Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Gun Safes?

Clarkm I would consider trying an epoxy coating and then adding some light insulation and plywood or sheetrock over this. An airspace would help too. Best to consult with a structural Engineer as it is critical where the vapor barrier goes so it doesn't create worse problems. An exhaust fan could help too, some can bet set to run automatically when humidity increases which would also include the dew point in your case. These are used in green houses so should be adaptable to interior use.

Good advice I am getting the largest safe that will fit in the space and hope that when it get's hard to find something I quit adding more too it. Not likely though.

I have a top end Canon, that I am very pleased with.

I have a Liberty Safe as big as I could get in the house. It is bolted to the floor and is in a room that does not have direct access to the out side which will give a thief extra problems.

While you are shopping for a safe make sure you check out Fort Knox , built in Utah like the Liberty's but a bit better quality IMO

I have a Fort Knox that I'm really happy with it was a $4500 model that I picked up used on Craigslist for $800! That was a steal of a deal even used IMO but if you shop around CL, Armslist, etc you'll find them for sale all the time and get more safe for the dollar.

One thing that sticks with me regarding discussions of safe's is a post I read here by an insurance investigator. He posted that he'd investigated 50+ fire incidents and 50+ theft incidents. Said he never saw a safe get broken into and the guns taken. Said he never saw one go through a fire without a total loss of the firearms. FWIW...

When I moved, I left a good safe behind - the moving costs were just not worth it. I bought 2 new safes at Tractor Supply - they are 33 gun Winchester entry-level safes with minimum fire and burglary resistance. IO figured that since I have insurance and good public services (fire and police), I didn't need a high-level safe. They were on sale for $450 each plus $200 for delivery. This was 2 years ago, so models and prices change.

They cover my needs, kinda like an inexpensive car that gets you there just like a $100,000 Mercedes.

Here's a website: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/c...ubCategory-_-Gun_SafesGun_Safes_Cabinets

most gun safes only have fireproof drywall in them ,some have double layers. most are only good for 1200-1300deg for 45min. paper chars at 450deg,scopes would all be ruined due to rubber 0-rings melting. sergant & Greenleaf dial locks are better than most other brands. I have a American security in my house and a liberty in my shop. my liberty survived a fire.it still has original carpet in it .smoke smell was fairly strong for a few years after the fire. it didn't hardly hurt the dial lock,still works fine.

i'm a remodeling contractor and sometimes get payed in large sums of cash so I bought my home safe for that use . yes ,I did claim it on my taxes.

Sold Fort Knox safes for a living for a few years, they are a quality safe. Also Liberty safes have a good reputation. Advice I would give, and as others have said, go bigger than you think you need.Also, make sure to bolt them to the floor, preferably concrete.

I bought Cannon from TSC years ago, good fire protection and about 20x30.

I needed more space and bought the larger Cannon from TSC and wished to hell I had just bought a second 20x30.

The larger safe is a PIA to move and to fit in a room with compromising other stuff.

Just something to think about.

I see insurance mentioned in the above posts several times, but keep in mind that most home owner's insurance has very limited coverage on firearms. You usually have to purchase additional insurance for firearm coverage. Most HO's policies will pay 1-2k at most twds firearms.

Where is the best place to purchase firearm insurance??

Check out ,Lockton Affinity through NRA, seems fair priced.

A locksmith told me not to get the electronic lock on my Browning, so I didn't, but what kind of issues are guys seeing with them? The wife's place up north has a concrete vault with a very big door built right into the basement wall and that has an electric lock, but all I've ever done is replaced the battery. Those safes are sure heavy though and I don't think my basement stairs would take much more than my little Browning. Even then I needed to tie it off to the truck and back it down slowly. How do guys move those big ones?

Thanks all. I am leaning towards an entry level safe and will probably get multiple smaller ones on the theory that it would delay a serious attempt to break into them plus transport and the location they will be used in. Hard to find entry level safes with mechanical locks but Liberty does let you customize them so may go that route.

Are moly bolts set in epoxy on a concrete floor sufficient for anchorage?