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Persiandog,
I am glad you are OK and your rifle was not damaged. Here is some data from Quickload. This is not load data tested with pressure equipment so start low and work up. I would take Seafire's advice and start somewhere around 32.5 grains.
Cartridge : 6.5 Creedmoor Hornady Bullet : .264, 140, Remington PSP CoreLokt Useable Case Capaci: 48.790 grain H2O = 3.168 cm³ Cartridge O.A.L. L6: 2.800 inch = 71.12 mm Barrel Length : 22.0 inch = 558.8 mm Powder : IMR 3031
thanks very much for all suggestions , I will load 20 rounds and test it next week. At your experience level, how about just sticking with book loads, starting low and working up slowly. Don't develop bad habits.
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I bet he feels better about himself now. yes I do , I take the Darwin award but slowly learning :-) Continue using 3031, or ANY other powder without following pressure tested data in your 6.5 Creed and you will likely be receiving your Darwin posthumously! Get a couple of reloading manuals and work up a load following their pressure tested data and reloading procedures as outlined in those manuals. READ THE DAMN MANUALS!!! Better yet, use only factory ammo. You are endangering not only yourself but anyone else who maybe near you. Could Persiandog be a troll?? Find it hard to believe he could be as stupid as he appears to be....just don't see any learning going on here.
Last edited by MickeyD; 12/04/17.
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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Persiandog, I found some more info for you in an old IMR Manual. It has the 140 grain Remington and few others for you. The load data is for a 260 Remington which has a slightly higher case capacity so reduce it and work up.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Quick Loads puts that load at 74,000 psi. Is that a book load? no , couldn't find data for imr3031 and 6.5 CM and used similar data for other load , I will try 35 gr next week and post the results here. as you can see I am not experienced but learning. What precisely does this mean? I've worked with combinations that were unpublished but I've been at this a long time. Don't tangle with differential equations before you have a handle on freshman algebra.
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Actually, it is very bad advice to load without data for that specific cartridge, especially for a new shooter. Get a manual or two, a good scale, start at the minimum load and work up. Go buy some powder that’s shown on those loading tables for the bullet weight you will use.
Don’t shoot the remaining loads, pull the bullets and start over.
Last edited by GF1; 12/04/17.
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OP
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READ THE DAMN MANUALS!!! Better yet, use only factory ammo. You are endangering not only yourself but anyone else who maybe near you. Could Persiandog be a troll?? Find it hard to believe he could be as stupid as he appears to be....just don't see any learning going on here.
Not a troll . I get the manuals and follow the instructions , next week I'll post the results. you guys making me so proud :-) Don't tangle with differential equations before you have a handle on freshman algebra. my math skills are a lot better than my reloading , and I am very good at partial differential equations , let me know if you have any questions and i'll partially answer it.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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P/Dog...
Barm"s info posted is the source I used in coming up with a max of 32.5 grains...for 3031...
I'd say with the Creed, and your lack of experience... if you want to use 3031, which I think is a fine powder.... then set the max at 30 grains for your Creedmoor....with a 140 grain bullet..
if you want max velocity with a 140, from your rifle... then I'd consider H 4831SC...
but using the IMR 4831 data above.. I'd recommend starting at 40 grains and work up to a max charge of 42.5 grains...a mag primer wouldn't be needed...
keep a charge at 40 grains for IMR 4831 or H 4831SC, for a 140... then you will stay out of danger and trouble...
If you need more velocity for some reason, in a 6.5, then consider another cartridge...
trying to turn a 6.5 Creedmoor into a 6.5/06 or a 264 Win Mag, is going to get you hurt or worse... keep your life insurance policy paid up for the wife.... she might need it...
"Minus the killings, Washington has one of the lowest crime rates in the Country" Marion Barry, Mayor of Wash DC
“Owning guns is not a right. If it were a right, it would be in the Constitution.” ~Alexandria Ocasio Cortez
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Persiandog, I found some more info for you in an old IMR Manual. It has the 140 grain Remington and few others for you. The load data is for a 260 Remington which has a slightly higher case capacity so reduce it and work up.
this is great , I will also load a few rounds with IMR4350 just for comparison.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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READ THE DAMN MANUALS!!! Better yet, use only factory ammo. You are endangering not only yourself but anyone else who maybe near you. Could Persiandog be a troll?? Find it hard to believe he could be as stupid as he appears to be....just don't see any learning going on here.
Not a troll . I get the manuals and follow the instructions , next week I'll post the results. you guys making me so proud :-) Don't tangle with differential equations before you have a handle on freshman algebra. my math skills are a lot better than my reloading , and I am very good at partial differential equations , let me know if you have any questions and i'll partially answer it. If that's the case then you understand my advice. I'm a PhD in math, but I haven't "practiced professionally" in a while. I'll let you know if I get stuck.
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Persiandog , you have fallen into the trap that catches many new reloaders, that is, they try to get the absolute maximum velocity out of their rifle with the first load, and use the most powder they can possibly cram in, or, they use the wrong powder, or, they go to the hottest load in the book and start there.
ALWAYS, start low and work up. ALWAYS use the powders recommended in the manuals. ALWAYS subtract 10% from the maximum quoted loads to start with. ALWAYS load for best accuracy, not for absolute fastest load.
May I recommend you get a couple or three good reloading books and READ THEM CAREFULLY, several times? Respectfullly, you need all the help you can get before you hurt yourself or others.
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Pdog,
If you REALLY followed the manuals instructions the questions you posed by this thread would NEVER have been asked!
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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Quick Loads puts that load at 74,000 psi. Is that a book load? It's in Revelations. Very funny. According to the admission of the OP your prophecy may come to fruition.
"I never thought I'd live to see the day that a U.S. president would raise an army to invade his own country." Robert E. Lee
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The only time I suffered a stuck bolt aside from too much powder was too much WipeOut that found its way into my chamber. What a fiasco that was.
"I never thought I'd live to see the day that a U.S. president would raise an army to invade his own country." Robert E. Lee
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Quick Loads puts that load at 74,000 psi. Is that a book load? HaHaHaHaHa ETA: i first read it as. "is that a bad load?" struck my funny bone.
Last edited by keith_dunlap; 12/04/17.
if a man speaks, and there isn't a woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
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[quote=Seafire]P/Dog...
Barm"s info posted is the source I used in coming up with a max of 32.5 grains...for 3031...
I'd say with the Creed, and your lack of experience... if you want to use 3031, which I think is a fine powder.... then set the max at 30 grains for your Creedmoor....with a 140 grain bullet..
if you want max velocity with a 140, from your rifle... then I'd consider H 4831SC...
but using the IMR 4831 data above.. I'd recommend starting at 40 grains and work up to a max charge of 42.5 grains...a mag primer wouldn't be needed...
keep a charge at 40 grains for IMR 4831 or H 4831SC, for a 140... then you will stay out of danger and trouble...
If you need more velocity for some reason, in a 6.5, then consider another cartridge...
trying to turn a 6.5 Creedmoor into a 6.5/06 or a 264 Win Mag, is going to get you hurt or worse... keep your life insurance policy paid up for the wife.... she might need it...[/quot
H4831SC works excellent in my 6.5X 55 Tikka.I use 143ELDx with that powder for sub 1" groups at 200 yards.My Son killed two Mule deer with that at 350 yardsDRT and 225 yards DRT.Some good stuff for sure.
Its all right to be white!! Stupidity left unattended will run rampant Don't argue with stupid people, They will drag you down to their level and then win by experience
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We once again prove that there are two kinds of people in the world, those who go to boat ramps to scoff and jeer, and those who go to help others learn. There's only so much one can do and you reach a point at which you throw your hands up and shake your head at the boat lunch.
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I was at the range today with my Howa 1500 6.5 CM , a few times the bolt got stuck and it took many attempts to get it free. is there an easy way of doing this and what is causing it ? thanks in advance P. I just noticed this thread, and will report that I had the same thing happen with a new Howa 1500 6.5 Creedmoor and Hornady Match ammo. First round fired I had to pound the bolt open. I've fired two boxes of factory ammo and the bolt is still sticky. And, yes, I know how to prep a new rifle. Thorough cleaning and greased the lugs and camming surfaces. The rifle was checked by my gunsmith who bore scoped it and said the chamber, etc. looked good. I'm not sure what to make of it, but it's interesting that another shooter had a similar experience. Edited to add: Nothing looks unusual with the fired brass, no flat primers, etc. Paul
Last edited by Paul39; 12/04/17.
Stupidity has its way, while its cousin, evil, runs rampant.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I was at the range today with my Howa 1500 6.5 CM , a few times the bolt got stuck and it took many attempts to get it free. is there an easy way of doing this and what is causing it ? thanks in advance P. I just noticed this thread, and will report that I had the same thing happen with a new Howa 1500 6.5 Creedmoor and Hornady Match ammo. First round fired I had to pound the bolt open. I've fired two boxes of factory ammo and the bolt is still sticky. And, yes, I know how to prep a new rifle. Thorough cleaning and greased the lugs and camming surfaces. The rifle was checked by my gunsmith who bore scoped it and said the chamber, etc. looked good. I'm not sure what to make of it, but it's interesting that another shooter had a similar experience. Paul The other shooter was using a heavy overload. In your case, assuming the factory ammo is OK, I'll ask does the hole in the bolt face for the plunger ejector have a sharp edge?
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[quote=persiandog] I just noticed this thread, and will report that I had the same thing happen with a new Howa 1500 6.5 Creedmoor and Hornady Match ammo. First round fired I had to pound the bolt open. I've fired two boxes of factory ammo and the bolt is still sticky. And, yes, I know how to prep a new rifle. Thorough cleaning and greased the lugs and camming surfaces. The rifle was checked by my gunsmith who bore scoped it and said the chamber, etc. looked good. I'm not sure what to make of it, but it's interesting that another shooter had a similar experience. Edited to add: Nothing looks unusual with the fired brass, no flat primers, etc. Paul I checked the brass and all looked ok , I do agree mine was overloaded but I expected to see some expansion on the brass. the last time it got stock , I couldn't force it to open. someone at range tried to use a rubber mallet and didn't work. took the gun home and after many gentle tries got it open. but everything look good !
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Looks OK. Nothing about the bolt face seems out of the ordinary.
I've used two different lots and types of Hornady ammo. Haven't had one stick hard since the first round, but the bolt is very stiff, especially on the rear pull to extract. Lift isn't too bad.
Stupidity has its way, while its cousin, evil, runs rampant.
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