Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Tikka T3 Modifications

I am looking at changing my factory T3X around a bit and it would be cool to see some examples of semi-custom Tikkas. I work a store that sells a ton of them and I just want to make mine different.
So far I’ve fluted the bolt and switched the handle out. I’m going to keep and paint the stock to keep things light and I’m thinking about Cerakoting the metal and chopping and threading the barrel.
Anyway, show off your Tikkas and tell us what you did. I need a Tikka photo fix while I’m working on mine.

Mine is a LH 223 that has been trimmed to 19.5 inches and threaded for suppressor, bolt spiral fluted and barrel fluted. I'm also looking at cerakote (sniper gray is frontrunner at the moment) and aftermarket bolt knob.
Sorry, no pics.
Discovered last weekend that there is a 4inch vertical difference in POI with suppressor on vs suppressor off.

Interesting, I wonder what the speed difference is. Have you compared velocity through a chronograph?

I’m thinking about a matte or flat black Cerakote, but not the chalk black...not sure which to go with exactly.

4” at what range?

All of my rifles show a lower POI with the can attached, it’s almost always about 1.5” to 2” at 100 yds.

It has nothing to do with velocity, it has to do with hanging a 12oz weight on the end of the barrel.

Dogshooter,

I have been shopping for suppressors. Have you seen this outfits' OTB suppresor? https://www.ballistasuppressors.com/suppressors

They claim less shift of the POI. I also like the idea less length added to the barrel. What is your opinion of the OTB designs?

I've never personally used, or seen in use, an OTB suppressor.

I'll take the added 7"-9" of correct thread suppressor for the added versatility. I'm not sure how an OTB would work on multiple rifles.

Also, the POI shift is always consistent with each rifle. I just make a note on each gun what the POI shift is, then simply add that to all the dope.

I am looking at the SliencerCo Harvester 300 it’s 8.8 in and 11 oz. Anybody using that one?

I use a harvester a lot, they're great cans.... not as effective as my SAS Arbiter... but not much it.

POI shift with the Harvester is .3 Mils on the CTR, and .5 Mils on the RARs.

How much do you need to take off a T3x sporter or lite barrel to thread for suppressor? I use Ultra 7 with their CB mount.

Chopped to 20" the Tikka Lites thread 1/2×28 just fine. There's a couple different 1/2×28 - 5/8×24 adapters available, including one you can purchase here in the classifieds for under $40 (They're great, I have two of them)... I think that's a better way to go than threading 9/16×24, or a press-fit "shoulder", or any of the other options.

Not sure what I'd do if my cans weren't direct thread...

Ok dogshooter I’ll bite. Could you explain why you wouldn’t direct thread? Is it just to have flexibility to change can and guns around?

I DO direct thread.... 5/8x24 on both my cans. Yes, it’s for versatility. I can shoot a .30 cal can on everything. Also, if you go TOMB, you have to A. Buy a brake for every rifle you want to shoot the can on. B. Have to shoot a brake when not running the can..... both of those options suck as far as I’m concerned.

When I run them on rifles threaded 1/2x28, I simply run an adapter.

I’d never by a TOMB suppressor, only direct thread for me.

I’d also never thread 9/16x24.... as it’s just an odd size. I’ve had a couple .30 cal rifles threaded 1/2x28, and never had an issue.

Stippled the "checkering" with a soldering iron (T3). That's about it.

Assuming I actually had a stainless T3X Superlite, I'd put a big honkin scope on it, add a fancy British racing green paint job and a Volvo sticker.

Or

Thanks for the explanation I am just starting to learn about these cans and attachment types.

YoDave trigger spring. Aics footprint bottom metal. Noveske flush cups. Spray paint. Reliable, properly installed optic.