective.
Borescope is really the only way to tell if is really clean.


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Bore Coat. Then Patch-Out liquid or Wipe-Out foam.
I quit all the smelly ammonia nostril killers. Sweet's was my fave back in my Highpower days. Then Montana Extreme. However - Wipe-Out foam, which I heard of here, doesn't have to be done outside.
Once you BC a barrel, you'll do all of them. Only Neanderthals who won't do anything their grandpappy didn't do wouldn't use BC.

A Cooper makes barrels, though I suppose a Cooper has gotten in a barrel more than once over the years.
Admiral Nelson got in a barrel when he was pickled with brandy.

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