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Who runs this scope? How is the glass? Clarity? Low light? What about adjustments? How true does it track? Will be my first scope with turrets so which reticle is easier to do math for dialing ...mil quad or MOA quad?


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Never ran the 3-15 but have used a bunch of the 6x’s and 3-9’s... they have all worked real well for me and I continue using the 6x’s for a lot of my hunting and shooting.


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My buddy has one. I compared it to my LRHS and it was better by a couple minutes at last light believe it or not. The reticle at 6x is also more visible than the LRHS reticle at the same power.

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My son and I each have one. I have used mine for work for the last 4 or 5 years, whenever they came out. The glass is good similar to older night force scopes. The adjustments and return to zero have been excellent, and I dial quite a bit. It has seen at least 100,000 miles in the back seat of the truck, and a lot of hard hunting. Maybe have made 2 or 3 clicks of adjustment in all that time, and not all at once. I run mils, but pick what you like. My only complaint is that the turrets are big, and they turn relatively easily. Sometimes when backpack hunting they can get moved inadvertently. The turrets on the 3x9 are smaller and stiffer, and I like them better. The mil quad reticle is an excellent reticle, you will like it. I would get the scope in ffp as well, especially if you will be shooting at distance alot. Hope that helps.

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I have two of them and they are solid scopes. Adjustments track true, rtz is consistent. Glass is quite good for the price, above 12x it starts to get a little dim in low light but 15x is asking a lot of a 42mm objective.

FFP, mil/mil is MUCH easier to learn and adjust. Forget the "math" part, don't convert anything. Plot all of your dope / wind calls in mils and it's super easy to use.

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Originally Posted by Canazes9
Forget the "math" part, don't convert anything. Plot all of your dope / wind calls in mils and it's super easy to use.

Yes, except, plot your dope in mils OR moa, depending on your scope. The important part is to have a scope whereby the dials match the reticle, meaning either both mil or both moa.

Heck, from this time forward you could refer to your mils as shmeckies or your moas a gerbins. If, according to your scope you missed by 3 shmeckies (or 3 gerbins), then adjust your nobs/turrets 3 shmeckies (or 3 gerbins). Do anything to finally convince yourself you don't need math other than to adjust by the amount necessary to put you on target. That applies whether it is mil, moa, shmeckie or gerbin.


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Originally Posted by TheBigSky
Originally Posted by Canazes9
Forget the "math" part, don't convert anything. Plot all of your dope / wind calls in mils and it's super easy to use.

Yes, except, plot your dope in mils OR moa, depending on your scope. The important part is to have a scope whereby the dials match the reticle, meaning either both mil or both moa.

Heck, from this time forward you could refer to your mils as shmeckies or your moas a gerbins. If, according to your scope you missed by 3 shmeckies (or 3 gerbins), then adjust your nobs/turrets 3 shmeckies (or 3 gerbins). Do anything to finally convince yourself you don't need math other than to adjust by the amount necessary to put you on target. That applies whether it is mil, moa, shmeckie or gerbin.


Base 10 adjustments are always gonna be easier and more straight forward than base 4 adjustments.

Mil/Mil is easier.

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Originally Posted by 280Ackleyrized
Who runs this scope? How is the glass? Clarity? Low light? What about adjustments? How true does it track? Will be my first scope with turrets so which reticle is easier to do math for dialing ...mil quad or MOA quad?


I just hunted this scope on top of a 7/08 for a cow hunt. Scoped up a cow at 427 yards 25 minutes after shooting light started. Overcast with light mist. I had no issues seeing the cow clearly in the 10-12 power range. SWFA have a long history of being overbuilt and beyond durable. This was the main reason I elected to put this scope on a high end custom build where dialing will be needed to point the bullets at things further than just shooting off the Mq reticle.

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Originally Posted by Beaver10
Originally Posted by 280Ackleyrized
Who runs this scope? How is the glass? Clarity? Low light? What about adjustments? How true does it track? Will be my first scope with turrets so which reticle is easier to do math for dialing ...mil quad or MOA quad?


I just hunted this scope on top of a 7/08 for a cow hunt. Scoped up a cow at 427 yards 25 minutes after shooting light started. Overcast with light mist. I had no issues seeing the cow clearly in the 10-12 power range. SWFA have a long history of being overbuilt and beyond durable. This was the main reason I elected to put this scope on a high end custom build where dialing will be needed to point the bullets at things further than just shooting off the Mq reticle.

[Linked Image]


Nice! That isn't by chance a Criterion barrel?


You did not "seen" anything, you "saw" it.
A "creek" has water in it, a "crick" is what you get in your neck.
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Hart 22” tube...


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Good solid choice for the first one! I had one with no complaints, just upgraded to a LRHSi when a good opportunity came along.

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How does it do at early and last light?

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Originally Posted by SDupontJr
How does it do at early and last light?

No issues with seeing early and late. As with many ffp scopes, the reticle is a little thin from 3 to 6 x, but I never shoot below 6x anyway, so I don't mind.

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Originally Posted by Canazes9
Originally Posted by TheBigSky
Originally Posted by Canazes9
Forget the "math" part, don't convert anything. Plot all of your dope / wind calls in mils and it's super easy to use.

Yes, except, plot your dope in mils OR moa, depending on your scope. The important part is to have a scope whereby the dials match the reticle, meaning either both mil or both moa.

Heck, from this time forward you could refer to your mils as shmeckies or your moas a gerbins. If, according to your scope you missed by 3 shmeckies (or 3 gerbins), then adjust your nobs/turrets 3 shmeckies (or 3 gerbins). Do anything to finally convince yourself you don't need math other than to adjust by the amount necessary to put you on target. That applies whether it is mil, moa, shmeckie or gerbin.


Base 10 adjustments are always gonna be easier and more straight forward than base 4 adjustments.

Mil/Mil is easier.

David

David, I agree. It's just that telling someone to "plot all of your dope/wind calls in mils" ignores that he may actually have a scope in MOA. I do however note and acknowledge your paragraph was specifically talking about your mil/mil scope.


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Originally Posted by TheBigSky
Originally Posted by Canazes9
Originally Posted by TheBigSky
Originally Posted by Canazes9
Forget the "math" part, don't convert anything. Plot all of your dope / wind calls in mils and it's super easy to use.

Yes, except, plot your dope in mils OR moa, depending on your scope. The important part is to have a scope whereby the dials match the reticle, meaning either both mil or both moa.

Heck, from this time forward you could refer to your mils as shmeckies or your moas a gerbins. If, according to your scope you missed by 3 shmeckies (or 3 gerbins), then adjust your nobs/turrets 3 shmeckies (or 3 gerbins). Do anything to finally convince yourself you don't need math other than to adjust by the amount necessary to put you on target. That applies whether it is mil, moa, shmeckie or gerbin.


Base 10 adjustments are always gonna be easier and more straight forward than base 4 adjustments.

Mil/Mil is easier.

David

David, I agree. It's just that telling someone to "plot all of your dope/wind calls in mils" ignores that he may actually have a scope in MOA. I do however note and acknowledge your paragraph was specifically talking about your mil/mil scope.


Understood.

I was assuming he hadn't purchased yet and was trying to make a decision based on:

Originally Posted by 280Ackleyrized
Who runs this scope? How is the glass? Clarity? Low light? What about adjustments? How true does it track? Will be my first scope with turrets so which reticle is easier to do math for dialing ...mil quad or MOA quad?


smile

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You are correct. I haven't purchased an optic yet. Still looking. Actual purchase probably won't be made until early summer. I'm still undecided on a rifle. Just doing research


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They work great.


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Got a handful of them. All ffp MOA. Not a great side by side, but way more clear than Vortex PST or HS. Lotsa bang for the buck. Zero Stop shim kits available


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Where can you buy the zero stop shim kits?

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I have bought several shim kits from the below and they work great:



Ordering is easy. We accept PayPal (preferred) and all types of paper money including personal checks and money orders. To order, please use your preferred method and send the appropriate amount to timkulinstudiosaol.com or the physical address below.

Tim Kulin

2790 Wood Valley Court

Woodland Park, CO 80863

When ordering, be sure to include your shipping address. You wouldn't believe how many people forget. Please also note if your scope's turrets are in MOA or milrads. If you don't specify, we will assume mil rad.

We generally ship no later than the next day after receiving your order. Please note that we use the USPS and no tracking information is available.

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