Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Wipeout,

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I agree , but if one is using a bore guide why not apply through it ?

I use these products which are great for copper, not good at all for cooked on carbon

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Inspected with a hawkeye bore scope
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Copper is easy to get out of the barrel, carbon is another issue. It usually takes stiff plastic brushes short stroked back and forth, concentrating on the throat area to get the carbon out. Great bronze bristle brushes used 100 strokes then thrown away help in stubborn carbon removal, but are not the sole answer in and of themselves. Scrubbing with Bore tec Eliminator on a regular basis after every range sesson will ease the pain. As shooting strings extend to 50-60 rounds, carbon gets cooked on hard, with more aggressive cleaning regiment required. JB on patches, JB on plastic or bronze bristle brushes, JB red on patches with a tight fitting jag, then you get to more aggressive compounds sold by Brownell's, Al Oxide and Silicone carbide mixed in pastes.

For guys that shoot PRS, Colony varmint shooting, F class, large over bore cases, a regiment of keeping the carbon out of the barrel is paramount in maintaining accuracy

Few reloaders are on top of keeping the carbon out of their barrels...few. Advanced information is coming to light on a "Heat Index" for various types and brands of powders. The higher the heat index, the hotter the powder burns. This Heat Index has Immediate consequences in how much carbon is cooked on the inside of the barrel surface, how hard it is to get out, and barrel life associated with the Heat Index.

A revolutionary tool has come on the market at a very affordable price, the Lyman Bore scope. This scope costs in the neighborhood of $200. You can capture pictures with it and store the pictures on your computer creating a file of pictures of a particular barrels wear over time. It will become all too obvious that various powders will carbon up a barrel very differently.

After using a bore scope for a while, you will become your own expert on the snake oil that is sold to clean barrels. Cleaning frequency will become a habit based on a particular barrel's need, bore, powder used, amount of powder used, and some bullets will copper foul more than others. Bore diameters will vary from end to end, you will learn where powder fouling creates a carbon ring, where copper accumulates in your particular barrel, and all too obvious will be the throat wear

For the Wipe out fellows, running a few soaked patches of Accelerator, then brushing with a Montana Extreme or Isso plastic brush will help tremendously in the removal of Carbon, then use the Wipe out Patch out. All copper will be gone, but carbon is another issue.

In this thread, you hear of guys like using this and that. You never know their application is a 223 or a 7 stw. You also never know if they examine their bores with a bore scope. Over the years, I have helped some guys at the range that say they clean when their gun start loosing accuracy. The problem with this mind set is that you are now in TROUBLE, removing the very hard cooked on carbon. In many cases, the carbon can not be removed with out extraordinary effort and expense.

I would urge all to get a lyman bore scope that wants to get their barrel clean, otherwise you will be a victim of Marketing gimmicks.

I was disappointed after reading the thread title and opening it up. My head was going in a different direction...

Keith, I simplified my cleaning process a few years ago......

1. Dyna Bore Coat every rifle
2. Kroil for carbon
3. Finish with Wipe Out foam.

If you push the fuel line tight against the chamber it’ll seal at the shoulder. If you’re still worried, flip the rifle upside down in the cradle.

If you love Kroil, you will fall in love with Free All
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Looks like I need to dynacoat my barrels


My brother owns a large tire store and rebuilds a lot of front ends on trucks and cars. Removing rusted bolts is a tough job,Especially OLD rusted on bolts.

Free All is in a class by it's self.

We have tried these penetrating oils. Free All is king.

I have helped 7 guys that had bad carbon build up when they were only using Wipe out foam, over the phone and net. I did not know their cleaning frequency, they had a heck of a time getting the carbon out.

Calibers

22/243
'
22/243 AI(2)

7 mag

20-22/250 AI,

two guys with savage factory barrels, 6.5 creed, and 308

All of these men but one bought a hawkeye bore scope

My doctor was worried about my cholesterol so I switched to margarine. I’ve lost 15# and do I feel great! Even the misses noticed my shrinking waistband. I’d recommend it.

I've used Wipe Out for years and it's great but for copper, it doesn't get it out like Sweets or Eliminator IME. I prefer the Gunslick foaming cleaner. It seems to work just as well and you get much more and an applicator for the same price.

Anybody using one of these..........
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TTQF24F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_py2qDbVPWE29D

I believe Kingston bought one

I generally use the Wipe Out applicator and apply thru the bore guide til it comes out the muzzle with a plastic bottle on the end. Keep rags over the stock to catch any back flow. Might have to switch to the unfired case. I might have some bore plugs around. Might give them a try.

I use Dyna Bore Coat in Prarie dog guns and only clean using Wipeout if accuracy drops off or I feel bad. Typicaly thisnis after 300 rounds or more. Never resorted to scrubbing the bore with a bronze brush to remove carbon. It might be there, but it hasnt hurt accuracy at all in my guns. However, I dont not use ball powders at all.

Gunslicks foam has never worked worth a damn for me. Which is a shame because Wipeout is tough to find locally.

Some time ago I bought one of every brand folks said would work to get all of the copper and carbon out of a barrel. I don't remember them all, but I do remember I had Wipeout and Accelerator in the mix along with the Gunslick (what was using then) along with some M-Pro7, Break-free clp, Hoppe's #9, something Extreme, and a few others.

I picked a rifle out that was starting to have the groups go bad on a known good-shooting (.6-.7" group @ 100) load and looked at the bore through a bore scope. I started with Hoppe's and worked my way through them all. Looking at the barrel after each one was used. Hoppe's did the least to clean out the copper. The 3rd from the last one was the Outers Gunslick and there were still spots of copper. The Wipe-out took most of that out but there was still some spots left. To get ALL of it out, I used some 27% Ammonium Hydrate solution. THAT cleaned it down to the metal. No copper, no carbon.

Only trouble with that was it took 28 shots to get the gun back to grouping the way it did.

I bought one and its works as well as the lyman for 1/4 of the price.

Thanks!