Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Campfire builders, roof question

I have a drawing that will show a simple to build truss but don't know how to post it. Since I see you are in N. MI you may want to consider using a 6/12 pitch rather than 4/12 for a better snow load factor. A 6/12 pitch would give you a 3/12 vaulted inside pitch using vaulted, engineered trusses. Also this would allow you some space for insulation. Something to consider? Of course this would cost more $.

We put up our deer camp in the Western UP over 20 years ago.20 foot span,6/12 pitch,2x8 rafters 16 inch center with a 16 foot collar tie every 4 feet,.2x8 ridge.Still straight no sagging even with the heavy
snow loads up there.We didn't have to meet any insulation requirements though.

You need to look up "Diaphragm" in the dictionary.

If your floor plan allows it, use trusses on part the structure and rafters over the living room. Double or triple the last truss and use a ridge beam and no collar ties for the rafter area. Trusses over the kitchen/bedroom area will be an easier build.

What design factor(s) resulted in your selection of a 4/12 pitch?

a four is real easy to walk.......

Yea, lol.

Lots of good ideas here.

Yes, I am very familiar with building, built the house we live in now in 2005, plenty of smaller barns, sheds and a smaller 20x24 log camp since.

I know trusses would be the "easiest" and I have plenty of free help. This is a rustic hunting cabin, I am trying to build an "old" new cabin if that makes sense. Low roof line is the reason for the 4/12. I have always enjoyed the open look of a vaulted ceiling in a camp.

I am not in a hurry, the floor joists, rim board, sub-floor, interior and exterior walls are all coming from lumber we cut and milled from the property. I need to start cutting cedar and white pine for the interior T&G. The live edge cedar siding will be last. The ash flooring is from behind our current house.

Now, that being said, I don't profess to know everything about building and my rafter construction is limited to sheds and the smaller camp which was 12/12. I am not planning to use an engineered beam rather, just a 2x12 as to my knowledge these are really not a structural component in rafter construction but I could be wrong. Hence the post.

Well, you are right about the knowledge part.....grin. If a ridge is not reallystructural, use a 1x12 to save money. Or no ridge at all.

You should plan on an engineered beam if you're worried about spread, because it IS a structural component in cut roof construction for that very reason.

From the minimal info I can find it looks like the International Building Code does not require a beam for anything over 3/12 which then yes, it is a structural component.
I have to use a Nominal minimum 1" for the ridge board is why I need a 2x12.

So, that's why I posed the question, an engineered beam would be ideal but will increase cost. So, what can I do to reduce cost and not have the building fall down.....

More wall ties in the form of full cedar logs? They could serve a dual purpose and support lighting too? That is what we did in the other building but only one.

I built my log cabin. I used 4x10 rafters on a 12:12 pitch. My collar ties are 3x6, I made them with my chain saw from extra logs.
As you are aware, the force of the rafters is down, and out. As you are aware, without collar ties the roof would collapse, and the center of the roof would be laying in the middle of the floor.

And I have heard of that happening, a rookie log builder built a roof like mine but skipped the collar ties, went home, came back the next day and his roof had collapsed. Walls collapsed outward as well.

Seeing how critical the collar ties are I like to get them as low as possible. These are below the midpoint of the rafter.

...and do 9' walls....

We actually don't see a lot of snow on the east side.

And definitely not 9' walls.....studs are already cut.

What size screws did you use when attaching the collar ties?

Not sure how you would get an R39 rating using 2x12 rafters.You couldn't do it using fiberglass,there needs to be an air space between the insulation and roof deck for ventilation.If you spray foamed that is usually pretty expensive.
Be cheaper and easier to just use trusses.4/12 pitch 24 foot residential truss at Menards is $82

JFC......The pitch DOES NOT determine loads. Where do you guys get this chit?

We lernt snow slides off a 6 from a fella' at Home Depot.

Can't see any need for collar ties above what looks like a loft floor.

HAHAHA......So true... But seriously, if the snow slid off, then it's not a load, right?

Well Duh! Those guys at HD can set you up with snow-lube if you ferget' your engineerin.