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I think a question I asked earlier got lost. How does one field strip a Mauser bolt that is equipped with a Wisner style two position safety like the one on Ole Ugly?
Thanks,
Gun Doc Twist the cocking piece counter-clockwise and unscrew it out of the bolt body. You need a suitable surface edge or some other means of pulling the cocking piece back to clear the cocking cam notch (is there a better term? Can't think of one) on each twist, but it's not hard to do.
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[quote=AnsonRogers]JB, I thought Marlin or some other gun manufacturer used to have a backward safety.
Yes some had that backward setup. Very dangerous IMHO. Especially so with youngsters learning to shoot. In the heat of the moment we do what we practice and all theeir CF rifles had push to fire safeties.
Their older bolt action .22's did for sure. They changed it on the newer ones, I believe with the 800 series. Simply a different lever. You can buy the lever from Numrich and likely several other places.
I have changed out the six older oneswe own to the newer safety. I also tapped the markings out and restamped them to the newer format.
Well worth doing.
Gary
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I think a question I asked earlier got lost. How does one field strip a Mauser bolt that is equipped with a Wisner style two position safety like the one on Ole Ugly?
Thanks,
Gun Doc Twist the cocking piece counter-clockwise and unscrew it out of the bolt body. You need a suitable surface edge or some other means of pulling the cocking piece back to clear the cocking cam notch (is there a better term? Can't think of one) on each twist, but it's not hard to do. Thank you. I just tried it. I don't think I agree with the "not hard to do" part, but perhaps I just need to learn a few tricks or get some practice. Also, you do have to depress the latch that prevents the cocking piece (edit: shroud) from turning, but I noticed that right away. I assume on reassembly, you just have to live with it dropping hard into the "cocking cam notch" unless you can manage to keep the cocking piece under control?
Last edited by GunDoc7; 08/12/18.
Clinging to guns & religion since 1959
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When I assembled Ole Ugly I was living in a cabin my wife and I had built with no electricity so I built everything with hand tools. I didn't know anything about the recoil of the 458, except that it ruined a lot of stocks, so I did everything I could think of to make sure it never happened . I added crossbolts to the Brown Pred stock, bedded it with Devcon liquid steel mixed with steel shavings from the floor of a machine shop, and since the first few MK X . 458 bbl actions did not have extra recoil lugs I sawed out a piece of 1/4" steel plate to be somewhat like the recoil lug on a Rem 700 and drilled a hole in it and slid it over the barrel, which I had wrapped with Emory paper, twisted it around until it was tapered like the barrel, drilled a hole through it that just barely touched the barrel, and pinned it in place.
I knew the Weaver scope rings were tough as we used them to mount a scope on an M-2 .50 cal while I was in Vietnam, so used them.
40 years and a hell lot of miles, bears, moose and caribou later, the rifle is still going strong ! I still have hopes of taking it after Cape buffalo Thank you for the reply and the "back story". I bought a new Zastava in 2013 in 458 Win Mag - I believe that brand is some sort of successor to the Mark X. FYI, it did not have a barrel recoil lug either, in a wood stock with just the military type cross bolt, so I have been hesitant to let it rip with full house loads - just been messing with cast and 400 grain Speers at mid 45-70 levels. We are not really bothered much by dangerous game here in the Canadian prairies; at least nothing a good 180 grain 30-06 can't handle comfortably. FWIW, I agree wholeheartedly regarding Weaver rings - I have them on at least half of my rifles, including a Husqvarna 640 in 9.3x62 with a M8-3x scope. That rifle's comb is ideal for the iron sights, therefore really too low for scope use, but straight tube scope and low rings make the best of the set-up.
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To GunDoc7 - not sure where I first saw it, but you can tie a loop out of bootlace or similar that slips over your wrist and engages on the sear face of the striker - pull back and take the main spring compression with that loop - leaves your fingers free to grasp the shroud and depress the shroud lock, then rotate the bolt body with the other hand. Something similar shown in manual of arms for disassembly of Model of 1917 Enfield (aka P17) bolt. Many commercial mausers have a small hole drilled sideways through the striker - pulling the striker back allows a pin to be inserted (straightened paper clip, finishing nail) that holds the striker back across the rear of the shroud and allows the bolt to be disassembled.
Last edited by Potashminer; 08/12/18.
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For reassembly, I have always been able to twist the assembly back into the bolt body without the use of any aids other than a rag or something to assist grip.
Don't be the darkness.
America will perish while those who should be standing guard are satisfying their lusts.
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I also dislike the wing safeties on FN Mauser shrouds, as they can be somewhat difficult to put off safe because of the scope’s ocular housing. My two rifles with FN actions both wear Wisner safeties and I like this arrangement much better. Even though I’m a fan of the Model 70, I dislike the three position safety and much prefer a two-position safety like the Wisner. As others have said here, the old Enfield safety beats them all.
Last edited by GF1; 08/14/18.
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As long as this thread has morphed to safeties, I was wondering about folks opinion on this -
A safety like a Model 70 but positioned so it swings horizontally behind the cocking piece, almost exactly like an original Model 98 flag safety except in the horizontal plane. It wouldn't have to swing through 180 degrees, the M70 swings through just a tad more than 90. The handle would be 45 degrees to the right on full safe, straight back on middle position and 45 degrees left when off safe. Being low it would be as easily accessible under any scope bell as a tang safety, and like the 98 the thumb would sweep it off as it naturally grasped the pistol grip.
The current Model 70 safety, while nice in function, is on the wrong side and requires a somewhat awkward movement to push it off safe, then the thumb has to reacquire the grip unless one shoots "thumb high in the eye'" like a target shooter.
Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery.
Hit the target, all else is twaddle!
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I also think that the safety on most rifles is on the wrong side for right handed shooters. And I am sure people who are used to pulling back a hammer to cock a gun feel that rearward to fire is more intuitive.
But with virtually every safety now being built on the right side and pushed forward to fire it would be confusing to change things
Phil Shoemaker Alaska Master Guide, Alaska Hunter Ed Instructor FAA Master pilot www.grizzlyskinsofalaska.comAnyone who claims the 30-06 is not effective has either not used one, or else is unwittingly commenting on their marksmanship.
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Jim this my opinion only. You asked what others thot.
The horizontal swing safety would be quite different and requiring attitude adjustment OR getting used to it.
IMO being so different it would take time to be accepted.
Now the Win 70 safety is only slightly different. You are still pushing the safety from rear to forward.
For right handed hunters (the majority) being on the left side the thumb would naturally touch the safety BUT pushing it forward would require
twisting or torqing the wrist or hand.
As to 458s comment, cocking only requies thumb up and back down.
I prefer hammer exrensions to be on the Left side of the hammer. That’s simpler than trying to push
a safety forward on the Left side.
That’s my opinion and not trying to be contrarian.
Jerry
jwall- *** 3100 guy***
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The model 70 side safety was not always a push forward on the right operation. The pre-war Model 70 safety was centered in the rear. I tried to post a photo but could not figure out how to post it (I will work on that later.) This is also called at times the "flag" safety. This is on safe when pushed forward on the left and you pull it back to mid center to fire. When a scope has been mounted low there is very little room for this but it can, and has, been done. Thus, this original model 70 was pulled toward the rear to take off safe and fire. First post war safety had a clam shell, small, extension on the right and pushed forward. Later is had the wider lever we see so often. The original pre-war safety is also a 2 position safety. Flag straight back can fire, flag 90 degrees out to the left and both bolt and striker were locked. Only post war model 70's were 3 position safeties.
Last edited by sierraHunter; 08/15/18.
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Not a real member - just an ordinary guy who appreciates being able to hang around and say something once in awhile.
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Low weaver rings with a short, compact, straight tube scope; it doesn't get any more rugged and foolproof. With the front of the tube not protruding much past the front ring, there is no chance of getting branches stuck under the scope when pushing through the alders. I have a front sight and no rear sight on my 35 Whelen. I can hit a six inch circle easily at fifty yard with just the front sight. The comb height on the stock locates my eye in the right place. GD
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I like "other brands" that have tang safeties. Be Well, RZ.
Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy. Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. Winston Churchill.
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Also, I'm building a 9.3 x 62 from an old J.C. Higgins Model 50 FN Belgian Mauser action. I'm trying to decide on a safety. I know I want a side swing of one type or another. So, your answer is more than just academic to me.
Here's a couple pics of a Dakota 3 position safety on a JC Higgins M-50 showing both the safe and fire positions of the safety. While I do like the safety, I would have liked to see the safe position more rearward and line up closer to the bore axis than how it sticks out ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/P08EPpLl.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/yhSjfNXl.jpg) Not sure if I'm going to use this safety or not. ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/BLMYHtOl.jpg) The factory safety on another M-50 I have here awaiting it's trip to the blacksmith. It's a very good safety as is and well designed. ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/5WpBMTQl.jpg)
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NOW I get it. Took me a few, I'm slow. Good one, Rex
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I was rather proud of it. Thanks for recognizing it.
Not a real member - just an ordinary guy who appreciates being able to hang around and say something once in awhile.
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Here's a couple pics of a Dakota 3 position safety on a JC Higgins M-50 showing both the safe and fire positions of the safety. While I do like the safety, I would have liked to see the safe position more rearward and line up closer to the bore axis than how it sticks out
I just had my first one installed on one of my M50s and have the identical (minor) complaint. One the one hand, it looks easier to quickly move to FIRE than the competing M70 styles. One the other, looks a little easier to catch on something accidently bump to FIRE. Fortunately when my rifle is slung it's over my right shoulder 99% of the time, lessening the chances of the latter. That's also one of the things that scares me about the stock JCH M50 safety when slung on my right shoulder - I'm scared it'll rub against my coat or pack straps and bump to FIRE. Hasn't happened, but I try to eliminate potential for problems. Sorry to join the gang of thread hijackers... Rex
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I just had my first one installed on one of my M50s and have the identical (minor) complaint. One the one hand, it looks easier to quickly move to FIRE than the competing M70 styles. One the other, looks a little easier to catch on something accidently bump to FIRE. Fortunately when my rifle is slung it's over my right shoulder 99% of the time, lessening the chances of the latter. That's also one of the things that scares me about the stock JCH M50 safety when slung on my right shoulder - I'm scared it'll rub against my coat or pack straps and bump to FIRE. Hasn't happened, but I try to eliminate potential for problems.
I don't tend to carry my rifles a lot on a sling, esp when deer hunting so I can keep an eye on that safety easier. When I was moose hunting with that rifle this fall, I carried it with an empty chamber and didn't chamber a round and use the safety until I knew there was going to be a shot.
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